Downtube Review -- Issues/Failures

[Mr_Super_Socks]

First let me mention that I bought a downtube a few months back to replace my commuting bike. I have been very pleased with it and even fitted a homebrew lighting system. I frequently tow a trailer and I ride every day regardless of weather. I have had two issues and one "failure."

1) The failure was corrosion/freezing brake and shifter wires/housings. This winter the shifting and braking starting degrading rapidly. If the weather ever got near freezing, the gd cables became almost unusably stiff. This is not unheard of - i have experienced this on other bike, but usually at much colder temps, and it could usually be corrected with lube/wd-40 squirted into the cable housing. That didn't work at all. I was never happy with the crappy sunrace gripshifter anyway, but as a result of the increased tension on the cables, the shifter unit actually just broke when I tried to make an upshift one morning. And when I say it broke, it literally came apart into three pieces on the bar. The happy ending is that I had a shimano 8 spd grip shifter with stainless cable that I installed and the whole bike is like a new (and better) machine. when I pulled out the old cable from the housing, it was badly corroded. Don't know what kind of material that cable's made of, but I have never seen one go south that quickly or that severely. I highly recommend a shifter/cable upgrade. brake cables, too. and by the way, with the new shifter and cables, freezing temps no longer incapacitate the drivetrain.

2) I also find that every time the temp gets near freezing, my headset stiffens up dramatically. This is almost certainly because whatever grease is in there is super, extremely crappy and has a very narrow functional temperature range. I have never encountered this before and only even heard of such a thing in ice-biking in the tundra. This is not a functionality issue, and re-building the headset is no small task, so I have decided to live with this for the time being.

3) Finally, my bottom bracket has developed noticeable play. I will be replacing it this weekend. This happened after about 3.5 months of riding - very poor indeed. Anyone know what size bottom bracket I need to buy? ;)

Admittedly, this bike gets hard use (abuse?) from me, but I have abused other bikes equally with better results. I am still very happy with the bike, but just wanted to update my review of the bike because even though it's much less expensive than it's competitors, there is a reason. (Oh - it still rides great and the frame is rock solid. great bike, cheap as turd components.)

[Tomaso]

Where's Yan when you need him.....

[Rincewind8]

3) Finally, my bottom bracket has developed noticeable play. I will be replacing it this weekend. This happened after about 3.5 months of riding - very poor indeed. Anyone know what size bottom bracket I need to buy? ;)


I believe I put a 113X68 sealed bottom bracket in there, but I will measure the old one and post again.

[james_swift]

It's obvious Downtube put price above quality. Compare to the entry-level Dahon Boardwalk: for $299 you get no suspension, no bar ends, no adjustable stempost, no free carrying bag. Dahon is a bigger, more established company, and even they themselves can't put together a fully suspended bike for $269, let alone a non-suspended 7sp bike for $269!

I'd imagine the ideal Downtube customer would be someone who doesn't mind doing his own maintenance and upgrades, cuz at $269, there's not a whole lot of room for quality componentry. But look on the bright-side, at only $269, there might be enough cash left-over for upgrades.

I predict the next compnent to go bad on your Downtube would be the rear Quando hub. My Swift has a rear Quando hub, and after almost 1,000 miles, the freehub engagement mechanism has developed a mind of it's own. Cheap components suck. :D

[Tomaso]

I agree with you, James. You can't ecpect a 300 dollar bike to be 'the best quality bike'. If that would be the case, Dahon, BF, and other Folder-Manufacturers would build an sell all of their bikes at this price. And Downtube wouldn't stand a chance selling their bikes to the public.

I would never consider buying a full-suspencion bike for 300 Dollar, that's what I call a 'supermarket-bike' (step into a supermarket and you'll find lots of MTB's at this price, even folders, and how long will it last?)

Still 300 bucks isn't a lot of money for a folder, and DT has lots of happy customers, so if people wanna buy a DT, I can understand.

[downtube]

Where's Yan when you need him.....

