Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Tools for swapping fixed cog?

I've just bought a 1984 Trek 500 and Suzue Track wheel. I have stripped down the old bike into a fixed gear machine. Here is my problem: the track wheel came with a 14T cog and the smallest chainwheel I can fit on my 144BCD cranks is 42T (yes, there is a rare 41T chainwheel).

This is too tall of a gear for my geographic location and want to buy 15 and 16T cogs.

What tools (at a minimum) do I need to swap out the cogs. I've got a DuraAce lock ring, if that matters.

When I bought the bike, I planned to swap the chainring down to a 38T, but was surprised to find that the bolt circle is 144mm instead of 130. This is actually a better situation for stiffness i suppose, but now I need to buy tools to change the cog.

Thanks in advance.

Spotmatic,

I can't really provide an answer
but if you check out Sheldon Brown's site
he has tons of info on Fixies.
the link is: Sheldon Brown's Fixies (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed/index.html)
I have an old trek similiar vintage as yours, nice
frames.

Marty

Lotek:

Sheldon got me into this mess. :D

I haven't taken the fixie outside yet, she is on the trainer until I can get some daylight to ride in.

In the event that you haven't found this site, check it out

http://www.vintage-trek.com/

I was able to learn much about my new/old trek, before I stripped her naked.

The link to the Vintage Trek site is cool. I hadn't seen that before. I have a 1985 Trek 770 frame (the original race bike in HOT Raspberry Pink - believe me I took a lot of flak for that color). Great frame that was a wonderful road bike - it has since been repainted. A few years ago after getting a new bike I converted my Trek into a fixie too. I run a 39T on the front and a 16 or 17T cog on a wheel I built up.

I use a non-standard lockring and I take it off with a tap of a punch and a hammer. No damage is done if you are careful. Don't know if that will be different with a DA lockring. I then use a single Park chain-whop tool and remove the cog. Grease up the threads after cleaning off the dirt and install the other cog. Put the ring back on and tap it into place until VERY snug. Place the wheel back in the dropouts, pull the chain tight and tighten the quick-release or track nuts. I've changed my cogs numerous times and have never had problems. I commute on the bike all the time and love riding a fixie bike.

Here's one picture of my fixie.

Here's the whole bike with the repaint. Front brake only you'll notice.

So......

It sounds like I can get away with buying just a chain whip.
That would make my wife happy.

In the future, when I feel that I can get away with yet another bicycle-related purchase, what is the proper tool for removing the DuraAce Lockring?

Thanks for your help.

-MAtt

I built myself a fixie recently (old Panasonic 24" touring frame, bullhorn bars, old cyclotourist crank, and suzue hub), and I'm running a 54/16 combo on it, probably going to go to a 17 or 18 tooth cog for winter (I'm actually going to mount my old 700c studded tyres on it!). I ride the fixie mostly on flat terrain-and use other bikes for the hills.
Anyway, as far as my hub is concerned, all I need is one of those "collar tools" to pull the ring off (reverse threaded), and a chain whip for the cog. FWIW, I recently came into a collection of cogs, and I have a fairly large collection of D/A track cogs that probably fit.
As far as the 144 BCD rings-that is still a common size on track bikes. You can get rings in this size from Harris Cylery (in MA), as well as World Class Cycles (downstate NY). Being as how it is a track ring, gearing for climbing isn't something that would've been considered.

Yeah Sheldon can do that (get one into messes).
I've spent alot of time at Vintage-Trek, and have
traded e-mail with Skip a number of times. He has
a good list of serial numbers if you want to find out
about an old frame.
I have lusted after the rasberry 770 and the pink 760 for
a while now. . .

Marty

i agree

you may be able to use this method to avoid the chainwhip purchase: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/lance/lance.htm

did you really just necro a 6 year old thread.

He is the greatest man alive, why not?

get a Park Tool HCW-5 Double sided bottom bracket lockring hook spanner for 13.00. please don't try to remove and install a cog with a punch and a hammer. i doubt you'll get the cog as tight as it should be and you could damage your cog/hub/wheel to save a little money. Harris Cyclery also has a Chainwhip for 16.95...

get a Park Tool HCW-5 Double sided bottom bracket lockring hook spanner for 13.00. please don't try to remove and install a cog with a punch and a hammer. i doubt you'll get the cog as tight as it should be and you could damage your cog/hub/wheel to save a little money. Harris Cyclery also has a Chainwhip for 16.95...

Dude, I'd hope the OP has had his question answered after... SIX YEARS.

haha, while the thread is six years old, it still remains a valid question for others, it seems... though, there are probably at least twenty identical threads for each common issue.

a chain, frame, and lockring wrench like a park bb lockring wrench.

answers stay the same.

one:
http://www.benscycle.net/bmz_cache/1/11409981f4f1aec3a563c66caf2f90b5.image.150x112.JPG

two:
http://trailcentral.com/gallery/albums/2006_home_mech_tools/chainwhip.thumb.jpg

Really, just go to the lbs, ask them to do it, if they are cool, they'll show you how its done. If they won't, find a new lbs. You won't regret getting expert instructions. The last thing you want is stripped hub threads.

He is the greatest man alive, why not?

excellent point.

this was literally the oldest thread on the board.

I heard I have to put some kind of greese on the rear cog when I install it, does any one know what kind?

http://marcsmith.biz/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/zombie-psp.jpg

Any automotive or marine-grade grease will do. I usually use lithium grease.