Fifty Plus (50+) - Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?

As I continue doing the research and test riding new bikes, I find myself wondering about the law of diminishing returns. As I look at (mostly road) bikes, I find a group of bikes selling from $650 - $1,000, and another set selling from $1,500 to $2,000, and of course there are those that are much, much higher, and there are a few in-between these artificial ranges.

What I am not knowledgeable enough to know is whether a bike costing $2,000 is roughly twice as good as a bike costing $1,000, for instance. Or, to put it another way, if I were to purchase a modest road bike or hybrid at a cost of less than $1,000 (new) would I regret it in six months or so.

I bought my $350 mtb seven or eight months ago, but back then I had no idea whether I'd stick with it. Now I know I will -- so is it a mistake to purchase the lower priced bike because in a few months I'd be kicking myself and wanting more, or not? Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?

Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?

Gary,

Short answer; certainly not twice as good. With that said, it all depends upon whether or not you will value it twice as much. There is something to be said about buying what you really want. I find whenever I have chinced on something, I end up longing for what I really wanted in the first place and I just don't enjoy it as much, and sometimes end up buying the one I really wanted in the first place. That's the most expensive route to go. For $1,000 you can obtain an excellent bicycle. For $2,000 you can purchase a bicycle with probably the same quality frame, but better components, wheels, etc. My suggestion, purchase the one that turns you on. When you consider that you'll probably ride it for many years to come, you're only looking at a few extra pennys per ride. Besides, it might help in keeping you interested in the sport, too. I'm sensing there will be photos of a new steed on this forum soon!

P.S. Earlier you asked how to stop drinking soft drinks. Now here's a solution, save the money that you would normally spend on sodas and put it towards that new bicycle.

Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?
Well, the obvious answer is that it depends on what you mean by "good". In other words, what is it about riding a particular bike that provides you with enjoyment? If the thing that gives you pleasure in riding a bike is knowing how much you spent on it, then yeah... a $2K bike is by definition twice as nice as a $1K bike. :)

By any more rational measure, though, the answer has to be no. A $2K bike will ride smoother, go faster, and look better than a $1K bike. But it will not be twice as smooth, twice as fast, or look twice as good in the opinion of most people. If you were to draw a curve of any sane measure of bike "quality" as a function of price, the curve would flatten out with price... the more expensive it gets, the less a given increment in cost buys you. At the low end of the curve, it's very steep... a $1500 bike is a whole lot nicer than a $500 bike. Once you get to the high end of the curve, though, it gets very flat... a $6000 bike might be a few hundred grams lighter than a $5000 bike, but that's about it. Most riders wouldn't be able even to tell the difference.

Where the sweet spot lies on such a curve is a very individual issue, based on your personal finances, what you get out of riding, and a host of other intangibles. But by any rational measure, I wouldn't expect a $2K bike to be twice as good as a $1K bike.

It's better, but certainly nowhere near twice as good. My two main bikes now are an Atlantis and a Rambouillet, about $2500 each new (I bought the Atlantis several years ago and got a great deal on a used Rambo, so I don't have anywhere near that in them). Before that, I rode a $350 Motobecane from the early '80s and an early steel Allez that cost around $700.
I love the two I have now--I literally can't think of anything I'd change on either one of them. But if I had to justify the price compared to the Moto, I couldn't do it.
Even Grant Petersen, who designed the Atlantis and Rambo and also builds really nice custom bikes, says the off-the-rack models give you 95 percent of the performance of his customs for 40 percent of the money.

Consider the old sepia toned photos of TdF riders and recreational riders from the 20's. Those bikes were heavy, primitive in componentry and comfort options. Yet regular people pedaled up the Pyrenees, etc. Today's $1K bike is utopian compared to them. All your basic (90%) of your cycling needs will be easily met by such Basic Bikes. Beyond such bikes, the differences become marginal. For envelope pushing high performance cyclists, or long-time cyclists, or gear afficionados, those marginal differences may well be very significant and worthwhile. Or, for trendy OCP'ers who read Bicycling Magazine's "bike porn" lists. If $1K is your practical limit, DON'T feel that you are somehow being denied the Highest Dimension of the Cycling Experience. Baloney. Greg Lemond would have won on a Huffy (come to think of it, he did).

