Winter Cycling - can you buy a winter bike?

i'd really not like to build a winter bike. first off, it's slightly above my skillset to build a bike from the ground up. I could probably do it, but I don't know that I'd trust it 100% Next, ordering all the parts, then asking the LBS to do it feels like a sham and I don't like to have the LBS put on parts they didn't sell me. I felt bad taking my 10 year old huffy to the LBS for new break pads and I didn't even live in Cincy for 10 years ago, and the LBS I got the thing at closed years ago.

What I really want is a mtn bike flat bar and geometry (road style drop bars and hunched over position aren't stable on ice) with no suspension, disc brakes or coaster brake if possible (not likely in an adult bike), and maybe a small amount of gears (3-6) because Cincinnati hills are like walls - mostly short but very steep. Does anyone make such a beast? Also, would this be a decent bike for ice, salt, hills, etc?

It is pretty easy to convert a bike into one that is suitable to ride in winter, even buying a mountain bike and doing a few mods will work. Surly makes a frame called the Pugsley that can handle even the harshest winter, but you would still have to build it up. I would just go to a LBS and they can get you just what you need.

i'd really not like to build a winter bike. first off, it's slightly above my skillset to build a bike from the ground up. I could probably do it, but I don't know that I'd trust it 100% Next, ordering all the parts, then asking the LBS to do it feels like a sham and I don't like to have the LBS put on parts they didn't sell me. I felt bad taking my 10 year old huffy to the LBS for new break pads and I didn't even live in Cincy for 10 years ago, and the LBS I got the thing at closed years ago.

What I really want is a mtn bike flat bar and geometry (road style drop bars and hunched over position aren't stable on ice) with no suspension, disc brakes or coaster brake if possible (not likely in an adult bike), and maybe a small amount of gears (3-6) because Cincinnati hills are like walls - mostly short but very steep. Does anyone make such a beast? Also, would this be a decent bike for ice, salt, hills, etc?

Welcome to my nightmare. I sold my winter beater, figuring on putting together the ultimate bad weather commuter. Building my perfect bike from scratch (Karate Monkey or Pugsly) with everything I wanted is easier said than done and would probably cost me $1600 or so...way more than I want to spend on a bike that's gonna get abused by weather. Off-the-shelf options I have looked at include:

Raleigh Rt 24 - would need the gearing changed, including front and rear derailleurs, fenders & rack added, and I am not sure about the clearance for wider tires. About $600 I think.

Trek 7300FX Disk - I would probably just have to add fenders, rack. Probably the most cost effective for what you are looking for, fair tires, fair gearing, but my LBS doesn't carry them and I am fiercely loyal to those guys - they take good care of me.

Burley Runabout 7 or 27 - I would have to choose the 27 because I was advised that the internal 7 speed hub on the 7 would not hold up to a 200+lb strong rider like me, if you ain't a Clydesdale, it might work for you. Both are a bit over $1k I think.

I was considering building a bike because I would rather not have a triple and a 9speed cassette and associated derailleurs for riding in the snow...but I have hills on my commuting route and really don't think a single speed is going to do the job and keep my old knees intact. :( But since the internal geared hubs are out for me, I guess might go with a single chainring, loose the FD and live with an 8 speed rear.

sadly, i will be a clydesdale for a while. I'm working on that, but to do it right takes time. Besides, for snow and ice, I want something that can handle being crashed a lot. I've seen a few bikes that are close, but never quite what I want. Really a cheap bike with a few gears, no suspension (i loathe it), and disc brakes would be great. The problem is it's hard to find a cheap bike with no suspension anymore that isn't a hybrid, and if you want disc brakes, then it's right out. It seems like you can get either cheap with disc but with front suspension, or no suspension and disc but not cheap.

If I had to buy a winter bike today, I think I would go with a Van Dessel Super Fly. It's got a shimano nexus 7 hub, front disc brake, rear roller brake. I think they are out of production, but this web site is still listing them for about $800:
http://www.thstore.com/thstore/ProductInfo2.asp?ID=H-VDC-FLY&GroupID=243

Put studded tires on that thing and nothing will stop you.

