Bicycle Mechanics - Bottom Bracket failing?

I was riding home on Friday night when I could hear a clunk coming from the bottom bracket area and one some occasions I could actually 'feel' it through the pedals.

I checked the bracket at home by grabbing the ends of both cranks and tried to move them at 90 degrees to the direction of the axle. There was some play in there, not a great deal but enough to get me worried. There was no play along the length of the bracket.

Is it needing some attention? I think I have a cone and axle variant (lockring on non-drive side, big flat on drive side). Should I just get the LBS to change the bracket for a cartridge variant now to cut down on the maintenance?

First thing to check are your crank bolts. They will from time to time work their way loose. If they are tight, take them off and check the spindle of the bb for play or wobble. Also, rotate the spindle and try to feel for or listen for the bearings clicking or catching. The spindle should spin freely and not feel tight.
Also check the bb cups and be sure they are tight also.

Slainte:beer:

It does sound like the fixed cup might be loosening up. That can produce a "thud" or "clunk" sensation as the cup shifts.

Thanks for the info

I've checked the cranks and they are on tight and there is no play in them. The play I definitely in the spindle (I can see it move relative to the frame and cups.

Obviously to sort this out I'm going to have to take the cranks off. Is it a one size fits all approach for the crank remover tool, or will I need to take the bike to the LBS to get let them see which one I need?

:) The bb has been just a peace of junk this year It's my 4th in just 90 days. I got an up graded one for $70.00 but it wasn't that great about 700 miles on it,Lbs say I pedal to hard,time to find a new Lbs.:)can someone pedal to hard I don't think so.

A tapered sipndle crank uses a park cwp5c crank puller. Splined cranks that do not have self extractors use a park ccp-4c.

if it's not a sealed unit, take off the the cranks, undo the adjustable side and take out the cup and bearings. Use a torch to check the bearing surface of the fixed cup, but check both running surfaces for pits. If smooth, grease, reassemble and tighten till it takes all play out. Then tighten up lockring.

You might have to try to adjust the play out when tightening up as tightening the lockring sometimes affects the adjustment.

if the surfaces are pitted, new bb I'm afraid.