Just flew back to Philly yesterday...sorry to take a day off :)

Thanks,
Yan

[downtube]

First let me mention that I bought a downtube a few months back to replace my commuting bike. I have been very pleased with it and even fitted a homebrew lighting system. I frequently tow a trailer and I ride every day regardless of weather. I have had two issues and one "failure."

1) The failure was corrosion/freezing brake and shifter wires/housings. This winter the shifting and braking starting degrading rapidly. If the weather ever got near freezing, the gd cables became almost unusably stiff. This is not unheard of - i have experienced this on other bike, but usually at much colder temps, and it could usually be corrected with lube/wd-40 squirted into the cable housing. That didn't work at all. I was never happy with the crappy sunrace gripshifter anyway, but as a result of the increased tension on the cables, the shifter unit actually just broke when I tried to make an upshift one morning. And when I say it broke, it literally came apart into three pieces on the bar. The happy ending is that I had a shimano 8 spd grip shifter with stainless cable that I installed and the whole bike is like a new (and better) machine. when I pulled out the old cable from the housing, it was badly corroded. Don't know what kind of material that cable's made of, but I have never seen one go south that quickly or that severely. I highly recommend a shifter/cable upgrade. brake cables, too. and by the way, with the new shifter and cables, freezing temps no longer incapacitate the drivetrain.

2) I also find that every time the temp gets near freezing, my headset stiffens up dramatically. This is almost certainly because whatever grease is in there is super, extremely crappy and has a very narrow functional temperature range. I have never encountered this before and only even heard of such a thing in ice-biking in the tundra. This is not a functionality issue, and re-building the headset is no small task, so I have decided to live with this for the time being.

3) Finally, my bottom bracket has developed noticeable play. I will be replacing it this weekend. This happened after about 3.5 months of riding - very poor indeed. Anyone know what size bottom bracket I need to buy? ;)

Admittedly, this bike gets hard use (abuse?) from me, but I have abused other bikes equally with better results. I am still very happy with the bike, but just wanted to update my review of the bike because even though it's much less expensive than it's competitors, there is a reason. (Oh - it still rides great and the frame is rock solid. great bike, cheap as turd components.)


Sorry about the problems!!! FYI the 2006 models have upgraded cables and housing. I also swapped the BB on all future 2006 shipments. Additionally, I will have the factory use a higher grade grease in the future.

email me your address and I will ship you a BB on Monday.

Thanks,
Yan

[folder fanatic]

"It's obvious Downtube put price above quality. Compare to the entry-level Dahon Boardwalk: for $299 you get no suspension, no bar ends, no adjustable stempost, no free carrying bag. Dahon is a bigger, more established company, and even they themselves can't put together a fully suspended bike for $269, let alone a non-suspended 7sp bike for $269!

I'd imagine the ideal Downtube customer would be someone who doesn't mind doing his own maintenance and upgrades, cuz at $269, there's not a whole lot of room for quality componentry. But look on the bright-side, at only $269, there might be enough cash left-over for upgrades." -James Swift

I agree with you, James. You can't ecpect a 300 dollar bike to be 'the best quality bike'. If that would be the case, Dahon, BF, and other Folder-Manufacturers would build an sell all of their bikes at this price. And Downtube wouldn't stand a chance selling their bikes to the public.

"I would never consider buying a full-suspencion bike for 300 Dollar, that's what I call a 'supermarket-bike' (step into a supermarket and you'll find lots of MTB's at this price, even folders, and how long will it last?)

Still 300 bucks isn't a lot of money for a folder, and DT has lots of happy customers, so if people wanna buy a DT, I can understand." -Tomaso

Both of you are getting off track here. The budget level folding bikes serve people who are not too interested in fancy ego enhancement machines. They simply want to have a basic machine without too many bells and whistles (high tech suspension) to complicate matters-especially when a simple solution-like a sprung saddle-would do nicely. Remember that eventually all alumimun components will wear out and you will have to replace them. Or customing and modification of certain components will improve a particular customer's experience on that bike more than trying to sell an overpriced bike that does not meet or even assist in riding performance for that individual.

