Touring - Mustache Bars For Touring?

Drops don't work for me because of arthritis in the neck and collarbones. I need to sit up a little more than most of the stock touring sets I've seen. The Trek 520 I just bought came with a set of Modolo 'Brevatatto' drop bars (sounds like ordering a coffee in Seattle). It has good brake levers that I want to keep and they will work with mustache bars.

Anyone had experience with longer rides using these things? Thanks.

I've commuted with moustache bars for about 1000 miles,and have yet to get comfortable on them.my hands always go numb.I've tried different stems but no luck.I recently ditched them for a "brahma" type mtb bar and am very happy with them.no numbness yet,

Drops don't work for me because of arthritis in the neck and collarbones. I need to sit up a little more than most of the stock touring sets I've seen. The Trek 520 I just bought came with a set of Modolo 'Brevatatto' drop bars (sounds like ordering a coffee in Seattle). It has good brake levers that I want to keep and they will work with mustache bars.

Anyone had experience with longer rides using these things? Thanks.
I love 'em. I find that I don't use the lower drop bar when touring, and not that often even when on a road bike. My favorite hand position is riding the brake lever hoods. I mounted the moustache bars with the ends angled down just a bit and the brake levers just a little higher than usual, making them very comfortable (for me). The result is a riding position much like riding the top of the drop bars, and even the hoods, with plenty of hand positions available. I've used them on two touring bikes now and I like them a lot.

Here are some pics to illustrate. (http://www.daystarbotanicals.com/bicycles/index_exp.html)

I hope this helps,

Ted Phelps
Central Valley, California

I've commuted with moustache bars for about 1000 miles,and have yet to get comfortable on them.my hands always go numb.I've tried different stems but no luck.I recently ditched them for a "brahma" type mtb bar and am very happy with them.no numbness yet,

Thanks,
I have a carpal thing that really bugged me with numbness. So, I switched the seat to a comfort type and started riding more up-right. Got rid of the straight MB bars and went to North Roads. Problem solved.

Note: If you read my sage advice in the Fender Length/Position thread, you'll see that I don't care about cool. been that most of my life, figure I can relax now. :D

I love 'em. I find that I don't use the lower drop bar when touring, and not that often even when on a road bike. My favorite hand position is riding the brake lever hoods. I mounted the moustache bars with the ends angled down just a bit and the brake levers just a little higher than usual, making them very comfortable (for me). The result is a riding position much like riding the top of the drop bars, and even the hoods, with plenty of hand positions available. I've used them on two touring bikes now and I like them a lot.

Here are some pics to illustrate. (http://www.daystarbotanicals.com/bicycles/index_exp.html)

I hope this helps,

Ted Phelps
Central Valley, California

What a beautiful bike! Now that's what I'm talking about. I would even go higher with the bars because of physical posture problems. Thanks. I need to get started on this bike soon. I plan to ride the Seattle/Portland Classic this summer on it. A few centuries will have to done first and I'm looking for a good comfortable set-up. I plan top start those in March. I think the 520 will do nicely. I'm also switching to a Brooks B-67 instead of the B-17 because of the more upright style. I'll get there eventually.

Note: If you read my sage advice in the Fender Length/Position thread, you'll see that I don't care about cool. been that most of my life, figure I can relax now. :D
Isn't that the truth!

I hope you get that riding position all figured out in time for all the great summer rides.

Best,

Ted

Isn't that the truth!

I hope you get that riding position all figured out in time for all the great summer rides.

Best,

Ted

Oh yeah. I know what's most comfortable for me - an English 3-speed! I've turned my old 830 into one, only with 18 rings.

I think if I can replicate the height of my North Roads (on my FrankenTrek) I'll be fine. For me, it's getting the pressure off my neck, collarbones and hands. My hands are shot, period. :(

I've been researching various bars for a new bike. Drops don't work for me due to back problems. Someone mentioned the Jones H-bar (www.jonesbikes.com). I got a chance to ride one recently and I will almost definitely being put a set on the upcoming build. The give several good positions and provide what I think will be enough variety for longer rides. They're pricey, but I think will be worth it for me, not to mention the weight savings.

