"The 33"-Road Bike Racing - Cassette choice

Thinking of trying some racing.

Have 50/34 chainrings on Tarmac.

Live in hilly area, eg 127 mile ride/race upcoming has cat1 2500 ft climb at very end of ride over 5 miles (1700 ft over last 3 miles) Total >13k climbing.

Have been happy w/ 12-25 cassette so far with shorter climbs.

Spin out occasionally on 50/12, but only on steepest downhills.
Need to work on my cornering, descending technique. At this point, to hang with people faster than myself, see this as more important than 12 vs 11.

My question is, to start Cat 5 racing, do I need a 50/11?

Thanks for your help.

BTW, I'm 5'8, 145#. Climb better than descend/hammer.

For me that would be great gearing on that type of course but you should pre-ride it and see how it works for you. I just did a very simular race with that very same gearing, although I added an 11t for the long descents.

Thinking of trying some racing.

Have 50/34 chainrings on Tarmac.

Live in hilly area, eg 127 mile ride/race upcoming has cat1 2500 ft climb at very end of ride over 5 miles (1700 ft over last 3 miles) Total >13k climbing.

Have been happy w/ 12-25 cassette so far with shorter climbs.

Spin out occasionally on 50/12, but only on steepest downhills.
Need to work on my cornering, descending technique. At this point, to hang with people faster than myself, see this as more important than 12 vs 11.

My question is, to start Cat 5 racing, do I need a 50/11?

Thanks for your help.


11% av grade for the last three miles? Mercy lands.

Use the 11. Never hurts.

if you have the 11 already, by all means but you don't need it ... i use a 50/12 and it's been fine for a beginner.

11% av grade for the last three miles? Mercy lands.

Use the 11. Never hurts.

Thanks,

Actually for that specific ride and a couple others with very hilly terrain, have contemplated 13-29 (Campy has 12-25 and 13-29). I am not treating these very hilly long rides as a race.

Like my 12-25 on my Tarmac and Cross Veloce bikes.

Just got 2nd rear wheel for Tarmac as a backup and possibly for some gear variety. Could go 11-23, 12-25, or 13-39.

11-23 might want separate chain than 12-25
12-25 could use same chain/RD, but no variety.
13-29 would need separate chain; MIGHT need med cage RD

Any more opinions which cassette to choose for this second rear wheel?

http://www.mountainsofmisery.com/MoMDMCRtP.html

elevation profile of the previously mentioned ride

Campy also makes a 13/26 which might be a good option.

you will be fine with a 12-25. It is a cat 5, and so there are going to be no killer breaks that are going to occur on downhills. You would do much better to learn how to get in a STRONG aero tuck, because once you have spun out your 12 on a descent, the amount of power output it would take to make any appreciable difference in descending speed would be enormous. I have an 11-25 that I use only for hilly time trials where a second or two can be the difference, but since it is a mass start, the 11 is not going to do anything for you. Good luck and have fun.

Campy also makes a 13/26 which might be a good option.

Thanks, but 13-26 gives me less range for climbing than 13-29 and less power than 12-25.

you will be fine with a 12-25. It is a cat 5, and so there are going to be no killer breaks that are going to occur on downhills. You would do much better to learn how to get in a STRONG aero tuck, because once you have spun out your 12 on a descent, the amount of power output it would take to make any appreciable difference in descending speed would be enormous. I have an 11-25 that I use only for hilly time trials where a second or two can be the difference, but since it is a mass start, the 11 is not going to do anything for you. Good luck and have fun..

Thanks, this is what my impression was, that I'd need to work on descending technique more than would need a 50/11 combo.

Now contemplating the 13-29 for some really hilly rides. What do you think??

Let's be sure you all know I'm talking a 50/34 compact, not 53/39.

Cypress recommended the 11.

Thinking of trying some racing.

Have 50/34 chainrings on Tarmac.

Live in hilly area, eg 127 mile ride/race upcoming has cat1 2500 ft climb at very end of ride over 5 miles (1700 ft over last 3 miles) Total >13k climbing.

Have been happy w/ 12-25 cassette so far with shorter climbs.

Spin out occasionally on 50/12, but only on steepest downhills.
Need to work on my cornering, descending technique. At this point, to hang with people faster than myself, see this as more important than 12 vs 11.

My question is, to start Cat 5 racing, do I need a 50/11?

Thanks for your help.

I've been using 50-34, 11-23 all season through Cat 5, Cat 4, and now Cat 3. I've rarely used the 50-11 except on a downhill finish. I'm a pretty decent climber (5'9", 139 lbs) so 34-23 has been fine for me, but if I were doing a long climb like that, I might use the 12-25 I have on my training wheels.

.



Cypress recommended the 11.


I mix and match my cassette in a way. I bought a Dura-Ace 12-25 then threw the 11t off of an ultegra set up on there. But I'm more of a power type of guy running a 53-42 in the front.

It can be a bastard on anything past 7% grade but most races don't hit like that around here. I always have the option of throwing a 27t in the back if I see fit.

http://www.mountainsofmisery.com/MoMDMCRtP.html

elevation profile of the previously mentioned ride

The MOM route is in my back yard. I race with a 53/39 11x23 but I would use a 12x27 for MOM. So for your set up a 34/23 will be difficult on Johns Creek and Mt. Lake imo. For MOM use the 12x25 and just tuck on the down hills, for racing you will most likely want an 11.

50x12 is over 40 mph at 120 rpm. at that point on a descent your hitting so much wind resistence that additional speed from pedaling is hardly worth the energy expenditure. It is highly unlikely you'll get dropped on a desent because you don't have enough gear.

