Classic & Vintage - Bike shop told me my old bike is "dangerous"

Today a reportedly reputable bike shop's employee in my city told me that my newly found 1966 Raleigh Colt is "dangerous" due to it's age. I can't believe this...the frame is straight, no signs of damage anywhere, not one dent, all the parts work fine. I rode the bike a few blocks already, held a nice big adult just fine. When I asked him why he thought it was dangerous, he said it's due to the bearings being old and possibly worn out. He told me it would be better to "just buy a new bike" for the cost of fixing this one (that's a big statement I don't even want to touch).

How much credibility do his statements hold? I think it's a bunch of malarchy and all the thing needs is a wheel truing and an adjustment of the S-A AW hub cable tension. Ah also he's not even sure if his shop can adjust the cable tension of this three speed hub.

IMO, this beautiful bike has survived this far and will be ridden for years to come, it seems strong as a tank.

Today's new fangled bikes will likely not last 40 years . . .
Repack/check the bearings . . . and ride!!!!

What bike shop does he work for? If he works there it's definately not reputable.

Can't adjust the three speed cable? Did you ask them what they can do?:D
Did he even check the bearings, or was he simply assuming he could pull your leg and get you onto a new bike?

"worn out" (not really sure what that is supposed to mean) bearings don't exactly make a bike dangerous. Perhaps a bit slow. Nothing that $5 worth of new bearings, a handful of grease, and 2 hours of your time (assuming you've never repacked hubs, headset, and bb; 1 hour otherwise) won't fix. As for the hub, I'd be surprised if 5% of shop wrenches my age (27) or younger had ever even held a sturmey-archer. If it's a halfway decent shop then someone there had better know how to adjust it, or had better be willing to invest the 2 ****ing minutes it takes to learn.

What bike shop does he work for? If he works there it's definately not reputable.
i'll second that!!!! in all fairness, i wonder if the bike shop owner is aware of the statements and advise his employees are giving. still the buck stops somewhere.

I just rebuilt a 77 Schwinn. Bearings looked like new, cleaned up and repacked nicely. Age doesn't mean a thing when maintained.

I can't recall where the mileage chart it, but there was a guy who rode the same bike for well over gabillion years. He retired from riding and his bike was put on display.

I don't even know how to respond to the stupidity diplayed by that jackass at the bikeshop. He's clearly already made up his mind, and refuses to be confused by annoying little things like facts or reason.

ah the power of salesmanship (he nearly had ya ! lol)

(rant/)In all likelihood, this fellow gets a commission for each bike sale. Anyone with an older bike looks like easy meat... I've seen this scenario repeated time and time again. Nearly every shop in RVA runs some variation on this scam (that's what it generally is). Usually it's prefaced by quoting some ridiculous price for un-needed "repairs". Or saying the bike is "dangerous". They know because they're an expert, otherwise they wouldn't work in a shop, right? Then you move the mark towards the new bikes, which are of course "better". Laughable if you actually know something about bikes, or can wrench it on your own. A couple times, employees at one of the shops I (very rarely) enter have tried this on me. The manager is behind them, frantically pantomiming them to stop, and I'm laughing.

I recently fixed a bike for a co-worker who was quoted a price of 75$ just to diagnose the problem with his bike, with repair on top of that. He was told the price was likely to be in excess of 200$ for repairs, then steered towards the new bikes. The repair was a bottom bracket replacement, a sub 20$ part, plus fifteen-30 minutes wrenching. He paid me for the part and bought me a case of Sierra Nevada. I felt kinda bad, because I had recommended the shop (no more)... I understand a shop has overhead, etcetcetc, but that's truly ridiculous.

And folks wonder why I'm cynical about the LBSs... it's my complete lack of exposure to good ones, which I'm pretty sure exist. People on this board have told me so (and haven't tried to sell me a new bike).(/rant)

Moral to rant: learn to work on your own bikes. It's rewarding, and no one try to sell you a "new, improved" bicycle.

I about puke every time I go to my LBS. They had a pair of Superbe's, picked one up for my Grandfather. The people there, stuffing money into the till for new bikes is great - hey, people on bikes is good. But the Service counter for Parts - they nearly ignore you till you're fuming. No time for nickle and dime.