I've been researching various bars for a new bike. Drops don't work for me due to back problems. Someone mentioned the Jones H-bar (www.jonesbikes.com). I got a chance to ride one recently and I will almost definitely being put a set on the upcoming build. The give several good positions and provide what I think will be enough variety for longer rides. They're pricey, but I think will be worth it for me, not to mention the weight savings.


Many people have been very happy with the Nitto Albatross bars, my wife included. They are versatile, and are easier to set up for upright riding than moustache bars. My wife uses them for her touring mountain bike/Xtracycle. They really solve some of the problems people have with drops.

At first, I thought they wouldn't be comfortable for long rides, but the reports from young and old riders affirm that they work well for touring.

Here is a picture:



http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/images/catpics/16-127.jpg


They can be used with barend shifters at the ends, or mountain bike shifters, and if you want brakes can be inserted backwards into the ends for another set-up.

Visit this link to see a bike set-up with Moustache bars and also in Albatross bars. It will give you an idea of the differences.

http://home.earthlink.net/%7Erivpics/paul/riv.htm


Here is my wife's second bike with the bars:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/steelcommuter/glorius2.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/steelcommuter/glorius1.jpg

Here are some pics to illustrate. (http://www.daystarbotanicals.com/bicycles/index_exp.html)

Wow! What a gorgeous pair of bikes! Those racks on the Specialized are beautiful, and I love the Allen head hardware. Looks like stainless steel, maybe? And I'm no roadie, but the Pinarello could convert me. . .

To: SteelCommuter :
Yes, I've seen those Albatross bars on several nice bikes, and now yours. ANT bikes sets up their tourers in a similar way. Very good looking rigs. That's really what I have on my Trek 830 MB (1988), except they are North Road, which is slightly different. It's definitely my riding style and I have no problems going 60+ miles before stopping for more than 15 minutes or so. Wind? Well, if it doesn't kill you, it can only make you stronger. Besides, it usually doesn't last that long.

I would go with something like that on the 520 except it has very nice Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers that will fit the mustachios. Otherwise, I'd have to hassle with a trade or a sale for MB levers.

my nitto mustache bars are comfy for commuting, but i find that on longer rides i don't have enough hand positions. i'm switching to drops asap.

To: SteelCommuter :
Yes, I've seen those Albatross bars on several nice bikes, and now yours. ANT bikes sets up their tourers in a similar way. Very good looking rigs. That's really what I have on my Trek 830 MB (1988), except they are North Road, which is slightly different. It's definitely my riding style and I have no problems going 60+ miles before stopping for more than 15 minutes or so. Wind? Well, if it doesn't kill you, it can only make you stronger. Besides, it usually doesn't last that long.

I would go with something like that on the 520 except it has very nice Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers that will fit the mustachios. Otherwise, I'd have to hassle with a trade or a sale for MB levers.


One thing to consider is that with moustache bars, you will need a different stem then with drops. It needs a shorter stem, especially if you have any back issues and don't want to stretch. That could be a problem. I have a pair of M-bars and I haven't really used them because I don't have extra stems lying around.

North Roads are cool, too. I think someone mentioned the Jones bar, but several people have complained about them on multi-day tour trips, notably one of the competitors in the Great Divide off road race last year.

You know, I just love the growing variety of bars out there!

my nitto mustache bars are comfy for commuting, but i find that on longer rides i don't have enough hand positions. i'm switching to drops asap.

Exactly my experience. This bike was a great commuter but grabbing those bars for 6 hours at a time was another story.....
I've since built up a LHT with drop bars...

One thing to consider is that with moustache bars, you will need a different stem then with drops. It needs a shorter stem, especially if you have any back issues and don't want to stretch. That could be a problem. I have a pair of M-bars and I haven't really used them because I don't have extra stems lying around.