Not all of us need or even want too much bike for what we use it for. Each bike should have room for modifying for basic requirements and exposures such as climate differences (extreme heat, cold or moisture) or meeting the needs of the indiviual rider (weight differences). You do not have to pay Bike Friday prices to meet a person's needs. Many people on this forum as well as other forums have address this themselves in their own ways.

[Mr_Super_Socks]

email me your address and I will ship you a BB on Monday.

Thanks,
Yan
:eek: !!! wow. Thanks, Yan. This guy is amazing. Like I said, I really love the bike and the idea that the guy running the company is this committed to dealing with issues related to his product is one of the most extraordinary instances of customer service I have ever encountered.

Like others have said, this is a good operation and a good value.

[Wavshrdr]

Only issue I have had so far is with cold temps. My BB is harder to turn and so are the handlebars.

[stargazer48]

I predict the next compnent to go bad on your Downtube would be the rear Quando hub. My Swift has a rear Quando hub, and after almost 1,000 miles, the freehub engagement mechanism has developed a mind of it's own. Cheap components suck. :D

Do you mind telling me what it is doing?
I am planning to buy the Swift which will come with the Quando rear hub and an 8 external derailleur (not a DD), is it advisable to upgrade to a better hub and what would that be?. When I begin touring, I can easily do 1000 in a month. I have a 30 year old bike, so I still use a 5 speed freewheel. I have never held a freehub and cassette.

SG

[stargazer48]

Only issue I have had so far is with cold temps. My BB is harder to turn and so are the handlebars.

Sound like it might be a good idea to repack the BB and headset?

Sounds like your paying 70% for the frame and only 30% for everything else. :(

SG

[v1nce]

A pity to hear about some (minor and major) problems with the DT.

A real Joy to hear how Yan is handling this, now that is speed and service!
I seems like almost all the issues are a thing of the past on the newer models and i very much appreciate this extremely swift (no pun intended) action, is also of a quality and speed i have never encountered at all the 50 or more LBS i have patronized.

But to put the failures in perspective, to my knowledge untill about 4 years ago Dahon was plagued my a lot of similair small problems and some larger ones resulting from poor design. I took some time for them to get themselves in gear and remedy this. Glad to hear that Yan is doing it at hyperspeed by comparison.

About the BB, are you sure it needs replacement?! It is quite normal for new components/any bearing assembly to develop some play and need readjustment when they are brand new.. Maybe all it needs is a little 5 minute tweaking job....

[Mr_Super_Socks]

About the BB, are you sure it needs replacement?! It is quite normal for new components/any bearing assembly to develop some play and need readjustment when they are brand new.. Maybe all it needs is a little 5 minute tweaking job....
probably true, but there's no way to adjust a sealed cartridge bottom bracket.

[Dahon.Steve]

:eek: !!! wow. Thanks, Yan. This guy is amazing.

Agreed.

This guy is amazing.

[v1nce]

Ah,.. my bad, i missed the part about sealed cartridge (i am kinda old school in my component selection..) :)

Nice that you are getting a new one. What was the brand and model of the old? That way i can avoid that one.

[downtube]

probably true, but there's no way to adjust a sealed cartridge bottom bracket.

Just got back in SC. FYI it is not a cartridge BB. I assumed you adjusted it and continued to have issues.

Please try the following:

Loosen the lockring (on the left side of the bottom bracket, opposite
the drivetrain side) by turning it counterclockwise with a lockring spanner,
such as the Parks HCW5. Then turn the BB cup with a 17mm wrench or
cresent wrench clockwise to remove end play or counterclockwise to
loosen the spindle then hold in position while retightening the lockring.
Check adjustment at this point and repeat proceedure as necessary to
acheive correct adjustment. Do not adjust fixed cup on right side of the
bottom bracket. Do not overtighten!

