Bicycle Mechanics - FSA crank bolts

FSA can be really frustrating sometimes. My SLK carbon crank comes with alloy bolts. FSA manual strictly says that steel bolts must be used to torque specs, then the alloy bolts can be used (the ally bolt will likely strip). Of course, they do not provide steel bolts. God forbid on a $400 crank they provide a $0.12 bolt.

They say talk to your FSA dealer-no one sells these.

Then you go to the FSA website- they want $7 for the bolt, and $7 for shipping ($14 for one bolt).


Anyone know where to buy FSA M15 steel bolts??

Well, FSA answered my email in about 5 hours.

Turns out ay ISIS M15 bolt can be used, even shimano.

I'm late to this posting but have a suggestion. Install the steel bolts and leave them there. The alloy bolts are too fragile to trust and the trivial weight saving isn't worth it.

A friend had the exact same situation. He installed the FSA crank with steel bolts, replaced them with alloy as FSA recommended and had the alloy fail. He now has the steel bolts permanantly in place and no further problems.

I agree strongly with the suggestion to not use the alloy bolts, it won't do you any catastropic damage if the L crank comes off but you will find a one legged ride home a novelty you won't want to repeat, and if the R crank comes off you are dead in the water. When I changed to an FSA Gossamer compact I somehow lost the L crank bolt about 8 miles into a 60 miler, still haven't figured out how I could not notice the bolt backing out and was relieved to find when I got home that the cranks and the BB each came with bolts, so I had 4 of them. Now I torque the bolts periodically. Shimano bolts can be used in a pinch.

Now I torque the bolts periodically. Shimano bolts can be used in a pinch.
I expect you have never torqued the bolts to the proper spec initially or the wouldn't have loosened. The torque spec is MUCH tighter than you would imagine and a regular 8 mm hex wrench won't come close to the required degree of tightness unless you are Superman. If you install them using a torque wrench you will be astounded how tight you have to make them to meet the spec.

Good point and on the nose Hillrider. I do use a 3/8 to 8mm sqare drive as I learned a long time ago that standard allen wrenches were completely inadequate. I really must get a 3/8M to 1/2F adapter so I can use my 1/2" socket torque wrench. I checked the FSA a little earlier today before joining the evening ride and d---n if the L crank didn't need 1.5 turns to tighten it up.
Steve

I also have an FSA crank and it only came with the alloy M15 bolt. Does anyone know where one can get a high quality chromoly bolt that cheap? I think I need to re-tighten my crank arms. Wnen I pedal moderately hard it appears the chainrings are wobbly and quite a bit of rubbing with the front derailler.