Mountain Biking - specialized

i am thinking about buying a specialized p2. i heard it was a nice bike but im not sure. any thoughts?:rolleyes:

hey. i dont know if any of you freeride at all or jump. but my friend told me that it was a nice bike and the components are pretty good and its only $550. so if you have an opinion state it

Technical Specifications


FRAME A1 Premium Aluminum, Centerfold top tube, double-butted and manipulated down tube, forged and relieved head tube, forged BB shell with integrated ISCG mounts, forged horizontal dropouts Horizontal dropouts in case you want to singlespeed.

REAR SHOCK N/A

FORK Marzocchi Bomber EXR, 100mm, preload adj., Cro-Mo steerer, coil/MCU spring No rebound adjustment? Can we say Pogo Stick? MCU is the stuff they make superballs out of. All that aside it's still a 'Zoch which isn't a bad thing.

HEADSET Tank, threadless, 1-1/8", sealed loose ball, nickel plated

STEM TruVativ Hussafelt, forged alloy, 40mm reach

HANDLEBARS Specialized, alloy, 30mm rise, 9 deg back sweep, 6 deg up sweep, 640mm wide

TAPE / GRIPS Specialized no flange double density Kraton

BRAKES F/R Hayes HMX-1 HD, mechanical disc, 8" F 6" R Hold out for Avids same price better brakes.

BRAKE LEVERS Shimano Alivio integrated shift/brake lever

FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Alivio, 34.9 clamp, bottom pull

REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Deore

SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Alivio integrated shift/brake lever

Alivo = CHEAP you'll find this level of stuff on the low end comfort bikes (or my commuter) Did I mention CHEAP?

CASSETTE Shimano HG-50, 8 speed, 11-32t

CHAIN Shimano IG-31

CRANKSET TruVativ Hussafelt, ISIS, forged alloy Here's a bright spot

CHAINRINGS Alloy bash guard, 32Cro-Mo/22Cro-Mo

BOTTOM BRACKET TruVativ Hussafelt, ISIS, 73mm shell, 113mm spindle, alloy cups, sealed cartridge bearings ISIS = stiff and strong

PEDALS Alloy platform, press pins, sealed loose ball bearings, 9/16" Cro-Mo axle

RIMS Sun DitchWitch, 26", 36 hole, eyelets

FRONT HUB Joy-Tech, 36 hole, disc, sealed loose ball bearings

REAR HUB Joy-Tech, cassette, 36 hole, disc, sealed loose ball bearings

I've never heard of Joy Tech but I'm guessing cheapola

SPOKES 14g stainless steel, brass nipples

FRONT TIRE Specialized Roller Sport, 26x2.3" wire bead

REAR TIRE Specialized Roller Sport, 26x2.3" wire bead

TUBES Specialized 26", Schraeder

SADDLE Specialized Jumping, 8mm rails, X-Brace, bumpers Looks like a seat but if you have a long ride ahead you'll suffer.

SEAT POST Alloy micro-adjust, 30.9x350mm, for 8mm rails

SEAT BINDER Forged alloy collar, alloy QR, 34.9 OD

NOTES Chainstay protector, owner's manual & adrenaline rush included Not going to touch that one.


Ok here's the skinny it's a bike that's made to be taken out have the living crap kicked out of it and be fairly cheap to fix, provided you stick to the stock specs. Frankly it doesn't do what I want a bike to do so I won't be buying one. But it will work fine if your looking for an urban hucker bike. If you're looking to do any kind of longer ride or even ride up a hill the geometry looks as though it would suck. You asked for an opinion there it is.:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Raiyn
Ok here's the skinny it's a bike that's made to be taken out have the living crap kicked out of it and be fairly cheap to fix, provided you stick to the stock specs. Frankly it doesn't do what I want a bike to do so I won't be buying one. But it will work fine if your looking for an urban hucker bike. If you're looking to do any kind of longer ride or even ride up a hill the geometry looks as though it would suck. You asked for an opinion there it is.:rolleyes: Yes - but what do you really think?:D

It's really designed as an Urban assault/DJ bike. I tend to think of it as a BMX bike on Steroids. I wouldn't say the spec is bad. Sure it's cheaper stuff, but the MSRP kinda reflects that. You can easily replace parts as they break. And as a UA/DJ bike, they WILL break.

The price can't be beat.

What I really like is the P.1, their single speed bike! MSRP of only $440. I may have to start saving my pennies.

L8R

I've ridden the P2 ... and it utterly kicks ass.

It's a LOT of fun.

Who cares about the parts spec... if you slap an XTR Derailleur on there.. you're gunna' break it anyway... why not put crappy parts... on.. it'll save you money!