Plus I think they know I know what they know the consumer doesn't know.

Most of the "name brand" bikes of that era will last forever with reasonable care. The cost of that "reasonable care" depends on how much the owner does himself. My bike repair skills are zero, so I pay for stuff such as cleaning and regreasing head sets and bottom brackets, replacing brake cables and shifting cables. One older bike that I restored ended up costing over $300 in shop charges. I could have bought some sort of "new bike" for that $300. But, it would not have been the bike I wanted.

I see beach cruisers at discount stores for just $99. Somehow, I don't think those bikes will take five years of hard use and abuse. But, there are some Schwinn Cruisers from around 1960 that have provided four decades of service, and are still going strong.

The guys who work at the LBS in my neighborhood get frustrated with customer attitudes. Often, a new bike arrives at the shop in such great shape that it takes less than an hour of labor to get it in perfect shape for the road. But, someone will bring in a thirty year old bike that has never been serviced. It needs everything regreased, and adjusted, and needs the wheels trued. It needs new tires, new tubes, new cables.

The job will take three or four hours...but the customer does not want to pay for three or four hours of labor...the customer says "How can it possibly cost $200 to fix up my old bike, I only paid $75 for it brand new". Of course, since that sort of customer will not service the bike again for ten years, what they are really looking at is $20 per year to keep their old friend on the road...five trips to Starbucks would go through $20.

I see beach cruisers at discount stores for just $99. Somehow, I don't think those bikes will take five years of hard use and abuse.

I'll do you one better. I bought one of those Huffy Cranbrooks at Wal-Mart once with the intentions of reselling it on Craigslist. Someone at WM had priced it incorrectly, and I figured I couldn't go wrong at the price...

...YEA RIGHT! The steer tube cracked in half while I was tightening the headset! I hardly had put any pressure on the nut when this happened. Talk about $***y quality.


When I asked him why he thought it was dangerous, he said it's due to the bearings being old and possibly worn out. He told me it would be better to "just buy a new bike" for the cost of fixing this one (that's a big statement I don't even want to touch).

As for this statement, I'll chime in with the unanimous comment of all: It's all bullcrap.

It's the most outrageously stupid (and in an indirect way, hilarious) sales tactic I've heard in a long time though. If I had been confronted with this statement, I would have wasted no time in attacking those bull**** sales tactics of theirs. If necessary, I'd walk out of the shop...but not after including my knowledge on Sturmey hubs in the argument! That's one way to make them realize they can't pull the wool over the eyes of someone who knows what's what.

-Kurt

I think you guys may be able to guess my position in this debate. :)

Repack all of your bearings with new balls. Replace your chain if it has elongated by 1/2 percent or more. Replace brake pads with KoolStop salmons. Replace brake cables, including housings. Track your parts and labor expenses, then compare your classy, durable ride with any new piece of junk you could have bought with the same money.

Old bicycles are dangerous in only a few very specific ways, all of which are easily dealt with:
1) metal fatigue of aluminum handlebars, stems, and cranks: replace and update;
2) brakes: see above.

___
Bike and rider have a 3-digit combined age. Both of us are still roadworthy.

Most of the "name brand" bikes of that era will last forever with reasonable care. The cost of that "reasonable care" depends on how much the owner does himself. My bike repair skills are zero, so I pay for stuff such as cleaning and regreasing head sets and bottom brackets, replacing brake cables and shifting cables. One older bike that I restored ended up costing over $300 in shop charges. I could have bought some sort of "new bike" for that $300. But, it would not have been the bike I wanted. ...

I have invested $600 in the 1959 Capo, mostly for the refinishing job, with no regrets whatsoever.

Check my signature below, I have two new bikes and three old ones. I didn't need a new cruiser, I needed my current classic cruiser fixed up a bit. If they aren't willing to true the wheels, repack the bearings and adjust the hub chain, I'm going elsewhere. I won't reveal the name of the shop, but it's very popular for fixed gear bikes in San Francisco and I thought they would be something of an authority on a single speed. Hell, they had old bikes on the wall for display that were probably older than mine :)

I had to add to this thread. I recently had a 1977 trek tx 500 serviced ( bottom bracket, i did not have the tool) and while I was paying for the service w/ bike next to me, one of the new "seasonal" sales persons started to say I should "upgrade," new technology etc.etc. I have to add the service guy at this shop and I share interest in old bikes and they know what I am about. Anyway, I told the sales person I was ok. It was Saturday, about 75 degrees and sunny so the shop was very busy. Then two peope who were shopping for bikes came up ( in front of the sales person) and asked all about my bike!:D Many compliments as to color, style and that it looked cool! I could not help telling them I got it on ebay for $150 bucks!:p These were two folks one man & one woman who were looking at $1500 to $2000 "racing bikes". I thought the sales guy was gonna hit me with my out of date frame pump!

