BMX - Bars, Grips, and Tires?

I had the money to order a new bike today, so I went into the shop and it turns out that Eastern is sold out of all of the Janes and Ace of Spades's. Sucky. I decided I didn't want to pay the extra for a Fit Flow, plus I wanted to support the local shop and not buy it online, so I decided on the Specialized Fuse III. Ordered it, should be here early next week. :)

Now, my question is, since it cost less than I was prepared to pay, should I just do some upgrades right off the bat? I was thinking of getting Odyssey Path tires, maybe a different one in front, and ODI Longneck's, and possibly some Odyssey Civilian bars because the digital camo ones look sweet in the pics I've seen :D
Are those choices good? I live on a dirt road and will be doing some dirt riding, but also hopefully a lot of street and park.

Or I could always put the money towards a fisheye. Who knows.

Unless you have people lined up to buy the non used parts you would be replacing of it right away, then I wouldn't upgrade it right away. Just ride them out untill they all die, then replace them. Put your money in the bank untill then also.

Put your money in the bank untill then also.

Yeah... that'll happen. :rolleyes: :D

Well, I have a feeling the stock grips aren't the greatest, but I might be wrong. My friend would probably want the tires though. I'll see how they feel at least. And I know I want some Jim C's for it, but I might just use the ones on my current bike for a while.
The bars I know I don't need, heh.

And the money will go in the bank.. until I find something I want :D

Grips- I would reccomend Odyssey Matt Beringer
Tires- Fly or a Maxxis M tread in the back and a maxxis holy roller in the front (i liked that combination too)
Bars- I dont have much experience with bars, I'm still using stock, I bought some nyquist bars to give 4pc a try, but i didnt like them.

Grips: ODI Rogue
Tires: Haro Joe Dirt
Bars: Sunday

Grips - Primo Martinez (NO Q & A)

Tires - Primo Wall or KHE not so sure about tires

Bars - Odyssey Civillian Svelte(or just the regulars)

Hmmm. What lens are you looking at?

I want to get the Peleng 8mm manual focus fisheye for starters - here's a page with some test images:
http://www.jarnell.com/reviews/peleng/tests.htm

It goes for around $200 new on Ebay, and though the optical quality is not L-series class it's supposed to be a decent lens if you don't print big (and I don't). And eventually I'd like an ultrawide zoom.

8mm is film, but L series is DSLR...so are you confirming my notion that Flim lenses and camera lenses are interchanable?

Grips --> anything that is clayton is good.
Tires, The Maxxis Holy Rollers look pretty good, i put them on the back by accident, im not sure if you can put it on the back for dirt....no dirt trails near the Bronx

These new 4 pc bars like nyquist are **** (altho i just found out there are also 2 pc nyquist bars)... i dont know what tricks you can do with such narrow width (flatland or whatever).

Get the parts. The lens is cheap and gimmicky. Better to hone your skills than jump on the trend bandwagon.

Bars: S&M Medium Lt or Slams
Grips: Primo V (best grips ever.)
Tires: Odyssey Dirt Path front, and Path rear (I want those new Aitken tires, when they come out)

8mm is film, but L series is DSLR...so are you confirming my notion that Flim lenses and camera lenses are interchanable?

I was referring to the focal length, not the size of the film. An 8mm fisheye is designed to project a circular image onto 35mm film, more or less. On a crop sensor, it's not a circle but it still has dark edges that need to be cropped, and/or un-distorted out. Plus I only have a still camera, no video. L-series is not only for DSLR's, it's Canon's pro series of lenses. Pretty much a guarantee you'll get great optical quality with any L-series lens, but you'll pay more. Plus you get a lot better build quality and focusing. In fact, all of the L-series lenses are designed to be used with film cameras or digital. The EF-S series of lenses are digital only, and 1.6x crop EF-S mount only (Rebel, Rebel XT, 20D and 30D).

I guess I'll be getting tires and grips at least, and possibly another set of Jim C's. I run holy rollers now, and they're OK, but I'd like to try something different.

That is correct. You can easily tell what series a Canon lens is by the ring at the front (red line, gold line or no line). L-series are the topline pro stuff and have a red line on them. The big focal length L-series are the long white lenses you see at sporting events.