At my left elbow now is a large poster of Eddy Merckx kneeling beside his steel, non-index 5 cog. Its functional equivalent today (forget the aesthetics of the handbuilt, lugged frame) would be below your $1K. Poor guy riding such stuff...but don't patronize him overly much LOL...he compensated pretty well.

So, DG, spend as much or as little (down to to $1k) as you like and know you're still very roadworthy for any full century or fast ride with the local grupetto. Of course, the trick below $2K is knowing the features and trade-offs to squeeze out the most personal value for yourself. Skip the brifters and go for bar-ends while up-grading your wheels, for instance. Or upgrade the saddle. Or look for a carbon fork.

Questioning others, test riding....all that fun stuff of searching out Your Bike. Beats watching your bald spot grow.

If $1K is your practical limit, DON'T feel that you are somehow being denied the Highest Dimension of the Cycling Experience. Baloney. Greg Lemond would have won on a Huffy (come to think of it, he did).

Questioning others, test riding....all that fun stuff of searching out Your Bike. Beats watching your bald spot grow.

bike manufacturers use one particular frame on a series of models and just change the spec on that frame to give you the price difference within that range. So a $1,000 bike in a range will have the same frame as the $2,000 bike. What will have changed is the quality of the components.
In my opinion- the bikes will be no difference between the bottom and top, but the ride quality and components are affected. Groupset is the obvious and others will be able to tell you of the difference between the groupset on one bike is a great deal worse than the next model up. Wheels, bars, stems, saddles are components that are worth going for a better spec, and these will also differ between models.

Just face it- You are looking for a new bike and you are also going to the dark side. This will not be your last bike. Test the models and see if one jumps at you. If it does not- go for the model you can afford and wait for it to not be good enough in a years time to get the better spec.(Just like the rest of us)

As I continue doing the research and test riding new bikes...
... Or, to put it another way, if I were to purchase a modest road bike or hybrid at a cost of less than $1,000 (new) would I regret it in six months or so.


"Cycling is 50% physical and 90% mental."
no truer words

"Bikes are 50% technology and 90% romance"
find what you're missin or wantin, then go get that

regrets are usually not for what you got, but for what you think you didn;t get

if we were all 'sensible', we'd all still be drivin Ford Falcons

Interesting question. And interesting answers. Gary, after riding the same bike for 20 years, I asked myself the same question you did. Eventually I bought a $2K bike (which was actually a $3K bike on sale), and I must say I've gotten my money's worth. That is to say, I enjoy it.

However, after my back went to hell in a rowboat, I rigged up a rusting old hulk of a mountain bike with very high handlebars and slicks. At the moment, my comfort bike with a bad attitude is more to me than the new bike--because I can ride it without pain. When my back is fully recovered, I'm expecting to get back on the high-priced steed, (with a few tweaks to my riding position).

GrannyGear wrote "At my left elbow now is a large poster of Eddy Merckx kneeling beside his steel, non-index 5 cog. Its functional equivalent today (forget the aesthetics of the handbuilt, lugged frame) would be below your $1K. Poor guy riding such stuff...but don't patronize him overly much LOL...he compensated pretty well."

I suppose he's in a time of prayer? Or is he lubing his chain? I do that before I mount my "steel, non-index 5 cog" 10 speed '79 Schwinn Traveler. It cost $150 new this month 26 years ago. Adjusted for inflation that would make it around $350 bike in today's market. Depreciation, however, brings it down to (on average) less than $25 on ebay. Yet, I can average about 15 mph on a 25 mile loop.

On my 2003 Cannondale with 27 speeds (9 X 3) I can only make about 10 mph on the same loop. (I know, it's a different kind of bike which makes a difference in speed--- but a 50% improvement?) The C-Dale cost about $1000. So far I've riden it only about 700 miles. That works out to a little over $1.43 for each mile.

After all these years, even with the cost of service, repairs and upgrades, the Traveler has cost me less than $20 per year. I rode it about 1000 miles last year or 2 cents per mile.

Gary, do the math. If you were racing--- more $$$ would make a difference. But you are simply a rider.

Bob

I have a Lemond Buenos Aires (105 - 27 speed, carbon fork) which cost about $1,700 in 1999. It has lasted well with appropriate upkeep. I really enjoy it.