North Roads are cool, too. I think someone mentioned the Jones bar, but several people have complained about them on multi-day tour trips, notably one of the competitors in the Great Divide off road race last year.

You know, I just love the growing variety of bars out there!

Well, after being out in the bike shops today, I have almost settled on the North Roads. They are half the price of mustache bars and will accept the bar-end shifters. Besides, since finding so comfortable a position as on my old Trek, I'm hesitant to switch to an unknown at this point. We have a Bike Swap coming up in Feb around here. I'll see if I can trade my Cane Creek levers for some decent MB type. I have an adjustable stem around here somewhere...

Thanks to all for the great input. I just needed some reinforcement on something I already was pretty sure of.

One thing to consider is that with moustache bars, you will need a different stem then with drops. It needs a shorter stem, especially if you have any back issues and don't want to stretch. That could be a problem. I have a pair of M-bars and I haven't really used them because I don't have extra stems lying around.

North Roads are cool, too. I think someone mentioned the Jones bar, but several people have complained about them on multi-day tour trips, notably one of the competitors in the Great Divide off road race last year.

You know, I just love the growing variety of bars out there!

not to hijack, but is it really necessary to switch stems between moustache bars and drops? i'm switching to drops for touring, and have no idea how to choose a stem - was kind of hoping to keep the stem i have now for a slightly more upright ride. but i could see how the positioning might be wrong.

not to hijack, but is it really necessary to switch stems between moustache bars and drops? i'm switching to drops for touring, and have no idea how to choose a stem - was kind of hoping to keep the stem i have now for a slightly more upright ride. but i could see how the positioning might be wrong.

Well, the Nitto M-bar is a Grant Petersen-modified design of a Japanese bar. On the Riv site, he wrote this:

"Tip: Most people, switching from drops to Moustache H'bars, prefer a stem about 2cm to 4cm shorter in the extension."
http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/handlebars_stems_tape/16027.html

Everyone I know who has one has done this. If you have a stem in which m-bars are set-up well for you, and then you want to switch to drops, you will want to consider a new/used stem 2-4 cm longer.

If you put the drops into the stem and tighten the clamp bolt, get on the bike and lean against a wall, testing the position, you'll probably find it less than ideal with the same stem.

Another bar that you might want to try is the On-One Midge. Seems like this bar is getting rave reviews from tourers, all-rounders, and dirt people. I haven't gotten my pair yet, but the really comfortable position on this Swedish? guy sold me. http://snabelslash.com/bo/one-less-car/?m=15&article=120
You just have to keep them high since the drops are the primary position (I hate riding on the hoods).

I was JUST thinking about Mustache bars yesterday.

Exactly what are they?

Well, in the 50's and 60's and probably into the 70's as well we had "cow horns" on most bikes sold in the USA. That was common in the rest of the world as well. The most common Dutch bicycles have them, English Bobby bikes as well and the Japanese had them on their bicycles.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

The problem with them is that they sit you back on the saddle and almost completely upright. That means that "comfortable saddle" takes on an entirely different meaning because even short rides can really kill you.

What we saw on those bicycles was large padded saddles often with heavy springing.

The drop bar crowd were sort of looked down on as hotrodders were. And in Japan, the land of conformity for conformity's sake school children were ordered not to bring bicycles with drop bars to school.

In with the Mustache bar which looked like a drop bar but didn't have the drops. And on the practical side was little more than cow horns constructed so that they would move you a little forward and place a little more weight on the bars and a little less on your tail end.

I suppose there's nothing wrong with Mustache bars but then I suppose there's nothing intrinsically wrong with cow horn bars either. The real problem is that they put your wrists at a somewhat odd angle onto which to place weight. This works fine when you're sitting upright but not too hot when you're leaning onto your hands.

