Commuting - Do it yourself halogen light system based off Nite Hawk Raptor

I ordered a Nite Hawk Raptor 6V 10W halogen light system (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=101&subcategory=1067&sku=9719&brand=), and although I haven't already received it, I already anticipate it won't be all that great. It uses a 6volt MR-11 bulb instead of a 12volt MR-16 bulb. Nevertheless, I'll be happy with it since the price was right and it should do the job, with a little squinting of course.

Over time and as the system requires it, I figure I can then turn to making a homemade light, however using this light system as a convenient foundation. So, if and when the bulb burns out, instead of replacing it with an equivalent bulb, is there anything brighter I can stick in there? The system is a 6 volt and, although I am actually not sure of this, I believe the bulb is equivalent to a MR-11. I have seen a couple of 6 volt MR-11 bulbs rated at 20W. How well would that work, aside from reducing the battery life by half, which isn't a problem for me since I have a relatively short commute at night. Also, if it is indeed a MR-11, is it possible to use a MR-16 bulb in there with a little modification? If possible, would it turn out to be too dim considering that voltage? If the voltage is too low, then, would the wiring and all that handle a 12V battery pack. Any other recommendations for aftermarket modifications to this low-end halogen light?

Thanks in advance.

I ordered one of system as a foundation. So, if and when the bulb burns out, instead of replacing it with an equivalent bulb, is there anything brighter I can stick in there? The system is a 6 volt and, although I am actually not sure of this, I believe the bulb is equivalent to a MR-11. I have seen a couple of 6 volt MR-11 bulbs rated at 20W. How well would that work, aside from reducing the battery life by half, which isn't a problem for me since I have a relatively short commute at night. Also, if it is indeed a MR-11, is it possible to use a MR-16 bulb in there with a little modification? If possible, would it turn out to be too dim considering that voltage? If the voltage is too low, then, would the wiring and all that handle a 12V battery pack. Any other recommendations for aftermarket modifications to this low-end halogen light?

I have the same light. The 6v sealed lead acid battery stopped working not long after I got it (but that might be because it departed the bottle cage at a high rate of speed after I bunny hopped a big log). So I got a replacement on eBay for about $9 delivered.

After about a year the light began to turn off everytime I hit a bump. So I bought some new connectors from www.batterspace.com. I think I posted a review somewhere on BF. At the same time I got a 20W 6V light from them, for about $4. It is much brighter. I can't quantify how much, but it's much brighter. It was easy to swap in the new light. I have ridden with the 20W bulb for nearly an hour, and it has stayed bright.

My next project is a set of NiMH batteries and a charger I got from batterspace. I need to change over the connectors, and mount the batteries in a water bottle, and I'll have a lighter setup.

Dave
www.davewilson.cc

^^^ Excellent! That's just the sort of ingenuity I had in mind and just about what I plan to do over time... replace the bulb and battery, and if the wiring needs it, that too. Thanks for the source recommendation.

If I wanted to go with a 12V battery, is there circuitry in the housing which would prohibit that?

^^^ Excellent! That's just the sort of ingenuity I had in mind and just about what I plan to do over time... replace the bulb and battery, and if the wiring needs it, that too. Thanks for the source recommendation.

If I wanted to go with a 12V battery, is there circuitry in the housing which would prohibit that?

Moderator: if possible, please change title of this thread to "Do it yourself halogen light system based off Nite Hawk Raptor"

I don't have this light but looking at the website, they look like they are pretty dumb (not stupid but they don't have any extra electronics:rolleyes: ). You should be able to put a 12V bulb in it and be ready to go. The only issue would be if the material of construction is different for the 12 V system. I don't think it is but you can't tell. I've done this kind of conversion with Niterider and never had a problem. I'd suggest getting 3300 mAh NiMH batteries for radio controll cars. If you wire the connectors so that they are in series and then go to the light you get a light that is running at 14.4 V instead of 12 V. It's much brighter! You do lose some bulb life but it's not that bad.

I don't have this light but looking at the website, they look like they are pretty dumb (not stupid but they don't have any extra electronics:rolleyes: ). You should be able to put a 12V bulb in it and be ready to go. The only issue would be if the material of construction is different for the 12 V system. I don't think it is but you can't tell. I've done this kind of conversion with Niterider and never had a problem. I'd suggest getting 3300 mAh NiMH batteries for radio controll cars. If you wire the connectors so that they are in series and then go to the light you get a light that is running at 14.4 V instead of 12 V. It's much brighter! You do lose some bulb life but it's not that bad.

It's got some kind of semi-smart switch. It's a membrane button that you have to hold down for a second or two for the light to turn on/off, so it's not just some contactors that open and close. I have no idea how that would work. Would it be just the same for it to switch 12 V as 6 V?

Dave
www.davewilson.cc

It's got some kind of semi-smart switch. It's a membrane button that you have to hold down for a second or two for the light to turn on/off, so it's not just some contactors that open and close. I have no idea how that would work. Would it be just the same for it to switch 12 V as 6 V?

Dave
www.davewilson.cc

Okay, considering that I look on electricity as plumbing with electrons and anytime I get much past + or - my eyes start to glaze over, I'm not the best one for advice here. But...human nature and capitalism being what they are, I would suspect that the switch in question is probably used for both the 6V and 12V system. It probably just a soft switch that allows the light to warm up so that it doesn't just snap on. Contact Nitehawk and ask them if you can convert it to 12V. They also sell separate heads which I thought were pretty reasonable (around $30 each if I recall) and they sell switches too.

While you are at it, make (or get) a second light for you helmet. You should always have at least 2 lights...'cause it's dark out there and lions like the taste of monkey:D

You should always have at least 2 lights...'cause it's dark out there and lions like the taste of monkey:D

:lol:

The light ought to come in today, so I'll be able to take a look at the mech. I think your right, cyccommute, about the inherent compatibility. Thanks for the excellent feedback, guys.

Update: I received the light and used it on an hour long ride through pitch black bike paths and streets, and WOW... I can see remarkably well. I am very happy with it. Something I certainly could not do before with my previous LED light.