Mountain Biking - Help with buying bike.

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View Full Version : Help with buying bike.


OaklandR
01-13-03, 07:35 AM
Hi, I am new to mountain biking and am looking to buy a new bike. I have been riding my Dad's mountain bike for a couple of months that he bought at Montgomery Ward's 5 years ago. I know laugh at me (or feel bad). :)

I am looking to spend no more than $330.00 The two bikes I am looking at now are:

2003 Specialized Hardrock
2003 Diamondback Response


Which would be the best choice? I don't have much to spend now and want to see if I will stick with the sport. I am willing to upgrade parts down the road so the frame is most important. The bike stores here have 1 year free tune-ups so I want to buy new and not deal with the chance of buying a used bike and having problems. As I get some experiance with bikes I can look at that later. Anyone have any good experience with these bikes?

Thanks

David


Dannihilator
01-13-03, 07:58 AM
Well, I'm not too familiar with Diamondback, and I have rode Specialized before and it's a fun bikes, I would say go for the specialized Hard Rock. Also take a look at some Giants if there's a dealer in your area.

a2psyklnut
01-13-03, 08:24 AM
For the bikes in your price range, you will find a lot of similarities from manufacturer to manufacturer. I suggest riding as many different bikes as you can (visit ALL the shops in your area) and find the one you're most comfortable on.

Others to consider: Giant, Gary Fisher, Trek, KHS, Jamis, K2, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Haro....etc.

L8R


slcpunk21
01-13-03, 12:47 PM
Look at specialized and giant, trek, haro...they give you quite a bit for your money, or if you can find any last years models...that would work for ya too. Diamondback has become a difficult company to deal with ever since the company that builds raleigh bikes is now building them as well. The product that comes outa the boxes isn't nearly as good as it used to be. Also on the warranty side...it's a bear to get them to warranty stuff! I've worked in quite a few shops that used to deal diamondback and they have now dropped their lines since they are that hard to deal with.

Just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. :crash:

OaklandR
01-13-03, 06:21 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Fast responses here. :)

What is the benefit of getting the Hardrock Cr-Mo vs the standard Hardrock?

What I can tell the Cr-Mo is a steel alloy frame and has a lower line of Shimano components.

Is the steel frame not as good as the aluminum one?

I am a casual rider and don't plan on a lot of big drops. If I stick with it I can upgrade components later on. From what I can tell by talking to people and friends the fork will be the first thing I will upgrade.

It is nice to talk to you guys. I have a hard time talking to workers at the bike stores. Right when I walked in the store and told them I was interested in the Hardrock (basic) he was already telling me to go with the Hardrock Comp for $100.00 more. As I have found out just like anything you can raise the price easy.

The other day I road my friends new Stumpjumper and loved it. $1000 Is a bit steep right now.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

David

Dannihilator
01-13-03, 06:36 PM
I'd just get the standard.

iamlucky13
01-13-03, 06:42 PM
The cro molly steel is going to be a slightly heavier frame, although some people do like the the way a steel frame feels a little better. It usually doesn't cost much to upgrade from steel to aluminum. The slightly higher end components definitely make it worthwhile.
Whether you get it or not, I would give the hardrock comp consideration. It will go the next step up in components, have a better shock, and probably have better wheels and tires as well.
Incidentally, I've ridden the hardrock a few times and been fairly well satisfied with its performance as a basic hardtale. It has a solid feel and a fairly good geometry (although I did have to concentrate to keep the nose on the ground on a lot of climbs).
One last thing to consider: if you plan on dedicating alot of time and energy into this hobby, you should always consider bikes a step or even two steps above the one that appeals to you. You may find yourself wishing you had gotten a nicer bike in the not to near future. On the other hand, don't drop too much money on your bike if it's just going to spend time in the garage.
later

MikeOK
01-13-03, 06:48 PM
Welcome to the forum Oak. As for alum vs cromo, there are some big differences. Aluminum is obviously lighter, but also a lot more rigid. In a hard tail I actually prefer cromo to aluminum because it usually has a plusher ride. Good luck with whatever you get and there's nothing wrong with a Mont Ward bike, it has 2 wheels, right? Ride and have fun, no matter what you end up with.

slcpunk21
01-13-03, 06:51 PM
i agree with iamlucky13...he summed it all up pretty well. Just adding a little to the steel and aluminum frame here:

steel/cro-mo frame will ride a little different as in, it flexes a little more than the aluminum. This isn't always a bad thing! I have found that on long rides...like 3 hours or more the cro-mo frame is nice! Doesn't beat you up as much.

aluminum frame is stiffer and will accelerate a little faster, honestly don't know if you'd notice it even. You will feel it in performance though, it'll feel like it responds faster in corners and tight sections. The frame will probably be a bit lighter.