Thanks,
Yan

[hbob]

I have both a FS and Regular model. If I was to upgrade shifter and derailleur, what exact models would you recommend? What are other upgrades you would recommend to someone buying this bike and being an occasional rider (up to 25 miles a week).
HBob

[downtube]

I have both a FS and Regular model. If I was to upgrade shifter and derailleur, what exact models would you recommend? What are other upgrades you would recommend to someone buying this bike and being an occasional rider (up to 25 miles a week).
HBob

I like the Sunrace components, I would not upgrade them.

My top list of upgrades would be:
#1 Adjustable angle stem for comfort. This will improve shifting by helping the cable routing.
#2 Shimano clipless and toe clip pedals in one....I think 300 series.
#3 Kevlar cables and better housing
#4 ISIS BB and cranks
#5 Sealed cartridge bearing headset.
#6 Sigma Sport Computer...they are cheap and good!
#7 Planet Bike Lights

I think the stem is the biggest upgrade.

Thanks,
Yan

[Mr_Super_Socks]

I have both a FS and Regular model. If I was to upgrade shifter and derailleur, what exact models would you recommend? What are other upgrades you would recommend to someone buying this bike and being an occasional rider (up to 25 miles a week).
HBob

The derailleur is pretty solid - I wouldn't mess with that - maybe a tad heavy, but good. I'd go with cables, housing and just about any other grip shifter or click-shifter you can find. I put on a shimano revo twist shifter which works great. If you really wanted to "upgrade" I would go with the SRAM 1:1 stuff - it's really impressive, especially when you get to the x.9 level.

I'd also re-pack or replace the headset and the BB. Cranks would be a great, but fairly expensive, upgrade.

[hbob]

I am going to be putting my two Downtubes (one FS and one Standard) on a sailboat
where they will be exposed to marine salt environment. I notice I am already getting rust
components just in the garage, mostly bolts and the handlebar stem. What would you do to help
the bike in a marine environment? I assume that I would swap cables. Should
I repack the bearings and how do I do that? My experience with a Chinese boat trailer I
bought is that the bearings and grease were very poor.
HBob

[Wavshrdr]

I am going to be putting my two Downtubes (one FS and one Standard) on a sailboat
where they will be exposed to marine salt environment. I notice I am already getting rust
components just in the garage, mostly bolts and the handlebar stem. What would you do to help
the bike in a marine environment? I assume that I would swap cables. Should
I repack the bearings and how do I do that? My experience with a Chinese boat trailer I
bought is that the bearings and grease were very poor.
HBob

With the exception of replacing all screws with stainless steel, I'd shot down must everything with something like the heavier (waxier) LPS line of lubricants or Boeshield. That will help quite a bit. OBVIOUSLY don't get it on the braking surfaces and be careful to limit overspray in that area. Of course keep it off the pads as well. I would recommend a cover of sorts as well or a bag to keep direct spray off them. Also if you have time to polish surfaces they are more resistant to corrosion. You could always try putting different lubricants/grease where possible. I bought 2 DTs for my usage. 1 is currently in Florida near the Gulf. So far I haven't seen any major issues with it. My mom uses it and it sets in a car port but very near the water. I sprayed it down with Boeshield before I left her with it. So far it seems to be working.

[jasong]

I like the Sunrace components, I would not upgrade them.

My top list of upgrades would be:


I think we should all realize how you suggesting upgrades for your own bike design is a great testament to your honesty in this design. You're aware of the weaknesses and strengths and are willing to share this with us. It's really great to see your desire to be involved with our experience with the Downtubes.

[spambait11]

But if a *few* suggestions are to upgrade a huge part of the drive train (BB, cranks, etc.), cables/housing, and headset, he might as well sell framesets.

[downtube]

But if a *few* suggestions are to upgrade a huge part of the drive train (BB, cranks, etc.), cables/housing, and headset, he might as well sell framesets.

Is there an unwritten rule that all my quotes must be taken out of context?

FYI I had a Ksyrium SL wheelset (MSRP $850) on my road bike that I recently upgraded to Topolinos. NOTE this does not imply anything is bad about Mavic or Ksyrium wheels.

