Bicycle Mechanics - Are you using chain wax or oil?

I would like to know who uses chain wax. I mean the spray type where you first clean the chain with all its grease, dirt, etc. and even use varsol, etc. to get a very clean chain. Then spray it with chain wax so that the inner roller pins get the wax because the carrier has a very thin viscosity and quickly evaporates. Then wipe the chain links and rollers of any excess wax (if you don't, dirt will adhere to the wax). This is the procedure I have used on my motorcycles and bicycles -- the chain is almost never dirty with black stuff. :( I have tried oil and oil-based chain spray as well as graphite sprays with poor response (the chain is always dirty after one ride). I have also melted parafin wax and dumped the chain in the wax bath -- but it is a hassle and takes a lot of work cleaning the wax off the links etc. As I understand it, lubrication needs to be inside the chain where the pivoting takes place, not the exterior. Drops of oil on a chain doesn't seem to get into the rollers as well as some chain lubes, esp. chain wax So, what has been your experience with lubricating your chain?

OIL......1 part motor oil or synthetic to 3 parts mineral spirits.Gets were it needs to get.Wipe off excess.Carrier evaporates.Your wax stuff probably works the same.Idea is to get rid of excess so as not to create buildup,and attract nasties.

White Lightening, it's the only way to go.

I also think you may have a tough time getting the spray wax into the pin/bushing area where it is actually doing what it was intended to do. My 2¢...

Motorcycle O-ring chain has small O-rings to seal in the lubricant in the roller pins. That would be ideal for bicycles because you would never need to lubricate your chain, but the size would be prohibitive. The idea of spray chain lube (whether wax or grease) is that the carrier is very "thin" and is supposed to seep into the pin area. When it sets up and dries, it leaves behind a thicker substance. As an experiment spray some on a counter top and leave it for the day. At first spraying it has the consistency of penetrating oil; but the next day it is like grease.

White Lightning.

Originally posted by Greg
White Lightning.

For those of us in dry climates, I agree completely. However, I am told it does not hold up well in the rain.

Originally posted by fubar5
White Lightening, it's the only way to go.
Fubar,
I am sorry to disagree with you on this one, I have use that stuff, its not good for I high cadence pedaling, you will just tax your chain to the limit, I am using this campagnolo Chain Oil, although after everyride you have to clean your chain, but its worth it..

What about Pedro's Ice Wax?

Originally posted by kewlrunningz
What about Pedro's Ice Wax?

This is what I use but I can tell you from experience that it doesn't last long... couple of days at best....... but it's as smooth as silk when you first put it on.
I don't buy it's claim of cleaning the chain b4 it sets up though. I pulled the chain off my two wheeled giddy-up last week after 6 months of using the stuff and it was EXTREMELY dirty. I have found that a can of .87 cent cab cleaner from wally world works great... chain looked new when finished. I used heavy duty industrial orange cleaner on it first and it barely dented the grub... the carb cleaner was like magic... maybe because of the wax content of pedro's?????
Doug

White Lightning has worked best for me

For what it's worth...count me amongst the Pedro's Ice Wax users. Does require frequent reapplication but maintenance is a labor of love.

I use Krytech liquid wax lube on my road bike only, and clean the chain anytime it get really wet. Wax lubes don't last long in wet conditions.

I have a terrible time with White Lightning and Race Day clumping and setteling if I don't keep them realy warm, like in doors!
What is a good alternative?:confused:

Is your better half that strict to where you can keep a small bottle of lube under the kitchen sinK? tsk tsk

I use Maxima Chain Wax which is produced by Maxima Products, Santee California. I got it at my local motorcycle shop to do double duty on my motorcycle as well as my bicycle. It says, "This heavy-duty water displacing film allows greater protection especially in water and high humity environments." Unlike some of the other spray wax mentioned in previous posts, this wax does seem to work good in wet weather. I don't sell this product, nor do I have shares in the company:D

Originally posted by uciflylow
I have a terrible time with White Lightning and Race Day clumping and setteling if I don't keep them realy warm, like in doors!
What is a good alternative?:confused:

I use, and love, White Lightning. You're right though, the stuff cannot be applied in cold weather. I read a first person account of someone who tried to overcome this problem with a lighter. Don't try it. Rather than melting the wax into his chain, as he hoped, he set his chain on fire. Was that in Bicycling Magazine or Dirt Rag? Hmmmm.

