Winter Cycling - The best clothing materials!

Microfiber is the best base layer material, as it wicks moisture away and generally holds in warmth while still allowing skin to breath.

Wool is the best middle/warmth layer, as it stays warm, feels lightweight and can be soft, and feels comfortable even when wet or in warmer weather. Plus, modern wool fibers (i.e. SmartWool brand) are more resilient to washing and hold together very well to abuse and long-term use.

The best top/waterproof layer is still undecided to me. It seems that nylon outer/polyester inner layered jackets, such as those used for snow sports, are the best bet. They are waterproof and breathable, though they seem to make you sweat a bit during workouts.

These materials are excellent on or off a bike, exercising or not. In addition, cotton is an appropriate material for non-exercise applications, such as lounging around the house, as it is inexpensive and easy to wash.

Anyone care to challenge these statements? Let me know why.

Cheers, Alan

well not to get picky, but nylon/polyester jackets don't "make you sweat." You sweat when you get too warm and it's the body's way of cooling itself. The jacket just holds the sweat in, so it doesn't evaporate as fast. I guess that's OK as long as you're staying warm. My jacket is always wet after a hard ride, but I don't care as long as I'm warm and dry inside it. :)

thebankman,

I have to disagree somewhat. I can't speak for the microfiber best as a base layer but I'm inclined to believe that it does make a good base layer. I assume you are taking about the microfiber polyester fleece which is a lightweight fleece.

I have one of these long sleves shirts and it is very warm for it's thickness but I have never wore it as a base layer because it is not tight fitting enough.

I have to disagree with the wool as the best middle layer and I will explain why. Of course wool works reasonably well. But in my opinion it is better if the middle layer is just more thicker wicking type of materials like a thicker fleece. You do not want to trap moisture in the insulation layer but wick it to the outer layer where it can hopefully evaporate.

I generally agree with your outer layer assessment except for one big thing. The majority of ski/snow outerwear use both nylon as the outer and the lining. Usually a taffeta for the lining and supplex or something for the outer shell. There is a good reason for this. The really tightly knit polyesters that are sometimes used for linings make exceptional lightweight windbreakers but even the breathable versions of the fabric don't breath enough for cold weather use.

I have a pair of breathable Nashbar polyester wind pants and I cannot use them over tights because they don't let enough of the moisture out. The nylon tafetta's work better because they still have good wind resistance but they breath much better than the polyester's.

Actually, after several years of experimentation, I'd have to say that polypropylene is the best base layer.

On my previous winter centuries and other rides, I wore a coolmax layer as my base layer, and it always seemed a little bit damp and cold. I would get quite chilled if I had to stop to make any adjustments to my bicycle ... and even when I finished the ride, I would remain quite chilled for some time.

However, on my last two centuries I wore a new combination of clothing which I was VERY impressed with. The century I did in mid-December started at -16C and peaked at -9C. The century I did New Year's day started at -6C and peaked at -3C.

So here's what I wore, on top, for both:

- polypropylene short-sleeved T-shirt.
- coolmax long-sleeved jersey
- marino wool pullover
- polyester fleece jersey
- lined winter jacket (with a "breathable" panel in the back)

On both rides I overheated a bit (and had to unzip things for part of the ride) and on both rides I sweated A LOT ... I could have probably gotten rid of one layer ... but here's the thing ... when I finished the ride and undressed, that polypro T-shirt as my base layer was as dry as it was when I put it on in the morning. The coolmax layer was slightly damp, but not bad. The wool layer was a little bit more damp, but again, not too bad. The fleece layer was wet, as was my jacket.

