Bicycle Mechanics - How do you install a Power Link?

I am trying to install a Sram Power Link, a quick release part for the chain which lets you remove the chain quickly without having to mess with a chain link pin. The directions say to put the Power Link in place, then twist the chain until it snaps in place. This doesn't work for me. Then my lbs guy said put the Power Link in place, then hit the pedal hard in a forward motion and the PL will snap in place. I have tried this, but the PL falls off the chain. Also, can you use a Sram Power Link with a non Sram chain? I don't know who made my chain, buit I don't think it's a Sram. Thanks for your help.

It is possible that your chain is not compatible with the power link. There are different links for 7/8, 9 and 10 speed chain and a SRAM power link is not neccesarily compatible with other mfr's chains.

After you double-check to make sure that your power-link is suitable for your chain, make sure you do a good job of squeezing the sides of the power-link together. The pins must poke through the holes in the sides of the links. There is a small notch in the pins of the power-link that must seat in the link. Once the pin is sticking out then put tension on the chain (a la stretching it) so that the link slides and locks in place.

I have had to use pliers on occasion to squeeze the power-link enough to have it seat properly.

Bob

If it's a Shimano 7/8-speed chain, apparently there are two slightly different overall widths depending on whether it's an "IG" or "HG" chain. It doesn't matter if you use Shimano's replacement pins but is enough to make the Powerlink useable with one but not the other.

The only certain compatibility is with SRAM's own chains and, even then, there is a certain installation/removal drill you have to know.

I don't know about twisting the chain. I just put the link together and slide the two halves so the pins seat. It's an obvious and simple procedure.

However, I have had problems making a powerlink work with a Shimano 8-speed chain. The chain was just a hair too wide for the powerlink. Maybe this is your problem? If so, then just get an SRAM chain and be done with it.

I had the same problem on my son's MTB bike (a Shimano chain). After 10 minutes of wrangling, I threw on another chain (also Shimano), and it worked fine. Just a fraction of a mm thinner, but it did the trick.

Has anyone tried the links at Walmart? ($1.98 for 2 sets)....I'm tempted, but don't wann'a be a guineau pig....

I've seen the links sold at Ace hardware and places of the like, they require pliers to remove the clip that holds it all together.

Make sure your chain is clean before installing/removing hte powerlink, this makes life easier for when you are starting.

Here's a follow up to my Power Link installation adventure. I put the link in place, but each time I pushed the pedal forward sharply, the link would not snap into position, but fell off. Then I put the link in place, and held it with very small, narrow channel lock pliars. Then I hit the pedal forward hard, and bingo! The link snapped in place! But that's not the end of the story. When I turned the pedal to follow the link around one complete revolution, the link would not go around the pulleys on the rear derailleur (sp?) without clicking. So this leads me to believe my Sram Power Link was not made for the chain I have (can't see a chain name stamped on the chain). So this morning, I will go to my lbs guy and he will save me (again!). Thank God for lbs guys.

Here's a follow up to my Power Link installation adventure. I put the link in place, but each time I pushed the pedal forward sharply, the link would not snap into position, but fell off. Then I put the link in place, and held it with very small, narrow channel lock pliars. Then I hit the pedal forward hard, and bingo! The link snapped in place! But that's not the end of the story. When I turned the pedal to follow the link around one complete revolution, the link would not go around the pulleys on the rear derailleur (sp?) without clicking. So this leads me to believe my Sram Power Link was not made for the chain I have (can't see a chain name stamped on the chain). So this morning, I will go to my lbs guy and he will save me (again!). Thank God for lbs guys.

I'm having the same problem - I installed a new Shimano HG50 chain (marked as being usable "for 6, 7 and 8 speed") using a new 8 speed Sram power link and the portion of the power link that connects to the inner link of the chain won't flex enough to go through the jockey wheels smoothly on one half of the link, yet works fine on the other. The chain skips when in 6, 7 or 8 too, even after cleaning what was left of the original coating off and lubricating with a Teflon lube. Lubrication and flexing the chain with my hands made it work better, but it still doesn't work right. Are these parts compatible?

I'm having the same problem - I installed a new Shimano HG50 chain (marked as being usable "for 6, 7 and 8 speed") using a new 8 speed Sram power link and the portion of the power link that connects to the inner link of the chain won't flex enough to go through the jockey wheels smoothly on one half of the link, yet works fine on the other. The chain skips when in 6, 7 or 8 too, even after cleaning what was left of the original coating off and lubricating with a Teflon lube. Lubrication and flexing the chain with my hands made it work better, but it still doesn't work right. Are these parts compatible?

The following links might help:

KMC M/L-1, 7.3mm pin width: http://www.kmcchain.us/kmcproduct.asp?pid=4899&bsid=34&ssid=572

KMC M/L-2, 7.1mm pin width: http://www.kmcchain.us/kmcproduct.asp?pid=4898&bsid=34&ssid=572

Basically, with 8-speed chains, you have two different widths to deal with.

Regarding two different versions of the SRAM master link:

9-psd and below: The master link is called a Power Link and is easily installed and detached with your fingers. This link is reuseable. To install, place the halves together and tug on the chain. To remove, press the halves together and slide (like snapping your fingers).

10-spd: The master link is called a Power Lock and is not reuseable (per SRAM). To install this link, place the halves together with the link on the upper run, and step on the cranks to set the link.

I've only used the Power Link and Locks with SRAM chains, and as others pointed out they may not be compatible with other brands.

I suggest buying a new SRAM chain with Powerlink, and using your current one as a backup link in case of an emergency.

I've never had any problem at all installing one, but I've only used one with the matching SRAM chain. Removing one has sometimes been a different story. Carefully cleaning the link has sometimes helped. I recently bought a Park tool for removing Power Links and that definitely makes the job a lot easier.

Regarding two different versions of the SRAM master link:

9-psd and below: The master link is called a Power Link and is easily installed and detached with your fingers. This link is reuseable. To install, place the halves together and tug on the chain. To remove, press the halves together and slide (like snapping your fingers).

10-spd: The master link is called a Power Lock and is not reuseable (per SRAM). To install this link, place the halves together with the link on the upper run, and step on the cranks to set the link.

I've only used the Power Link and Locks with SRAM chains, and as others pointed out they may not be compatible with other brands.

I suggest buying a new SRAM chain with Powerlink, and using your current one as a backup link in case of an emergency.

I've used them with Sram chains before and haven't had any trouble after getting them installed, and figure I'll just get another Sram chain. It's still odd that it won't work right for one end but does on the other.

My chain has some kind of "quick release" or "power link" in it. I know nothing about the chain itself or what brand that link is. How can I tell?

I do know that I removed it once to take my chain off to give it a good cleaning. It was a simple procedure getting it off and back on.

Then my lbs guy said put the Power Link in place, then hit the pedal hard in a forward motion and the PL will snap in place.

I remember the first time I tried to get a PL to snap into place. I'm beating on both pedals, but it ain't happening.

My dumb ass finally figured out what I was doing wrong: I'd routed the chain through both derailleurs and was trying to get the PL to snap in place on the "lower" chain run. Well, you can bang on the pedals all you want, but it doesn't give you leverage down there. I slowly rotated the chain around so the PL was on the "upper" chain run, stood on a pedal, and "SNAP" - it immediately went into place.

So, make sure the PL is on the "upper" chain run, else putting pressure on the pedals is useless.