I get so tired of getting the attitude when I need a vintage or unusual part in most LBS's. One shop employee once recognized me and called me the "old Campy guy". Needless to say, I buy most of what I need online so that I may avoid such so-called human contact.

We don't all want to be riding aluminum or carbon fiber. Get used to it.

Old bicycles are dangerous in only a few very specific ways, all of which are easily dealt with:
1) metal fatigue of aluminum handlebars, stems, and cranks: replace and update;
2) brakes: see above.

Add: 3) Lambert with aluminum "death" fork.

I bought a '67 Schwinn 3 speed about a year ago and only replaced the tubes and tires. I've ridden it a few hundred miles and guess what? I'm still alive.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure that by now your original suspicion about the bike shop guy has been adequately confirmed. Contrary to my own practice, noted above, I would suggest following the recommendations made in previous posts to repack bearings, replace brake pads, etc.

As for the 3 speed hub adjustment, go to Sheldon Brown’s website and read his articles about hub maintenance and adjustment. That’s what I did and mine has never missed a shift. I put oil in it, followed the directions on how to set the indicator chain and that was it.

Good luck and enjoy the bike. It will outlast the guy that said it was dangerous.

Regards,
Alan

Sounds like the guy at the LBS has something dangerously wrong with his big balls.

I agree with most posts here, but I don't think I could fault the shop. They wouldn't suggest the repairs on the bike b/c it would indeed cost a bundle in labor (not parts!) and most shops don't/can't work for beer. They get paid by the hour, and so be it, since other customers are creating the demand.

But I feel the real fun of an old bike is working on it myself. Ancient notions like adjustable bottom brackets make good sense when you're willing to invest time into the bike's upkeep -- they just don't make sense to the mass-production all-things-disposable modern bike market. If you do want the LBS to do all the upkeep, a new bike is arguably quite sensible. For the rest of us, it's worth the time investment and occasional wrestling match with a chain whip so that we can feel ridiculous affection for our "old" bikes. Grab some tools and go to town. Or bring a case of good beer to your neighborly basement bike wonk :)

Edit:
PS: I strongly agree with others the bike isn't likely to be dangerous. A little attention and it'll be far safer than new, off-the-shelf bikes where improperly installed parts frequently fall off within the first few rides!

I think you should really try to find the owner of the shop and causally ask him about the bike. Just say you heard that old bikes could be dangerous for the reasons this guy gave you. Let him know that his workers are either woefully inept, or completely full of BS. I know that if I was running a shop (and I think I can assume that my local LBS owner would agree), I would definitely want to know if ony of my employees had said something like that.

Today a reportedly reputable bike shop's employee in my city told me that my newly found 1966 Raleigh Colt is "dangerous" due to it's age. I can't believe this...the frame is straight, no signs of damage anywhere, not one dent, all the parts work fine. I rode the bike a few blocks already, held a nice big adult just fine. When I asked him why he thought it was dangerous, he said it's due to the bearings being old and possibly worn out. He told me it would be better to "just buy a new bike" for the cost of fixing this one (that's a big statement I don't even want to touch).This sales line is EXACTLY why I don't buy into that "Support your LBS" line we're fed. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: "I'll support my LBS when my LBS supports me."



How much credibility do his statements hold? I think it's a bunch of malarchy and all the thing needs is a wheel truing and an adjustment of the S-A AW hub cable tension. Ah also he's not even sure if his shop can adjust the cable tension of this three speed hub.Zero credibility.



IMO, this beautiful bike has survived this far and will be ridden for years to come, it seems strong as a tank.Your opinion is spot on.

Go tell him hes a dumb ass. I ride rusted out, contorted and bent old steel everyday, I feel a hell of a lot more safer on that then any new bike.