But at no point on either ride did my torso ever feel chilly or damp. That polypro T-shirt had done exactly what it was supposed to do ... it effectively wicked away the sweat and sent it up into the next layer, which sent it into the next layer, etc., leaving me feeling warm and comfortable while I was riding, any time I had to stop by the side of the road, and even after the ride. :)

Checkout Icebreaker pure merino .
http://www.icebreaker.com/about/merino_miracle.aspx

Hi everybody,

Hezz...Well I've yet to try a polyester fleece, so far I've tried the Coolmax-type microfiber that is lightweight and breathable, but does not trap in heat. For instance, today I treated myself to a Primal Wear jersey and rode for half an hour in just this and jeans. My gut was cold at the end of it but sweat was nonexistent, and I didn't have to dry off before switching to a cotton t-shirt afterward.

Machka...I looked through my closet and found out a few of my base layers are polypropylene, indeed it is good stuff! Is that a type of polyester or a whole other category?
You wore five layers? Dang that seems like a lot, but on second thought they are all so light that such layering makes sense. I'll try that when weather turns foul again here.

Any advice for material for the lower body and legs?

Thanks for the input, Alan

Personally i find Polartechs Powerdry as the best base layer.

This is compared vs polyester, polypropylene, and wool. All of which i have and still use, depending on laundry :P Im msure the combination of actual layers and what climate your in makes this different for others.

A base layer in order to work also needs to be very tight fitting, if its not in contact with your skin, it isnt doing anything.

thebankman,

Your moniker says Bay area so I am assuming your winter rides are in humid 50 - 60 degree weather and are often wet.

I think you would do very well with a single thick winter riding tight over your regular shorts. Some of the better ones for colder riding have a tighter knit and thicker but less stretchy material in the front to better break the wind and ward off water.

Like Sugoi firewall's. Also REI makes a Novara Headwind pant for about 80 USD which is quite water resistant.

Actually, after several years of experimentation, I'd have to say that polypropylene is the best base layer.

I have been using polyester as my base layer (actually 2 layers, one short sleeve, one long).

Machka - Based on your experience, I went and bought a polypro shirt yesterday ($13USD). I should be able to try it out tomorrow. I have been using polypro longjohns, generally under 20F and like them.

There is another tread that I posted this on... but I'll repeat my own observations again -

I switched everything over to wool over the last 2 years. Got rid of my stinky polyprop base and turtlenecks... and rarely wear my fleece. For me, the polypro worked - but left me a bit clammy - and after repeated washings - I could never get that funk smell out of it. The wool and wool blends do not gather the stink.

I like Ibex, and buy too many of their products. (easy, as my lbs carries it and everything I could want...) The Smartwool shirts look great too, although I've never tried them.


Depending on temp I wear the woolies as a base layer, then either a mid-weight, followed by a light jacket. If I'm riding, or its windy I'll wear the Icefall jacket - which is "climawool" - a softshell, windproof and water resitant, but breathable.


Yesterday, at 30 degrees F for the start of my ride (and windy!) I wore:

Ibex Zephyr as a base. (older model name)
Shak lightweitght jacket
Icefall jacket

This proved to be a bit too warm!

Wool.

I'm pretty much down with wool cycling shorts, wool knickers, wool tights,wool socks, wool t shirts, wool jerseys, wool flannel shirts, wool sweaters, wool climawool softshells, wool and more wool. I'm wearing some merino wool and a wool hat as i type this...

did i spell wool right?


this stuff, it's like, natures' miracle fibre. I can wear a wool jersey and shorts at 100 degrees touring, and add a couple thin wool layers and be good to go below freezing- all with a material that feels dry almost all the time, and one you can keep wearing after you stop exercising without feeling the effects of massive evaporative cooling, so common in synthetics.

I stopped wearing capilene and all the rest of that synthetic crap as a base layer in 1998 and haven't gone back. Wool is king.

Schoeller dryskin is a pretty gnarl fabric layer for jackets and pants though, so I can't say that I've given all the manmades up.Schoeller Dryskin over wool as a foul weather top, or pertex. very rarely something waterproof.

I'd buy ibex and smartwool, but I'd have to sell my bike to finance it...

.. IceBreaker Wool underwear Uber Alles!!

No seriously this stuff is costly as a base layer but amazing: It does not stink even if you wear if for days. Top notch insulation and breathability. Does not itch. Beats the bejezus out of the Odlo and Craft base layers i have tried (though they are by no means bad, but god can they stink).

