Touring - Weight of your touring rig (unloaded)?

I'm thinking about a new ride and trying to decide how to think about weight. I'm not a weight weeny, but I don't want to handicap myself from the get go by buying a tank. I'm searched the manufacturers websites and most don't list weights for their touring bikes.

So, I'm curious how much your ride weights. By the time you take a well-made long wheel-base steel frame, add durable components, touring bars, Brooks saddle, etc., my sense is that most touring bikes weigh somewhere north of 25 pounds and probably closer to 30. What's your experience?

I just weighed my '05 Trek 520. As factory spec'd except for the following alterations: Brooks Team Pro saddle, OMM Red Rock rear rack, Crank Bros Quattro pedals, plus a Sigma Sport bike computer. Grand Total: 25.2 lbs.

Your estimate is pretty close. My older Trek 520, in local fighting trim with Blackburn Exped rear rack, seatpack, pump and Brooks saddle, weighs 28 lbs. That's how I ride it around a good part of the time and it feels fine to me. When I mount my Jandd Extreme front rack to complete my touring setup, the bike weighs in at 30lbs (that's why I leave it off most of the time).

I recently looked at a T800 Cannondale that was 26 lbs without any rack (03 model), and I believe that both the new T800 and Randonee are 27-28 lbs with factory rear racks. The Cannondale definitely feels a bit lighter than the Novara. As you imply, the only time it really matters is when you are using the bike unloaded, for sporting or commuting usage around town. Loaded up for a week trip I am between 250-260 lbs and the water weight alone varies by 5-6 lbs.

It all depends on if my f-a is on it or not. If not, unloaded and without bags, about 30#.

I refuse to give any more data.

The cannondale weighs 27 or 8 pounds?! An aluminum bike? I just have to ask why you would buy one.

My '82 Miyata weighs 29lbs with rack, computer, bottles, etc.

For touring, I look at strength before weight. Sure, a light bike is a good thing on a climb, but we're talking 5 lbs on a fully loaded (250lbs with gear and rider?) touring bike. 5 pounds is a really a low percentage of total weight.

However, you really don't want frames, forks, racks, etc breaking while you're out riding on a gravel road, 20 miles from nowhere.

So if a little extra weight buys some extra strength, I consider that a good thing.

Az

The cannondale weighs 27 or 8 pounds?! An aluminum bike? I just have to ask why you would buy one.
Because it is stiff as all get out, and I don't like flying down bumpy two lane roads and feeling my frame flexing. Or climbing out of the saddle and feeling my frame flexing. All of these are fully loaded scenarios of course. The fact that the bike is aluminum carries no more than a pound or two advantage weight-wise since it is a touring bike and still has a steel fork, heavy touring wheels, tires, drivetrain components, etc. The frame weight alone is a minimal factor in the overall weight of any bike.

Machak, complete with racks and Brooks saddle, but not panniers or bags of any sort, is 27 lbs.

My luggage usually weighs about 40 lbs.

I have no idea what my bike weighs! Should I? ;)

I think an interesting proposition would be to look at the weight of the bicycle in relation to the weight of the rider. For example, I weigh about 140. If my bike weighs 30 lbs then I would have a higher bike-to-rider factor (30/140=0.21) than a 200 lb person on my bike (theirs would be 200/30 which equals 0.15). For me to achieve the same ratio they have, I would need a much lighter (in this case, about 22lb) bike.

My '98 520 weighs 29-30lbs
Front pan racks, B-67, rear rack, fenders, steel North Road bars, kick stand.

My IF club racer with tubus racks front and rear but not panniers weighs 22 pounds.

I have no idea what my bike weighs! Should I? ;)

I think an interesting proposition would be to look at the weight of the bicycle in relation to the weight of the rider. For example, I weigh about 140. If my bike weighs 30 lbs then I would have a higher bike-to-rider factor (30/140=0.21) than a 200 lb person on my bike (theirs would be 200/30 which equals 0.15). For me to achieve the same ratio they have, I would need a much lighter (in this case, about 22lb) bike.


I've thought about this too, and my own personal comfort level is this

the combined total of bicycle weight and gear weight should be half my body weight (or less).

I have ridden with more (80-90 lbs), and it is possible to ride like that, but I find that very difficult to manage ... uncomfortable.

That's an interesting proposition Machka. I will do some math. :)

I use my Trek 7500Fx (Aluminun Hybrid with Cr-Mo fork) for touring and the basic bike weights 22.63 lbs. But add a heavier wheelset, Conti TT2000 tires, fenders and racks (F & R), pump and computer and that brings the weight up to 30.66 lbs.

I weighted the C-dale by standing on the scale with and without it in my arms and came up with 35 pounds for it. That is including the tubus racks front and rear, aero-bars, B-17, no water bottles. I love the ride, but think that at some point I want to see about ditching that 'headshok' stem and replacing it with a standard one. Didn't realize that it was such a clysdale of a bike. Either that or I might get something like the Nashbar frame and just transfer all the components over onto it it.

Steve W.

My Waterford 1900 AdventureCycle, a steel bike, weighs 29 pounds with front and rear rack and two water bottle cages, but no bottles. I weigh 185 pounds for a bike/rider ratio of .157.

awesome!

My bike weighs over well 40 lbs right now. But that's in winter, not touring, configuration. However, the difference is that the winter config has studded knobbies and no front rack, while the to-be touring config will have a front rack, but no studded knobbies.
In the end, I feel the weight will remain at about 42-43 lbs.