Anyway, in the winter months, I use good old Phil's Tenacious Oil. Chainring tattoos don't show up on my tights anyway.

White Lightening, it's the only way to go.

when i tried White Lighting on my old bike equipped with Shimano 600, i found that the chain starts to rust. i wont be using it on my Dura Ace chain, thats for sure.

Why does my chain rust:confused:

Slick1:p :p

Yes, Pedros Ice Wax requires more than frequent application. About a month ago I think I put it on everyday for the whole month, and my chain was squeaking by the end of every ride! It was working well for me, but for some reason, the wet or whatever, it just wasn't cutting it last month.

I switched over to using Shimano's HypoSpit, and that's been working okay so far, but it seems to attract some dirt.

Is your better half that strict to where you can keep a small bottle of lube under the kitchen sinK? tsk tsk

It's not her!:eek: It's that I store my bike in an unheated shed behind my house and find it a PITA to have to cary the bottles in and out of the house instead of just leaving them on the shelf. I was wondering if there is some alternate lube that won't have to be taken in and out of the house?:confused:

In my opinion, and experience, paraffin lubes are not as "slippery" or as long-lasting as oil or teflon/PTFE/whatever based lubes. Once the carrier evaporates, the paraffin wears off the friction points, and since it's a solid, it can't flow back on. But it's your best choice if you want a sparkling chain. Just lube often. I think some of the paraffin based lubes add some teflon. If not, you might try mixing some Finish Line w/a paraffin lube to make your own.

I use White Lightning

the trails around here are very dry and dusty, so I have to re-apply every 3-4 rides. I do like the fact that it doesn't attract dirt, but it is hard to clean off and so seems to build up after a while, and I would like it to last a bit longer too.

NO WAX HERE!!!!
EVERY expert I've talked to ( including a mechanic who worked the Giro for 7-11) and all the credible articles I've read contend that wax does not give a full and/or lasting coat on the metal nor does it pentetrate at all. Petroleum, Teflon and Silicone and combinations of the above, only used here,

Ride Slick
pat

Since I sometimes let one bike go used for awhile, while I ride a second bike- it seems to me; the lubricant must dry even when unused..
What worries me, I lube a bike before a ride, thinking it will be ok- and either on the first or second ride, I hear a squeek. Must be, I do not apply the lubricant evenly? Seems, the amount, I apply is pretty generous . I use either Pedros Dry Ice or Pro Link. Pro Link is recommended by my Klein Manual... Sometimes these products, seems to not apply evenly?
I think, when White Lightning in fact squirts out the bottle, it does do the best job of being applied thoroughly.. But overall, I do not like the product. Guess, because of the problem I have had with clumping.. I should always carry a bottle of lubricant( convenient 3 oz. size), for when unexpected squeeks develope..

I used white lightning in both the original form and the raceday formula for a long period of time. They seemed to work great most of the time but washed off easily. I am now using Pro Link which contains MFR (metal friction reducer). There has been a noticeable difference in chain wear since I began using it. It runs pretty clean too and holds up in the wet. Check out http://www.progoldmfr.com/ for more info.

-Ryan

I use White Lightning as well and it works pretty well.

The only problem is you have to use a fair amount, and the stuff is not that cheap.

What is White Lightning exactly? Is it Teflon in some carrier? How is it made? I've tried to make it but can't find any Teflon that is suitable for the job :(

Originally posted by Zircon
[B]What is White Lightning exactly? Is it Teflon in some carrier?[B]
Basically, it's paraffin (aka wax) kept in a liquid form by a chemical carrier. When you put it on your chain, the carrier evaporates, leaving the wax.

Maybe Finish Line KryTech “Wax” Lube would be a good compromise between lubrication and shiny chains. The web page says "DuPont's metal bonding Krytox® lubricating film in combination with M2 molybdenum, specialized waxes, and more, make KryTech even slicker, quieter and longer lasting." I have no first-hand experience with it.

I just don't like White Lightning. It's too liquid and drips on the floor, in between the gogs and into the rear der. I also find it clumps and clogs in the bottle.

I use Pedros Ice Wax exclusively. However, for best results it's best to lube AFTER your ride, and you must lube frequently. Every two or three rides in dry weather. Like most was lubes it's pretty much useless after an hour in the rain.

If you lube just before you ride it doesn't have time to penetrate and set up. So, as soon as you begin pedaling its just flung off.