The MOM route is in my back yard. I race with a 53/39 11x23 but I would use a 12x27 for MOM. So for your set up a 34/23 will be difficult on Johns Creek and Mt. Lake imo. For MOM use the 12x25 and just tuck on the down hills, for racing you will most likely want an 11.

thanks.

Now deciding among 3 options:
1. 12-25
2. 13-29
3. IRD 12-28 or 11-28. See thread below

Like my 12-25 for almost all riding.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=192341

50x12 is over 40 mph at 120 rpm. at that point on a descent your hitting so much wind resistence that additional speed from pedaling is hardly worth the energy expenditure. It is highly unlikely you'll get dropped on a desent because you don't have enough gear.

On steep, curvy descent, I have much work to do on my technique before would benefit from 11.
Now on a long, more gradual straight downhill, MIGHT have use for 11. I tend to keep rel low cadence.
Where I live, there are more of the first type (steep, curvy).

thanks.

Now deciding among 3 options:
1. 12-25
2. 13-29
3. IRD 12-28 or 11-28. See thread below

Like my 12-25 for almost all riding.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=192341

It looks like the 11x28 will give you the best of both worlds at least for the big centuries. I think a tighter 11x21 or 23 would be better for racing though.

An 11x28 isn't going to shift very smoothly though. I use an 11x25 in the mountains and 11x23 the rest of the time.

I race on 48/34 and 11-21 or 11-23

I race on 48/34 and 11-21 or 11-23

If you can race on a 48/11 then either your races are incredibly slow or you are the world's best spinner.


And yes TJHOO an 11 would definitely be a good option for the flat/slightly downhill, tailwind/crosswind sections.

If you can race on a 48/11 then either your races are incredibly slow or you are the world's best spinner.


And yes TJHOO an 11 would definitely be a good option for the flat/slightly downhill, tailwind/crosswind sections.


Not really 48x11 is over 42 mph at 120 mph. A good sprinter can turn over 140 rpm, or more, no problem.
So 48x 11 might be a little undergeared for a UCI Protour event, but its going to serve the other 99.99% of the population just fine.

just as a reference, back in the day, I used to race on 52/45 front and 13-17 rear. 52/13 is a lower gear than 48/11, and I never lost a sprint because I spun out. I have to laugh at everybody who worries ther 53/12, or 50/11 is not enough gear for their massive legs. Just for historical perspective, there was a day when 52/14 was the standard top end ridden by some guys who could fly by anybody on this board with one leg.

http://www.mountainsofmisery.com/MoMDMCRtP.html

Ok, wait. The event you are describing is a RIDE, not a RACE. I would say that unless you are a very experience climber acclimated to very long rides, you'll want to have at least a 12-25 on the back to go with your 34 up front.

--Steve

Ok, wait. The event you are describing is a RIDE, not a RACE. I would say that unless you are a very experience climber acclimated to very long rides, you'll want to have at least a 12-25 on the back to go with your 34 up front.

--Steve

astute observation.

For this RIDE, don't need 11. In fact had been considering 13-29. At this point think 12-25 will suffice. In fact at this point am thinking 50/34 and 12-25 combo will suffice for 99.9% needs. So had LBS put on 12-25 on 2nd (backup) rear wheel. Nicely, they offered to let me have demo 12-25 cassette for the hilly ride listed above. I don't plan to use it. After this ride, could decide later on 11-23 , 12-25, 13-29, 11-28, 12-28.....for that 2nd wheel's more long term use.

Another RIDE in July has 6 mile climb w/ 1-1.5 mile climb of 22% at mile 80 of 100 in August heat. Might need 29 for that.
Have Med cage rear derailleur already on Cross Veloce, and have 2nd rear wheel for that bike too. Could put 12-28 or 13-29 for that ride.

In long run, might want 11 for racing, but I have a lot of experience to gain prior to that.

An 11x28 isn't going to shift very smoothly though. I use an 11x25 in the mountains and 11x23 the rest of the time.

Dating myself here, but recall using 6 speed 13-30 freewheel. Yes, there was a little cadence change between shifts.

Try turning a gear over at 120rpm when you are really hurting. Sprints are different.

If you can race on a 48/11 then either your races are incredibly slow or you are the world's best spinner.
Idiot, it's a bigger gear than 53/13. 53/12 is only 1% bigger.

Idiot, it's a bigger gear than 53/13. 53/12 is only 1% bigger.
Welcome back Euro...long time no see.

Dude, a 34x29 is a crazy low gear. Seriously think about a 13x26 campy cassette for a backup. You will still get a better bailout gear and have better gear spacing thanthat 13-29. No need to swap RD either. A 50x12 is PLENTY of gear for racing.

Idiot, it's a bigger gear than 53/13. 53/12 is only 1% bigger.

Who said anything about a 13? If you want to make the top 1000 or whatever then you better start doing some races where a 48/11 would be insufficient.

Good luck kid, your going to need it.

PS I'm only taking the piss because it is euro

+39 on the 11T. I have one my sone doesn't. Who do you think is going to be buying a new 11T cassetee with all the i/4 and 1/2 mile rollers where we live. He's always complaining about loosing so much ground to me on the downhills and high tailwind situations.

SRAM makes an 11-28 that would fit the bill!
NFIelds

Keeping 12-25 on the Tarmac. Think this will be optimal for tese hilly century/ double metric centuries.

Just bought Bianchi Giro 2005(primarily to have a bike at the office for impromptu and scheduled weekday rides). Has 53/39, 12-26. Got from LBS for $1100. Cassette lock ring was defective. He is planning to switch out the 12-26 cassette for a 12-27.

If I end up using the 53/12 combo much, may the put 11-23 cassette on one of the 2 rear wheels I have for the Tarmac.