Bicycle Mechanics - which spokes to use?

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PhattTyre
03-08-06, 08:11 AM
I'm building new wheels for my road bike using 28h Dura-Ace hubs and DT Swiss RR1.1 rims laced 3x. I want light wheels, but not at the cost of durability (I'm trying to find a balance point). For the front I've decided on DT Swiss Revolution spokes (14/17/14 gauge), but I'm not sure what to use on the back. I'm 135lb rider, so I was thinking the same gauge Revolution spokes would be fine, but with only 28 spokes should I go for a standard 14/15 butted spoke? or am I ok with the Revolutions? If there are any other spoke suggestions I'm open to them as well. Thanks in advance.
The Revolution spokes are fine for you. I have built wheels for guys weighing a hundred pounds more than you with these spokes and had no signifigant trouble with them. One fellow in particular who weighs in the 240 range broke more straight gauge spokes before I convinced him to try double butted spokes. He is now a convert. The last wheel set I built for him was a set laced with Revolutions on 32' rims. He will be using them for the 3rd season this year.
TallRider
03-08-06, 09:49 AM
Double-butted spokes can be stronger than straight-gauge spokes, because they have more flex in the middle, which can ease stresses on the elbows (where spokes usually break) and the rim. 14/17/14 spokes can easily "wind-up" in the middle, though - they're not very torsionally stiff. Should be fine for someone of your size though.
PhattTyre
03-08-06, 10:09 AM
Awesome, thanks guys. That's what I suspected, but better safe than sorry.
I've built and ride three sets of wheels with all Revolution spokes. But these are 32 and 36 spoke wheels. I've learned to hold each spoke with pliars while bringing the tension up to avoid the windup. My experience has been that with 9 and 10-speed hubs with big dish and tension differentials I have to use really high tension on the driveside in order to get enough tension in the non-driveside spokes. You may want to consider using 14-15-14 Competition spokes on the driveside, I think they will make an easier build and possibly hold their true better. I think Revolutions stretch a bit on the driveside rear.
Al
genericbikedude
03-08-06, 01:40 PM
can you build 28h in 3x? I was about to do this with the last wheel I built (high flange track), but the spokes would not have cleared their neighboring spokes elbow. You may have to do 2x--which, I would imagine, would be fine.
can you build 28h in 3x? I was about to do this with the last wheel I built (high flange track), but the spokes would not have cleared their neighboring spokes elbow. You may have to do 2x--which, I would imagine, would be fine.
That's a good point, depends on the hub. I have a 28 spoke 3X front wheel on a Hugi hub. Don't know about the D-A rear hub that the OP says he's going to use.
Al
San Rensho
03-08-06, 04:46 PM
Straight guage, 14, stainless steel. Always used them and I've never had one break in 25+ years of riding. I've dinged rims so bad I had to walk home, but never broke a spoke.
NJWheelBuilder
03-09-06, 06:31 AM
Just a contrary opinion to the rest...
I think your component choices are great. I really like the DT swiss rims. I would consider a 14/15/14 spoke for the rear drive side. The weight penalty is trivial and it will make a more reliable wheel. Revolutions are great everywhere else, but I don't put them on as drive side spokes, regardless of rider weight.
PhattTyre
03-09-06, 07:22 AM
After all this great feedback I've revaluated my spoke and lacing choice. I'm going with the Revolutions in a 2x for the front and Revolution 3x left, and 14/15/14 3x drive side on the rear. Everything mentioned about windup and tension on the drive side makes a lot of sense. I won't be using straight gauge. At 135#, straight gauge makes for too stiff a wheel, I like the extra boing a butted spoke gives. Even my 30#, half recycled, tank of a cruiser has double butted spokes.
Gonzo Bob
03-09-06, 11:07 AM
3X 28-hole should work for all low-flange hubs. I have built 2 sets - one Suntour Superbe Pro with DT Revolution and one Shimano Ultegra with Alpina Oval (I'm about 150lbs BTW). I went 3X for both front and rear for both sets because then I only needed two different lengths of spokes for each set - the non-drive side rear is the same length as the front (YMMV). If you use a different X pattern on the front, you will certainly need three different lengths.
Deanster04
03-10-06, 01:50 AM
I built a set of wheels with DT Swiss revolution on the front and on the non-drive side but, I used 14/15 double butted on the drive side. The revolution will stretch over time on the high tension drive side. I used campy record hubs and mavic open pro rims. Worked will...oh by the way I weigh 235lbs. No problems after 2500 miles. I found that I could use alloy nipples on the revolution spokes and used brass nipples on the driveside rear wheel.
Bobby Lex
03-10-06, 05:20 AM
[QUOTE=PhattTyre] I want light wheels, but not at the cost of durability (I'm trying to find a balance point). [QUOTE]
FWIW, Jobst Brandt says that low spoke count wheels are based on aerodynamic desires (less spokes cutting through the air) rather than weight considerations, which is what most of us assume.
Bob
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