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240GL
 
I have made my first experiences with studded this winter. I ended up with a pair of Nokian Hakkapeliitta w240 for my hybrid with 28" rims. These tires have 240 studs each, and offer great grip. (Okay, I haven't tried other makes.) I did my first nervous commutes on roads covered with wet ice, but once I managed to suppress my wish to live and dared leaning hard into the turns, there was no tendency to slide. Having studded on the bike made much more difference than studded on the car.

But, I notice that particularly when riding straight ahead on bare roads, the bike feels quite wobbly. I can best describe it as if the rear wheel wants do to some steering of its own. When using the slick summer tires, the bike tracks as straight as an arrow, so I assume the difference is the tires.

Has anybody else experienced this?

Thanks,
Erling.

http://www.handigeherrn.biz/images/nokian/w240.jpg

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CBBaron
 
But, I notice that particularly when riding straight ahead on bare roads, the bike feels quite wobbly. I can best describe it as if the rear wheel wants do to some steering of its own. When using the slick summer tires, the bike tracks as straight as an arrow, so I assume the difference is the tires.

Has anybody else experienced this?
http://www.handigeherrn.biz/images/nokian/w240.jpg
Not really but I have a much less agressively studded tire with only 2 rows of studs vs 4 (Nashbar 700c studded). In my case the studs touch the pavement but most of the weight is on the center rubber knobs. On those tires you will always be riding studs. Your tires will have better traction on snow and ice but will ride rougher and tend to move on dry pavement as metal studs are not the best material for traction on pavement.
For my commute icy roads are uncommon but dangerous so the less agressive studs are ideal. For best traction in poor conditions Nokian 240s are better.
Craig

BikeInMN
 
The tires you bought are intended for off road trail use. I have Extreme 294s which are a similar tire but 26 inch and they're not great on pavement either. A better choice for commuting is the Hakka W106 which is suited loads better for on road use.

2manybikes
 
What pressure are you running? as low as possible helps the traction on the ice. With low pressure the rim is allowed to move a little compared to where the tread is. If you run high pressure tires in the nice weather, you can notice the difference easily.

This is typical if you run low pressure for traction on ice. Don't worry about it.

CastIron
 
I'm running the 296's on my commuter hardtail and the handling went to $hit. Sure I have snow/ice traction out the wazoo, but the ride is wierd and dry corners are un-nerving. Still happy with 'em. Give a little, take a little.

2manybikes
 
I'm running the 296's on my commuter hardtail and the handling went to $hit. Sure I have snow/ice traction out the wazoo, but the ride is wierd and dry corners are un-nerving. Still happy with 'em. Give a little, take a little.

Exactly, everything is a trade off or a compromise.

Weebles wobble but they don't fall down. :rolleyes:

240GL
 
Thanks for your comments, guys(/gals?), much appreciated. The LBS sold me these as road tires, and as I read in a bike mag that you need a minimum of 200 studs I thought these would be great. And well, they are, but it takes some getting used to on dry roads. It's like Mike said; give a little, take a little.
Erling.

penanaut
 
I commute in Minneapolis proper with Hakka 106s. I love them and I also experienced a control difference. I ride a hardtail. I think someone hit it on the head about tire pressure. I had them low for the ice but on dry I thought the rear was going to get away from me on higher speeds (above 18MPH). I messed with the pressure and it got better at 50lbs. The 106s are nice too because they aren't as darn heavy and slow as the ones you have. Try putting more air in.

Juha
 
+1 to tire pressure comments. I also ride with W106s and there's a noticable difference in handling. I don't think it's too bad though, ice and snow and cold weather in itself make for noticable differences in handling :). I would imagine with such an aggressive tread as the W240s have differences will be bigger.

And if a bike mag suggests that +200 studs are required for road use, I beg to differ. The W106s, for example, are more than adequate for riding on the roads in winter.

--J

BikeInMN
 
And if a bike mag suggests that +200 studs are required for road use, I beg to differ. The W106s, for example, are more than adequate for riding on the roads in winter.
--J

Totally agree...
riding on a plowed surface doesn't require a more aggressive tire than the W106

CastIron
 
Totally agree...
riding on a plowed surface doesn't require a more aggressive tire than the W106

Sure but...
If you're gonna go studded, why not go all the way? Seems the plow drivers are rather fickle.

TRaffic Jammer
 
ok stud riders...check it out. How about custom SCREW tires?
http://coupedesglaces.org/
Time to put your ice riding where your mouth is. lol
Montreal is a beautiful city with some of the most amazing women ANYWHERE.

Go to the race.

Juha
 
Sure but...
If you're gonna go studded, why not go all the way? Seems the plow drivers are rather fickle.

Extra cost, extra weight, extra resistance. The W106s provide all the traction I have ever needed for on-road riding. But that's just me, your mileage may vary.

--J

thebulls
 
In my experience, W106 is totally useless on the bike path in DC area. Some paths get somewhat plowed and some don't. Often the temp goes above freezing during the day, so anyone riding leaves behind them nice ruts, almost always twisty because it is hard to ride straight on partially frozen snow/ice/sludge. Sometimes the ruts are really twisty where riders have gone down. Next morning it has all turned back to ice with ruts that have nearly vertical sidewalls that are typically an inch deep, usually with nice sharp edges at the top. With W106's there are no studs on the sides to catch the sidewall of the rut and help you climb out. When the rut turns, either your tire climbs you out, or the rut's going to catch you and take you whichever way it goes. Far enough off course at a fast-enough speed and you're going down. If you go slow enough, you might be able to steer perpendicular to the rut's edge as you notice that the rut turns. But now you're going sideways across the bike path and have to get going straight again. Ack!

I even found that with an Nokian Extreme on the front and Mount and Ground on the back that my front end would climb out of the rut and then the back end wouldn't and I'd end up going sideways for a bit until the back end popped out. Very unnerving, though I never did more than dab with this set of tires. Now I have Extreme's on both ends. Very stable but heavy and slow. Life is full of compromises. Now if it would just snow again!

ghettocruiser
 
I have to agree that centre-studded tires are needed for using bike paths around here in the winter. The odd thing is that the compression of the snow means that the bike path stays icy long after the surrounding area has melted away.

Either way, there are only a handful of pedestrians, most of which are edging their way along the ice-free side of the path, so with the full studs it's pretty much wide open.

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