Touring - Titanium rack bolts, dumb idea?

Would it be a silly idea to replace my rack bolts with titanium ones?

This would be for a steel frame, so I don't believe there would be an issue with the titanium siezing like on an aluminum frame.-Do correct me if I'm mistaken.

Opinions?

Thanks!

This is so you can save how many grams on a loaded touring bike? If you insist, you should use some anti-seize on the fasteners.

i've thought about doing this for the corrosion factor. thats my favorite bit about titanium, because even "stainless" bolts get rusty once they're used a few times.

If you are replacing them them for cosmetic reasons (looks cool), or for psychological reasons, then you cannot put a value on the cost or benefits.

For looks, you could buy some cadium-style plated allen bolts at a Local Hobby Shop. I buy gold colored bolts with the deep allen socket head.

If you are replacing the bolts for a weight reduction, my opinion is that you would only be saving grains, and not grams, on three to four bolts.

Ti bolts are half the weight and half the strength of decent stainless steel allen bolts. Rack bolts can be heavily loaded and are the only bolts on a bike that ever shear. Don't do it.
You can use Ti bolts elswhere if you have cash to blow.
I confess to one Al bolt which fixes my front dynamo lamp to a steel bracket.

You would be better off using a titanium rack with stainless bolts, if weight is the issue.

Good quality stainless hardware with a little light oil stays rust free. Were you also thinking of replacing your fender and bottle cage bolts?

300 series stainless will not show surface rust, 400 series will only show very slight surface rust, and will not rust in the thread when installed. There is just slightly more ferrous material in the 400. Even with 400, there will never be enough rust to be any problems. CHenry is correct, a touch of oil will do the trick to avoid any surface rust if you are concerned. To tell which series you have you can do the magnet test, if a magnet sticks, it is 400, very slight or no magnetic attraction you have 300. (magnet attracts to ferrous content, which also slightly rusts).

Ti bolts are half the weight and half the strength of decent stainless steel allen bolts. Rack bolts can be heavily loaded and are the only bolts on a bike that ever shear. Don't do it.
You can use Ti bolts elswhere if you have cash to blow.
I confess to one Al bolt which fixes my front dynamo lamp to a steel bracket.

I was thinking titanium bolts would be stronger than steel, so I'd change them to help prevent shearing off.

My mistake, I'm very glad I asked.

And thanks all for the replies!

To tell which series you have you can do the magnet test, if a magnet sticks, it is 400, very slight or no magnetic attraction you have 300. (magnet attracts to ferrous content, which also slightly rusts).

The magnetic properties are determined by the crystaline structure of the steel (martensitic or austenitic). There is little difference in the iron content (both over 70%). Regular mild steel when heated red hot becomes non-magnetic.

You would be better off using a titanium rack with stainless bolts, if weight is the issue.

Good quality stainless hardware with a little light oil stays rust free. Were you also thinking of replacing your fender and bottle cage bolts?
If nothing else that will sure lighten your wallet. :) I saw a set of Ti Tire levers at our LBS, I swear that the card they were taped to weighed more than the levers.

Steve W.
Who has never been called a weight weenie.

I wouldn't particularly trust the stainless bolts. Chromed steel should be stornger. Anyone know how good the stainless rack bolts are.

I wouldn't particularly trust the stainless bolts. Chromed steel should be stornger. Anyone know how good the stainless rack bolts are.


-Or where to get a few of either? I seem to recall an online bike shop that had just about any small part you could possibly want.