Framebuilders - Painting

Wat do you guys use to pain your frames? I've just ordered an unpainted frame set. It should be finished by the end of March. I want to paint it myself.

I would like to paint it Army Green (Olive Drab) because I want to do some stealth camping.

Should I use automotive primer or can a $2 rattle can paint job do the trick?

olive drab is a good color to do yourself. I'd clean the finished frame with some Naval Jelly, then use automotive rattle cans. otherwise painting is a whole different animal. to get a top quality finish it takes top quality equipment, paint, & skill. there's also health issues involved. google: 'Isocyanates' for a quick 411

Why not just spray it with some oil or something and then roll it in the dirt? That's pretty stealth, although may I recommend you don't do this 'style' of camping in Quail season?

Why not just spray it with some oil or something and then roll it in the dirt? That's pretty stealth, although may I recommend you don't do this 'style' of camping in Quail season?

lol. Well at least deer season ended a couple weeks back. Also hunting lands are pretty well marked here in Alabama. Besides there are many risks in life. If you try to avoid all risk, then you'd do better to jump off a bridge.

funbun,

I'm glad you got a frameset. What did you end up getting?

If you do rattle can paint, and want a high(er) gloss finish, remember to wet sand between coats. It evens the layers out, and makes each subsequent layer smoother.

I ordered an Tour EZ Clone frameset from recycled recumbents. Not the Mach 2, just the original.

I'm not looking for a glossy. Olive Drab is the same thing as Army/Hunter's Green. I want it as dull as possible
so that it will blend well while stealth camping.

At any rate, how many coats of primer should I use? What brand should I use, etc.

I ordered an Tour EZ Clone frameset from recycled recumbents. Not the Mach 2, just the original.

I'm not looking for a glossy. Olive Drab is the same thing as Army/Hunter's Green. I want it as dull as possible
so that it will blend well while stealth camping.

At any rate, how many coats of primer should I use? What brand should I use, etc.
Primer will depend on what type paint you are using, but as a general rule, use the same brand primer as the topcoat you are using, and for a lighter color topcoat, use a light gray primer, for a darker topcoat, use the dark red. Paint is semi-transparent, and you WILL see artifacts thru the paint. Maybe not so much with a matte or flat finish paint. A flat finish paint should be really easy to rattle-can.

Good luck with your TE Clone. ADC knows what he is doing.

OK, here in a nutshell...
1) CLEAN the frame with wax & grease remover. Get inside the seat tube,BB etc. Use lots of paper towels!
2) SPRAY 2-3 good coats of rattle can primer. White if you use white, yellow or red color. Grey for most other colors. Black for purple, dk. green etc. (& duh, black)
NOTE; spray around the tube intersections first, then connect those areas by spraying the tubes.
3)SAND all the big divits, chunks and runs with 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper, using it wet. Finish sanding with wet 400 grit. Wipe off the frame with clean paper towels. Then wipe down thew frame with a DAMP washcloth. This will remove all the sanding dust. Wipe completly clean with paper towels.
4) USE A TACKCLOTH and gently wipe all the knerr* off the frame. *(those little unseen bits that make nasty little bumps in the paint!)
5) SPRAY SOME COLOR(S) Fade one color into another. (hold the can further away and spray lightly) Splatter some other colors you may have lying around. HAVE FUN HERE!
6) LET IT DRY overnight or two. If you have some little goobers, wet sand LIGHTLY w/600 or finer. CAREFUL...DON'T sand an area that has a fade, it will F it up!** Do the papertowel, washcloth, tackcloth thing before you clear.
7)SPRAY CLEAR! The real trick to a good clear coat is to have the paint all be wet at the same time. That means it should take between 4 & 7 minutes to SPRAY the whole frame. Spray at LEAST 3 coats. Check for dry areas carefully on the LAST coat. Let it dry.
NOTE; ratlle can paint should set for as long as possible before assembling. 2 weeks should do it!
I Know, I know........2 WEEKS??!!?? well...that's just the nature of the beast.
**if you have trouble on a fade area, leave it and finish with the clear. THEN sand the trouble spot(s) and reclear the whole thing. Let dry again.
BUILD. RIDE! ENJOY!!!!!
Dr.D

I'll vouch for the 2 weeks line. I've got some thumb prints in my paint around the rear drop outs and on the seat stays. :(

Oh and #8 on the above list should be: POST PICTURES! :D

Interesting. We have 2 slightly different views on what color primer to use based on the final color...

one says that "for a lighter color topcoat, use a light gray primer, for a darker topcoat, use the dark red." Another says to use "White (primer) if you use white, yellow or red color. Grey (primer) for most other colors. Black for purple, dk. green etc. (& duh, black)"

So for a rattlecan white top color, what color primer do you use? white primer or gray primer? And is there such a thing as a black primer?

Interesting. We have 2 slightly different views on what color primer to use based on the final color...

one says that "for a lighter color topcoat, use a light gray primer, for a darker topcoat, use the dark red." Another says to use "White (primer) if you use white, yellow or red color. Grey (primer) for most other colors. Black for purple, dk. green etc. (& duh, black)"

So for a rattlecan white top color, what color primer do you use? white primer or gray primer? And is there such a thing as a black primer?
Yes, PPG makes their DP (2 part epoxy)primer in BLACK, as well as white, lt. grey, green grey and red(which is kind of brick red)
For a white top color, use white primer and you will get the best coverage and "holidays" won't matter nearly as much.
Have fun & good luck! More Q's?, e me again (and again and again until you're satisfied you have all the info you need) Always glad to help.
Dr.D

I'll vouch for the 2 weeks line. I've got some thumb prints in my paint around the rear drop outs and on the seat stays. :(

Oh and #8 on the above list should be: POST PICTURES! :D
OK, here's a recent paint job; White PPG epoxy primer (DP48) Auto-Air Colors Sparklescent Mango on top of tubes, Sparklescent Tequila Yellow on sides of tubes and Sparklescent Electric Green on the bottom of the tubes and the back of the seat tube. Scales were done with Auto-Air Colors Deep Black. Then the whole thing was cleared with PPG DCU2042 clear (3 coats) It was dry enough to assemble the next day.
TOTAL TIME; 4 days. Cost of actual paint used; about $60*
*Unfortunetly the PPG materials come in quart sizes. Enough to primer & clear more than a dozen frames if you are using an HVLP detail gun. Heres the price of the stuff needed;
QT DP48 white primer...................$39.45
QT DP402LF primer catalyst...........$37.80
QT DT 870 Reducer (thinner).........$15.25*
QT DCU2024 Clear........................$49.95
1/2 Pint DCX61 catalyst for clear.....$27.95 *the DT870 can be used to reduce the clear as well.
The Auto-Air Colors are available in 4 oz jars; Sparklescent colors are $12-$15 (4 oz) & Deep Black is $6.25. A 4 oz jar is just about enough to paint a frame and I used an Iwata airbrush to apply all the colors & scales.
I haven't tried it, but I would bet that if you use rattle can primer and clear, you could still use the Auto-Air Color(s) and get a wonderful paint job. Heck, I may just have to grab one of the old frames out of the backyard and try it! Curiosity killed the the cat and all! But how will anybody know for sure untill SOMEBODY tries it!
And as you might have guessed by now, I tend to be long winded! Not to beat a dead horse, but when it comes to custom painting a bike all I can say is...
Been there, done that! Hope all my experience can help you, that's all.
Cheers,
Dr.D (King of psychosparkleprismaticultracandycolorpurple!!)