I also have a 2004 Windsor Leeds road bike which I bought on EBay new for $285.00 It is Sora (24 speed) and has also lasted as well, although not quite as well as the Lemond. I have received compliments from strangers on this "beautiful" bike!

And I love both bikes. As far as "riding" experience goes, the Lemond is a bit better, but blindfolded, it would be hard to tell the difference. Is it $1,415.00 better?

I don't know how to measure that. What I do know is that when I want to go on a "real" ride, I take the Lemond, and for some reason I feel like royalty cruising down the road (trail or whatever).

I guess none of us is entirely rational.

What I do believe is that you must find a bicycle that "turns you on" in some fashion or another - that is special to you for whatever reason you like things to be special.

For some folks, that special is riding, maintaining and keeping a 1974 bicycle. For others it is a $6,500 Seven, or a hand-crafted frame, or expensive Dura Ace components. For others it is finding a really great deal on EBay or at a police auction. Each of us has our own "special." But hopefully you will find a bike that is "special" to you!

If you can be patient and shop very carefully you can have the $2K bike for $1K by buying used. I wanted a steel Lemond Zurich and managed to buy a lightly used 2002 for less than $1K. I do have to say that it took me over 6 months to find exactly what I wanted so the being patient part is critical for success.

- i started cheap, went expensive, then back to cheap... $500 initial cost for a used AL frame w/Tiagra components... i still ride it, but for long (30+ mile) rides, i have a $2K+ bike... i can definitely tell the difference, but like both...

- i also have an ultra-cheap find that has proven to be a lot of fun, and through a little elbow grease, morphed into a different ride (see sig linky)...

- all good advice here... your body will tell you what feels good... and don't discount the value of a used bike - you can save a lot of money if you find the right one in your size!

Gary,

I went through the same agonizing decision last year. I was riding a GT mountain bike and an "old" road bike. I liked biking but not the bikes...neither did my body. When I started looking at bikes I looked at them all, did my research, agonized about the price and worried about looking like a poser on an expensive bike. I couldn't pull the trigger. I needed reassurance that I was making the best decision.

What did it for me was when I saw the bike that turned my head and my crank. I fell in love with the bike. It was my color and had all the bells and whistles for a hack like me. That is all it took; all the worry and fear passed. I bought the bike, the extra gear and the "stylish" clothes to match the bike. Now it is a love of my bike and gear that drives me back on the road. (Don't tell anyone but I talk to my bike too). My bike? Specialized Roubaix Elite Triple.

Life is about passion...find the bike you love and buy it! No regret!

Gary, I don't know if Performance is still selling off its stock of Giant and Specialized after the buyout of Supergo. That's where the deals are at. That's where you can spend 1,000 for a 2,000 bike. A couple of years ago Supergo dropped its line of Cervelo and the Dual was selling for around 600.

I'm also bike shopping, and I've reached several conclusions:

1.) Putting me on a $2000 bike would be like giving a Stradivarius to a chimpanzee. I'm just not strong/fast/conditioned enough to take advantage of it. The most important part of any bike is the engine.

2.) In any sport or activity, we all want to feel accepted, and one way to do that is to buy the "right" equipment. This may be one reason that beginners in any activity put so much stress on equipment, whereas old pros--who feel more secure about their status--are sometimes less particular. (Example: I have a friend who's a professional artist, and he sometimes sketches with a ballpoint pen!)

3.) If I bought a $2000 bike, I'd be afraid to ride it to the store, or to work, or in the rain, or anywhere where it might get stolen, damaged, scratched, soiled, rusted, mangled, etc. I wouldn't even want to leave it in my garage, which frankly is a filthy mess. I'd have to keep it upstairs, next to my bed. And that would be weird.

4.) Even if I wanted a $2000 bike, I'm too broke to get one, unless I go into debt. I'd rather pay cash for a $750 bike and be able to sleep at night.

Obviously, other people have more (or less) money than I do, and their conclusions will be different.

All worthy points, Mild Al. However, if you really love riding (and you've got the dough), I wouldn't let Stradivarius/Chimp metaphor keep me from a better bike. Life is short and high-end bike builders will thank you.