I say get it dude! it's a lot of fun to ride :beer:

hey guys thanks for the info. i know some of the stuff is crappy like the alivo levers and stuff. but im not getting much money for christmas and i just like to fool around on courses and stuff so i need a tough bike that im not going to regret breaking stuff on it. alright if you have any other info post it. i already have the specs so dont post them again.

Now my opinion...I own a bike with similar Geometry. It kicks ass but Raiyn is right. For longer rides you start to feel it (I am talking 4 hours rides) Since I don't ride like that and only do urban, dj and aggresive xc / freeriding I only need a bike that is tough, durable and won't stap in two. This frame won't do that. Now that bad part

Fork sucks. I have one. I broke one (recently). it lasted 6 months and worked ok but has no real adjustments to speak of and is tortionally loose. (riding through a rock garden and your wheel turns sideways but your hands didn't move). This would be the first thing to consider dumping. It is a xc fork on an aggresive bike.

Drive chain I leave cheap. I break parts and don't want to spend a lot fixing. I have ridden an xt deraileur and there is nothing noticeable different accept the weight in my hand.

Switch out that rear rim. The rims work well in the front or for basic xc but I started warping mine after the first 5 rides. As for those hubs. What the heck are those haha.

The brakes. Well I am not going to rant about these again. Do a search. Spend the extra money and get rid of them. THEY SUCK. Pay the extras for Avid disks.

In the end you are getting a good deal on a crappy bike. The frame is good but almost everything on it is garbage. I would buy one in a sec and just wait for parts to break and replace them as they break. In the end this bike will cost you 1000 to 1200 by the end of your season.

Keep in mind this is only if you are using it for aggresive riding like dj's or street. If all you are doing is commuting or riding regular xc trails it will be fine for durablility.

Originally posted by mrmikee
hey guys thanks for the info. i know some of the stuff is crappy like the alivo levers and stuff. but im not getting much money for christmas and i just like to fool around on courses and stuff so i need a tough bike that im not going to regret breaking stuff on it. alright if you have any other info post it. i already have the specs so dont post them again.


What you should do is get it, and leave everything stock. If you have the money, then you could swap out what the others are saying. If you dont have alot of money, just leave it how it is. You probably wont break anything, just dont go too big on it.

thanks ill order in a few weeks. i was thinking about replacing the fork down the road with a marzocchi dirt jumper. like the dj 1 or something. any thoughts?:D :D i have 400 bucks now and 150 to go

Dirtjumpers are very nice forks, though $150 wont get you anywhere. Save up money and get a standard DJII, that way you wont have to get a new hub/whole wheel.

I think he was saying he's got $400 saved and needs another $150 in order to have the $550 necessary to buy the bike!

Again, I wouldn't change a thing until stuff breaks. Sure the parts and the fork are low end, but so what! Ride it till it hurts, as stuff wears out, replace it with what you can afford at the time. If you can swap out the brakes at time of purchase for a set of Avid's for only a few $$$$ more, go ahead. Just don't NOT get the bike b/c of the brakes!

Get it, ride it, have fun, don't worry about it!

L8R

thanks guys ill post another thread when i get the bike later.:beer: :D :D :beer:

For that kind of cash you will have a sweet bike, mikee. Something to think about, have you ridden an aluminum frame hardtail yet? They are light, but very rigid and stiff. I had one and rode the snot out of it but chromolly is much more forgiving, and sometimes cheaper. I have a friend who recently went back to a HT, he ended up buying a surly instigator-

http://www.surlybikes.com

It's something to think about, the bike market is very competitive right now, and you can buy a frameset and get the parts you want now, instead of trying to upgrade later and have a bunch of worthless parts laying around. I've been there, and that's why I have a shop full of worthless parts laying around :) It might cost you a little more now than buying a factory bike, but maybe not in the long run.

If you decide to go with the Specialized you will have a cool bike. Good luck and have fun!

Originally posted by a2psyklnut
I think he was saying he's got $400 saved and needs another $150 in order to have the $550 necessary to buy the bike!



I guess I read his post really well:rolleyes:

hi a2psyklnut.

where did you see the P-1 for $440? is it at a store near you or do you know someone selling it. if someone has a P-2, i would be willing to buy it for $450 US, and if you have a P-1, i would be willing to pay $400. thanks a lot.

the way you guys go on about cheap parts and stuff i must be real lucky. i have a saracen mantra :( but i ride thecrap out o it each and every day. i mean like five foot drops and stuff. my cassette is worn otu now (not proper maintanance) so im gettin a new wheel, cassette, chain tensioner and a trials crank :). my bike cost £16 (around 24 usd) less than the p2. i am really chuffed :D

The HardRock isnt that much better in the parts department.