Ah, but old bikes are dangerous. For exactly the same reason that new bikes are dangerous. The lunatic drivers with cellphones stuck to their faces!

hey Luker is almost right, Old bikes are dangerous. they lead you down the path
of collector, dumpster diver, and haunter of goodwill and pawnshops.
Its an addiction I tell ya, be honest how many of you spent at least an hour
today on ebay or craigslist? add BF time and bobsyouruncle you
have lost half a day. . .

Marty

Hell, they had old bikes on the wall for display that were probably older than mine :)

And they probably don't know poopie about them!

-Kurt

I agree with most posts here, but I don't think I could fault the shop. They wouldn't suggest the repairs on the bike b/c it would indeed cost a bundle in labor.

...Ancient notions like adjustable bottom brackets make good sense when you're willing to invest time into the bike's upkeep -- they just don't make sense to the mass-production all-things-disposable modern bike market.

Pshaw! Any bike shop that doesn't have time to fiddle with common loose ball bearings in a Raleigh BB can replace them with generic Shimano replacements with retainer rings. I've done it before in a Raleigh Grand Prix with 26tpi cups and a cottered BB spindle with no problems. Makes it easier to service...it's a rental.

I seriously doubt that the bearings are in bad shape at all for that matter - probably just caked with old grease, or the left-hand cone hasn't been tightened properly.

Ancient?! Who says adjustable bottom brackets are from the stone age? Cartridge BBs require similar adjustments to install and remove them - what is the big deal if the bearings and spindle so happen to be servicable as well?

Heck, it's certainly a lot cheaper to replace the spindle/bearings/etc. on a vintage machine, for all you have to buy is that particular part, and not another brand new cartridge BB!

-Kurt

Ancient?! Who says adjustable bottom brackets are from the stone age? Cartridge BBs require similar adjustments to install and remove them - what is the big deal if the bearings and spindle so happen to be servicable as well?

Heck, it's certainly a lot cheaper to replace the spindle/bearings/etc. on a vintage machine, for all you have to buy is that particular part, and not another brand new cartridge BB!


Ha, figured that would hit a nerve! I completely agree on the virtues of adjustable BBs and will never part with mine -- I prefer the adjustable. But if I go to the LBS, isn't it simply going to be cheaper to have them install a sealed BB than pay them the hourly rate to pack and adjust (aren't cartridges non-adjustable?) mine? Maybe this is just my ignorance of service rates since I mostly go DIY.

Ha, figured that would hit a nerve! I completely agree on the virtues of adjustable BBs and will never part with mine -- I prefer the adjustable. But if I go to the LBS, isn't it simply going to be cheaper to have them install a sealed BB than pay them the hourly rate to pack and adjust (aren't cartridges non-adjustable?) mine? Maybe this is just my ignorance of service rates since I mostly go DIY.

Hourly-rate? The local shops here charge by the repair.


I would expect a competent repairman to have an adjustable BB serviced in just under twice the time it takes to swap a cartridge BB, provided all the parts have already been set out. True, takes a bit longer, but not significantly. Take into account as well that an idiot (common enough at the LBS!) will take twice as long to install a cartridge BB as an experienced serviceman takes to service an adjustable BB

However, to address your point:

"...isn't it simply going to be cheaper to have them install a sealed BB than pay them the hourly rate to pack and adjust"

I doubt it!

A decent, new sealed BB at the least will run you about $40, probably $70 for one that's mid-to-high-end. Add $20-25 for labor or so, and you're set back - at the least - $60 dollars.

I question the fact that a 15 minute traditional-BB repack will cost $60 total!


For that matter, here is an interesting observation:

Brand-new mid-range Jamis hybrids have adjustable non-sealed BBs. That's right - you're still stuck with traditional so-called "old-fashoned" adjustable BBs on your brand new $300+ hybrid.

I wonder if this same LBS fellow would refuse to redo the BB on one of these brand-new Jamis brought off the floor.


As for a cartridge BB being adjustable, no, they are not, but they're installed and tightened into the frame similar enough to how you would do the same on a traditional BB. Might even be a bit slower to install a cartridge BB then to install the cups on an adjustable.