The downsides: I'm not crazy about the suspension fork and seatpost, and the 700 C wheels are harder to get studs for than 26".

I bought a used steel mountain bike from a co-worker. It was a high-end bike in its day, all XT components, but with a rigid fork and a light steel frame. Maybe you can score a deal on a sturdy older bike with good components too. Don't get one that doesn't fit you size-wise, though.

My take on the drivetrain stuff is this: if you're going to have snow/ice issues with the drivetrain, they'll usually be in the rear end. The cassette packing up with ice, being the main one. So if you're resigned to using a rear derailleur anyway, then you might as well have a triple crank in the bargain and benefit from the expanded range of gearing.

All you need is a mountain bike with studded tires. Lots of people get by without the studs if you don't have to ride every day. The studs only help on ice and hard packed snow.

If you have to ride a long way over bumpy ice with footprints in it suspension is GOOD ! in the winter. NO reason to get rid of the front shocks if you have them and a suspension seat post helps on long bumpy rides too.

I agree with 2manybikes about the front suspension. In the wintertime I often wish I had one. I often ride with low pressure just to smooth out the ride.

I think internal geared hub would be better than a RD.
Disk brakes are good, but I've heard that ceramic rims can also be a good solution for brakeing in winter conditions (I don't know much about these ceramic rims though).

I woke up last night. I'm not going to spend a ton on a bad weather bike. I might still try to build the perfect commuter this summer, but for now I just want to ride, so I am going to get a cheapie MTB or Hybrid, mod as needed and just freakin ride. Good points about the suspension in the winter.

Mentioning cheap solutions for winter riding, perhaps a cruiser would be the ticket. They usually come single speed or 3-speed hub and a coaster brake. They have plenty of room for fat studded tires and some even include fenders. You'd probably want different handlebars and seat and it would definately not be a light bike but it should be very reliable and easy to maintain.
It would be a slow bike so I'd only consider it for short commutes or in very bad weather.
Craig

I'm with CBBaron. Get a good cruiser, add lights and studded tires. Trek makes some good ones. You would have fenders, a partially-enclosed chain, possibly a multispeed hub. You would have to pay twice as much for a Breezer or Eurocommuter to get these features. There's no reason to assume it would be any slower than a mountain bike unless there were some really steep hills that you would have to walk it up. Some of these have decent saddles; many have horrible piano-stool things that would have to be replaced.

Paul

I woke up last night. I'm not going to spend a ton on a bad weather bike. I might still try to build the perfect commuter this summer, but for now I just want to ride, so I am going to get a cheapie MTB or Hybrid, mod as needed and just freakin ride. Good points about the suspension in the winter.

From doing lots of long rides on bumpy ice I finally put a suspension seat post on my hard tail. It was just the right thing, the bumps are not huge, but they are consistently bumpier than anything else on earth.
I go a lot longer this way, I can remain seated for 25 miles this way. Without the suspension seat post I could never have gone 5 miles.

Hybrids typically have 700c wheels, you have more wide tire choices with a 26" wheel MTB. The big fat air cushion for bumps and width for traction is a big help. The smaller diameter wheels are a little stronger too.

Mentioning cheap solutions for winter riding, perhaps a cruiser would be the ticket. They usually come single speed or 3-speed hub and a coaster brake. They have plenty of room for fat studded tires and some even include fenders. You'd probably want different handlebars and seat and it would definately not be a light bike but it should be very reliable and easy to maintain.
It would be a slow bike so I'd only consider it for short commutes or in very bad weather.
Craig

You need a low gear for going a long way in deep snow, a single speed with factory gearing would not do it, You also need knobbies. If the cruiser has fenders they will be too close to the tires. To modify the bike is going to bring the price up to a mountain bike that would be better for snow anyway. The front suspension on a MTB is a big help too. A cruiser is not a good choice.