Well that's about it...

I'd say go with the aluminum because of the upgrade components! OR like iamluck13 says...look up a model or two. I know it's tough to scrounge up a little extra cash but in the long run it could be worth it! Or like I said before look at a last years models that would be a few models up from what you're looking at...get a better bike for less money, sounds good to me!

OaklandR
01-14-03, 10:26 AM
Thanks for the feedback.

How about the Giant Yukon? It has a higher retail price, but I have seen it sold cheaper on reviews from mtbreview.

I only have 1 Giant dealer here that I know of. I will have to check it out.

Thanks

David

a2psyklnut
01-14-03, 11:25 AM
If you do a search on this forum, you will find the Giant Yukon commented on numerous times. All have only positive things to say.

L8R

OaklandR
01-16-03, 09:16 PM
I am trying to decide between the Hardrock and Hardrock Comp.

The only difference is the fork on Comp is a Judy TT and has the next step up in componets (derailleurs and levers).

Is this worth the $100.00 to upgrade?

With the Basic Hardrock I might have to get different springs in the fork because they are a little soft. They said that would be about $30.00. So really a $70.00 upgrade.

Or should I save my money on Comp for now and get new fork down the road?

tFUnK
01-17-03, 03:58 AM
i say you should get as basic a bike as you are willing to get. later down the road when it's time for a new bike you will wish you did not spend as much as you did for your first bike. at least that's from my experience, i dont know about others'.

a2psyklnut
01-17-03, 07:29 AM
It's a bit of a gamble.

One school of thought is to get the cheapest and ride it to the ground. Upgrade as parts break. This is a cheaper initial investment until you decide if you're really into this sport.

Another, is to buy a bike above your ability, so as you improve from the beginner phase, your bike will be able to keep up with your ability. This actually saves money in the long run, as resale of "entry-level" bikes is poor, and then you've got to buy another more expensive model in a year or so.

My choice? I say go cheap and upgrade. The first year or so as a begginer, you not only learn bike handling skills, but you soon determine your "STYLE". IOW, are you a XC geek, are you a FR basher, are you Urban/DJ, or are you a DH demon!

Now, if you "KNOW" already you want to be a XC racer or ....?, then I would suggest getting a "upgraded/better than current ability" bike for your specific style.

I hope this didn't confuse you more.

L8R

slcpunk21
01-17-03, 08:41 AM
I agree....dont go to cheap though because then you could start breaking stuff and that alone makes mountain biking not fun when you first start if you are always having to fix something on the trail.....usually when you first start you don't have a clue how to fix it so you end up walking

So if you go to cheap on a bike it may cause you to not want to continue doing the sport... just my thought.

Dont get to caught up in what to buy...no matter what you will(emphasis on will) end up upgrading sooner than you think! Hell as long as you are out riding that's all that really matters!!
:beer:

jekyllrider
01-17-03, 09:01 AM
I know its another hundred bucks, but if you are leaning toward Specialized, take a look at the Rockhopper-because of the fork. Lats spring, friend of mine bought a last years (might have been a '01 holdover) which came with a Judy TT and it developed bushing play within the first month. Now it it bad enough that he is going to buy a new fork. But...he rides it alot, which as stated before, should be a consideration. If it may become a hat rack in your bedroom, only spend what you think you can justify.

slcpunk21
01-17-03, 09:09 AM
Hey tell your friend to bring it back to the shop he got it from, that's coverd under warranty! All the parts on the bikes are warrantied for at least a year. If he didn't get it from a shop, then it's a bit more of a hastle...but call either RS or specialized, they'll take care of it.

jekyllrider
01-17-03, 10:29 AM
Good idea. I just called him and he is going to take it in. We figured it was a fork issue and wrote it off.
Thanks