Bicycle Mechanics - replacing brake calipers

I've got an old Raleigh bike that has side pull brakes. I was thinking about changing them for dual pivot brakes, probably Shimano Sora's (basic and cheap)

Now I know I have to measure the drop from centre bold to rim, but is there anything else I need to be careful of?

Any special tools that I might need to get to make life easier?

You need to remember that when putting the cable in, it should be fairly tight. If its not put in firmly then the brakepads won't touch the rim. To make this job easier, you may want to purchase the "3rd hand" brake tool. It'll pull the cable tight for you while u can tighten the allen key at the same time. This tool isn't necessary, it just makes the job quicker and easier.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/BT_1.shtml

You may also want to take a look at the cable stretcher. This is the "4th hand"

http://www.parktool.com/tools/BT_2.shtml

There is also the adjustable "3rd hand" tool.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/BT_5.shtml

If the old bike uses nutted bolt calipers,the new brakes wuil used recessed allen bolts that may require drilling the rer bridge and fork crown.

Since Raleigh has made side-pull calipers since the last ice age, it all depends on how long the reach on the clipers is. If it's a 30-year-old Raleigh, you most likely will find they don't have the reach.

There is a new/old Shimano brake available, used to be called the RX100 and now just has "shimano" screened on the arms. It is a dual pivot, it is made in the 47 to 57 mm reach (old "standard" sidepull like first generation Dura Ace, Campy, Suntour Superbe Pro, etc.) and is also offered with long centerbolts which makes it a good aftermarket brake for older frames. Another alternative if you want better brakes but your bike needs longer than a 57mm reach: Mafac Racers. Yes, stop laughing. The Mafac calipers always were good; it's just that the levers were designed for people with Dracula-length fingers and were also supplied with terrible cables and pads. I ride Mafac Competitions on my main bike and with Kool-Stop pads and lined, compressionless cable housing they'll stop ANYTHING. Besides, there are zillions of 1970's bikes just waiting in garage sales and Goodwill stores, equipped with Mafacs and selling for less than a pair of Shimano brake calipers. Do it froggystyle, you'll like the results.

Ummm....I'd go for Mafac Professional calipers over the Racer line, if you can find them. The Racers were junky.

Originally posted by Feldman
Besides, there are zillions of 1970's bikes just waiting in garage sales and Goodwill stores, equipped with Mafacs and selling for less than a pair of Shimano brake calipers. Do it froggystyle, you'll like the results. I've seen bizillions of thrift store and gargae sale bikes,and have also bought more than my share,but have never seen one with Mafac brakes.I'll keep looking.

Thanks for the info

I don't know the exact age of the bike but I suspect late 80's to mid 90's (Its a Raleigh Pursuit). I need to get the serial number and see if I can work out the date from there.

I'll measure the drop when I'm next in the shed and let you know.

Drilling the frame bit sounds a bit ominous though :eek:

You can get Shimano dual pivot calipers with nut rather than allen fittings. I use the long drop version on my 1980s road bike, and it works very nicely.
sjscycle.com seem to have a good stock of them.