A Pugsley is about the most economical way to go for big snow capability and they're not cheap. The main expense hurdles are the frame/fork, tires and wheels as you can go on the cheap for everything else. A reasonable build will set you back 1600+ which isn't cost effective for most.

Saying that they are sweet bikes and a ton of fun to ride in snow. I've ridden in upward of 8 fresh inches of heavy snow and actually rode 95% of the trail in conditions I wouldn't have made it 500 feet with any other bike. The only other tracks I saw out there were from another bike with the Surly Endomorph 3.7s which I'd assume were on a Pugsley. We've got a few of them running around here as I'm in the same city as QBP/Surly and the trails I usually ride are right out their back door too.

Photo from a snow ride where we had maybe 4 inches on the ground...

You need a low gear for going a long way in deep snow, a single speed with factory gearing would not do it, You also need knobbies. If the cruiser has fenders they will be too close to the tires. To modify the bike is going to bring the price up to a mountain bike that would be better for snow anyway. The front suspension on a MTB is a big help too. A cruiser is not a good choice.
I don't know about the cruisers you have seen but my wifes cruiser has huge fat tires with fenders. The original tires would be decent but a set of studded tires would easily fit under the fenders included.
As for pushing through deep snow a SS cruiser is probably a little highly geared but not bad for riding on roads. Plus most roads in areas with lots of snow are plowed before the snow gets really deep. I'm not saying a cruiser would be a great snow machine, just a cheap solution that would work reasonably well.
Craig

A Pugsley is about the most economical way to go for big snow capability and they're not cheap. The main expense hurdles are the frame/fork, tires and wheels as you can go on the cheap for everything else. A reasonable build will set you back 1600+ which isn't cost effective for most.

Saying that they are sweet bikes and a ton of fun to ride in snow. I've ridden in upward of 8 fresh inches of heavy snow and actually rode 95% of the trail in conditions I wouldn't have made it 500 feet with any other bike. The only other tracks I saw out there were from another bike with the Surly Endomorph 3.7s which I'd assume were on a Pugsley. We've got a few of them running around here as I'm in the same city as QBP/Surly and the trails I usually ride are right out their back door too.

Photo from a snow ride where we had maybe 4 inches on the ground...



I want one. But as you said they ain't cheap. Its hard to justify $1600 when a $200 beater meets most of my needs.
Craig

I started winter cycling on my Columbia back in the early 1960s. Today it would be called a "cruiser", but back then it was the standard bicycle. (If it still were, I think we would have more bike commuters, but that is a different issue). I agree with 2manybikes that it would not have been suitable for plowing through deep snow on trails, However, on roads with less than a few inches of snow, I was amazed to discover it worked better than a rear-drive car without chains. If fenders are properly fitted, the clearance should not be a factor. Just make sure that it is less at the back of the tire than at the front, and it will not clog. The main problem I had was that sliding one of my feet on the slow for stability was more difficult because of the coaster brake. With studded tires, one would not have to slide a foot often. The current generation of cruisers has surprised me. They are light in weight, well-equipped, and sometimes even have multiple gears. I'd consider them better transportation than mountain bikes. After all, mountain bikes began as cruisers modified for off-road riding.

Paul

What I really want is a mtn bike flat bar and geometry (road style drop bars and hunched over position aren't stable on ice) with no suspension, disc brakes or coaster brake if possible (not likely in an adult bike), and maybe a small amount of gears (3-6) because Cincinnati hills are like walls - mostly short but very steep. Does anyone make such a beast? Also, would this be a decent bike for ice, salt, hills, etc?


It sounds dead-on --very low maintenance and weather-proof. The only thing I'd worry about is hills, internal hubs don't have the range of derailleur systems. There seem to be a new wave of "about-town" bikes that fit this description.

I think you're on the right track looking for a whole bike -- the cheapest way to buy bike parts is as part of an assembled bike, so you're always best off buying the bike that comes closest to serving your needs as-is, rather than having to modify it. Retrofitting a bike to take disc brakes and internal hubs could easily cost $500 just for the parts, and there is a wide variety of new bikes at that price point. The only exception is if you have ready access to "donor" bikes (i.e., you work in a bike shop).