So position is everything when setting up these sorts of bars. The forward position, the lean, the saddle - everything needs to be perfect before you can ride this setup for long periods of time.

I just bought the moustache this weekend so I 'm not exactly sure how they will feel. I also bought (months ago) an adjustable stem from another BF member. I bought this to play around with on all of my bikes. Ifigure I will put in on the bikes and find the perfect stem angle, height and length. Once found, I'll get the appropriate stem. Another thing to keep in mind about moustache bars is TT length. I bought an old cromo steel frame with a shorter TT for just this purpose. We'll see if my calculation are right.
The problem with a more upright position is 'butt pressure'. While in drops your weight is spread out to hands, feet and butt. More upright position: the weight goes more to your bottom. I think people get wrist/hand problems from laying out too far. This happened to me when I commuted on a mnt bike that was too long for me.
Another handlebar that I like is the trekking bar from nashbar. Lots of hand positions. I commute with one everyday. I like this bar as it allows you to change the angle of your back without getting too low. Check it out. As we age we need to change our body position more often. I think the handlebars you chose will be fine for knocking around town but for long multiday tours I think your butt will hate you. Later Charlie
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

I just recently got the Nitto M'Bar a couple months ago, and I really love it better than any drop bar I've ever owned, and yes, it is a great bar to do a lot of climbing on. I run it wrapped like a drop bar, but then have rubber grips on the very end, seeing as how I do a lot of climbing on my commute, so I keep my hands there most of the time.

That being said, from everything I've read about them on Bikeforums, people either love them, love them except on long rides, or hate them. It's sort of one of those things like Brooks saddles or fixed gear you just have to try to find out....

Fixed, Brooks, Moustache. (grin)

The front wheel is raised and spinning for slightly kooky "speedblend" effect and almost irrational saddle angle.

http://static.flickr.com/28/89390896_31cee195f8.jpg

I really should have a bit shorter stem since the frame is too big (mostly long) for me.

It's been recently fendered, and will soon have a rear rack. Gearing is 52/17 right now and will drop down to 42/17 for a Gainesville - St Augustine trip a few of us will be taking in a couple weekends.

The bars are spectacular for fixed/non-track purposes, and this bike will eventually become a fixed commuter and light/flat tourer.



Also does track! = )

http://static.flickr.com/38/84022461_ca2d3d26ac.jpg

Fixed, Brooks, Moustache. (grin)

I have a bike that fits that description also...:)
I use this bike to get away from the family for a few hours.....

lovely bikes!

I recently bought a Bianchi Avenue hybrid as a commuter. It came with mountain bike bars that I found very painful for longer rides, so I replaced the bars with a Nitto handlebar called the "All Rounder" which can be flipped to provide either a slight rise(3-speed style) or drop (moustache style).

With grip tape on the rounds parts, I find these bars provide lots of hand positions. Very useful on trips longer than 10 miles!

One of the problems I found is that these bars aren't easy to find. I found a close match at Rivendell (the Albatross) and eventually bought these off an eBay shop called Ben's Bicycle.

JCM, if the mustache bars don't work out for you, try a trekking bar (Nashbar). I just installed this bar on my Marin hybrid and love it. After two ride of 20, 35 miles, these bars are very comfortable with multiple hand positions. They can be found at Nashbar (do the search for trekking bars) and on sale for $15.00 too. My Marin had the flat bars and Shimano rapid fire shifters and everything fit perfectly. I put on new grips and gel taped the bars...very comfortable. I will snap a pic and post for you. Good luck to you.

i can verify the midge bar's wonderfullness. i haven't toured with it yet, but i fully plan to. i toured on my moustache bars, and i find that even on day-rides the midge bars are better for me.

i really really missed having the flat section next to the stem. midge bars are a great inbetween for those who kinda like moustaches, and kinda like drop bars.

http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/811/todayi4it.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/240/midges2km.jpg

That bike makes me happy.


Those bars like pretty sweet too....

thanks. makes me happy too, on a regular basis.