Thanks,
Yan

[downtube]

But if a *few* suggestions are to upgrade a huge part of the drive train (BB, cranks, etc.), cables/housing, and headset, he might as well sell framesets.

Additionally, please note our 2006 line has the following upgrades: Kalloy Uno angle adjustable stem (with removable faceplate), higher quality cables and housing, and upgraded cranks and BB on all future 2006 bikes.

Thanks,
Yan

[v1nce]

Yan does and can speak for himself but i too think there is some misinterpretation going on of his statements or what they might imply!

The DT is the cheapest/best value folder out there, suggesting that a few (i think Yan meant possible!) valuable upgrades 'could!' be made does not mean the complete bike is 'bad' or 'weak' or will remain so if the upgrades are not made!

Nor is DT or any manufacturer under any obligation to produce frames only! I would like it if more folder manufacturers did, but it is their choice. Maybe Yan will, maybe he won't i am sure he would have good reasons (his own) for either choice.

Also it may we wise to keep in mind that although Breezer (recently linked too: http://www.breezerbikes.com/CatDetails.cfm?ProdID=45&category=6) for example has a frame only option (very similair frame to DT) for $ 235, no bag, no drivetrain, no BB, no headset etc etc, comes only with frame, fork, seatpost, stem and handlebars.

Compare that with the DT's which all feature all the parts as well as front suspension,.. the cheaper/older models almost cost the same complete! So i know having excess parts is not always appreciated by people but one could also buy a cheaper DT, replace parts as one goes and sell or give away the other parts and you'd still be off very cheap/much cheaper if you made some sales and got to keep the bag and such.

At the end of day if one wants everything near perfect or top notch quality or suitable for all environments one should probably look at spending double or getting a custom bike such as BF. But then of course a guy like me could come along who could say (and does say ha ha!) that BF needs to upgrade their folding capability/sell frame only options! ;)

It is all a matter of perspective, needs and wants...

Just my 0.02 cts, feel free to ignore/disagree of course.

[spambait11]

Additionally, please note our 2006 line has the following upgrades: Kalloy Uno angle adjustable stem (with removable faceplate), higher quality cables and housing, and upgraded cranks and BB on all future 2006 bikes.

Thanks,
Yan
The updates are good to note. Glad you addressed what you thought could be addressed from earlier models.

Hm. I just thought with such upgrades as recommended, a frameset would be a great option for someone who just wanted to make upgrades directly. I only mentioned it because I noted from your web site that you do sell framesets, the "Basso Diamante Frame & Fork" for example. Sorry you thought I was taking you out of context.

[spambait11]

FYI I had a Ksyrium SL wheelset (MSRP $850) on my road bike that I recently upgraded to Topolinos.
What the hell are those?
Do they come in ETRTO 406?

[v1nce]

@ Spambait, very doubtfull ha ha, those are some seriously high end wheels i think.

Chk: http://www.topolinotech.com/

[hbob]

Yan et al,
If I was to upgrade a few things, the cables, adjustable stem and maybe BB and cranks, where would I get them? I am in the country, not near a shop, and would do a few things myself? Will Downtube be selling
those parts for the folders anytime or can you recommend another place.
Thanks, Hbob

[downtube]

Yan et al,
If I was to upgrade a few things, the cables, adjustable stem and maybe BB and cranks, where would I get them? I am in the country, not near a shop, and would do a few things myself? Will Downtube be selling
those parts for the folders anytime or can you recommend another place.
Thanks, Hbob

Hbob,

We have had amazing sales growth this year (about 300% growth in sales volume). I hate to make a mistake with your order due to our growing pains hence I would encourage you to try to use Performance bike or Nashbar. However, I will happily help you if the bigger guys can't help.

FYI The best upgrades from 2005 would be
1. 90mm adjustable angle stem....I like Kalloy Uno as we did in 2006.
2. Higher quality brake and shifter cables (plus housing)....I like Jagwire
3. Shimano platform and clipless pedals...all in one.
4. Planet Bike spot and spot 3 lights

Thanks,
Yan

[downtube]

The updates are good to note. Glad you addressed what you thought could be addressed from earlier models.

