Commuting - Minneapolis commuters - neighborhood advice

The wife, baby, and I are moving to MSP soon, never having lived there. We're trying to stay within 5 miles of downtown Minneapolis, and some of the houses we've found are located in neighborhoods either I've heard bad things about or I'm not familiar with. Can some native, non-white-flight (actually familiar with MSP neighborhoods) people offer their thougths on the following: I've heard to avoid the neighborhoods surrounding Powderhorn park (Central, Powderhorn, Corcoran, Bryant, and Bancroft) -- good advice? Within Corcoran, however, I've heard closer to the light rail is improving -- true? I've heard Phillips is hit or miss, but closer to Seward is better -- true? Thanks.

I live in the Bryant neighborhood, commute (currently) to the UofM (just east of downtown Mpls), and have also commuted from downtown back home again a bit to the west of the areas you mentioned. I'm non-native, but have owned my house in Bryant for the last 5 years and lived in the Cities for the last 11.

I gotta say that I'm looking forward to an upcoming job change that will take my commute out of those areas a bit more, but at the same time I'll miss them.

I'm afraid that all I can say is that each of the areas you mentioned is a bit hit or miss. I know some people (and have heard of plenty more) who have owned houses in Powderhorn and Bryant for decades and would never consider moving. Seward seems great, but I've never lived there, Phillips and Steven's Square areas have a history of worse reputations, but many Minneapolitans feel like crime is, unfortunately, spreading to previously "safe" neigborhoods. That was an issue in the last mayoral race.

Yeah, I read about murders and bodies found w/in 5 blocks of my daily route at a rate of at least one every 4-6 months, but I couldn't say that this is more than before, more than other (much worse) areas of the city, or that I'm not just noticing them because of my connection to the streets. I'd definitely say that you're much more likely to hear of problems north of downtown.

That said, one of the plusses (if you look at it that way) are the supposed routes running through the spots you mentioned. Park & Portland have dedicated bike lanes running all the way downtown from as far south as you can get in Mpls, but I avoid them because the same streets are informally known as in-town freeways and the drivers don't seem to care that they are going 50mph inches away from you. Plenty of commuters use those routes, but I prefer finding quieter side streets and dealing with more frequent stop signs at intersections.

The closer you live to the light rail, there is "improving" life if you want condos and converted lofts all around you. Personally that isn't for me, but theres a perfect bike route (paved, off street) that runs all along side it basically all the way downtown. You can always bring your ride onto the lightrail trains too, and all busses have 2-bike racks if you so choose in worse weather, so if you find a quieter neighborhood near the LRT (light rail), that's not a bad area. However, I also like being closer to things like the chain of lakes or Minnehaha Parkway for leisurely rides/dog-walks, and I'm afraid that anywhere close to the LRT also feels too far away from those for my liking.

'Course all of that is just my own opinion.

I live in the Standish neighborhood, immediately south of Corcoran and east of Bancroft and Powderhorn Park. We've owned our home for five and a half years. I think things are maybe a little worse than they were, but what crime there is is almost all nuisance crime -- graffiti (a really big problem the last couple of years) and petty thefts of opportunity (for example, I had a bike stolen out of my open garage when I went in the house for 10 minutes -- yes, I was stupid not to close the door). Mostly our neighborhood is quiet and safe. It's racially diverse, with a mix of families with young children, young couples without kids, and retirees who've lived in the neighborhood forever.

There still isn't what I would call a lot of violent crime (I'm hopeful that recent state and city initiatives will keep it this way), and what there is seems to be gang/drug related -- if you're not involved, you're unlikely to be bothered. Also, aside from a few high-profile cases in recent months, violent crime is mostly limited to some very troubled neighborhoods on the north side. We're all hoping that what we've seen recently is not a trend.

I live 3/4 of a mile from the bike path Glottus mentioned that runs parallel to the light rail line, and I use it on my commute of just about four miles each way to the U of M campus. I don't feel at all unsafe on my route, though as a woman, I would not want to ride it alone after dark -- but then, I don't really want to ride ANYWHERE alone after dark.