My wife complains about my poly/fibre drytex 3000 top's smell. My solution was fabreezing it when I get home.Works great on hockey gear so why not bike gear as well.

I'd buy ibex and smartwool, but I'd have to sell my bike to finance it...

www.campmor.com has Ibex and sometimes it's on sale. Go for it.

www.campmor.com has Ibex and sometimes it's on sale. Go for it.

sierra trading post as well.

Ibex has stuff on closeout on their website all the time. sometimes wool bike jerseys for 50 bucks. still not 'cheap' but affordable....

I got my first pair of wool socks this fall: Smartwool, and I love them. I went back to REI to get a thicker pair after my feet were cold on a 21 mile 28 deg F ride, and found a guy buying up their stock of REI wool socks. He liked the SmartWool socks, but thinks the REI wool are even softer. Both are Merino wool, but the REI were 40% less money. I tried them and loved them so much that I also tried the REI Merino wool base layer. Again, about 40% less than Smartwool.

Now, I haven't tried a Smartwool baselayer yet to compare, but this is not the wool I grew up with. With the socks I thought they were more comfortable than cotton. With the tops & bottoms, they are not as soft as cotton (or the wool socks), but not itchy either. I rode for 4 1/2 hrs on Sunday and didn't have to take off or add to my layers even though the temp. fluctuated by 20 degrees over the course of the ride. I wore Merino wool socks, baselayer bottoms & zip-T top w/ a pair of cycling trouser shorts overtop and temps went from 45 to 65 degrees. (Admittedly a bit chilly at 45 deg until our first hill).

bmike, what's the midweight layer made of that you put on inbetween the wool base and your shell? I wore a fleece pullover the other day (@ just below freezing temps) and it was too warm and way too smelly...

I wear poly, poly, and nylon.

Poly "cold weather compression" long sleeve running shirt & poly bike shorts as base, a poly T-shirt and poly running tights as mid, possibly another poly layer on top if it's < 0*F, then cheap lined nylon running pants and a waterproof breathable rain jacket on top. I've used this down to -5*F so far with no problems.

bmike, what's the midweight layer made of that you put on inbetween the wool base and your shell? I wore a fleece pullover the other day (@ just below freezing temps) and it was too warm and way too smelly...


wool. the shak jacket from ibex. (an older model, not sure if it's the right name) - basically a heavier midweight wool that i wear everywhere when the temps are above 40. (out in town, for errands, on the bike, on the xc skis, etc) i had it on under the climawool, over a midweight wool tneck base. too sweaty, and temps were 28 when i returned.

Wool for base-layer (including socks and mittens) works best for me in the cold. I also like wool for second layer (sweater and/or pants) when it's very cold, but sometimes I use fleece. I don´t like lined jackets, the outer layer should only be for wind and/or water proofing, not for insulating.

The above is based on my personal experience, but a once a textile engineer (with a M.Sc. degree in the field) explained to me how no manmade fibers beat natural wool fibers in insulating properties when damp or wet. This was about 10 years ago however and much improvements have been made since.

As a counterpoint: Merino Wool is not just ordinary wool and personally i have found it does work better than the fibers by Odlo and Craft but that is personal and opinion.

A bit of a thread hi jack, but how about these ideas as cheap alternatives to special base layers for summer! riding/touring:

1. One of those basketball/ice hockey sleeveless (large armpit holes) shirts with the tons of tiny holes (not too big or else people might think you are into kinky rather than biking ha ha).. that should breathe well, be easy to clean and dry rapidly. Plus is is very tough fabric. I wouldn't be too worried about it stinking providing the pit holes are generous.

2. How about just a slightly loose 'punked out' cotton T shirt. When i cycle in summer with a cotton T i always find it is at the pits and back that i can't vent enough heat and moisture. So how about cutting a T's sleeves off and armpit holes way lower (like up to the midriff) and cutting out a triangle or strip out of the back. In theory you would have insulation where you need it (chest, where the oncoming wind could chill you even if it is pretty warm) and venting in the areas that you are hot in (pits because of sweating and heat exchange) and back because of sweating and sun beating on it.