Hm. I just thought with such upgrades as recommended, a frameset would be a great option for someone who just wanted to make upgrades directly. I only mentioned it because I noted from your web site that you do sell framesets, the "Basso Diamante Frame & Fork" for example. Sorry you thought I was taking you out of context.

Thanks for the idea, we may sell some framesets in 2007.

Thanks again,
Yan

[hbob]

Thanks much for the recommendations Yan. I love the bikes we bought. In fact I have
not been tempted to go back to my full size bike at all.
HBob

[Wavshrdr]

Thanks much for the recommendations Yan. I love the bikes we bought. In fact I have
not been tempted to go back to my full size bike at all.
HBob

Good folders can make you forget the need for more conventional bikes. I rarely ride mine anymore even though I have some pretty nice "normal" bikes. The DT is a good bike for the money. Once you get it dialed in it is a pretty good performer.

[hbob]

Yan, I am having trouble finding someone who sells the Kalloy Uno adjustbable stem online. I have found one or two in black finish but not like the one you have on the 2006 model. Any ideas
where to find one? And... do I put it on my stem tube or cut it off (the top angle portion) or replace with straight tube?
HBob

[v1nce]

I actually sold my full sized that i had been tweaking for years. Never missed it once yet.. I also know that if ever i craved a full size i could get one cheap and quick, so i never worry about this. Not too likely i will want a full size in the near future though.

[Mr_Super_Socks]

Yan, I am having trouble finding someone who sells the Kalloy Uno adjustbable stem online. I have found one or two in black finish but not like the one you have on the 2006 model. Any ideas
where to find one?

Try Gaerlan - looks like they've got it.
http://www.gaerlan.com/bikeparts/parts/stem/stems.html

[hbob]

Supersocks, Thanks for the link. I need a straight tube to fit in the clamp and a adjustable stem that fits on
the end of that. I would probably be using a seat tube with the stem clamped on it.

[downtube]

Supersocks, Thanks for the link. I need a straight tube to fit in the clamp and a adjustable stem that fits on
the end of that. I would probably be using a seat tube with the stem clamped on it.

Your best bet might be a ProMax Adjustable Angle Stem if you can find one (MSRP $25ish). I found a Pyrmaid at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000AO5IOE/sr=1-5/qid=1139880093/ref=sr_1_5/002-5589192-0356039?%5Fencoding=UTF8&n=3404971&s=sporting-goods&v=glance

FYI mr_super_socks used a quill adjustable stem see http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=148923&highlight=Downtube
Thanks,
Yan

[hbob]

[QUOTE=downtube]Your best bet might be a ProMax Adjustable Angle Stem if you can find one (MSRP $25ish). I found a Pyrmaid at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000AO5IOE/sr=1-5/qid=1139880093/ref=sr_1_5/002-5589192-0356039?%5Fencoding=UTF8&n=3404971&s=sporting-goods&v=glance

Yan,
thanks for the links I found a few stems both Pro Max and others. I am 6 feet tall and was wondering if
I might be OK with a longer stem (110 mm I believe) I am also wondering how to attach. Do I cut off current tube below the bend or should I purchase a new alloy tube? Is the straight tube the same as a seat tube
or can you recommend where to buy straight tube for the setup? I am not finding that on the web.

I encourage you to sell upgrade items on the site, especially as you get more bikes out there.
HBob

[downtube]

[QUOTE=downtube]Your best bet might be a ProMax Adjustable Angle Stem if you can find one (MSRP $25ish). I found a Pyrmaid at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000AO5IOE/sr=1-5/qid=1139880093/ref=sr_1_5/002-5589192-0356039?%5Fencoding=UTF8&n=3404971&s=sporting-goods&v=glance

Yan,
thanks for the links I found a few stems both Pro Max and others. I am 6 feet tall and was wondering if
I might be OK with a longer stem (110 mm I believe) I am also wondering how to attach. Do I cut off current tube below the bend or should I purchase a new alloy tube? Is the straight tube the same as a seat tube
or can you recommend where to buy straight tube for the setup? I am not finding that on the web.