Personally, I would not hesitate to buy in Corcoran or Bancroft, and I would not rule out Powderhorn. But a lot depends on your own personal comfort level. These neighborhoods (well, not so much Bancroft, I think) tend to vary a lot almost block by block in places, so a lot may depend on the location of the particular house. As a general rule, further south is better. I don't think I would buy in Phillips, but it really is much improved over a decade ago, and there are parts of it that are quite nice. It's a really large neighborhood, so there's more variation than in some of the others. I think that generally it is true that it's better further east (closer to Seward), as you've heard.

Check out Standish and Ericsson, too -- convenient to the light rail and the ugly but useful trail that runs alongside it, easy access to Lake Hiawatha, Lake Nokomis, Minnehaha Falls, and Minnehaha Creek. All have excellent trail systems that make it a breeze to get across to the chain of lakes in SW Minneapolis, or over to St. Paul. Seward and Longfellow are a little further from downtown, but not so far as to make commuting at all problematic. I'd check them out, too, if I were you.

I think things are maybe a little worse than they were, but what crime there is is almost all nuisance crime -- graffiti (a really big problem the last couple of years) and petty thefts of opportunity ...
There still isn't what I would call a lot of violent crime (I'm hopeful that recent state and city initiatives will keep it this way), and what there is seems to be gang/drug related -- if you're not involved, you're unlikely to be bothered. Also, aside from a few high-profile cases in recent months, violent crime is mostly limited to some very troubled neighborhoods on the north side. We're all hoping that what we've seen recently is not a trend.

I'll agree to that. I guess I pay more attention to the violent crime stories because that has an effect on how safe I feel (a hefty but non-aggressive guy) biking through any area, with an occasional (once a week after classes) ride in the dark. I really hate seeing how many times I pass fresh auto glass on the ground or graffiti that wasn't there the day before, but other than that I can't really say that I've been directly bothered along my route except for very very infrequent hassling that apparently other commuters on this forum seem to get a lot. As for where to live, that really is block by block, and I definitely agree with the "farther south..." rule of thumb that staple mentioned.

I rode from S. Minneapolis (Lyndale and 38th St., Kingsfield Neighborhood) across on 38th street then north along Longfellow and Cedar (Phillips Neighborhood) to the U of M. I did this for two years (2002-2004) and the return trip was almost always at night. Nothing ever happened to me. I had a few people verbally harass me a little bit a few times such as "good evening officer" but nothing too major. Having said that, I would watch your back-side in some of those areas at night and stick to well lit (and patrolled streets). Lake and Cedar is a higher crime area but it also has a lot of police. 38th street is a nice wide street and does not have too much traffic. Total distance to UMN East bank was about 6 miles and I could do it in 25-30 minutes.

Perhaps you should start off in an apartment as you scope out the city. There are many great neighborhoods, and many of them face challenges. All of the neighborhoods you mentioned are in South Minneapolis. If you are set on a bike commute, you may want to consider Bryn Mawr and some of the neighborhoods west of downtown. These lie along the Cedar Lake and Kellilworth commuter trails; superhighways for bikes and walkers. I take them coming from a western suburb (I suppose that makes my advice suspect). You'll also want to look at NordEast. I have many friends who live in many areas of the city that are considered blighted yet they are happy and safe.

Also remember that there are parts of St. Paul within 5 miles of downtown.

If you've never lived in the North Country before, be cautious re. assuming you'll bike year round (if you're moving from Duluth, you can ignore this paragraph!). Many people do it, but it creates further challenges. There are many neighborhoods with wonderful bike lanes and public transit.

Figure out how much you can afford, then hire a realtor. It's a buyer's market now.

Good luck. It's a great area.

Bryn Mawr is indeed downtown bike commuter's nirvana, because of the Cedar Lake Trail, but it can be expensive. Certainly worth looking at if it's in your price range, though. Northeast Minneapolis, too, is a solid recommendation, especially the neighborhoods closer to Johnson St. and Stinson Blvd. There isn't as much access to trails or on-road bike lanes in Northeast, but a couple of friends of mine bike commute happily from NE Minneapolis, one to the U of M campus, one to Roseville (a first ring suburb).

5 miles from DT MPLS includes some of the best parts of Saint Paul. Look east, friend. If you insist upon a Minneapolis zip code, then look North East.

