Bicycle Mechanics - Paint removal

I saw a can of spray on paint stripper in the automotive department at Walmart. The stripper caught my eye (wink) because I've got a lugged steel frame that'd been poorly rattle-canned before I purchased it.

Has anyone had any experience with chemical paint removers?

I know its often better to leave paint on. But this chpped and uneven mess looks like crap.

The frame is nicely built and the fork appears to be all chromed under the paint. I'm also hopelessly out of control and searching wildly for yet another cycling project...

Hmm I would be skeptical paint varies so much in type and condition I dont know how well a remover would work, unless it was incredibly volitile.

A good wet sanding would be what I do, or maybe paint over it with use of a primer and a rough sanding to get rid of those chips you talked about.

If its cheap tho, wont hurt to buy it and try it and out let us know first hand how well it worked for you.

I used "rattle can" paint all the time on my 92 Camaro RS because it was so low to the groud it scraped the paint off the ground effects somtimes I think it was Duplicolor I used and it was just as nice as the factory paint.

I just finished a repaint job that started by using a brush-on paint remover. It's a kind of messy process and it's a bit time consuming but, if you are planning to do everything yourself, that's what I recommend.

I don't know where you got the idea that it might be better to leave the old paint on. If you want a nice even finish, you simply have to start with a nice even surface. Your finished result can never be any better than your surface preperation.

Dude. A paint stripper will save you sooooo much time if you don't have a sandblasting set-up. Use the paint-stripper, leave overnight, scrape some off. Repeat the next night. Should get most of it off. The little that is remaining, just sand it off. Can you imagine sanding the whole frame off without any paint stripper?! DUDE! You'd be there forever!

It is messy. Just remember to lather that stripper on THICK! It works way way way better that way.

^ I sanded a whole frame the other day. It took a couple of hours, mostly, b/c I got some cheap sandpaper to start. The 3M 320 grit paper worked faster and obviously left a better surface than the cheap 220 grit. The 3M paper also lasted longer. I'd get 3 sheets of 3M 220 and 3 sheets of 3M 320 (it's labled for between coats). It shouldn't take too long. I also got a respirator, on the off chance that the paint had lead in it, and just to save my lungs. The corners are the hardest part, but they are probably hard w/ stripper too.
But, it seems like you are trying to leave the chrome. I saw some sites about that. Google bike restoration, and you will likely find some tips about that. The rattle can paint should come off easier than the original, so the right strength stripper may be able to uncover the original paint.

Reading these messages has answered a few questions for me.
I've just got my hands on a 3-speed steel folder. I've cleaned & relubed the chain, polished the chrome & applied some lube where needed. I'm going to replace the saddle & seatpost with a new quick-release one. The paintjob is alright, but would look better if repainted.
So I'll need some paint-stripper & then need to sand the rest of the paint off. What's the best sort of paint-stripper & paint to use. What's the best way to do it?
Keeping in mind, this is my first time doing this sort of thing.

Reading these messages has answered a few questions for me.


Me too. Thanks.

I was leery about the sandpaper because of the chrome fork.

I'm giving it a go. I'll post results, with pics, in a couple of days.

If the frame has any rust, you should go for bead blasting. I have a frame that I rattle canned twice after stripping with paint stripper and thoroughly going over the rusted parts with sandpaper and the rust still came through after a few months.

Before the last rattle can I had it bead blasted and so far no rust after over a year.