From when I was trying it out...

http://static.flickr.com/36/85067187_71c7c54568.jpg

The aerobars don't quite fit onto the thick part of the moustaches, so they're kinda wedged into place by the little Spinaci arms.

I wish I had the kind of spare time this picture implies. Man.



http://static.flickr.com/6/85066397_d406f8d425.jpg

i can verify the midge bar's wonderfullness. i haven't toured with it yet, but i fully plan to. i toured on my moustache bars, and i find that even on day-rides the midge bars are better for me.

Nice setup on that bike...:)
I have the original WTB dirt drop bar but they are grossly wide and my bar end shifters stick out and seem vulnerable to damage. How wide are your bars between the outer ends?

54 cm I think. Miiiiight be 52? One of those...


Crazy wide, though.

What's the width on the midge bars? I would freakin love to be get a small basket or something up there, just ain't possible with the moustaches.

What's the width on the midge bars? I would freakin love to be get a small basket or something up there, just ain't possible with the moustaches.

According to On-One's website, the width at the ends is 58 cm, the tops are 37.5 cm wide. the ends flare out 113 deg.

If you like moustaches and just want a little cockpit space or want a better "inner" hand position, check out the On-One Mungo.

How wide are your bars between the outer ends?

the first thing i did when i got them was compare the width to the moustache bars that i was replacing. they're really only about an inch wider, and the flares make for a really comfortable hand position. the drop is shallow enough that you can spend a lot of time there.

still, i can see how the flared ends would make bar end shifters vulnerable. if i ever do gears, it'll probably be a 1x5 or 1x7 with a single downtube shifter. then i can mount a bell on the other downtube boss, momovelo style.

When I first started looking into the Midges as a possibility, I e-mailed one of their most vocal supporters - Matt Chester. He suggested using Kelly Take-Offs to keep the shifters out of harm's way, or pivoting the barcons so at least when their facing down, they also face more inward toward the centerline of the bike. The Kellys just seem to awkward to me, but then again, I've never used them. If the bike isn't going to see too much rough stuff, using downtube shifters, as ink suggests, would be great.

if i ever do gears, it'll probably be a 1x5 or 1x7 with a single downtube shifter. then i can mount a bell on the other downtube boss, momovelo style.I just recently busted that style myself, with a 42 tooth chainring up front, and an 8-speed cassette on back. The bell looks super sharp, especially with the effect the moustaches give it. Looks like a Wright bros. bike or something.

http://static.flickr.com/6/85066397_d406f8d425.jpg



You might want to cap the ends of the aerobars. The edges are kind of sharp and metal is strong. In an accident, the two openings could punch perfect little donut-holes through flesh!

But they make such a pleasant whistling sound!! (grin)


I'm actually picking up some popped corks (red wine a'course) from a local place this coming Saturday. I'd wrap em, but I'm lazy. Kinda.

I wished I never saw the post on Midge Bars. I have been pretty happy w/ my drop bars but, like most riders, seldom ride in the drops. The Midge Bars look like a great idea so much that I just ordered some.

I now have way too much to think about! I'm giving the drops a good six hundred miles to see if I warm to them. That should take me to about early March. Since i ride fairly upright, I am switching to an adjustable stem to raise things up. Test in Progress. Amazing stuff, here. :)

Go for it with the Brooks67. I got one several months ago and just love it. Am 53, too heavy to be riding as far as I do, and do at least one 30-40 mile ride every week with shorter during during the week.

Go for it with the Brooks67. I got one several months ago and just love it. Am 53, too heavy to be riding as far as I do, and do at least one 30-40 mile ride every week with shorter during during the week.

Yes, the B-67 is a no-brainer for me. Right now I've put my B-73 :eek: on the 520 and managed to raise the drops up to a fair extent. I can be fairly comfortable on the tops and the hoods, but 'fairly' ain't gonna cut it over a century. I ride about 120 miles/week right now but in March I intend to ride centuries every week-end til the Seattle to Portland Classic. I took a good look at the seat post. It has a somewhat longer 'set-back' to it. Tomorrow I'll switch that post with the 830 so the seat will be forward a little more. That should help some. More testing....