-Kurt

I do all of my own work, but I do refer a lot of folks to bike shops.

I've found that small specialty or niche bike shops tend to provide good service. If the bike is out of their area of expertise they will generally be able to send you to someone who will be able to help you. We are lucky here in Minneapolis to have several "Specialty" shops. Another good bet are small shops where the owner is usually hands-on. Those that have been in business since forever and handled Schwinn and/or Raleigh "back in the day".

Speaking of old bikes and bearings;
I'm constantly amazed at the number of old POS "Bike Boom" bikes I see in daily use. Many look like they have never gotten a moment of knowledgeable service. Yet they are still running. I imagine we all replace a cup, spindle, headset or cone as soon as a little pit or brinnelling is detected, and occasional lubrication and adjustment is a given.

But I wonder how long you could keep riding a bike after that 1st pit shows up before it's no longer ridable. Not a bike lover's definition of "Not ridable", (ie, some slop or roughness so it's irritating to ride) but absoulutely can't go another mile.

"...isn't it simply going to be cheaper to have them install a sealed BB than pay them the hourly rate to pack and adjust"

I doubt it! A decent, new sealed BB at the least will run you about $40, probably $70 for one that's mid-to-high-end. Add $20-25 for labor or so, and you're set back - at the least - $60 dollars. Shimano's UN-53 is "105 grade" and retails for about $20. The "Ultegra grade" UN-73 runs about $32. Once the crank arms are off, it takes me about 3 minutes to remove and replace a cartridge BB. Takes longer just to clean the old grease out of an adjustable. One big difference is the superior tool/part interface. That said, I use adjustables whenever possible. But if I was doing repairs at the retail level I know what I'd push.

Speaking of old bikes and bearings;
I'm constantly amazed at the number of old POS "Bike Boom" bikes I see in daily use. Many look like they have never gotten a moment of knowledgeable service. Yet they are still running. I imagine we all replace a cup, spindle, headset or cone as soon as a little pit or brinnelling is detected, and occasional lubrication and adjustment is a given.

I've counted over 150 individual Bike Boom clonkers in town still toodling about (and this in a city that is rare to see a bike period), and I'd wager that there's over 450 of them still running about. Rarely are they in decent shape, and are usually bike-boom era Vistas, Free-Spirits, Murrays, Huffys, and other commonly dissed manufacturers.

And yet, 80% of them are still running, and usually pretty silently too...I have yet to see a department-store MTB roll by me without it's low-end version of Shimano Hyperglide ticking away on an adjacent cog!

-Kurt

Shimano's UN-53 is "105 grade" and retails for about $20. The "Ultegra grade" UN-73 runs about $32.

I'll let you know when I need one...

-Kurt

If what he meant was that the hub was broken or damaged he could be right about the price. It could go either way, depends on what he meant.

We can't see the bike, and one can't really tell if an axle is broken etc. over the internet. It seems unlikely that anything could be dangerous. Do the wheels move side to side a lot? It could just as well be a ploy to sell a new bike too. If the wheels don't move a huge amount side to side when you push them sideways with your hand it's not dangerous. If the hub rides OK then try another shop. Are you actually having trouble with the hub now?

It takes me just as long to repack as it does to replace a cartridge BB. Cartridge BBs require removing BOTH crank arms, a tradtional cup and cone doesn't. Usually I have to heat the BB shell with a propane tourch to remove the cartridge without risking bodily injury. However, if I have to replace the bearing races, that'll take a while longer.

Guy walks into a hyundai dealership needing an oil change for his Bentley. The sales guy tells him that he should dump the old Bentley and buy a new car, (those old bentleys are dangerous). For the price of an oil change and a tuneup on the bentley (at a Hyundai dealership), the guy could have a new ELANTRA. Bentley guy leaves... vowing to never again take his Bentley to a Hyundai dealership for service.

Does the owner of the LBS in question if he agrees with his own salesguy?

Maybe that shop can service your bike. But if the owner agrees with the saleguy, find a different shop that appreciates you and your dangerous old raleigh and more importantly a that shop will charge you accordingly -- not overcharge you just b/c you're riding something that's cool and different, and "not sold here". Keep in mind that servicing old parts often costs almost as much as getting new ones, sometimes even more other times less.

