Classic & Vintage - Follow-up on 1928 CCM restoration; help needed

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NDG
05-22-06, 03:39 PM
A week ago I posted some pics about this vintage CCM. According to the serial number, it should be a 1928 model. I started taking it apart to re-pack the hubs and clean everything up. There were some questions about the type of hubs:
1- The front hub just says "CCM" on it.
2- The rear hub is a coaster. The writings say "New Hercules Brake", with one patent number and another line that says "Parent pending". See picture below. Do these inscriptions fit with the predicted age of the bike? I managed to completely take it apart, clean it, grease it and put it back together (see picture). My first time with this type of hub.

I have not yet cleaned up the bottom bracket because I don't quite understand how to take it apart. Please see the pictures below. What would be your suggestion?

I took the chain off. It is VERY rusty, so I think that I need to change it. What type of chain is needed?

See also the picture of the seat. Ever heard of this company? I am wondering what to do about the rusty springs that are below it. Should I just brush them with a steel brush and leave them like that or should I paint them black? What could have been the original look?

I would appreciate any suggestions.


divineAndbright
05-22-06, 03:55 PM
To remove the crank; stick a screw driver in one of the holes on the washer nut (the one that says ccm) and bang the end of the screw driver with a hammer (same direction you took the nut off), it'll loosen and you can unthread it with your fingers from there, once you unthread it you can pull the crank out from the other side out of the crank housing (you need to remove at least the left pedal by the way, the whole crank system with the sprocket is all connected together; beautiful), you will have to remove the bearings also before you can get it out as they get in the way, simple.

I wouldnt paint the saddle springs, just soak em in oil, the springs were probably chrome tho, Dont be afraid of rust... Im sure you can still use the original chain if you soak it over night in oil or kerosene.

You might be able to buy a replacement chain if you want I guess (i forget the "size"), but it will be labeled for single speed bikes, dont get one for a derailer bike it wont work. Hope its long enough though, thats a 28" bike with a pretty large front sprocket, most single speed chains today are sold for BMXs.. so I would really advice you try to use the original chain if you could.

If that doesnt work you can try to find another old 28" single speed bike as a donor and use its chain.. if you dont know where to find one I would suggest the dump.. or post a want ad looking for old rusty single speed bike, im sure you can buy one cheap enough. You might need a mens model as girls model bikes usually had smaller sprockets which means a shorter chain.


PS: do the bearings in the crank say "Hartford USA 64" on them? I just ask as every crank set bearings ive seen so far have been that type, from my oldest bikes to some little kids bikes ive taken apart. (same size crank housings!)

OLDYELLR
05-22-06, 04:48 PM
Here is Sheldon Brown's step-by-step procedure to dissassemble those Ashtabula cranks: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html


NDG
05-22-06, 07:04 PM
Thanks for the tip.
Will try that within a day or two.
Is there not a special tool that one can use instead of a screwdriver?

Will try to salvage the chain, but I have doubts about this one. If a new single gear chain is not long enough, I guess I can always buy two and add a piece of one to the other.

I will look for the name of the bearings in the crank and let you know. I think that I saw sonething like hartford on the bearing sets in the rear wheel hub.




To remove the crank; stick a screw driver in one of the holes on the washer nut (the one that says ccm) and bang the end of the screw driver with a hammer (same direction you took the nut off), it'll loosen and you can unthread it with your fingers from there, once you unthread it you can pull the crank out from the other side out of the crank housing (you need to remove at least the left pedal by the way, the whole crank system with the sprocket is all connected together; beautiful), you will have to remove the bearings also before you can get it out as they get in the way, simple.

I wouldnt paint the saddle springs, just soak em in oil, the springs were probably chrome tho, Dont be afraid of rust... Im sure you can still use the original chain if you soak it over night in oil or kerosene.

You might be able to buy a replacement chain if you want I guess (i forget the "size"), but it will be labeled for single speed bikes, dont get one for a derailer bike it wont work. Hope its long enough though, thats a 28" bike with a pretty large front sprocket, most single speed chains today are sold for BMXs.. so I would really advice you try to use the original chain if you could.

If that doesnt work you can try to find another old 28" single speed bike as a donor and use its chain.. if you dont know where to find one I would suggest the dump.. or post a want ad looking for old rusty single speed bike, im sure you can buy one cheap enough. You might need a mens model as girls model bikes usually had smaller sprockets which means a shorter chain.


PS: do the bearings in the crank say "Hartford USA 64" on them? I just ask as every crank set bearings ive seen so far have been that type, from my oldest bikes to some little kids bikes ive taken apart. (same size crank housings!)

NDG
05-29-06, 09:06 PM
Just finished cleaning the bottom bracket.
Looking closely at the crank axle, I saw that "CCM 220" was written on it. Wonder what that means.
I also looked more closely at the pedals. On the side, it says "Patent, July 10 1923". These are therefore probably the original pedals. They are all metal. No black rubber blocks like in many platform pedals. Is it likely that there was rubber initially or is it possible that at the beginning of the century, there was none?

OLDYELLR
05-30-06, 04:22 AM
It almost looks like there should have been some kind of rubber blocks in the pedals, because the metal frame at the back and front is not as high as the barrel.

oldy57
05-30-06, 04:40 AM
Those pedals are Gibson alluminum pedals. The blocks are black rubber and say Gibson on them. The pedals were used from the early 20's into the 50's with 1923 on them. The blocks are available new from someone in Toronto but I don' know who. Quite a while ago someone told me they were being reproduced by someone but they were somewhere around $60 so I did not go any further.

NDG
05-30-06, 09:24 AM
I would certainly appreciate hearing from anyone who can help with finding source for such rubber blocks.


Those pedals are Gibson alluminum pedals. The blocks are black rubber and say Gibson on them. The pedals were used from the early 20's into the 50's with 1923 on them. The blocks are available new from someone in Toronto but I don' know who. Quite a while ago someone told me they were being reproduced by someone but they were somewhere around $60 so I did not go any further.

Gurgus
05-30-06, 09:33 AM
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=SPA%2D2