And the cheapest way to buy an assembled bike is used.

Ebay! I've been bidding on this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-Cannondale-M700-mountain-bike-custom-touring-build_W0QQitemZ7205219636QQcategoryZ98083QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Last year, I rode my old hardtail as a winter bike and really liked the setup. It had a front shock and a seatpost shock to take some of the pounding (if you ride trails in the winter, expect them to be rough.. snow/ice/frozen footprints). I'd ride it again this year but the bike was stolen and I'm going to replace it with a second full-suspension bike. It was a Cannondale F500.. you can probably find a pretty good used F400/500/600/800 that won't break the bank. The Headshock on an F500 has a sealed boot that will keep water, salt and dirt off the shock.

I don't know about the cruisers you have seen but my wifes cruiser has huge fat tires with fenders. The original tires would be decent but a set of studded tires would easily fit under the fenders included.
As for pushing through deep snow a SS cruiser is probably a little highly geared but not bad for riding on roads. Plus most roads in areas with lots of snow are plowed before the snow gets really deep. I'm not saying a cruiser would be a great snow machine, just a cheap solution that would work reasonably well.
Craig

I agree, on the road with maybe an inch or two of snow the cruiser is a good application. I go in the deep snow because I like it. I could get around on the road pretty well with a cruiser.

Ebay! I've been bidding on this:

That's a very nice looking bike, it would be great with studded tires. :beer:

That's a very nice looking bike, it would be great with studded tires. :beer:

I'm thinking Town & Country's if I win it - I'll use it for a rainy day bike. I might pick up a Raleigh Mohave tomorrow for a snow bike - THAT will get the studs.

as you can see here from your responses, the term "winter bike" encompasses two different extremes
1 - the cummuter type winter ride that doesn't often get into real deep stuff, but gets exposed to a lot of saltl
2 - the offroad trail machine that doesnt see as much salt, but is exposed to much rougher frozen trails
so it depends on what you want to use it for and what compromises you are willing to make. I wouldn't want to put a nice suspension bike or new frame thru the salty crap I spend most of my winter time on, old beaters are perfect for this.. and I wouldn't want to use a built mostly for the road commuter for very rough offroad trails for very many miles either..

Nice one, Chip! A 26" cannondale touring bike- Good luck!

Brand new, look at a Kona Smoke. Used, and there's going to be LOTS of options there, a quality mountain bike that fits.

you can make studded tires using sheet metal screws if you're a total cheapskate.

as you can see here from your responses, the term "winter bike" encompasses two different extremes
1 - the cummuter type winter ride that doesn't often get into real deep stuff, but gets exposed to a lot of saltl
2 - the offroad trail machine that doesnt see as much salt, but is exposed to much rougher frozen trails
so it depends on what you want to use it for and what compromises you are willing to make. I wouldn't want to put a nice suspension bike or new frame thru the salty crap I spend most of my winter time on, old beaters are perfect for this.. and I wouldn't want to use a built mostly for the road commuter for very rough offroad trails for very many miles either..

I guess I mean more of the commuter type. I live in downtown Cincinnati, and there aren't any trails inside the city. I want something that will handle the salt and mess. So does anybody make a cheap, simple bike with disc brakes?

I'd look at the Trek 7.3 FX Disk - it has most of what you have spec'd for under $600
http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1328010&f=26
You might also find a used 7500FX Disk for a decent price.
My previous beater was a 7200FX and it was a good bike, though no disk brakes.

I guess I mean more of the commuter type. I live in downtown Cincinnati, and there aren't any trails inside the city. I want something that will handle the salt and mess. So does anybody make a cheap, simple bike with disc brakes?

If you want a cheap, simple bike for winter use, I think a coaster brake would be best. The only brake you will be using on ice is the rear one anyway. Disc brakes are part of one answer to a different question, "does anyone make an expensive bike that is really good for year-round commuting."

Paul

Question that isn't being asked.