Gary, I don't know if Performance is still selling off its stock of Giant and Specialized after the buyout of Supergo. That's where the deals are at. That's where you can spend 1,000 for a 2,000 bike. A couple of years ago Supergo dropped its line of Cervelo and the Dual was selling for around 600.
You can literally have your cake and eat it too. There is a Performance Bike shop in your area. Right now you can get an Ultegra equipped road bike originally $1849 for only $999. Here is the link (http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=21252&estore_ID=596)

My, there is a very high percentage of decidedly well expressed and valid advice in this thread, and I agree with much of it.

Let me add one additional perspective.

I don’t know weather you do now, or ever plan to do your own wrenching but either way here is a point as yet un-spoken in this thread.

From a mechanics point of view I would much rather do a tune-up or a component replacement on a higher end bike than on a lower end bike because the higher end bike has a better groupo. Where adjusting the brakes so that they function (in my opinion) properly on an entry level bike may not even be possible or at least very time consuming, the same adjustment is simple more precise and longer lasting on the better components. The cost is lower also because I didn’t have to throw away and replace stretchy cables or inferior housing.

This is like asking is a $48k BMW 530 twice as good as a $24K Impala/Chryler 300. Some will say compromise with a more affordable $30 Avalon.

Bikes are similar: mechanical differences, image differences, support differences, and mostly my own likes and dislikes.

I've had a bee in my bonnet to check out TT/Tri bikes. Which I have never riden, just to see what all the buzz is about. So I plan to ride some next week. Will I decide to buy one, who knows. But I know I won't find peace until I take some rides. Then I will have a better idea of my likes. It's like test driving a car, or examining it carefully in person. You can inet forever, but until you hit the metal and check out the plastic, you really don't know what's good or bad or just ugly.

Have fun with your search.

This is like asking is a $48k BMW 530 twice as good as a $24K Impala/Chryler 300. Some will say compromise with a more affordable $30 Avalon.



Hey -- I drive an Avalon! Of course, it's nearly seven years old, but it's been a great car. ::::knock wood:::::

Seriously, this thread has been very helpful. I'm much more confident that if I find a bike in the lower price range that seems to suit me, I won't be making some huge mistake bringing it home. And, since I really don't have the budget right now, I can take my time shopping and reviewing and testing, until a harmonic convergence occurs when my budget and The Bike I Should Buy meet smack dab in the middle somewhere.

Gary, you are a middle aged, overweight guy, just like me. Take it from me, you are not in it to race anyone, just for the workout. A $1,000.00 bike ($12-1300.00 with accessories) is plenty fine. It will be nice equipment, that with care & maintenance, will give you years of service. 2K plus accessories is overkill for those of us who are in it for the workout, weight loss &c.
I put 6 years on a trek 750 ($550 + extras) with no trouble. My wife has put 3 more years on it. I cleaned & lubed it the other day, and it is still nice equipment. bk

One last word, Gary.....and that is-- there is no Last Word or, for that matter, Last Bike. Many of us ride bikes we love, but always in the back of our head is our Next Bike which we're assembling in our head. Sometimes a brand new bike, a sweet find at eBay, or a new component iteration of what we have in the garage now. For good or ill, many cyclists are restless, equipment oriented people fond of tinkering their way towards a perfection that always escapes before us like a road mirage-- and which continually redefines itself as we evolve are consciousness as cyclists.

Anyway, the switch from idle fantasizing to a sudden rush down to the LBS waving your charge card can come with astonishing speed. This notion of ongoing turnover takes some stress from you in making choices for your Ultimate Once & Future Bike. Besides, between buying complete bikes, there's always component changes on the ones you have. Good ol' eBay.

Not to be a smart pants......

A person 50+ years old should be mature enough to know to listen
to their heart on what is "right" for them dollar cost be damned.

We should know that money can not buy us the kind of pleasure
that comes with "right" purchase that truely "fits" who and what
we are at the most basic level.

Shallow people throw money at things all their lives never finding
that comfort level that true mature character in choices made do.

At 60 I KNOW who I am and what I like. That guides me to choices
that will reward me with that sweet comfort level of knowing they
are "right" for ME. If I need to change or buy something different
I study what's out there to find those Items that click with me.

I would never spend $2000 on a bike unless the numbers and specs
tell me that this bike and ONLY this bike will meet the need for the job.