My LHT, weighing it by using the bathroom scale, weighs 36lbs.
Tubus Cargo rear, Nitto decked front (the one that Rivendell sells), CR-18 front laced to a Schmidt dynohub, 2 Lumotec lights, Minoura Spacegrip, Rhynolite rear with XT, Schwalbe Marathon XR's, adjustable stem (Zoom or Look, can't recall right now) Nashbar Trekking bar with double wrap cork/foam, Paul's Thumbies w/ Shimano Barcons, SKS fenders, 3 generic water bottle cages, speedo.
I don't do too many wheelies with it. :)

My Miyata 210 is about 32 lbs in touring trim, unloaded. That's wearing both racks, and might include a full water bottle (can't remember for sure, it's been awhile). Unloaded and minus the front rack, it's still about 30 lbs. I think it was about 28 when I bought it, and it seems that the weight has done nothing but creep upward since then! Doesn't matter, though - after all, it is a touring bike, and the lightest bike I've personally owned. That comes from it being the first nice bike I've ever owned. All in all, I don't think weight is a serious consideration for a touring bike. After, the idea is to put even more weight on the thing, and to carry it well. I don't think five pounds would matter much, one way or the other!

'86 Trek 620, B-17, front and rear racks, fenders, 32mm conti top touring tires: 32lbs.

I have two touring bikes. The Cannondale with rear rack, and light tires weighed 24 lb. The Bruce Gordon which is larger, has a lighting set-up, 700x38 tires, and is steel weighs 26 lb.

2006 Trek 520, stock rear rack, pump, seatpack, and waterbottles: 30lbs

My LHT with racks, pump and cages weighs 32lbs even. With all bags and water bottles, add 50lbs more.

My bike is roughly 25 pounds. I don't understand why it would be the same as that Trek 520 that weighed 25 pounds. I use a Tubus Fly rack that weighs 12 ounces.
My wheels/tires are 9 sp Durace/CXP33/Ruffy Tuffy tire. Definitely lighter than
than most touring rigs. Of course I don't do loaded touring, just the credit card variety. My frame is a Gunnar Sport which I assume weighs a little less than the 520. It certainly felt light when I bought it and picked it up. I have avoided heavy stuff. The pedals are Shimano A-520, which weigh 315 gr.

Burley has come out with a couple touring bikes. I would buy the frame, instead of either bike, I don't agree with their parts pick. But I liked them when I tried them. They have a short top tube, and just feel right in a way few bikes do. That's easy to feel, hard to describe unless you're a million years old and can remember the way bikes used to feel. Old school frames need to be bought a size larger typically, a good bike shop will see that you get the right size.

Anyway, you wil need to buy a frame and do the parts yourself. For your project,
the Burley touring frame is something to look at. Look at rims that weigh 450-500 grams. Nothing turns a bike into a tank faster than heavy rims and tires. How much do you weigh? You can use a tire like my 27c Ruffy Tuffy ( or the slightly heavier 32c Pasela) if the total weight isn't screamingly high.
Weigh a rack before you buy it. Cheap $25 racks like the Planet Bike work great and weigh much less than the needlessly heavy touring racks. You will find some contrary opinions, but I know of no rack failures. I used to use a dirt cheap Nashbar tubular rack, we had two. We beat on them for several years and they're
in the cellar only because I lost the mounting hardware. If I wanted a stronger rack I'd look the the Vega.
http://www.tubus.net/eng/produkte/hinterradtraeger/vega.php

Shimano road hubs are fine if total weight of you, bike and the gear doesn't go over 300 pounds. I like Ultegra and Colorado Cyclist can throw you together a 9 sp Ultegra/CXP33 wheelset for about $300. Trust me on this one, if I don't destroy it, nobody will. Watch the weight of the little stuff. The Ultegra BB is wrth if the extra $ if you go with a Shimano road drivetrain. A lot of touring guys go with Mtn cranks, and that makes a lot of sense.

I wrote a post yesterday about stuff I like
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=186005&page=2

A couple more things I like is the color yellow. I get Performance Elite road gloves in yellow. Seems to help dealing with traffic. I use this Performance blinky
because it is both bright and lite.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=19647&subcategory_ID=4322

I have toured by bike for over 30 years. I like it.

I weighted the C-dale by standing on the scale with and without it in my arms and came up with 35 pounds for it. That is including the tubus racks front and rear, aero-bars, B-17, no water bottles. I love the ride, but think that at some point I want to see about ditching that 'headshok' stem and replacing it with a standard one. Didn't realize that it was such a clysdale of a bike. Either that or I might get something like the Nashbar frame and just transfer all the components over onto it it.

Steve W.
Steve, your probably the only one that got a good weighing.

My Atala WC cyclocross bike converted to touring - fenders, rear rack, water bottle, pump, LOCK, handlebar bag, seat pack is 36 lbs on a bike scale. Size 62 cm though there's only a couple ounces different in frame sizes.

we are talking about a kilo or two for the bike but the most important weight is the loaded bike with water and one day of food .. my rule is --able to pick the bike off the ground with one hand, and I weigh 47 kilos so size and strengh has nothing to do with it!! My last plane ride the toal package was 32kilos which includes the bike ,cardboard bike box and carry on baggage ,tent etc for a 3 month tour.