5 miles from DT MPLS includes some of the best parts of Saint Paul. Look east, friend. If you insist upon a Minneapolis zip code, then look North East.

:rolleyes: Hey, I think the OP should probably check out St. Paul and Northeast Minneapolis, but South Minneapolis is a great place to live! We're in the middle of everything, with easy access to Uptown, Downtown, St. Paul (except the east side), and the Lakes. We have light rail only blocks away and Minnehaha Falls, Ft. Snelling, and the Mississippi practically in our backyards. Plus, houses are still somewhat affordable here! :p

Lived in Stevens four years. Have worked in Phillips or D.T. since '98. I'm not anti-MPLS, I just think you get a lot more bang for your tax/housing buck over in STP. I should know, your taxes pay my salary.

Northeast Minneapolis, too, is a solid recommendation, especially the neighborhoods closer to Johnson St. and Stinson Blvd.

Finally someone mentions northeast. I've lived here 3 or 4 years and it's quite nice for commuting. Plenty of side streets if you don't like traffic, and plenty of options if you want a bigger street where you don't have stopsigns every 2 blocks. Definitely the further north and east you go the better (stinson and 29th or so is rich-folks).

5 miles from DT MPLS includes some of the best parts of Saint Paul. Look east, friend. If you insist upon a Minneapolis zip code, then look North East.

CastIron - this rings a bell with me for some reason :D .

My wife and I just moved back to MPLS after galavanting around the U.S. for 5 years. I looked at St. Paul and liked Mac Groveland A LOT but relatively few houses come up for sale there. I ended up back in South Minneapolis.

Before we moved, I lived in Bancroft for over 10 years before moving (way) out of state 5 years ago. I am back in MPLS now and Bancroft looks to be more diverse than when I left, but still OK. Bancroft, Powderhorn, Standish, Central, etc. are all in the city, so you need to watch out and not do dumb things or you might lose. I had a bike stolen out of my open garage, too. My fault and I did not leave my garage door open after that. I have never been hassled or had anything happen to me while I rode around, and I went through what was generally considered "the hood" every day.

A neighborhood I would definately check out is Seward - it is north of Lake Street and east of Hiawatha. I have a co-worker who lives there and it's mixed residential and light industry, but close to the river and the River Road.

Good luck and enjoy the hunt.

The college area on the West side of St. Paul is wonderful. Make sure you at least give it a look.

The college area on the West side of St. Paul is wonderful. Make sure you at least give it a look.

And LOTS of houses on the market this year. If you want to get a house in the upper 200's then it's a buyers' market in my neighborhood and others nearby. Condos are also a dime-a-dozen in just about any flavor you want. Way over capacity, there.

My wife and I have lived in and around Minneapolis all our lives. I grew up near Nokomis, Sally grew up near Lake Harriet. Several years ago we got an apartment at 44th and Thomas (in a building that has since been converted to condos).

After living there for five years, we purchased a house in Stillwater -- 27 miles from my work. After three years we sold the house so that we could move back into the city.

We spent a year in an apartment in the first-ring suburb of Roseville. This apartment was 7.5 miles from my work (in NE Minneapolis) and gave me my first exposure to cyclo-commuting. See my commute pictures (http://home.mn.rr.com/ryejeff/bike_commute.html) for an idea of what NE looks like.

Last month my wife and I (and our two children 4 1/2 and 2 1/2) moved into an apartment back by Lake Harrient at 42nd and Queen. We are delighted to be back in Minneapolis proper. Our apartment is on Lake Harriet, in the sought after (expensive?) Linden Hills neighborhood. We will never be able to afford to purchase a house in this area; and, we will certainly not be able to purchase a house looking at the lake the way our apartment does.

We are thrilled with our new location. We can (and do) walk to the Linden Hills Co-op for groceries; Coffee and Tea Ltd. for organic, locally roasted coffee beans; the Great Harvest bakery for bread; the library; any one of the three nearby parks; and around Lake Harriet and Calhoun. There are few neighborhoods in Minneapolis which are this walkable.

My commute to NE Minneapolis is now 10 miles, which is farther than I thought I would commute, but easier than I expected. I ride on the Kenilworth and Cedar Lake trails to downtown and then on city streets to work.