As an example.......
My favored bicycle is an old Schwinn world tourist that I bought new.
It fit me then and even more so today.
My most recent purchase was a Worksman PAV trike. Not what many
here whould choose but represents an excellent value for dollar spent
while fitting with my need at a much lower price than any other trike.

Do I lust after a more expensive bike/ trike? No, I don't. I'm quite comfortable
with my choices thank you. ;) ;)

Quit obsessing & go buy the thing. I think you'll be happy with 1K. If the sales person 'ups' you to $1500 or $2K, so what. you will still love it. bk

Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?

No, but it may be at least 50% better IMO. 2K lands you in the field of great frames and much better wheels than usually come on 1K bikes. You will also find a lot more Ultegra and even DA in the 2K range.

Further up, a $3K bike may only be 10% better and a $5K only 5% better. Your level of riding and preference will fluctuate this % greatly. A pro may find a 200% difference between an $8K and $10K, most of us not much other than fear of our wives finding out about it :). This means also that my 50%+ estimate I made earlier applies to me and maybe not to you or anyone on this thread.

Go and try them, and write a detailed review on BF! :D

Hi Gary,

After ten years of riding and five bikes (prices beginning at $600 and rising steadily) I ended up with a Rambouillet ($2300 at the time of purchase). I say "ended up," because unless I wreck my Rivendell, I can't imagine ever wanting another bike...and I'm pretty picky about sporting equipment. It just suits me so well, all I ever think about is maybe an upgrade here or there, but even that is just a passing fancy that goes away quickly.

That said, I was in no position to intelligently spend over $1500 on a bike until the past few years or so...and I ride a lot of miles. So while I would wholeheartedly say that the Rambouillet was the best 2 grand I've ever spent, I can't recommend it for someone in your position. I know you are an intelligent person and committed rider. It just takes time and at least a few bikes to appreciate what it is that YOU want in a road bike, and the odds of nailing it the first time are slim. What everybody else is all gaga over frame-wise and componant-wise will only thrill you in the short run.

Knowing what I know now, I would recommend something in the $1000 -1400 range, and really ride a lot of bikes before you spend even that.

As far as testing bikes, it really is a fun process if you promise yourself that you will be patient and cover a lot of territory before you make a decision. Don't buy anything just because it comes up on sale the very day you are at that particular shop.

The only hard and fast conclusion I have drawn and would pass along is that the 105 componants are a great deal for the money. They are often smoother and more reliable than the higher end stuff, and way better than the lesser groups. If you start with the premise that you want a 105 group--and I think you should--then that eliminates some of the variables.

Also, I would strongly urge you to size slightly on the large side, or at least don't get sucked into a tight fitting frame.

Dude, you are going to have so much fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is one of the soundest advices I have seen posted for those of us reading and test riding bikes before actually buying one. Thank you so much, you just saved me A LOT of money and mental torture over what to get
God Bless and I hope I enjoy cycling as much as you guys do

. It just takes time and at least a few bikes to appreciate what it is that YOU want in a road bike, and the odds of nailing it the first time are slim.

This is my approach. So after several thousand miles on my first road bike, I'm building another so I can compare it.

Rationale: My first car was a '61 VW bug. It took me several years and buying my next car before I learned that you should be able to see in the dark with your headlights on, and that you should be able to stay warm in the winter when the heater was on (not to mention being able to see how much gas is in the tank) ;) .


Bike 1 Bike 2

aluminum frame carbon fiber frame
non-compact frame compact (sloping top tube) frame
std double compact crank
SPD pedals Look pedals
105 Ultegra

I feel like I'm going to have a lot more data points after building bike 2, and having a lot of fun in the process.

At 60 I KNOW who I am and what I like. That guides me to choices
that will reward me with that sweet comfort level of knowing they
are "right" for ME. If I need to change or buy something different
I study what's out there to find those Items that click with me.


Amen Brotha...

Not to be a smart pants......

A person 50+ years old should be mature enough to know to listen
to their heart on what is "right" for them dollar cost be damned.



I completely agree. I would never buy a bike at any price level to please anyone else but me. My original questions were really about how much more value the componets of a more expensive bike bring to the rider, but perhaps I didn't convey that very well. I'm also trying to avoid the dynamic of buying a bike, outgrowing it, buying another one, outgrowing it, etc. That may be unrealistic.