ICM: This is off the subject, but how do you like the Trek 520? My local LBS sells Trek and Fuji, and he is recommending I go with Fuji touring bike because it's a few hundred less and just as good for touring. I know the Trek 520 has been around for a while and is a proven machine.

Exactly my experience. This bike was a great commuter but grabbing those bars for 6 hours at a time was another story.....
I've since built up a LHT with drop bars...


Fixer, what kind of stem are you using? If Nitto show the size please. I want a short stem for some moustache bars. I need help selecting a stem.

To be installed on Surly Cross Check
Thanks, :)

Fixer, what kind of stem are you using? If Nitto show the size please. I want a short stem for some moustache bars. I need help selecting a stem.

To be installed on Surly Cross Check
Thanks, :)

It's the Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem in 60mm reach.

i think that the general rule of thumb with moustaches is to pick a stem about 40-60mm shorter than the one that you use with drop bars.

this is because the favored hand position for cruising on the moustaches is the "forward" spot, near where you mount the levers.

I second the Midge. Awesome bars for both road and offroad riding.

ICM: This is off the subject, but how do you like the Trek 520? My local LBS sells Trek and Fuji, and he is recommending I go with Fuji touring bike because it's a few hundred less and just as good for touring. I know the Trek 520 has been around for a while and is a proven machine.

Sorry for the delayed response.
So far, I love it. But understand that I have up til now, ridden either an English 3-speed or the old Trek I have listed in my signature - which I think is a great battlebike. The 520 is 10 pounds lighter than the 830 and 17 pounds lighter than the Mercury! It's been like working out with a medicine ball.

As to overall quality? I think it's an excellent bike. Probably one of the best you can get short of custom. This particular one has some upgrades and extras that didn't come on the original '98's. It's mint, it's fully dressed-out and I was happy to give $550 for it. I read that they are pretty pricey now, around $1,100, I think. I'm sure if you walk in with cash, it would make a difference.

I feel I got lucky because there doesn't seem to be alot of 520's on the used market - especially with all the goodies mine has on it. There is a 520 on the local Craigslist for $500. It's a 2003 but has nothing but a rear rack as far asI can remember - no fenders or front racks, upgrade stem, bars, saddle, tires, etc. I'm pretty happy right now.

Comparisons? Well, I don't know about the Fuji. It's probably very nice. Let me say that I would rather compare cars: My Trek 830 is a Jeep - not a Barbie Jeep from Chrysler - a real old school AMC CJ-5. Very rugged but comfort/fit set up for road use. It levels hills with the Ovaltec chainrings but is not fast. The 520 is like a Mercedes Benz 500SEL sedan but not like a Ferrari or Porsche. Does that help?

It's the quietest bike I've ever ridden or been around. A real sneaker. I'm past the dogs before they know it. :D That may only be due to proper adjustment because my old Trek is also very quiet. Several of my clubbies' bikes are really clunky sounding but are nonetheless high-quality bikes. Clunk is probably not the right word - they just make noise. Seems they're always talking about changing this or that. All I will change are comfort/fit items.

As you know from this thread, I'm personalizing as I go. I have 225 miles on the bike over the past 3 days. More than that since I bought it a couple of weeks ago. I consider it to be fast on the flats for a touring rig. Maybe a bit steep for hills, but I'm very strong so I probably will leave it alone. All the great responses have me bedazzled as to h'bars at this point, so I'm going to stay with the 44cm drops for awhile and get a taller stem that will adjust to bring 'em back a bit. I'm almost there.

Damned Midges! Those guys got to me on that one! Hmmmm...I could still use the barcons and the levers. The drop isn't very far.... could be raised to insignifigant... Interesting....