The market is more favorable to buyers than sellers right now. There is more inventory (as our realtor called it) and houses are taking longer to sell. If you do consider condos, watch out for Financial Freedom Realty. They have converted dozens of buildings in Minneapolis. Most of the time they do some minor cosmetic upgrades (new paint, cabinets, and stainless appliances) and sell the condos for a premium. They do not usually make any major building repairs. By purchasing the buildings and selling the individual condos they can avoid disclosing potential major problems at the building level -- instead leaving potential water damage or structural problems for the association to deal with later.

I would encourage renting. It may allow you to live somewhere you couldn't afford to buy. Renting also gives you the freedom to change your mind about where in the city you want to be -- or just to try out different areas before you settle on one.

Good luck with your move.

I really love south Minneapolis. My wife and I are raising three kids here and are satisfied with the way things are going. I guess the only concern is that the property values continue to rise and that also means the taxes do too. We live in the Hale-Page-Diamond Lake neighborhood. The Minnehaha Creek flows on the northern border of the neighborhood. This is a major artery/connection to the Bike and walking trails that go to what's called the Grande Round. Several of the previous postings mention this extensive and city circling trail system. As in any city, the closer to water you are the higher the prices. A lot of people think our neighborhood is too high. This is true for those who live on the creek and lakes but the prices goe sharply down off the creek with access just a block away. Two one way North/south bike lanes run to and from downtown. I've never had a problem with the fast drivers (not many do 50mph but it just take one to ruin your day)

I commute year around and I see more and more of us out each year. Within walking/biking distance are great restaurants of all price ranges and cuisine(new Sushi place this month!), books stores, liquor, pet hospital, movies, burger/beer joints, hardware, gift shops, coffee, bakery, etc. There are a lot of duplexes for rent on Chicago Avenue with rents ranging from (2BR) 750 to 1400 per month. The prices for the houses are similarily wide ranged and there are a lot of for sale signs out lately! Low 200's for a fixer upper (lots of elderly transitions) to in the 900's for some big houses on the creek. For your cage there is easy access to the freeway system and the neighbors are friendly here. More than I have experienced in other cities. My next door neigbor is from Manhattan and he is just getting used to people actually knocking on his door to introduce themselves. A Floridian friend of his who just moved to the area expressed the same. The neighbors come from a diverse group (this is Minnesota so that's a relative statement) I am not white but my wife is. Lots of mixed race couples and comfort with GLBT couples around here.

If your comfortable, let us Minneapolitans know your price range and what your looking for in a place to call home. We can give you a more specific place to go as most realtors are gonna tell you what you want to hear in this buyers market. I like Seward and Longfellow neighborhoods too. They're more "crunchy" up there, which is a good thing, and more affordable.

I grew up at 51st and 11th -- exactly the neighborhood that penanaut is describing. My brother and his wife live in a duplex on 49th and Chicago. The whole Hale-Page-Diamond Lake area is nice. Most of the streets are lined with large trees providing an attractive canopy. The one downside is the noise from the airport (especially when the planes are landing from the West); but, it is a small irritation for an otherwise great area.

Thanks for all the great info. Of all the websites and discussion boards I've frequented asking these types of questions (craigslist, Minneapolis-based blogs, etc.), bike commuters are by FAR the friendliest and most helpful. So here are some further responses:

Buying versus renting: We want to buy instead of rent even though that means jumping into a neighborhood with little experience, for three main reasons: (1) we have two small dogs, and finding a place to rent with a fenced yard is nearly impossible; (2) we have a lot of stuff since we're current owners, and we don't want to purge; (3) my new company is paying for the move, so we really want to use that to move somewhere we can stay awhile.

Price: We're coming from a very low cost of living area (i.e., the sale of our current house won't amount to much), we have a ton of school loans (professional school), we want to buy below our budget (we're fans of paying off a house early, living below our means, etc.), and my father does construction by trade (i.e., he can help fix up/remodel), so we'd like to stay at $225,000 or below. Probably seems low to you locals, but from where we're coming, that's 100K more than a nice house.

