Commuting - I ripped my tube a new one (and some presta question)

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shakeNbake
05-31-06, 09:32 AM
So I was getting ready this morning, got dressed, etc. First commute on the new bike, yay!
Decided to check the tire pressure, unscrew the cap and loosened the presta valve. This is my first time filling up a presta, luckily my pump have a double "mouth". So I plugged it in the presta opening, lock the lever, saw the pressure is 80, then I pump away until it's around 110.
I then unlock the lever, checked twice, I'm 100% sure it's unlocked. Tried to pull it out, it didn't budge a bit. I checked again, making sure that the lever is all the way out to the unlocked position. Still stuck like it is glued.
And I decided to put some elbow grease into it, pull it out with a little force. Then WTF? A loud PSSSSSHHHHH and the valve went limp. I knew than I was royally ****ed because my spare tube is still on it's way from performance. I tried to pump but it wouldn't hold any air, took off the tire and saw the valve was ripped clean off the tube.:mad:
So I took the bus this morning.
Anyone know what I did wrong? Did I miss a step? Recap:
Unscrew cap
Loosen the small thingie on top of the valve
Pushed the pump head all the way in
Locked it
Fill air
Unlocked it
Stuck
Or do I have a defective pump?
Hi, I also rip up a presta a couple of days ago.
I don't have a problem with presta tube I normally used. I bought some new unfamiliar tube. Those new tube have slightly fattier valve than my normal one. I can unscrew the pump "cap" to loosen the seal a bit so it easyer to insert the fattier valve. But my front wheel has the older tube so it's too loose need to be tighten. One day I was tired and did not want to fiddle with the pump so just force my way into the fattier valve. OK stupid idea. When I remove the pump guess what rip off the valve. :rolleyes:
max-a-mill
05-31-06, 10:58 AM
nope, same thing still happens to me occasionally... i know exactly what you mean, my pump takes significant force to remove from the valve at 110.
i have used other pumps that are easier to remove in the past (this one is a crappy nashbar one). next pump i get is gonna be a nice one. i'll see if that helps.
Yeah, try loosening the little screw on cap on the end of the pump head. That will loosen the pump's grip on the valve. Also, next time when you take the head off of the valve twist and pull. Don't yank it all around with gorilla like force.
brokenrobot
05-31-06, 11:08 AM
I haven't ripped off the valve yet - but I did gash my finger pretty good on a bladed spoke pulling my pump off a valve last week.
rykoala
05-31-06, 11:33 AM
Use a presta-schraeder converter and use the schraeder side of your pump. Its what I do.
va_cyclist
05-31-06, 11:35 AM
I got a new floor pump (Giant) this year, and I guess it's got a tighter grip than my old pump, because I've blown two tubes doing this exact same move so far.
shakeNbake
05-31-06, 11:41 AM
Pfheew, I thought I was the only one, I felt like an idiot.
I'm not sure if the pump head have a screw, I'll check it tonight.
How bout spraying the head with WD-40, is that a bad idea?
newbojeff
05-31-06, 12:31 PM
I've done this before too. I also find that you are more likely to weaken or break the valve if you are using a hand pump. Floor pumps are better. The best solution: pump for our car with a schraeder/presta adapter. Not too lazy to bike to work, but I find that I'm more likely to keep my tires up if I'm not doing the pumping.
chipcom
05-31-06, 12:45 PM
Put a little saliva on the valve before attaching the pump. Don't gorilla f_ck the thing off...try to pull straight up with even pressure, while doing a little twisting and turning without really doing any twisting and turning. I wish I could explain that one better!
My problem has always been getting the damn thing on so it will engage the valve. I find myself using my Road Morph more than any of my 3 floor pumps...it just seems easier for me. I guess I really need a decent new floor pump. :(
How bout spraying the head with WD-40, is that a bad idea?
For rubber, just stick to liquid dish soap as a lubricant (I'm guessing that this is what you wanted to do).
I'm guessing just about everyone here has fubared a tube or two wrestling with a presta valve. I inquired recently about the issue at an LBS. The guy there said to use a little spit to lubricate the valve and then don't go nuts trying to press it on. It should only take pressing it on a couple threads deep to get a seal.
CigTech
05-31-06, 12:55 PM
I have put a thin flat nut on the inside of the rim around the valve. This way if I pull to hard it will nut rip the valve out of the tube. What I did was take a old vale nut and grind it down to half the size. Then just screw it on to the valve before I put it onto the wheel. Then just use the valve nut that come with the tube on the outside of the rim. Now the valve will not slide in or pull out.