I put a drop on each roller individually. It takes a few minutes, but wastes less. Then run the chain backwards a few cranks and go shower. Wipe off the excess right before your next ride.

Originally posted by WoodyUpstate
However, for best results it's best to lube AFTER your ride, and you must lube frequently.
That's a good point, and it applies to all liquified, paraffin based lubes.


Every two or three rides in dry weather.
See! Wax is just a mediocre lubricant!! With Tri-flow, if it's dry, I clean and re-lube once a month!!! (Granted, I'm a roadie, others may not be so lucky. ;))

Plus, I can sport that handsome chainring tat' on my right calf. "Mines a '53. What's yours?"
:beer:

I use Tri-flow for both wet and dry conditions. Living up in Wa State its very wet in winter and very dry in summer. Tri-flow, for me, works well in both conditions for my road bike... but its more expensive than white lightning.

I have just started using an industrial dry lube called CRC 3-36. It goes on wet and takes overnight to dry but seems to do a good job. It is also very good at preventing water adheasion and rusting, corrosion.
Has anyone else tried this product?

ps. It smells good also.:D

I just got back from my lbs and we talked about different lubes. Most of the techs there use either Tri-flow or T9. They also have had some complaints about using white lightening...it gets too gummy and comes off to easy when its wet out.

Go to Branfordbike.com for some explaining on oil vs. wax. The way I see it the wax quiets the chain a bit because it is thicker. It might even seem smoother because there is less sound from it. The oil moves around on the chain so when it is squeezed out of a place where there is preasure it can move back in when that part of the chain is returning on the bottom of the loop. If it's wet the oil is going to keep the preasure points wet. The wax, especialy the hard waxes, don't move back into the preasure point of the chain after it is squeezed out. Maybe a small amount does stay on the surface, but the force on those areas are pretty high. The problem with the oily stuff is it gets dirty so fast. Another area of compromise. AAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!:crash: :crash: :D

Go to Branfoedbike.com and go to lubes or something similar. They explain the oil/wax stuff really well I think.

Sorry about the misspell. That's Branfordbike.com..

HEYHEY u cant go wrong with GT85 spray at halfords teflon based water displacer but lubes real well. ultra slippy so dont drown your chain in it!!

Here are the articles on the chain lubes from www.Branfordbike.com and some of their recomendations...

Wet, semi-dry or dry? Which chain lube is best?
The primary purpose of any chain lube is to form a thin, flexible coating on your chain and sprockets in order to prevent any direct, metal to metal contact. The best chain lubes reduce friction by constantly flowing around and over the intermeshing metal parts of your drive train.

Wet Chain Lubes
Wet chain lubes go on wet and stay wet. They are similiar to the oil used in most cars but a little thinner in consistancy. Wet lubes remain as a fluid; they constantly respond to the intermeshing movements of your chain and cogs. They almost eliminate metal to metal contact. Friction is reduced to a minimum while component longevity and performance is greatly increased. For smoothest shifting and greatest performance wet lubes are the best choice. However, wet lubes tend to pick up dirt easily and require frequent cleaning. We recommend wiping the entire drive train after every ride with a soft cloth and Le Tour Cycle Clean to remove excess lube, splatters and dirt.

Campagnolo has officially discontinued their chain lubricant. For all Campy chain lube fans, we suggest using Le Tour chain lube in the drip bottle. Le Tour Chain Lube will protect your Campagnolo 7, 8, 9 or 10 speed drive train while providing you with smooth shifting and greater performance. It is especially effective on 10 speed drivetrains which are subject to greater wear.

The secondary purpose of a good chain lube is to be low maintenance; not an easy goal to achieve on the open drive train of a bicycle. All of the chain lubes we carry work well as lubricants. Unfortunately there is a direct trade off between low maintenence and the best performance. Wet lubes provide the highest performance but require meticulous cleaning. Dry lubes require more frequent applications but perform well in muddy, wet conditions. Semi-dry chain lubes achieve the best balance between performance and maintenance.