Sure, old bikes are more work, especially when they're in need of having parts replaced. If the bike needs work, be prepared to get greasy or spend some money. It's almost always easier to replace old parts with new ones, and definitely cheaper and less time consuming. But I'd be more worried about servicing the sturmey archer three speed than the bearings in the hubs/headset/bottom bracket. Any bikeshop should have bearings and grease. If the cones are pitted, that's a different story. There are lots of things you could do with this bike, including just ride it! Shimano still makes many different styles of internal geared freehubs from 3(?) to 8 speeds. goto http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus.html for info.

This has been a great thread to follow, many have been down the same road and are offering good advice. ;)

I'd guess that a Raleigh Colt represents the philosophy of manufacturing "durable goods" more capably than most of the new bikes sold in that LBS's showroom.

Money spent on repairing and maintaining the Colt is invested, not wasted. They are neat bikes.

Wow, sounds like I'm lucky to have a good LBS in my town (actually the only LBS in town). When I took my Peugeot in there recently they were all checking it out and complimenting it! I took my old Stumpjumper in there and I think the owner nearly peed himself! :D Not only that, but I can get new parts there cheaper than online because they give me a discount. :)

... I ride rusted out, contorted and bent old steel everyday, I feel a hell of a lot more safer on that then any new bike. I am with you. :)

I love old steel! The Audi is 9 years old, but looks 9 months old. The Peugeot is 36 years old, and probably looks it. :)

And folks wonder why I'm cynical about the LBSs... it's my complete lack of exposure to good ones, which I'm pretty sure exist. People on this board have told me so (and haven't tried to sell me a new bike).(/rant)

When I got back into riding this year, I visited about a dozen shops here in Atlanta. Nine of them sucked. A few (owner operated) were OK. I asked a sympathetic sales guy at one of the largest OK independent shops who was helping me forage for parts if there were a shop more appropriate to my vintage lightweight.

FWIW and Shameless (NOT self) promotion: Its Bicycle South, here in Decatur corner of Clairmont / North Decatur.

Yes, they too sell all manner of new bikes. Their parts prices are most often a little higher than online, although sometimes the same or even lower. They have a deep stash of old used and NOS parts. Most of the folks who wrench and sell really like vintage lightweights. Although I do almost all my own work (cables, derailleurs, cups and cones, tires, basic truing), they have done some work for me where I yet lack the tools (a new chain, a cottered crank bottom bracket rebuild), at reasonable prices. I'm very fond of these guys. Fair prices, exc judgement, good work.

They have a web site http://bicyclesouth.com.

The moral: decent shops are out there, you just have to dig around. Ask at bike swaps. Keep asking. You will likely find one or two.

Moral to rant: learn to work on your own bikes. It's rewarding, and no one try to sell you a "new, improved" bicycle.

It's rewarding, for sure, but EVERY TIME I work on a bike I try to sell myself a new one. Of course, I'm often trying to sell myself a new one when I'm NOT working on a bike, too... and having seen some of your stuff in the "catch of the day" tread, I bet you suffer the same!

hey Luker is almost right, Old bikes are dangerous. they lead you down the path
of collector, dumpster diver, and haunter of goodwill and pawnshops.
Its an addiction I tell ya, be honest how many of you spent at least an hour
today on ebay or craigslist? add BF time and bobsyouruncle you
have lost half a day. . .

Marty


This is true, Me Cuda2k and lotek have all felt the pain and danger associated w/ riding old steal. also working on your own bike can be dangerous too. it leads to parking your cars on the street and pissed off spouses

'Old steal', eh? That's about right, the prices lotek and cuda pay for things... :p

The moral: decent shops are out there, you just have to dig around. Ask at bike swaps. Keep asking. You will likely find one or two.

+1

Even in Portland, where bike shops abound, I can't stand most of them. They're bike sales shops, not service shops. OTOH, I *heart* my LBS.

Need your bars wrapped? Buy a pack of Cinelli for reg. retail ($15) and they'll wrap 'em for you. Need brake pads? Buy a full set of Kool-stops for reg. retail ($20) and they'll install them and adjust your brakes. Need your wheel trued also? How does $10 sound?