Has anyone really had trouble stopping with boring old (cheap) cantilevers? I mean, I've used cruddy old Shimano pads and had no trouble. I use cantis with drop bars and Diacomp 287 levers. I like them better than V-brakes.

Ebay! I've been bidding on this:

Chipper's usually pretty smart for a troll. But do you think it was a good idea to advertise the bike you're bidding on here? Maybe we'll all go and run the price up on you.

I have posted here many times on my love for my Specialized Hardrock. I bought it in a pawn shop 3 years ago for $100. It was in brand-new condition, although probably 10 years old. It had all the original stickers and decals, and the tires were whiskery. I love it for commuting. The only changes I've made is the tires, being a minimalist at heart. Now I have new (to me) Blizzards and it is. . .


. . . so nice on ice.

Question that isn't being asked.

Has anyone really had trouble stopping with boring old (cheap) cantilevers? I mean, I've used cruddy old Shimano pads and had no trouble. I use cantis with drop bars and Diacomp 287 levers. I like them better than V-brakes.

It depends on the conditions.

When the air is below freezing, the car traffic can keep some roads warm enough to stay wet before the road freezes. But if your bike is below freezing when you ride on this road the water hits your bike, and turns to ice. Many times the brake pads get the space between the pads and the wheel filled with ice. It also can happen if you are riding in snow and get snow on your brakes. The heat from the brakes can warm up the snow to water when you use them and then it turns back to ice. When this happens it does not matter what kind of rim brakes or pads you have, they don't work until you get the ice off. On these days you may notice all the cars have a huge ice chunk hanging down behind the wheels. It may happen a lot where you are, or never, who knows? It has happened to me a few times, but If I was riding off road in deep snow, all you have to do is stop pedaling and the bike stops right away. It only happened to me twice on the road, I was going pretty slow anyway. If I did not already love my snow bike I would try disk brakes.

Theoretically disk brakes will not have this problem, as they don't use the rim. Sticky snow can get carried up onto the top of disk brakes too, I have never tested it myself. Does any one know if you get snow on top of the brake calipers can you have braking problems? I'm talking personal experience not what you heard or read.

Chipper's usually pretty smart for a troll. But do you think it was a good idea to advertise the bike you're bidding on here? Maybe we'll all go and run the price up on you.

Hee hee, yes I do! I posted the pic AND the link hoping that someone would bid it - and they did about 10 minutes before I went out and bought that Mohave for 300 bucks. The more I looked at the Cannondale, the more I realized that it wasn't what I wanted for a winter beater because it has drop bars and no disk brakes. Of course there is still a few days left in the auction, and the price is only like 60 bucks at the moment, so I might still go in and snag it at the last minute if the price is right. Ole Chipper ain't as dumb as he looks, for a troll and I am still uuuuglier than the average troll, Mr. Roody sir. :)

It depends on the conditions.

When the air is below freezing, the car traffic can keep some roads warm enough to stay wet before the road freezes. But if your bike is below freezing when you ride on this road the water hits your bike, and turns to ice. Many times the brake pads get the space between the pads and the wheel filled with ice. It also can happen if you are riding in snow and get snow on your brakes. The heat from the brakes can warm up the snow to water when you use them and then it turns back to ice. When this happens it does not matter what kind of rim brakes or pads you have, they don't work until you get the ice off. On these days you may notice all the cars have a huge ice chunk hanging down behind the wheels. It may happen a lot where you are, or never, who knows? It has happened to me a few times, but If I was riding off road in deep snow, all you have to do is stop pedaling and the bike stops right away. It only happened to me twice on the road, I was going pretty slow anyway. If I did not already love my snow bike I would try disk brakes.

Theoretically disk brakes will not have this problem, as they don't use the rim. Sticky snow can get carried up onto the top of disk brakes too, I have never tested it myself. Does any one know if you get snow on top of the brake calipers can you have braking problems? I'm talking personal experience not what you heard or read.


I don't know the answer to that either, but I'm gonna find out real soon when I take this Mojave for a maiden run. I do know that mechanical disk brakes do share one weakness in the snow and muck with cantis, Vs and calipers - the brake cables themselves.