Ideally: We want to stay within about 5 miles. This is a relatively short bike commute, but with the long hours I expect to be working, I want the bike and bus commute to be short so I see my son before he goes to bed! The things we most enjoyed about other urban areas we've lived are things some of you have mentioned: walking to grocery, library, parks, bakery, etc.; diverse and friendly neighbors; people actually using the sidewalks and demonstrating that the neighborhood is not some soulless McDevelopment (like our current suburban subdivision we're in); diversity -- we'd like our children to grow up exposed to different peoples and cultures.

Finally, I'm fine with bike commuting on real roads without bike lanes. That's what I've always done, so I'm used to tailgating, being honked at, being cut off, the list goes on.

Again, thanks for the tips; I'll take them under advisement. Any further suggestions based on what I wrote are also appreciated.

Given your price range and other factors you've mentioned, joelda, I'd say that staple gives great advice. My 'hood (Bryant) fits into your budget too, but some of the places that later posts mention (Most of St. Paul, anywhere south of about 46th St., especially south and west of Nicollet Ave.) are likely to be more $ than you indicated you wanted to spend, even the fixer-uppers. Don't know much about Northeast myself. South and east, on the other hand might work for you, but I'm no expert on prices, and frankly, the closer to the airport the cheaper you get, but for a reason. That's my opinion, but when my wife and I were shopping five years ago we looked at a number of houses in areas south of 42nd St and east of 28th, for example, and the only places that fit our small budget were small houses in generally bad condition.

We might have gotten lucky, but the best condition we saw AND the best price we were willing to look at, joined up in the house we bought in Bryant. That was, however, also a different market. The only reason we weren't looking in the areas you mentioned in the original post was that we were already familiar with certain neighborhoods that we liked, and wanted to try and stay in those to be near the places we already visited frequently.

I'd say you're already on the right track with the places you mentioned, but to make sure you get a chance to look around each area if at all possible before you sign anything.

I was actually poking around the net this morning regarding the Phillips neighborhood, and there seems to be a lot of cool new development along Lake St. and with the midtown greenway. I'm eager to check it out. Having spent time in San Diego, I'd love to have some good real Mexican restaurants nearby.

joelda, that sounds accurate. Lake Street, while still very "urban" and "gritty," has become a real showplace for the growing diversity of the area. And, yes, there's lots of great (and cheap) Mexican food! It's no San Diego, but it's something. If you feel comfortable in Phillips, there are probably better housing deals there than anywhere else in South Minneapolis. Also, if you like the idea of being near Lake St. and the Greenway, I'd encourage you to take a really close look at Corcoran, which borders Lake St. and Hiawatha (where the light rail line is).

I love the Midtown Greenway. It's not part of my normal commute, but I frequently take it across town for groceries or recreation. I can actually cross town faster biking on the Greenway than I can driving my car. I can't wait until the last leg of it is finished (Hiawatha to the river).

joelda, if your still checking out your thread, I was running around doing Mothers' day Stuff after church and drove through a part of south Minneapolis that I would consider investing in. A chunk of the city west of 35W, south of 35th st, and east of Lyndale Ave, and as south as you can afford. I drove down Blaisdale Ave. after taking the family to lunch on Eat Street (Nicollet Av between 28th st and downtown)and saw lots and lots of improvements being made by home owners and businesses alike. Peace.

joelda, if your still checking out your thread, I was running around doing Mothers' day Stuff after church and drove through a part of south Minneapolis that I would consider investing in. A chunk of the city west of 35W, south of 35th st, and east of Lyndale Ave, and as south as you can afford. I drove down Blaisdale Ave. after taking the family to lunch on Eat Street (Nicollet Av between 28th st and downtown)and saw lots and lots of improvements being made by home owners and businesses alike. Peace.

That would be the Kingsfield neighborhood. I lived in it, 37th and Garfield, until last August. Nothing wrong with it at all. It is a bit less pricy than more twords the lakes but I don't think it is that cheap either. Pretty good UMN grad student neighborhood with the express buses to the U. I was not that worried about crime either. I don't know if it is that much worse than any other part of Uptown.

Thanks again to everyone for the tips. The wife and I are making a trip next week to house hunt. We do have a couple possibilities in Kingsfield, some in Phillips, 4 in Corcoran, 7 in Longfellow, and several in Northeast. I'll post next week (if anyone but me is still reading this thread) with an update (both on the house search and on general neighborhood impressions).