For instance:

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/app/images/lens/ef400-56lu_586x225.jpg

I would love one of these:
http://consumer.usa.canon.com/app/images/lens/ef300_28lisu_586x225.jpg (http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=154&modelid=7317)

Or even the 400, but the 300 2.8 is only 3 grand. So affordable!
(lol)

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/app/images/lens/ef300_28lisu_586x225.jpg (http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=154&modelid=7317)

I used to have those bars...

Hmmm. My slowest lens is an f2.8. And yeah, my video camera used L series lenses too. Canon goodness. Spend on your bike, and save for better photo gear.

Spend on your bike, and save for better photo gear.
True that.

I just steal/borrow my parents camera, i would never dish out that kind of money for one when theres is good, and most of my freinds have nice ones...

Nice. What's your fastest lens?
My slowest is 5.6 at the long end (kit lens, which I rarely use) and fastest is the 50 1.8. I do have a 2.8 telephoto though, it's definitely worth the weight for when the light is fading.

With dirt, you need deeper tread than Ody Path tires. The Dirt Path's tread isn't all that great either.

I'm not going to be like my friend and run tires that resemble the tires from a $50 Walmart mountain bike, and have my idea of fun be sliding around and laughing at how much of a skidmark I can make because of my crappy treads. I want something that actually hooks up on pavement and metal half pipes, and I'm not going to be riding on mountain bike trails or sandy motocross tracks. Going to make trails in my backyard, but they are going to be packed in pretty well.

Nice. What's your fastest lens?
My slowest is 5.6 at the long end (kit lens, which I rarely use) and fastest is the 50 1.8. I do have a 2.8 telephoto though, it's definitely worth the weight for when the light is fading.

I have the 50mm 1.8, every thing else is 2.8 zooms. 24-70, 28-70, and 70-210. Lens speed isn't always key in low light. You need to bump up the ISO. No sense freezing action and having no depth of field.

I'm not going to be like my friend and run tires that resemble the tires from a $50 Walmart mountain bike, and have my idea of fun be sliding around and laughing at how much of a skidmark I can make because of my crappy treads. I want something that actually hooks up on pavement and metal half pipes, and I'm not going to be riding on mountain bike trails or sandy motocross tracks. Going to make trails in my backyard, but they are going to be packed in pretty well.

First of all, the Joe Dirts DO work supurbly on pavement. It's a great all around tire.

Second, I didn't mean you must run Joe Dirts, just use something with a little more tread depth even IF packed trails will be ridden.

Third, being a semi soft tire, Joe Dirts should be great for metal.

Joe Dirt tires are the best all around tire I've ever used. Far from being crap.

First of all, the Joe Dirts DO work supurbly on pavement. It's a great all around tire.

Second, I didn't mean you must run Joe Dirts, just use something with a little more tread depth even IF packed trails will be ridden.

Third, being a semi soft tire, Joe Dirts should be great for metal.

Joe Dirt tires are the best all around tire I've ever used. Far from being crap.
I wasn't referring to the Joe Dirts actually, should have made that more clear. When you said deeper tread I thought of the tires my friend runs, which after looking at the picture of Joe Dirts, have a lot deeper tread and look uglier than those. I'll consider them, thanks for the info.


I have the 50mm 1.8, every thing else is 2.8 zooms. 24-70, 28-70, and 70-210. Lens speed isn't always key in low light. You need to bump up the ISO. No sense freezing action and having no depth of field.
Heh, I see what you mean. The focus is pretty hard to get right with moving things at 2.8, I have a lot of respect for sport shooters that shoot big lenses wide open all the time and still get the shots. Is the 70-210 you have a Canon or a Tamron? I have the Tamron one that I bought used a while ago.

Tioga Comp lll for trails.

Tioga Comp lll for trails.

Or Odyssey Tires.

I wasn't referring to the Joe Dirts actually, should have made that more clear. When you said deeper tread I thought of the tires my friend runs, which after looking at the picture of Joe Dirts, have a lot deeper tread and look uglier than those. I'll consider them, thanks for the info.

If they were crap, or even a little crappy, I would surely say so. The Joe Dirt's close lug spacing is what makes it so good on street. It's thick sidewalls are pretty thick too.

I was looking into the Ody mixture too...until I saw the tread depth. The trails I ride are mostly packed, but the occasional sandy areas make it a fun challenge. IMO, no bicycle tires are that great in loose sandy soil.

Tioga Comp lll for trails.