I was worried that the less expensive bikes might break down more, not last as long, etc. I'm not hearing anyone report that, so that alleviates that concern. What's being reinforced for me is that bikes have come so far in the past twenty years that the entry level road bikes are really very good gear, and that I can actually let go of budget concerns and simply concentrate on finding the bike that appeals to me the most, whether it be $500 or more (although I doubt I'll go over $1,200 and probably go far less).

Then again, since I plan to ride for another twenty five years (at least!) I suppose I'll look back at all these questions and laugh, because I'll be on my fifth or seventh or tenth bike by then.

Hey -- I drive an Avalon! Of course, it's nearly seven years old, but it's been a great car. ::::knock wood:::::

How funny. I looked at the 2006 Avalon at the Denver Auto show and everything about it was nice EXCEPT for the ski pole drop down thru the seats. An 8x10 passthru from trunk to rear seat does not hum. Currently have full fold down rear seats and have used this feature numberous times. So I wait and ride the bike more....

"I'm also trying to avoid the dynamic of buying a bike, outgrowing it, buying another one, outgrowing it, etc. That may be unrealistic. "

Gary, you're chasing the wind I think. NO ONE will remain the same over time. We all change
and our needs , likes , abilities change too. There is no one of anything for all time.

Given that the components are of suitable quality then how well ,or not, you care for anything
will determine how long it last as well as how well it functions. There are no other considerations
that you are in control of, mate. So do your homework and let the numbers tell you what is
going to do the job then buy that product. Also DON'T settle for less than is needed. You & I
both know you'll soon be replacing 2nd best with what you wanted/needed in the first place.

What might help you some is to first decide on some features that you are looking for. Maybe that will help zero you in on a price range.

For example, assuming it's Shimano components are you satsified with 105's or do you insist on Ultegra or Dura Ace. Do you want a triple crank or can you get by with a double. Also, one item that can drastically change the price of a bike by several hundred dollars are the wheels.

I wouldn't spend much time fretting over the saddle. I have not had a "stock" saddle that lasted very long on any bike I've bought because of comfort issues.

I would suggest considering a bike that has carbon seat stays and a carbon fork. I know there is a lot of debate over road vibrations and frame types but those two features seem to help me. I'd also avoid an all aluminum frame for comfort reasons. My experience was it was just too harsh a ride. It's fine for 30 mile rides but you feel pretty beat up after 60 miles and more.

Just some more ideas to think about. It's a heck of a lot of fun researching and window shopping!!

Good idea, jppe!

I'd be happy with 105's. I think your suggestion of carbon seat stays and fork is good. I don't know enough to know whether I'd like a frame of anything other than alum, although my Univega singlespeed is steel, and the ride is pretty sweet. Other than that, I'm open to anything!

if we were all 'sensible', we'd all still be drivin Ford Falcons

Man, I wish I still had my cherry red '64 Falcon hardtop. :)

Good idea, jppe!

I'd be happy with 105's. I think your suggestion of carbon seat stays and fork is good. I don't know enough to know whether I'd like a frame of anything other than alum, although my Univega singlespeed is steel, and the ride is pretty sweet. Other than that, I'm open to anything!

Since you already know how sweet steel can ride why not consider treating yourself to a
Rivendall "Atlantis" built up to your needs. That , to me, would make a lot more sense than
buying an "off the shelf" bike then pouring more money into it to make "your bike".

I know that if I were in the market for a new "let it all hang out" bike this would be it.

http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/bikes_atlantisframes.html

http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/membership_atlantis.html

put the most expensive tires on most any 1000 bike
and it'll be within ride spec of waaaay costlier builds