I don't know the answer to that either, but I'm gonna find out real soon when I take this Mojave for a maiden run. I do know that mechanical disk brakes do share one weakness in the snow and muck with cantis, Vs and calipers - the brake cables themselves.

You realize that if I have to get one of those I will blame YOU !! ~ :D :D :D
I can get one for what a shop pays for one. :)
It looks like the cables have full housings down near the wheels. Looks good.
Not like the rear derailleur on a lot of bikes that has an open inner wire on the seat or chain stay. That's worse, having a place for the water to get in down low. I don't hear about brake cables freezing up with ice.

one thing about fenders is clearance, being in cincinatti he's gonna deal with lots of precip at or around 32F.....meaning fenders with little clearance will get packed with ice and snow and rub the tires........Ive had that happen and it truly sucks

the other things is gears/brakes.........in that kind of weather rim brakes have issues, gear shifting problems can be alleviated with better routing of the derailler cable(do not run it under the bottom bracket)

one possibilty not mentioned above (I dont think), get a cheap MTB and put a single speed rear wheel on it with 135mm spacing..doesnt solve gearing issues for hills but it does help deal with the frozen precip cinci gets lots of

a cheap coaster brake wheel with longer axle and spacers can be fitted to most MTB's with semi horizontal dropouts, and the chainline should be close to the middle chainring on a triple

Im a messenger in columbus so I have a pretty good idea what the weather is like down there, and nope, nobody makes a bike for any of this, you have to put one together that suits your needs........at least there's no shortage of parts to do so

It's intersting to note that a lot of people associate a winter bike with "something that is or has to be cheap". But with todays materials and technology you can build something that will outlast even a landfill. So why does it have to be cheap? Why does it have to be a beater?

To me cheap is synonymous with low durability, and poor quality. Last thing I want to do is fix my ride alongside the road in slush with a temp of -15 f.

Ya you can get buy with $100 fixy, but I want something that's bullit proof. It's my fingers, ears, and toes on the line hear.

I mean, look, you know it's gonna be facing one of the worst enviroments man has created...salt, potholes, and icy asphalts. It's going to be subjected to sub freezing temps, and a foot of snow.

So bear me out, but wouldn't you want something that was made out of titanium? I just don't get the logic of spending over a grand on a titanium road bike for the summer months, and then putting together a bike that was garbage picked for a winter commuter. What are you guys/gals aliens or someth'in?

It's intersting to note that a lot of people associate a winter bike with "something that is or has to be cheap". But with todays materials and technology you can build something that will outlast even a landfill. So why does it have to be cheap? Why does it have to be a beater?

To me cheap is synonymous with low durability, and poor quality. Last thing I want to do is fix my ride alongside the road in slush with a temp of -15 f.

Ya you can get buy with $100 fixy, but I want something that's bullit proof. It's my fingers, ears, and toes on the line hear.

I mean, look, you know it's gonna be facing one of the worst enviroments man has created...salt, potholes, and icy asphalts. It's going to be subjected to sub freezing temps, and a foot of snow.

So bear me out, but wouldn't you want something that was made out of titanium? I just don't get the logic of spending over a grand on a titanium road bike for the summer months, and then putting together a bike that was garbage picked for a winter commuter. What are you guys/gals aliens or someth'in?You say "garbage picked" like that's a bad thing!

I guess that it's really a matter of philosophical (and financial) differences, with no real right or wrong answers. Chances are, I'm just as happy when I'm riding my beater as you are when you're riding your high-priced wonder-bike. :)

And we're both even happier that we're riding in Michigan instead of Ohio!

It's intersting to note that a lot of people associate a winter bike with "something that is or has to be cheap". But with todays materials and technology you can build something that will outlast even a landfill. So why does it have to be cheap? Why does it have to be a beater?

To me cheap is synonymous with low durability, and poor quality. Last thing I want to do is fix my ride alongside the road in slush with a temp of -15 f.

Ya you can get buy with $100 fixy, but I want something that's bullit proof. It's my fingers, ears, and toes on the line hear.

