Bicycle Mechanics - Fixed cup removal

Hey,
I'm hoping I don't have to do this, but my PX-10 continues to give me problems with the bottom bracket. The spindle and cups look good. I've repacked and replaced the bearings,but it still "pops" when I'm climbing hard and the left crank gets to about 10 o'clock. I'm anticipating needing to replace the bottom bracket. Are there any tricks to getting the fixed cup off. It hasn't ever been removed in 30 yrs.. Thanks for any help,Frogge.

If the fixed cup is in good shape, you might get away with just replacing the balls. If there are 9 ball-bearings in a retainer per side, you might want to discard the retainer, and replace with 11 ball-bearings and no retainer.

Are you sure the adjustment is correct? If there's even the slightest bit of slack, all the load will be on one single ball-bearing and the wear will be accelerated. Check www.parktool.com/repair/ for instructions on how to adjust the bottom bracket.

If you need to remove the fixed cup but you don't have the correct tool, but you have a good bench-vice (vise) and enough space, you might hold the fixed cup in the bench-vice (vise), and turn the frame, remembering of course that the BB might be threaded LH or RH depending on whether it's English (LH) or Italian/French (RH) threaded.

- Wil

If it's at least 30 years old, it's definitely French.

Are you shure it's not a loose left crank arm? Have you got another crank arm you could put on to see of it still "pops"?

http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

I actually just removed the fixed cup on an old Raleigh the other day using this method. It took some serious torque, but it worked. That Sheldon is a freaking genius. Give it a try. It cost me like two dollars at Lowe's to get the bolt, nut, and washers. If you have any questions about how it works exactly, just ask.

Three methods, in order of ease (easiest first):

1) Var 30 tool, with 30/2 attatchment for Stronglight cups.

2) Sheldon Brown method, post #4. When doing this, you need to turn the bolt that is actually inside the frame on a PX (french thread). A nice, deep socket is key here; pick one up when you buy the bolts. As Kurto says, serious torque is needed. Cheap, you can get the parts including the socket for less than ten bucks.

3) Bench vise. IME, least likely to work and most frustrating.

Try DD's suggestion and the others as well; it's best to eliminate some easy stuff before you try the hard...

Hey,
Thanks all. I had just repaced all the bearings and thankfully the crank arm is not loose and or worn out(I have no idea where I'd get another). The two references to BB adjustment were the most helpfull. I tightened the adjustable cup and this seems to have eliminated the problem. I hate tight bearings and I think I just had it a bit too loose. Thanks again for all the help, I really was not looking forward to getting that fixed cup off. Toodles,Frogge.

Three methods, in order of ease (easiest first):

1) Var 30 tool, with 30/2 attatchment for Stronglight cups.

This is really a lovely tool for fixed cups with wrench flats. I wish I could
justify the cost to buy one ;-(