tires are everything

Digital Gee, you are simply thinking too much. For most of us the lightest bike is a moot point. I could lose 2 bikes off my waist and have 20 times the effect of 3 lbs of frame wt shaved off. The only advantage of a really light frame is getting it on and off the top of my car when I travel for rides. Really you have to ride a lot of frames to tell the difference and an old steel frame made of Columbus SLX or Reynolds is about as comfortable as you can get. It has always been the 50 mile rule to break out the differences between frames and road feel. Anything less is absurd to tell any differences. The components make all the difference. I'm a Campy guy but the top of the line Shimano parts are good too.
The comments on Romance and cycling are probably closer to the truth. The "ooohhh" and "aaaahhh" factor when you stop off at the local creamery/coffee shop may be the only real differance. I have 2 bikes made of the latest aerospace tubes (Ti, Carbon, and UltraFOCO steel) and they don't get the second looks that my lugged steel frames get when I go out riding them. I go just as fast and far as the ultra light carbon guy and have just as much fun. Remember bikes are all butt specific...ride anything you buy for at least 50 miles and make sure that there is a good hill on the ride where you can go up and more importantly down with some speed to test the stability of the frame. See if your LBS has a good steel frame for you to buy and ride and get your butt off the couch and start riding now. Grow into your dream bike and you will save a lot of grief and $$$.

See if your LBS has a good steel frame for you to buy and ride and get your butt off the couch and start riding now.

Perhaps you missed that DG has been riding regularly and consistently on his mtn bike, but is now considering buying a 2nd bike?

Yeah probably. No intent on being rude. So many people over intellectualize bike riding I just got carried away. Apology made if needed.

Yeah probably. No intent on being rude. So many people over intellectualize bike riding I just got carried away. Apology made if needed.

No need, but thanks for the advice. I do like to analyze everything and sometimes too much. Still, love the suggestions from the forum! :)

This is like asking is a $48k BMW 530 twice as good as a $24K Impala/Chryler 300. Some will say compromise with a more affordable $30 Avalon.

Others will say that you are better off with a Falcon. I had to sell mine last summer because of moving and a divorce. I miss it. But we sold it for as much as we paid for it for 8 years earlier.
http://www.pointhappy.com/cvcars/falconsq.jpg

Is a $2,000 bike twice as good as a $1,000 bike?

You ask some tough questions, Gary!

Well, it won't make you twice as fast, or help you go twice as far nor allow you do it with half the effort. And it probably won't make you twice as attractive to the babes (speaking from experience at least) :)

In my experience however, a bike with nice components is just plain a joy to own. If you're frugal, maybe that's not important enough to justify the expense, but in MY mind, nice components equal a nicer ride - smoother, quieter, more trouble-free. Usually the fit and finish of frame, paint, components, etc. ARE that much better on a $2k bike vs. a $1k bike.

I recently upgraded my Roubaix from Ultegra to Dura-Ace. It's not going to make me faster, or a better biker, but I really, really like the fit and finish of the components. I appreciate the craftsmenship that went into them, so for me, yes it was worth the additional moola.

Prior to this bike, I had a Specialized Sequoia - an $800 bike. The Roubaix listed for about 3 1/2 times that amount. Am I getting 3 1/2 times the pleasure from the Roubaix? Yes. Absolutely I am. It rides nicer and takes less effort to propel. It's quieter. For me, it was worth it, and I'm enjoying every minute of it.

Take care,

Steve

I must agree with the poster who recommended that you look at the Performance bikes right now. Their stock of the Supergo line of bikes is on sale for next to nothing. I have ridden the Scattante 660 and now own a Scattante CFR. Both are great bikes. Great deals for great bikes. If you need a "name" to make your ride better then pay twice or three times as much and get a bike with lesser components and comparable frames.

When I decided to buy a new road bike, a pro cyclist friend said to buy a good bike since you'll probably love the sport. I didn't listen to his advise and got a $700 bike (Trek 1000). Since then, my biking has turned into a passion. After about a year I was drooling over higher end components and frames. He was right. I finally found a $2000 Trek 5200 carbon bike last year (new but previous year's model). I love this bike and it will hopefully be my last bike (pending a nasty crash).

To me, the extra money was worth the difference in the way the bike rides. I kept the Trek 1000 for family and rain rides. But when I want the ultimate human/bike experience the extra bucks is a no brainer.

My 2 cents

When I decided to buy a new road bike, a pro cyclist friend said to buy a good bike since you'll probably love the sport. I didn't listen to his advise and got a $700 bike (Trek 1000). Since then, my biking has turned into a passion. After about a year I was drooling over higher end components and frames. He was right. I finally found a $2000 Trek 5200 carbon bike last year (new but previous year's model). I love this bike and it will hopefully be my last bike (pending a nasty crash).

To me, the extra money was worth the difference in the way the bike rides. I kept the Trek 1000 for family and rain rides. But when I want the ultimate human/bike experience the extra bucks is a no brainer.