Semi-dry Chain Lubes
Semi-dry chain lubes go on wet and then start to dry. They contain additives like Teflon which strongly adhere to bare metal. Semi-dry lubes retain fluid characteristics; they constantly respond to the intermeshing movements of your chain and cogs. Like wet lubes they almost eliminate metal to metal contact. For smoothest shifting and greatest performance wet lubes are the best choice. However, semi-dry lubes tend not to pick up dirt and require less frequent cleaning.
We are particularly impressed with the Le Tour chain Lube. It was originally designed as a chain lubricant for industrial chains and chain saws. Now they adapted their semi-dry lube to the rigorous needs of cyclists. Le Tour goes on wet, foams rapidly into links and pins and drys to a semi-viscous fluid. It is impervious to water and requires little maintenance. We have used Le Tour chain lube for over 12 years and highly recommend it. It is especially effective on Campagnolo 10 speed drivetrains which demand a premium lubricant.

Dry Chain Lubes
Dry chain lubes go on wet, then quickly evaporate while leaving behind a soft, waxy lubricant. Dry lubes start as a fluid but end up more like Jello. They do the poorest job of lubricating because the intermeshing of your chain and gears pushes the waxy lube out of the way. Metal to metal contact is more common with dry lubes.
For smoothest shifting and greatest performance wet or semi-dry lubes are a better choice. However, dry lubes pick up very little dirt and are a necessity for muddy or wet trails. We recommend frequent application when using any dry lube.
ProLink is our favorite dry lube. It requires less frequent application, wears well and does not easily wash off. Unlike waxy dry lubes, ProLink bonds directly to the bare metal surfaces and stays in place until it wears off.

I've used "dumonde" tech or something like that lately(the last few rides). The main thing is to do clean and lube frequently, that will work better than any lube on a chain that isn't well maintained.

I use tri-flow along with the other mechanic at my store and the other 4 mechanics at our sister store.

How do you process your mechanics? Do you render some of their fat or just their blood?:D

I went from Triflow (chain too dirty) to White Lightning (chain too noisy) to Pdero's Ice Wax (worked great but had to reapply before every ride) to Prolink. I read about Prolink in Bicycling Magazine. They loved it and I love it. It is a metal treatment. I find that it lasts a long time and keeps my chain both quiet and clean. The one downside is that it does not prevent rust, so if you ride when it is wet, you need to dry your chain as soon as you end your ride.

What works extremely well for me is synthetic motor oil. Since I do my own oil changes I allways have the familiar problem with getting the last little bit of oil out of each bottle. What I do is to turn each one upside down over night and then pour the remainder into an old contact lens solution bottle. I use this "reclaimed" oil for a variety of purposes and found that it seems to be particularly well suited to bicycle chains. The spout on the bottle allows me to apply one drop at a time to each link. I admit it is somewhat messy, but it seems to resist water pretty well and as long as I wipe off the excess, it doesn't collect too much dust. I do this twice a month, or more frequently if required and have had nothing but good luck with it.

I change my oil in my car with syn. oil too. 220 mi. on the original trany/engine so far, and it's a dodge( bike box) caravan. I'm going to try your idea out. I'm pretty fastidious about a couple of my bikes so keeping the chain clean isn't a problem. Just between you an me, I regrease sealed bearings.

I tried the paint thinner/synthetic motor oil mix and so far, on the kids bikes, it's working great. (man kids are tough on bikes, my 10 YO gernaded his rear alivio sp? hub.... had to completely rebuild it)
I'm gonna go on a ride here in about an hour and am anxious to see if the chain runs quiet.
I mixed the cocktail: 1 part oil to 3 parts paint thinner. I bought an inexpensive ketchup kinda bottle at wally world that has a replaceable cap that seals tight. If this works it sure will be an inexpensive method to keeping the chain running smooth.
Doug

I tried Valovoline 10-30 motor oil on my chain. Lubricates great, but it sure attracts the dirt fast!

synthetic auto bearing grease, designed for winter use, it lasts long and doesnt collect any dirt. Im very pleased with it.

Originally posted by urbanking
synthetic auto bearing grease, designed for winter use, it lasts long and doesnt collect any dirt. Im very pleased with it.

How could this goo not collect dirt?

Bullsauce, eh Pokey?

How could you get bearing grease inside the chain rollers? Isn't it to thick? :crash: :confused: :rolleyes: :D :p

Bullsauce really works great and it doesn't collect any dirt:D

How could this goo not collect dirt?

Especially up in Sudbury, of all places!! For you Californians not acquainted with northern road maintenance procedures, the Ontario provincial snowplows dump a lot of sand on the highways there, and a lot of it sticks around through most of the summer, too.