I think its the rider, not the bike that matters.

If you put an ignorant rider on a Kona Stab Primo versus a good rider on a good entry-level mtb, theres no comparison.

shaun16, you are selling a p-2 for 16 british pounds? send me some pics of it, and maybe we can figure something out. as long as its not all scratched up and any dents, then i wouldnt be sure. does it look like its in really good condition? can you send me some pics of it so i can get an idea of what it looks like? if there are any problems, have them fixed and i will add one some money. thanks a lot.

if anyone has a Specialized P-2 for a very low price in very good condition, email me at kyle_diamond@hotmail.com . my dad is a little skeptical buying a bike that isnt in a store because he doesnt know the condition and he also doesnt know what it looks like, or whether there are any problems. i ilve in quebec canada, if you are willing to ship it here, for a low price, i will concider it. only 2003 model, and must include waranty.

unchained rida

Originally posted by unchained rida
if anyone has a Specialized P-2 for a very low price in very good condition, email me at kyle_diamond@hotmail.com . my dad is a little skeptical buying a bike that isnt in a store because he doesnt know the condition and he also doesnt know what it looks like, or whether there are any problems. i ilve in quebec canada, if you are willing to ship it here, for a low price, i will concider it. only 2003 model, and must include waranty.

unchained rida

It can't include warranty if it is used. No company I know of has transferrable warranty between owners.

Its the best for the money id say go with it....you wont be able to beat the **** out of that machine

Maelstrom, do you have one though. fine it doesnt need a waranty, its just i want to know that once i buy it, i have like a 24 hour return policy, just incase anything happens.

shaun16, you said that your bike is cheaper then the P-2. where did you see a P-2 for a little more then that?

Originally posted by unchained rida
Maelstrom, do you have one though. fine it doesnt need a waranty, its just i want to know that once i buy it, i have like a 24 hour return policy, just incase anything happens.

I have a bike similar but no not the specialized exactly. 24 hour return is usually left to department stores. You best bet is to get out and do a couple of test runs on it. Most shops will let you borrow the bike for an hour or so.

I'm kind of torn between a P2 and a Kona Stuff (http://www.konaworld.com/2k3/2k3_stuff.cfm). The P2 is a little cheaper, but Kona frames... They make me dance and sing.

Besides, the shop that would be swapping the fork out on the specialized is giving me a bad deal on it, so the price is almost identical in the end. :irritated

Stuff rocks...I own the big brother in the roast so I am biased. I prefer the colouring of the stuff over the p2 so for me it wouldn't be much of a decison :D

quote by unchained rida
"shaun16, you are selling a p-2 for 16 british pounds? send me some pics of it, and maybe we can figure something out. as long as its not all scratched up and any dents, then i wouldnt be sure. does it look like its in really good condition? can you send me some pics of it so i can get an idea of what it looks like? if there are any problems, have them fixed and i will add one some money. thanks a lot."


im not sllin a p-2! i was just saying that my saracen cost £16 less than a p-2. sorry for any misunderstanding.

quick question
how do you do that quote thing. ive never done it before alsounder my name it says senior member. how did i get this and what does it mean..

thanks

It means you have been on for 30 days

is that it lol.
i thought it was something special :) ;)

how do you do that quote thing.

Instead of using the quick reply screen, hit the button that reads, "Post Reply". It'll bring up a menu bar.

You highlight and copy the specified text, then hit the "quote" button and paste.

L8R

ok. i just want to know of anyone who wants to sell a Specialzied P-1 or P-2. i am willing to spend around $400-425 on it. even if you dont have one, but you know someone who does and might be interested in selling it, tell me. i want the bike to be in mint condition, with not too much use on it. anyone, please help me find one.

If you can wait a couple months, P1s and P2s are going to start going on sale to make way for the '04s.

you said that P-1's and P-2's are going to start to go on sale for the o4 models. first of all there arent many P-2's left, and whatever is lest, im sure will stay at its same price because of its popularity. if you see one somewhere for around $400-410 USD, then tell me the email address, the name of the store, and web address (only if it has one). i only want the P-2 now, i find that the P-1 is pointless because of its onl rear disc brake and only one gear, so if you see a P-2 for $400 USD, email me at kyle_diamond@hotmail.com

Unchained due to different stocking option specialzed in the states has a different stock level than we do. Same thing happens with Giant as well.

You obviously don't dirt jump. The p1 is geared (interesting pun) to the rider who going to the dirt jump park. You only need one gear and really no brakes but sometimes only 1.

even if you find a bike for cheap on the net, the shipping will get to ya $30-50 more so i suggest coughing up the money and buy a bike locally...