My 2 cents

Will agree about buying a good bike, better than you really need at the time, but situations change. 12 years ago I bought a top- midddle range Mountain bike- Kona Explosif. This was and still is a good bike, but about 5 years ago I had to buy a Different style of bike. Looked at all the types of bike around and even looked at top end bikes. Settled on a bike that cost a lot less than the Kona but bought it for the frame. The components I knew would wear out within 2 years and the upgrades would bring it to a better spec bike. I have recently looked at a new bike- but decided against it. The old bike is still going strong- climbs hills and goes down them. Will do my longer rides with no problems and does not cost a fortune to maintain. I looked at my riding and I do not need a bike that will do 45mph downhill without jarring the body- I do but the downhills are only a short bit of my rides. I do not need a bike that is 5lbs lighter for hill climbing because I do longer rides and want a Frame and components that will stand up to my 50 odd mile offroad jaunts without breaking or wearing out the ultra lightweight bits.
Then there is the Tandem. Not the most expensive around but completely suitable for my style of riding. With the upgrades to bring up to spec. I should think this has cost me around $7000 in its current form.(Bikes and bits are expensive over here). Even that is getting a bit old at 4 years old for the abuse it gets, but why change it? It does everything I want it to, has all the right bits on it for my riding and handles like a dream. Just wish I could get it to go uphills faster, but I think that is another problem that Comes with age. And I don't mean the bike either.

Addendum---- Both the Tandem and the solo were bought for the frame- components could be upgraded as they wore out, but one Upgrade that came very early on with both bikes were wheels. On the solo I was lucky in that I already had some good wheels but then got a better pair built up. The Tandem had to have Custom wheels almost immediately as the stock wheels were not going to last long. A custom built set of Hand built wheels will work wonders on ANY bike and is the one expense I would not hesitate to buy.

I think there is a logarithmic decline in added value as price increases beyond a "sweet-spot." The sweet-spot for me is about $1,000 to $1,500. Below that, component quality declines. Above that sweet-spot, manufacturers focus on light weight (not something I care about or want to pay for).

For recumbents, shift all dollar figures up by $500.

Your preferences may vary...

Digital Gee,

As you now know, there definitely is a cost/quality curve for bikes. Initially as you pay more money for a bike, you get a substantially more sound machine. But after a certain point, you are paying for rather subtle things like ride quality, better paint, nicer finish, gee whiz components, and less weight.

Most bike shops will not carry bikes that are not capable of giving you thousands of miles of good service. I am not that familiar with the more economical component lines but I have heard that Sora and Tiagra are functional.

For years, my bikes has Shimano 105 components. Some things wear out like chain rings, and shifters and other things never seem to wear out. As far as I can tell, with decent maintenance, the components all seem to have similar mileages in them which is somewhere around 30,000+ miles. The major difference between 105 and Dura Ace, as far as I can determine is around a couple of lbs of weight and that would make a difference on a very extended hill climb (even then the effect would be small), otherwise the difference is negligiable except for feel and WOW effect.

Pat

If you're going to ride 60-100 hilly miles, then dropping a few pounds, stiffening the frame, damping out tiny vibrations, making crisp gear changes, and braking smoothly can be worth a few hundred dollars on the price tag. If you're going 20-30 miles, or want a bike for commuting and running errands, then $1000 worth of improvements won't be noticeable.

I have an $800 track bike (Pake) for commuting, running errands, and exercising on a 30 mile route around town that is mostly level. It is more than adequate for those tasks. On the other hand, I wouldn't take it on my rural exercise route, which is 60 miles of bumpy, winding, hilly roads. My smooth, well behaved Klein Reve - $2000 - is in its element on that route.

Riding a bike in the store parking lot confirms the fit, which is crucial, but says little about how the bike will treat you on your actual routes. If you're new to regular distance cycling, you should do fine in the thousand dollar range. In the future, if longer, more ambitious routes end with sore knees and wrists, and wear you out because you're fighting the bike, then you might want to look at the high end, but only when you think you've reached the limits of your current machine.

When you shop, be as specific as you can about how you intend to use the bike. A good salesperson should be able to respond with specific recommendations.

My method is the easiest. Buy the one with the paint job you like best!