Does anyone have any information/comments/experience with Panaracer Spike V studded tires?

I need studded tires for my commuter but I'm on a pretty tight budget. I found these Panaracer tires for even less than the Nashbar studded tires but I can't find any info on them. This will be my first set of studded tires, and I don't want to spend my limited funds on them if they're garbage.

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/shopmiva/components_tires.html

Thanks in advance for your time and attention.

I have had good experiences with Panaracer summer tires.

For winter, I commute on Nokian 106 stud tires.
They handle ice very well.
However, we have had so much snow this year I plan to upgrade to the Nokian 240 stud tires.

Nokians cost a lot of money but they last most people four winters.
My Innovas threw studs and wore out the remaining studs in one year.

For pictures and discussion of Nokians:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp

Thanks for the input, Ken.

I was hoping to hear that these cheap Panaracer's are the greatest thing ever, but I doubt that they'll be much better than the Innovas. It looks like I'm back to saving up for a set of Nokians.

I don't know how much life is left on your current set of Nokians, or if you were even planning to part with them, but please keep me in mind if you decide to sell them.

Thanks,
Russ

You're in PA. You probably have a few days of ice and many days of snow. If you're riding in snow, you don't need studs. I'm not sure what you're riding but a 35C cyclocross tires will burn through most of what you'll encounter. If you dump your cash on studs, save them for the icy days, since you don't want your expensive tires getting ruined on bald pavement. Then again, if you wear an 8 ball jacket when you're riding, dude, get some gnarly spikes.

Does anyone have any information/comments/experience with Panaracer Spike V studded tires?

I need studded tires for my commuter but I'm on a pretty tight budget. I found these Panaracer tires for even less than the Nashbar studded tires but I can't find any info on them. This will be my first set of studded tires, and I don't want to spend my limited funds on them if they're garbage.

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/shopmiva/components_tires.html

Thanks in advance for your time and attention.

I installed one of the Spike V's on the rear of a mountain bike Saturday.

Rode it to work Saturday, but didn't get the forecast snow/sleet, and a rainstorm followed by high winds meant I came back via subway.

I found them unexpectedly noisey on dry pavement. I thought the idea for this 108 (i think) stud count tire was to have dry rubber on the road when travelling straight and have the studs dig in under a slight lean when you need the grip such as in a mild slip, but the studs seem to be in contact constantly.

Anyone else have further info on this tire.

I haven't installed the front studded tire yet, but an eminant sidewall failure forced me to change the rear a little early, so I did so now rather than change a second time next month.

I just bought a pair of these: http://www.biketiresdirect.com/productdetail.asp?p=IKTWS&buttonAction=ci_IKTWS

they are the cheapest studded tire I could find. I've ridden them twice now on ice and snow and haven't fallen yet. they seem to hook up pretty well.

After ten miles of pavement riding with neither snow nor ice, I've had two studs fall out of the rear tire.
They were adjacent studs on the left side-not sure if I hit something or cornered hard.

At that rate, they aren't going to be studded very long.

I just bought a pair of these: http://www.biketiresdirect.com/productdetail.asp?p=IKTWS&buttonAction=ci_IKTWS

they are the cheapest studded tire I could find. I've ridden them twice now on ice and snow and haven't fallen yet. they seem to hook up pretty well.

Looks your Innova has the pair of studs 4-8 mm closer together than the Spike V, so I'd expect more contact. As best i remember, I think the price was close.

If you dump your cash on studs, save them for the icy days, since you don't want your expensive tires getting ruined on bald pavement.With good studded tyres such as Nokians, you will wear yourself out riding on dry pavement before the studs go. Obviously they're not designed to be ridden in summer conditions, but the studs will not suddenly disintegrate or anything. Your first concerns on pavement will be rolling resistance and noise (though some people seem to like the sound they make on dry conditions). There will be more wear and tear, but high quality (carbide) studs take it very well. Cheap studs do not.

--J

No, No, No, please no...

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=364157

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=369183

At least get youself some screws and duct tape and prepare to restud them yourself because these tires are garbage.

No, No, No, please no...

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=364157

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=369183

At least get youself some screws and duct tape and prepare to restud them yourself because these tires are garbage.

Could you be more explicit on your tape repair? Are you suggesting wrapping the replacement studs in tape before inserting into the stud holes to keep the studs in? If so, is it best to use the adhesive side out, in, or fold the tape over with either both adhesives sides out or in?
Are you suggesting we pull the original studs out before they fall out and make this repair or only after the studs have fallen out?

