Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Hollow vs solid axle

I want to convert an old Campy wheel to a single speed. Will the stock hollow axle and QR work or do I need to use a solid axle with track nuts?

Tim

It should work fine for SS, but not fixed. Most QR devices cannot be tightened enough to handle the added torque that riding fixed creates.

you can not use a quick release skewer on a a rear wheel because it does not have the proper clamping strength to hold the rear axle in place.

Thanks for the replies. Where can I get a solid axle that fits my hub? Do I really need track nuts or will anything do? The wheel is way too nice to get rid of.


Tim

Thanks for the replies. Where can I get a solid axle that fits my hub? Do I really need track nuts or will anything do? The wheel is way too nice to get rid of.


Tim

You want track nuts. Anything else will chew up your frame. Track nuts will also tighten down without trying to move your axle.

It should work fine for SS, but not fixed. Most QR devices cannot be tightened enough to handle the added torque that riding fixed creates.


1. there is no torque on the QR unless you hub is seriously ****ed.
2. There is no inherent difference in the force hte QR must resist between fixed and ss
3. There is however some difference if you skid.
4. There is also a substantial difference in the force during normal riding conditions if you are SS or fixed with a normal size cog compared to multispeed.

Therefore it is not neccessary but may be advisable to switch to a solid axle unless you are using a massive cog. If you leave both brakes on there is no real difference between ss and fg. Since a new axle is under $20 and it could't hurt to replace the bearings anyway you might as well switch to a solid axle. If not you should probably try to find a skewer with very sharp teeth.

go to the most competent lbs around you for an axle. Its easier to get it locally and you can force them to accept a return if you get the wrong one. This happened to me when I was making the change in the opposite direction.

You can run a quick release if you want -- Sheldon himself has a couple of bikes like this. I would use chain tugs if you can, though, as not being able to tighten down only one side of the axle makes setting the chain tension a real ****ache.

On the other hand, as others have said, a new axle is not that much, and you might as well swap it when servicing the hub.

<i>as not being able to tighten down only one side of the axle makes setting the chain tension a real ****ache.</i>

Its alot easier to hold a wheel in place while you clamp down a QR then it is to tighten the nut on even one side.

Yup, but most of us set our chain tension by tightening alternating sides and "walking" the wheel back. You can't do that with a QR. Not saying it's impossible to set chain tension with a QR, just that you can't use the easiest method.

Yup, but most of us set our chain tension by tightening alternating sides and "walking" the wheel back. You can't do that with a QR. Not saying it's impossible to set chain tension with a QR, just that you can't use the easiest method.

If you have to do that you are either unbelievably weak or you keep your chain to tight.

What did I say that sounded like, "Hey, let's have a pissing contest over how we put our wheels on!"?

What did I say that sounded like, "Hey, let's have a pissing contest over how we put our wheels on!"?


I didn't mean "you're unbelievable weak" as a comment on your strength rather that I couldn't believe anyone is actually that weak. On the otherhand there is substantial evidence that a large number of people in this board ride with really tight chains. Telling noobs that chain walking is easy will probably result in them riding with too tight of a chain as well.

You can run a quick release if you want -- Sheldon himself has a couple of bikes like this.
+1. Take note, if you want to use a QR, make sure it's an internal cam type. External cam QR's won't be able to withstand the necessary clamping force. Here's some photos:
Internal Cam (good):
http://www.lickbike.com/lickimages/1960.gif

External Cam (bad):
http://www.gambacicli.it/shimano_foto/Byte_quick_bloc_l.jpg

what the ****?

Since a new axle is under $20 and it could't hurt to replace the bearings anyway you might as well switch to a solid axle.

$20 isn't going to happen unless you're really resourceful or have connections.

Be prepared to spend $40 or more to swap out that axle for a campy track axle and locknuts. Mattbrown and Adamkell have both been faced with this problem. It's not going to be the simplest proceedure either, depending on which campy hub it is. If you have a c record low flange road hub I think you'll have to give up on the dream, because that thing is super weirdo. lb and sb in the same hub--wtf?

If you love the hub and want to go forward, good luck and the good folks at campy only will be of great help. Or pm ceya.. he's a campy god.

I have a similar question on this topic, so i'll just post here too. Nashbar sells these quick release type things that have bolts on the end instead of a little piston thing. They fit into a quick release type axle too, it looks like. Would it be unsafe to use these on a fixed gear setup? Or perfectly fine?

certainly better than a regular qr. not sure how it would stack up against track nuts...

Which hub?
S/F<
CEYA!

I want to convert an old Campy wheel to a single speed. Will the stock hollow axle and QR work or do I need to use a solid axle with track nuts?

Tim

If you're worried about axle slippage with QR- just get a surly tugnut- it's a chain tug which can be used with quick release. It also works well with horizontal dropouts on conversion frames.

The wheel is an old SR low flange hub laced to a Mavic CXP 30 rim. It is in excellent condition. Problem is that you can't really get much for them used so why not try to convert it.

Tim

Yup, but most of us set our chain tension by tightening alternating sides and "walking" the wheel back. You can't do that with a QR. Not saying it's impossible to set chain tension with a QR, just that you can't use the easiest method.

You mean that chains need tension? I just thought they had to not be too floppy as to fall off. Seriously, whenever I go out of my way to make the chain "tight" it seems too tight. I just take up any visible slack and tighten the bolts. I had no problem accomplsihing that task when I was using a QR.