Sorry, been riding in this town twenty years plus, there's no good ones, with the possible exception of Re-cycles on Cary. They're too new for me (less than one year old) to get a full read on yet, but so far they've been surprisingly okay, and I have yet to hear any horror stories. They're more a co-op than a shop, and I've donated a few frames, a truing stand, some other stuff to them. Bought a few odd things. We also just got a Performance, maybe that'll scare some of them out of the seven dollar inner tube and the like...

Seriously, they're so bad I felt forced to figure out bikes on my own. I wouldn't be wrenching today if it weren't for the awfulness of RVAs shops, and I probably wouldn't be scrounging up old rides, either, if the worst of them hadn't laughed at a simple repair reqeust on an old Peugeot long ago. I suppose I owe the LBS for this. But at this point, I don't actually need an LBS any more.

Yeah, yeah, I keep getting "new" old bikes... they just keep following me home 'cause they know I'll treat 'em right, I suppose... plus, until recently, they were cheaper than dirt around here... it hard to turn down cheap 531, @#$%! it...

Well, this is surely an interesting thread! I'd like to add...

1) The '66 Colt sounds nice. Can you post a pic? Thoroughly clean, inspect and repack and it should be good to go. Read up on S-A 3-speed adjustments online - it is a quality part and is servicable.
2) Carefully inspect everything while you clean it. I recently rebuilt an old '75 Schwinn Suburban 10-speed and only needed a few things: Tires & tubes, rim tape for rear wheel and rear dr cable, which was frayed. It was all original and the other brake/shifter cables were fine after I rubbed them down with light oil and fine steel wool. They were actually a heavier gauge than the replacement cable. (I'll need to pick up new brake pads later.) Which leads to...
3) Had to go to LBS's to find that Schwinn cable. First stop, the kid disappears in back with my old cable, comes back and hands me a new one plus a roll of Velox and walks away. I brouse for a minute and notice the new cable has a totally different shaped barrel stop on the end. So, I handed the stuff back and walked out. Drive 10 more miles to LBS #2 (I know this owner) and his employee is upfront w/ me - they don't carry what I need but had one that I made work. The owner suggested that I just let the cable end stick out of shifter handle, but instead I slowly smashed it in a vise until it fit just right. The funny part... the kid working at #2 tried to keep my old cable and I had to ask for it back. Hey, I can use it to cut down and replace the front cable one day! But give credit to them, they were nice, stopped to help me for a tiny cash sale, and offered advice. I made sure to thank the guy because I knew it was not really financially worth his time. The will get my future LBS business.

Keep on wrenchin'

1976 Austro-Daimler Ultima
197x Raleigh Grand Prix
1975 Schwinn Suburban

Even better: I have a couple different Raleigh 3 speeds I've used in here in DC. One is a Sports, the other a DL1. The Rod Brakes were it bit weak but functioned fine, even in the city.

Now, I bought a Specialized Hardrock new a couple years later from LBS. 3 weeks into owning it the front derailleur went weird. I played with it a bit and adjusted it properly (checked manuals right down to the detail). I rode it a few more times and no problems. One night about 2 weeks later I'm riding along at maybe 20 mph toward a sidewalk to get into the metro (subway). Just as I'm about to go up the sidewalk ramp the chain shifts itself off the cogs and into the frame. The back wheel seized up and I went headlong onto the curb and nearly threw myself into a plate glass window head first (no helmet because like a dumbass I decided the 2 minute ride to the metro would be easier without having to carry it around with me once I got there). I fought the thing under control and didn't get launched (but came close).

Ironic thing is that the 3 speeds gave me little trouble compared to that brand new Specialized. That "Made In England" label means something if it's a Raleigh for sure and your Colt is probably sounder than many "modern" machines.

I just rebuilt a 77 Schwinn. Bearings looked like new, cleaned up and repacked nicely. Age doesn't mean a thing when maintained.
In the case of S-A three speeds maintenance is also irrelevant. OK I exaggerate. One drop of oil every other decade may be required.

I just paid my LBS (George's) do a full overhaul on my "new" 76 Moto G-S. Cleaned, repacked, adjusted and trued everything on the bike for $100. The fact that they dug the bike was just a plus. They do a pretty good job and they always have people into "retro" bikes. The one bummer is, they damaged the 531 decal on the seat tube..."don't know how THAT happened"...