Any thoughts? Anyone tried either approach?

I think this is a pretty complicated thread covering a pretty uncomplicated subject. A lot of over analyzing here. One topic that i am always interested to read about is sweating. I've ridden thousands of very cold miles and basically i can say that i really never sweat.

I've had a lot of people challenge me when i say that. They say things like i'm not exerting enough, etc. However, this is incorrect. You don't have to sweat. At least not to the point where fabric becomes wet. At worst, my clothing may become slightly damp but never wet.

Why? Because i always take steps to avoid it. I don't want any wetness in freezing temps, wicking material or not. I have ridden enough, that i am pretty good at getting my dress right where i don't sweat. If i do feel sweat coming on then i take precautionary measures and remove clothing, unzip, etc. It is very easy to head off.

Go on a 20 mile ride naked in -5 F weather and tell me how much you sweat. You won't be able to work hard enough to sweat, at least I don't think so.

Well i don't know, i agree and disagree with all that Ranger. I am certain what you do works for you. Just like i am certain that Millions of people in the Netherlands get by riding on pretty clunky ill suited bikes. But does that mean that either of those things (should) work for me... and especially for everyone else?

Some people sweat more, some people cycle at higher speeds or generate more heat, some people cycle lots in warm wheater.

And finally i like the added comfort of adequate (not necessarily ubertechnical) clothing that requires little adjusmtent as it will allow me to focus on the ride rather than spend too much time unzipping, removing, layering etc.

But i do agree that with some sensible precautions, fairly minimal adjustements and decent clothes (rather than the best and most expensive fibers) almost any cyclist could be comfortable in all but the most competitive scenarios or extreme wheather conditions.

That is why i posted my idea about cheap/alternative base layers because i don't feel more and technical gear and clothes is really the (only) solution. Personally i have found that in cold wheather cycling at high intensity some cotton can work ok, but with the following precautions:

1. A Jacket (i use a cheap military style Parka) that unzips easily over the whole length as soon as you start to sweat.

2. A 3 Dollar Beanie hat that goes over the ears and which is removed as soon as you feel warm from cycling (a couple of minutes). Head (un)covering really can make a huge difference to temperature and sweating.

3. Some Army pants with about 75% cotton, the rest poly.

4. A cheap fleece sweater that has a turtle type neck which can be zipped up or down.

5. Gloves! Any but mits are best or a Fingerless/Mit flapover combo, same as hat, remove if not needed.

6. Decent leather shoes that won't get wet in a hurry and have some insulation.

7. A cotton T that is sleeveless, roomy cotton Boxershorts and cotton sportsocks.

Now this may sound like a lot or a hassle but it isn't in my case. These are the clothes i wear 24/7 anyhow (on bike or not).

Additonally depending on how long the ride or how fickle the wheater long army underpants and a rainjacket carried on the bike can be very nice. Putting some baby powder in your socks before the ride can be real nice too. As i learned from snowboarding it helps to keep you feet very dry which means they will be warm and not stink at the end of the ride.

...

That is why i posted my idea about cheap/alternative base layers because i don't feel more and technical gear and clothes is really the (only) solution. Personally i have found that in cold wheather cycling at high intensity some cotton can work ok, but with the following precautions:

...


Smartwool and Ibex really aren't "more and technical". Some of the blending may be... but my guess is that wool pre-dates cotton as a material for making clothing.

I think you mean to say more and expensive... which is cool too. Not sure how you ride in cotton - to each his own.

Sure i meant the blending as well as the rather astronomic cost when compared to cotton. I really prefer wool or technical stuff by the way, but i also like making do and don't have the budget to replace all my cotton T-shirts yet. But i hope to phase out most of them in favor of wool over time. As for how i ride in cotton, well ha ha, i just described it above. Works ok. But might not for others, only one way to be find out.