I mean, look, you know it's gonna be facing one of the worst enviroments man has created...salt, potholes, and icy asphalts. It's going to be subjected to sub freezing temps, and a foot of snow.

So bear me out, but wouldn't you want something that was made out of titanium? I just don't get the logic of spending over a grand on a titanium road bike for the summer months, and then putting together a bike that was garbage picked for a winter commuter. What are you guys/gals aliens or someth'in?

To me the frame material isn't the issue. The issue is the components, brakes, shifters, derailleurs, cassette, etc. Tell me what is the advantage of a top-end 10 speed groupo in the winter over cheap (as in low-cost) 7 speed or less older stuff? I have not seen a derailleur-based system yet that could stand up to a Cleveland winter - you are going to replace things at least annually, so why spend big bucks? To me, the most important things to drop money on for winter riding are tires, brakes and lights. The rest just needs to be reliable, so I don't see the point in spending big buck on a Ti frame when a cheap (as in low-cost) frame will serve the purpose just as well.

To Roody's point, I can see why you Wolverines would not want to ride in Ohio, where everywhere there are constant reminders that THE BUCKEYES BEAT MICHIGAN! :D

You realize that if I have to get one of those I will blame YOU !! ~ :D :D :D
I can get one for what a shop pays for one. :)
It looks like the cables have full housings down near the wheels. Looks good.
Not like the rear derailleur on a lot of bikes that has an open inner wire on the seat or chain stay. That's worse, having a place for the water to get in down low. I don't hear about brake cables freezing up with ice.

Of course I can't just ride off on a stock bike. ;) I ordered a Surly Instigator rigid fork, I'm switching out the tires for Serfas Drifters and ordering some studded tires for those icy days, ordered spare mounting brackets for my lights, HB bag and SQR saddlebag mount, put on a rear rack with a Vista light, bar ends, mirror and swing grip, and of course Freddy Fenders, which I am working on making a front mud flap for. I still spent less than $500, not including the studded tires. I think this is going to turn out pretty sweet, I'll post pics when I get everything done.

That Raleigh looks pretty sweet. I may go to the LBS tommorow over lunch and see what they'll take for one of those. $220 for a decent bike w/ disc brakes is awesome. I wonder how much the step up to the Mohave 5.0 would be?

I've given up on the rigid idea. No one sells rigid bikes anymore, so it's a basic supply and demand economics lesson that I won't win :( The reason I want a cheaper bike is 1) I don't really have a lot of money to spend on another bike, and 2) Road salt and chemicals will tear through expensive parts just as easily as cheaper parts, so why fork out the extra money for stuff that will need to be replaced all the time?

That Raleigh looks pretty sweet. I may go to the LBS tommorow over lunch and see what they'll take for one of those. $220 for a decent bike w/ disc brakes is awesome. I wonder how much the step up to the Mohave 5.0 would be?

I've given up on the rigid idea. No one sells rigid bikes anymore, so it's a basic supply and demand economics lesson that I won't win :( The reason I want a cheaper bike is 1) I don't really have a lot of money to spend on another bike, and 2) Road salt and chemicals will tear through expensive parts just as easily as cheaper parts, so why fork out the extra money for stuff that will need to be replaced all the time?

I think the Mohave 4.0 lists at $349, the 5.0 at $459. I got the 4.0 for $300. The 4.0 has a 7 speed cassette, the 5.0 an 8 speed. 5.0 has a little higher end components, Hayes disk brakes while the 4.0 has Promax. I don't see any reason to get the 5.0 for the very reasons you stated.

You can get a rigid, suspension corrected fork with disk mounts from Nashbar for around $65 http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=86&subcategory=1183&brand=&sku=13284&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename= and I just saw a couple on Ebay - 1 for $59 http://cgi.ebay.com/Chromoly-Steel-Disc-V-Brake-Suspension-Corrected-Fork_W0QQitemZ7203782407QQcategoryZ36135QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and another from the UK that is at like $18.50 at the moment http://cgi.ebay.com/Planet-X-rigid-long-fork-Marzocchi-Trials-Disc-Dirt_W0QQitemZ7203643796QQcategoryZ36135QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.