Or Odyssey Tires.

I miss the Comp IV's!

Heh, I see what you mean. The focus is pretty hard to get right with moving things at 2.8, I have a lot of respect for sport shooters that shoot big lenses wide open all the time and still get the shots. Is the 70-210 you have a Canon or a Tamron? I have the Tamron one that I bought used a while ago.

The 70-210 is a Sigma. Most people (as in, my clients) can't tell the difference between a print from a Canon lens, and one from an aftermarket lens. Just make it sharp and properly exposed. Oh, you'll have to trust me that it's easier to shoot a football or baseball player from 30 yards+ with a big lens than it is to shoot your BMX buddies up close.

I really like Maxxis tires. Hookworms are supposed to be really sticky on the street, but heavy. Go to your LBS, and look through their catalog. Most shops can order all sorts of cool stuff that they don't stock regularly.

There's a 400mm for my Dig Rebal in my future. But I haven't done much research yet. Seems to be a lot of junk on the market.

Every couple of years Specialized come out with with a new line, and I look at them and go "hmm, not bad, interesting". Then two years later I look at them again and go "what the **** was I thinking, that sucks balls?!"

And ftr tyres, grips and the like are a purely personal choice, bretty much the only thing you can ask and get a reasonable answer on is "how long will they last?". If you're not grinding then stay away from Paths and the like, they're uneccessary.

I miss the Comp IV's!
What happend to them?

I dont know much about Tioga, but one thing i do know is that i ordered a Comp ll that claimed to be 20x2.125 and a Primo V-Monster tire that claimed to be 20x2.10 and the Primo is bigger...

I like them both, but now my bike looks goofy, but both tires are good...

Im just waiting for those Odyssey Aitken tires to come out...

What happend to them?

I dunno???

http://www.bmx-onlineshop.de/images/big/tioga_compiv.jpg

I dunno???

http://www.bmx-onlineshop.de/images/big/tioga_compiv.jpg
Why do you miss them then?
Ha

They were awesome on trails.

They were awesome on trails.
Yeah, i just looked through a Dans Comp and i dont see 'em i only see the Comp lll and Comp X, along with a beast looking Factory MX, and FS100

The MX would be great for an off-road only bike.

The MX would be great for an off-road only bike.
Its beast, i think even more burly that that Maxxis Max Daddy i had in 2.225" (it was bigger than those Ruben tires)

(the edit button didnt work, so i really meant to say 20x 2.25 on that Maxxis tire, my bad)

There's a 400mm for my Dig Rebal in my future. But I haven't done much research yet. Seems to be a lot of junk on the market.

Took me a while to figure out what a "Dig Rebal" was. So glad your wife is the one home-schooling your kid. :D Just get one of those 2 lens Sigma kits that are so cheap on ebay. Although if it's anything but wildlife, you're likely to get poor results.

Took me a while to figure out what a "Dig Rebal" was. So glad your wife is the one home-schooling your kid. :D Just get one of those 2 lens Sigma kits that are so cheap on ebay. Although if it's anything but wildlife, you're likely to get poor results.
How do you know his wife home schools his kid?

Thats weird, i just started homeschooling myself, but its just for the rest of this year...

Weird.

How do you know his wife home schools his kid?

Thats weird, i just started homeschooling myself, but its just for the rest of this year...

Weird.

I hope you work on your "speeling".

I hope you work on your "speeling".
Haha, oops again...

Maybe the forum people should incorporate Microsoft Word spell check and correction technology into their post boxes...

Like that? ^

Like that? ^
What is that pointing to? Because my forum thing is set up so the new posts are first...

I've been going in and editing your posts.

Hookworms are supposed to be really sticky on the street, but heavy.

They're Shore 70a hardness. Joe Dirts are 60a (softer).

If only the Hookworms were available in a 2.125 or 2.25...:(

Darin, the Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 lens is awesome. It's a constant 2.8 aperture, and it's great optically. I would say at least as good as the 50mm 1.8 prime, and it's a zoom. Not as fast for low light and a bit bulkier, but it rarely leaves my camera. Should be able to get one for about $400, which is a lot less than the Canon 24-70L equivelant (you get better build quality and _maybe_ slightly better image quality with the Canon)

1200mm f5.6. You used to have to write Canon a check for $79,000.00, then wait a year while they cool the glass.