What type of screw were you advocating? Should these be sized with the hole? What type head?

With good studded tyres such as Nokians, you will wear yourself out riding on dry pavement before the studs go. Obviously they're not designed to be ridden in summer conditions, but the studs will not suddenly disintegrate or anything. Your first concerns on pavement will be rolling resistance and noise (though some people seem to like the sound they make on dry conditions). There will be more wear and tear, but high quality (carbide) studs take it very well. Cheap studs do not.

--J

What is it Nokian does differently regarding stud retention that Panaracer omits?
Are they putting an adhesive in the stud holes or using a friction surface on the studs and or stud holes?
Does any of Nokian's approach lend itself to retrofit of the modified Spike V tires?

Aside from Brian's tape and screw repair, what other approaches work well in retrofit repair of these tires?

Might glueing these or replacement studs in with rtv silicone or rubber cement keep them in?

I see how carbide material sutds would wear better but am not following why they would have a retention benefit. Could you elaborate?

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-364157.html
They don't look too good to me, i'd avoid them.

I don't think its worth buying any studded tire unless they're sporting carbide, otherwise the tires simply won't last and you'll end up paying much more over time, and dealing with much more frustration. Personally, I would suggest simply going for one of the less expensive Schwalbe's or Nokians if you're looking to save, thats probably the best way to *actually* save.

I have had good experiences with Panaracer summer tires.

For winter, I commute on Nokian 106 stud tires.
They handle ice very well.
However, we have had so much snow this year I plan to upgrade to the Nokian 240 stud tires.

Nokians cost a lot of money but they last most people four winters.
My Innovas threw studs and wore out the remaining studs in one year.

For pictures and discussion of Nokians:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp

700c x 40 W240, Cost: $ 74.00 each. In Stock.

$74.00 EACH!!!!!!!! Holy Cow!!!

I make my own;) Not as cool but they work for a fraction of that price:) I may go out and make some more for my BMX this year:) if i do I'll post up some pics.

I just looked at some of them studded tires for sale and wow there pretty cool but I only go out and ride once or twice a day out in the snow so what I do works for me...other peaple that are really into it should look into those tires there really neat:) ...and again wow cool stuff.

What is it Nokian does differently regarding stud retention that Panaracer omits? [...] I see how carbide material sutds would wear better but am not following why they would have a retention benefit. Could you elaborate?I meant the wear and tear. I have not ridden Panaracers myself, so I don't know how well their studs stay put. But it cannot be much better than the Nokian W106s I'm running now - I have maybe 1000 kms on them, no lost studs last time I bothered to check.

I am aware that by posting this I have jinxed myself and will lose 40+ studs on my 15 km commute in a couple of hours :).

--J

I have used the Spike V's for the past couple of years in the winter. Lost around 6-8 studs per tire. They are noisy on dry pavement and the bike steers like a tank with them on. I do not think they are a great tire but for the couple times a year that studded tires are really needed they have gotten me from point A to point B. I commute 12 miles to work so they do have quite a bit of milage- I guess that's worth something. The Nokians are a better tire by far but for what I paid for the Spike V's I can't complain.

Could you be more explicit on your tape repair? Are you suggesting wrapping the replacement studs in tape before inserting into the stud holes to keep the studs in? If so, is it best to use the adhesive side out, in, or fold the tape over with either both adhesives sides out or in?
Are you suggesting we pull the original studs out before they fall out and make this repair or only after the studs have fallen out?

What type of screw were you advocating? Should these be sized with the hole? What type head?

I tried to "repair" one tire by pre-drilling all 156 stud holes and then replacing them with pan head (rounded) screw driven from the inside out. I then taped over the heads with three layers of duct tape. My prototype tire lasted about 4 good MTB rides before one of the heads wore through the tape and caused a flat. Mid ride I threw on a light weight XC tire. The wieght difference was unbelieveable and more than made up for the added traction.

Now it's already January and I'm realizing that for me studs don't seem to be necessary. I would have been better off with a fat (2.3" or 2.5") MTB tire for the occasional off road snow ride. On my commuter I've only been in standing snow once so far this year. I'm perfectly happy with an old MTB tire on the front and a moderately treaded 1.5" tire on the back.