MillCreek
05-31-06, 12:58 PM
+1 on the presta/schraeder valve conversion fitting. I ripped out the stem of a Presta earlier this year, and the replacement tube is a short-stem Presta: there is not enough stem protruding out from the rim for my Presta head to get a good grip on it. So I am using a conversion fitting on both, since the Schraeder head gets a better grip and is easier to remove. I am using a Joe Blow pump that costs about $ 45.
Wil Davis
05-31-06, 01:09 PM
Here are a couple of pictures taken† from Sloane's Book "The All New Complete Book of Cycling" - these describe the best way to use a frame-pump on a Presta valve - remember, no wiggling or yanking, and a short, sharp blow to the pump to remove (the force has to be along the axis of the valve) - good luck!
- Wil
† for educational purposes only
slagjumper
05-31-06, 01:30 PM
Could also drill it out /ream it for a schrader valve. I would avoid any petroleum product (WD40) on any rubber part, it'll just rot it. Spit is good, or use a bit of silicon spray on the pump seal. Also make sure you know when your pump is locked. You can tell by looking at the hole on the pump head while acticating the lever. When the rubber thing in there is compresses, that is the locked on position. Try to pull strait up.
I have hurt my hand and tore valves several times removing the pumphead from the valve stem when I pump the tube up to 110. I stopped trying to pull the head off when they get stuck and started pushing it from behind on both sides of the tire. Since then no torn tubes or injuries.
I'm not sure if the pump head have a screw, I'll check it tonight.
It's not a screw. The cap that goes on the end screws on. You need to adjust the cap. Your pump probably has one if it is decently modern.
See my crude diagram in the attachment.
Wil Davis
05-31-06, 04:04 PM
It's not a screw. The cap that goes on the end screws on. You need to adjust the cap. Your pump probably has one if it is decently modern.
See my crude diagram in the attachment.
Neat pic!
When I was a boy, an older man taught me to lubricate the ends of the sections of my fishing pole with a little grease from the sides of my nose before I assembled the sections. Believe it or not, I simply rub the sides of my nose with a thumb and forefinger and rub the valve a bit before fitting the pump. Works great. Not only that, I pretty nearly always have my nose with me when I need to pump up a tire.:)
Boudicca
05-31-06, 06:45 PM
There are a few general rules on busting presta valves.
--It's always the rear tire, because it's harder to repair
--If you are pumping tires up on more than one bike, it's always the final wheel where the valve goes
--Broken valves always happen when you just used your last spare inner tube and have a small collection of tubes with holes that you really will patch one day
shakeNbake
05-31-06, 07:07 PM
Boudicca hit it right in the ****ing head!
It's the rear.
Thanks for the diagram, but my pump head look like a regular one sided head with two holes instead of one.
Thanks for the diagram, but my pump head look like a regular one sided head with two holes instead of one.
Ohh, ok. I can't help ya' there. I have never worked with a pump with that kind of head.
-=(8)=-
06-01-06, 12:48 PM
Ive ripped Presta tubes by not loosening the serated
collar that tightens to the rim. Twice, I forgot to loosen
it and the stem started tro pull away from the tube.
Loosen - pump - tighten.
Wil Davis
06-01-06, 01:44 PM
Ive ripped Presta tubes by not loosening the serated
collar that tightens to the rim. Twice, I forgot to loosen
it and the stem started tro pull away from the tube.
Loosen - pump - tighten.
If the collar is too tight, it will pull the valve stem out of the tube (been there, done that…)
- Wil
squeakywheel
06-01-06, 03:33 PM
My Silca pump has a Schrader / Presta dual use head. The Presta bell shaped part unscrews from the end of the hose. The end of the hose has Schrader valve sized threads in the end of it. Last time I couldn't get the Presta head off the valve, I just unscrewed the Presta / Schrader parts separating the Presta head from the hose. That releaved the pressure and then the Presta head came off easier.
newbojeff
06-01-06, 09:02 PM
Here are a couple of pictures taken† from Sloane's Book "The All New Complete Book of Cycling" - these describe the best way to use a frame-pump on a Presta valve - remember, no wiggling or yanking, and a short, sharp blow to the pump to remove (the force has to be along the axis of the valve) - good luck!
- Wil
† for educational purposes only
Tried this. Broke the f****r right off.
Wil Davis
06-01-06, 09:32 PM
Tried this. Broke the f****r right off.
…bummer! …man, you don't know your own strength! I've used Sloane's method for the past 40+ years and it's never failed yet!
- Wil
PS - you have to release the clamp before you strike the blow… but I expect you knew that already…
shakeNbake
06-01-06, 11:07 PM
Nope, tried every trick in the book.
I'm now convinced the pump is ****ed up.
But I got Schrader adaptors, so I'm good for now,
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