Wow great to see so many responses.

Smartwool makes a great sock. My fingers and feet/toes get cold almost instantly and without these socks it would be hard for me to be comfortable just walking out of my door. San Francisco has been mostly cold and rainy for two months and layering has kept me on the road every day except where flood advisories are in effect ;)

Usually I just wear boxers and jeans. If it's truly cold, Under Armor tights under shorts or cotton sweatpants (yes they get wet and are annoyingly puffy but I have to use them up while they're in my closet).

Lately I've been lazy when going on a ride and just put on layers over street clothes. Unfortunately this means the street clothes get covered in sweat and have to be removed upon return.

I just bought a long sleeve crew and long pants from an Eddie Bauer store that is made of SmartFabric Technology by Outlast Technologies, Inc.. It is supposed to have Thermomodules that trap body heat and release it back to the body as needed thereby regulating your temperature and keeping it steady. The claim is that it's "Certified Space Technology developed by NASA." Okay, sounds like a bunch of bull but it was cheap and feels like it will be comfortable against my skin so it won't be a total loss even if I just use it to sit in stands at football games or for shoveling snow. I just got it a few hours ago and haven't ridden with it yet. Has anyone ever used this stuff or even heard of it?

Sure i meant the blending as well as the rather astronomic cost when compared to cotton. I really prefer wool or technical stuff by the way, but i also like making do and don't have the budget to replace all my cotton T-shirts yet. But i hope to phase out most of them in favor of wool over time. As for how i ride in cotton, well ha ha, i just described it above. Works ok. But might not for others, only one way to be find out.

Well, you don't have to phase out all your cotton T-shirts!! I still own cotton T-shirts, I just don't wear them while riding. All you need to do is to pick up one or two other base layers in wool or polypro or something.

And do you ride in cotton in cold temps? (below freezing?) If so, doesn't your cotton layer become absolutely laden with sweat?

One topic that i am always interested to read about is sweating. I've ridden thousands of very cold miles and basically i can say that i really never sweat.

I've had a lot of people challenge me when i say that. They say things like i'm not exerting enough, etc. However, this is incorrect. You don't have to sweat. At least not to the point where fabric becomes wet. At worst, my clothing may become slightly damp but never wet.

Why? Because i always take steps to avoid it. I don't want any wetness in freezing temps, wicking material or not. I have ridden enough, that i am pretty good at getting my dress right where i don't sweat. If i do feel sweat coming on then i take precautionary measures and remove clothing, unzip, etc. It is very easy to head off.

Go on a 20 mile ride naked in -5 F weather and tell me how much you sweat. You won't be able to work hard enough to sweat, at least I don't think so.


When I'm riding on flat ground at a nice comfortable pace in moderate temps, I barely crack a sweat either ... but the moment I climb a hill, or the temperature goes up, or I exert myself a bit, or I layer up for a very cold ride (probably a bit too much sometimes), it's like my pores open up and I become Niagara Falls.

That's one of my issues with climbing hills generally, even on nice mild days when I'm wearing shorts and a jersey ... I overheat to the point where everything I'm wearing is completely soaked, my vision goes all red and blurry, I can hear my heartbeat pounding in my head, and I get dizzy and nauseated. (That's why I prefer headwinds! Climbing hills is a miserable experience.) And the same thing happens in winter when I'm dressed comfortably for a flat ride at a comfortable pace ... the first hill I climb and my base layer is drenched. I have worn cotton on a few occasions back in the days before I knew better ... and I could literally wring it out if I had put any effort into my ride at all.

I sometimes ride in subzero temp, with cotton no problem, but the thing is i live in the Netherlands, no mountains and barely any hills here. Additionally i emply the strategies i mentioned above plus i don't sweat so much in general and i think my 'Aluin stone eco deo' helps too.

I wasn't planning to phase out all my Cotton tees btw, just barely use them for cycling and have less of them. I have tons at present, almost all acquired for free.