Keep us posted, joelda! We could end up as near-neighbors!

+1 Let us know what you decide.

An update on my neighborhood and house search. Again, thanks for everyone's comments. We ended up purchasing a house in Hiawatha, one of those one and half story bungalows. It was down to this house versus one in Powderhorn on Elliot Street. The particular block of Elliot and the neighbors seemed great, but when it came down to it, resale value was a big consideration.

My impressions of neighborhoods: Phillips (particularly east) - driving through the area both in midafternoon and at dusk, I concluded I would not want my wife and son to be walking around alone. Houses in disrepair, groups of young men hanging about doing nothing, litter everywhere. I read this area's improving, so I'd hate to see how it used to be. Powderhorn - much nicer, saw lots of families, kids, the park looked great, certain blocks really showed pride in the community. Hamline area of St. Paul - nicer further from University, but some real dumps near the main street; saw what I believe was a drug deal happening in the alley during one of our house showings. Northeast - residential, safe feeling, not much happening; fine for some, but I want a little more commercial/residential mixture. Longfellow - very nice, clean, nice little houses, coffee shops, the Riverview movie theater; walkable neighborhood, nice bike path along river and access to light rail; definately our favorite area.

My overall conclusion is that fear of crime and "bad" areas in South Minneapolis is far overblown. While I would not necessarily want to live in Phillips, a lot of that feeling is based on having a wife and baby who want to be out and about during the day.

BTW, ate at Matt's bar and had my first Juicy Lucy. Good, but I'd prefer a gool ol cheeseburger.

Have yourself some Grain Belt Beer, ride the Stone Arch Bridge and visit the Mill City Museum while your at it too. Minneapolis rules.

Congrats on finding a place in a cool neighborhood. My wife and I were looking in that area originally too. We settled in St. Louis Park.

Mmmmm Jucy Lucy. Thanks a lot I'm totally fixing for one now and it's only 9:30a.

Jucy Lucy - Shoot, me too! I'll have to convince the wife that we need to eat out sometime soon, 'cause I'll be thinking of that for the next few days.

joelda- sounds like you've done well. Also sounds like you know the Cities like a pro, too! (Musta really done your homework!) I think you'll like the area you chose, discover coffeeshops, garden shops, and more that you'll like as well. That and its a great location for commuting by bike (though same could be said for many areas around here). See you on the streets!

Also, check out the Hub bike co-op (http://thehubbikecoop.org/) if you're looking for an lbs in your new area. There are other great ones around as well closer to the U, especially. When is moving day?

Moving day is early July. Now I just need to sell the Omaha house. It's been on the market for 28 days, where the average for our neighborhood has been only about 20 days. I'm giving myself another week and half before I really start to worry about two mortgage payments.

I have two weeks after the move and before the new job to bike around and discover. Should be fun.

Congratulations, joelda! I live northwest of the Hiawatha neighborhood, over in Standish (actually just a bit south and east of Matt's Bar). This area generally has a great combination of access to light rail, convenience to downtown, and lots of rivers, parks, and lakes close by. You'll also love being just a short distance from Highland Park in St. Paul (we sure do!)

If you like fish, check out Sea Salt at Minnehaha Park. Sometimes we bike down there for a quick dinner. Excellent fish tacos!

Welcome to the area!

Congrats Brotha!

A commuter oriented shop in your neck of the woods: Hiawatha Cyclery (http://hiawathacyclery.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index)

Another cool shop, but located downtown is http://www.oneononebike.com/

I've only been there once, but it was so great. Ask to check out the basement. There's so much fun stuff down there. You could spend all week and still keep discovering stuff.

Sucks, I just looked for the "Main Map" that the Met Council used to have up, and they aren't posting it anymore. It had basically all the trails to ride within the entire Hennepin County area. I thought joelda might like to peep that since all that other homework has been done. (You might know about this already.)

This the best I can do for maps and stuff: http://www.ci.minneapolis.mn.us/citywork/public-works/transportation/bicycles/maps/index.html

Congratulations! I'm up in Seward and you'll be here just in time for the opening of the extension of the Greenway to the Mississippi!

Welcome to the neighborhood! I live about 2 blocks west of the 46th street LRT station. Hope to see you around.