I encourage you to sell upgrade items on the site, especially as you get more bikes out there.
HBob

Hbob,

I went with 90mm, I'd recommend shorter rather than longer. FYI you can rotate the bottom stem 180 degrees to push the handlebar further away.

Additionally, you can rotate the top Ahead stem 180 degrees so it is pointing toward you, while the handlebar is attaches as usual. This is used by people with long legs/shorts arms.

You can also flipflop the stem to get a negative angle (not recommended and not useful in this application)

I wanted to point out that you have several points of adjustability.

I would not go with a quill stem, however it is an interesting option to consider. I would go with an alloy tube and Ahead stem, should be lighter than a quill.

Thanks,
Yan

[hbob]

Yan,
Any tips on where to buy the 1 1/8" alloy tube? I don't see any straight tubes without
seat clamp at top or handlebar clamp, as comes with the bike.
HBob

[juan162]

Yan,
Any tips on where to buy the 1 1/8" alloy tube? I don't see any straight tubes without
seat clamp at top or handlebar clamp, as comes with the bike.
HBob
If you have a small airfield near you, you might be able to get some from there. If you have an LBS that does welding and brazeons and other more involved work, they might have some steel tubing around from cannibalized bikes that they could cut and give to you,
juan162

[AWOL]

Also it may we wise to keep in mind that although Breezer (recently linked too: http://www.breezerbikes.com/CatDetails.cfm?ProdID=45&category=6) for example has a frame only option (very similair frame to DT)

Probably out of the same factory in China.

Those elastomer shocks scare me.

[downtube]

Yan,
Any tips on where to buy the 1 1/8" alloy tube? I don't see any straight tubes without
seat clamp at top or handlebar clamp, as comes with the bike.
HBob

HBob,

I don't know where to a buy tube locally, however you will need a pipe cutter to get it the right size.....unless you are very lucky.

Thanks,
Yan

[hbob]

The derailleur is pretty solid - I wouldn't mess with that - maybe a tad heavy, but good. I'd go with cables, housing and just about any other grip shifter or click-shifter you can find. I put on a shimano revo twist shifter which works great. If you really wanted to "upgrade" I would go with the SRAM 1:1 stuff - it's really impressive, especially when you get to the x.9 level.

I'd also re-pack or replace the headset and the BB. Cranks would be a great, but fairly expensive, upgrade.

I am upgrading the shifter on one of my DT's (the one I am not putting the Nexus hub on). Will any
8sp grip shift do? My options are SRAM and Shimano. Can either be adjusted at the Sunrace 50 derailleur
to work? Thanks.
HBob

[downtube]

I am upgrading the shifter on one of my DT's (the one I am not putting the Nexus hub on). Will any
8sp grip shift do? My options are SRAM and Shimano. Can either be adjusted at the Sunrace 50 derailleur
to work? Thanks.
HBob

Any Shimano compatable 8sp shifter will work. No special adjustments are needed to get it to work...they are all compatable.

FYI most people have upgraded to a SRAM shifter.

Thanks,
Yan

[hbob]

Any Shimano compatable 8sp shifter will work. No special adjustments are needed to get it to work...they are all compatable.

FYI most people have upgraded to a SRAM shifter.

Thanks,
Yan
Do I need a 2:1 or 1:1 shifter? I know the SunRace is Shimano comaptible but want to make sure
if I go with SRAM I get the correct shifter.
Thanks again Yan,
Hbob

[downtube]

Do I need a 2:1 or 1:1 shifter? I know the SunRace is Shimano comaptible but want to make sure
if I go with SRAM I get the correct shifter.
Thanks again Yan,
Hbob
Get a 2:1 shifter.

Thanks,
Yan