Of course I can't just ride off on a stock bike. ;) I ordered a Surly Instigator rigid fork, I'm switching out the tires for Serfas Drifters and ordering some studded tires for those icy days, ordered spare mounting brackets for my lights, HB bag and SQR saddlebag mount, put on a rear rack with a Vista light, bar ends, mirror and swing grip, and of course Freddy Fenders, which I am working on making a front mud flap for. I still spent less than $500, not including the studded tires. I think this is going to turn out pretty sweet, I'll post pics when I get everything done.

Sounds very nice. I will be waiting for your field test results too. :)

I don't see the point in spending big buck on a Ti frame when a cheap (as in low-cost) frame will serve the purpose just as well. :D

Also....

Salt will stain the raw Titanium frame and it looks crummy all year.

Then people ask, "Why are you riding your good bike in the winter ?" and "What did you do to the frame ?"

Your good bike will last longer too.

A Ti frame frame may not rust out after a few winters but neither will a good steel frame if properly treated. The problem is the components. For winter I want a reliable bike that can handle snow and ice. I havn't found the frame to be a problem. But derailers, brakes and cables are a problem. So I eliminated or reduced my dependency on those components. I run an old touring bike set up as a fixie. This gives me room for studded tires and fenders but means I don't have derailers, shifters or shift cables. And because its fixed I can back pedal as a back up braking measure. By using a good but cheap steel frame I sure have a bike that lasts several seasons but I can afford to replace if my lack of maintence results in frozen BB, seat posts and/or headsets. Durable and reliable does not have to mean expensive.

Craig

Woo hoo! My Surly Instigator rigid fork got here today, so the new winter bike is finished. I'll try to get some better pics in the light of day.

Woo hoo! My Surly Instigator rigid fork got here today, so the new winter bike is finished. I'll try to get some better pics in the light of day.
Cool chip. It looks a lot like my bike, but shinier and it has some nifty doohickeys on it.

Ride it in peace and joy throughout 2006.

Cool chip. It looks a lot like my bike, but shinier and it has some nifty doohickeys on it.

Ride it in peace and joy throughout 2006.

I don't figure it's gonna be shiny for long. Hope you have a great new year free of whoopsies, ladies riding on the sidewalk hollaring at you or janitorial staff who want to run you over, but full of cold and snow real soon! :)

woo hoo!! I just put some money down on a Specialized Rockhopper! It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but $450 isn't too bad. I'll be picking it up next week. After some more research, I realized that disc brakes at my price level are basically a gimmick and make the rest of the components worse. Plus I'm getting a really good frame that will last for years. I can't wait to pick it up!

woo hoo!! I just put some money down on a Specialized Rockhopper! It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but $450 isn't too bad. I'll be picking it up next week. After some more research, I realized that disc brakes at my price level are basically a gimmick and make the rest of the components worse. Plus I'm getting a really good frame that will last for years. I can't wait to pick it up!


I guess we have different concepts of a winter bike - I wanted cheap components, since they'll get trashed by the salt and the muck, but saw value in disks for the conditions I ride in. :) The rockhopper is a sweet bike, you'll enjoy it. Post some pics when you get it and have a great new year!

I guess we have different concepts of a winter bike - I wanted cheap components, since they'll get trashed by the salt and the muck, but saw value in disks for the conditions I ride in. :) The rockhopper is a sweet bike, you'll enjoy it. Post some pics when you get it and have a great new year!

I had originally wanted just a winter bike, but the more I thought about it, I realized that I wanted to ride some trails and stuff too. So, the bike needed to be better as I was going to be riding it more than I had thought. Also, Cincinnati winters are completely different from Cleveland winters. :) We get a decent amount of snow about 3 times a year whereas you get lots of snow all the time from the lake. Discs probably aren't neccessary for me, and if I find they are, I can always add them later.

Happy New Year to you too!