Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Paul hubs and stepped lockrings

So ive got a set of paul hubs. They come with a stepped lockring for use with cheap narrow cogs that dont extend past the cog threading on the hub.
Ive got a dura ace cog. It extends past the cog threading about half a mm.
The lockring was installed with the stepped side in even though it was not needed. No problem until the cog comes unthreaded yesterday while i was skipping.

Because the lockring was stepped, it was only threaded onto the two outside threads on the hub. The two that it was threaded onto were totally sheared off. I fixed it by flipping the lockring around so the flat side was up against the cog. It is now engaging the threads that were previously untouched. Im hoping this will hold but i may look into getting a replacement from paul since it is still within the warranty period.

Has anybody had a problem like this? If you are setting up a paul hub or any other with a stepped lockring, make sure you need the step before you use it.

Wow, I understood none of that.

So ive got a set of paul hubs. They come with a stepped lockring for use with cheap narrow cogs that dont extend past the cog threading on the hub.
Ive got a dura ace cog. It extends past the cog threading about half a mm.
The lockring was installed with the stepped side in even though it was not needed. No problem until the cog comes unthreaded yesterday while i was skipping.

Because the lockring was stepped, it was only threaded onto the two outside threads on the hub. The two that it was threaded onto were totally sheared off. I fixed it by flipping the lockring around so the flat side was up against the cog. It is now engaging the threads that were previously untouched. Im hoping this will hold but i may look into getting a replacement from paul since it is still within the warranty period.

Has anybody had a problem like this? If you are setting up a paul hub or any other with a stepped lockring, make sure you need the step before you use it.
If they are feeling nice they will replace it. Apparent improper installation of the lockring is not a warranty issue. If a shop installed it then they should pony up for a new hub forthwith.

Because the lockring was stepped, it was only threaded onto the two outside threads on the hub. The two that it was threaded onto were totally sheared off. I fixed it by flipping the lockring around so the flat side was up against the cog. It is now engaging the threads that were previously untouched. Im hoping this will hold but i may look into getting a replacement from paul since it is still within the warranty period.
This is the part I don't get. The new Surly lockrings have a similar feature, where one side is stepped to allow more threads to engage with the hub. On the other side, though, the threads run right up to the face of the lockring. I don't see how this would happen. Maybe a diagram would help?

It is always a good idea to make sure that the lockring is tightened up right up against the cog.

Wow, I understood none of that.

i understood perfectly.

Well, what can I say?
You're a better man than I.

...clearly. :rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/zip22/untitledasdf.jpg

my understanding (probably no threading on the stepped part, since that wouldn't work, though)

A is how it was designed with a thin cog in mind
B is how it was installed because he thought it would be fine, but since it was barely hanging on it popped off
C is how he fixed it (and probably should have used it in the first place)

If they are feeling nice they will replace it. Apparent improper installation of the lockring is not a warranty issue. If a shop installed it then they should pony up for a new hub forthwith.

I expected it to be an if theyre feeling nice issue. The thing about it is that it wasn't an improper installation of the lockring. The lockring made for the stepped side to face the cog. If i had thought about that being a potential issue i would have flipped it around in the first place but the lockring is made to have the stepped side facing in. With the paul /DA combo it didn't allow for enough thread engagement. The shop thing is an issue. I didn't go through a shop and my friend who built the wheels also put the cog and lockring on.


This is the part I don't get. The new Surly lockrings have a similar feature, where one side is stepped to allow more threads to engage with the hub. On the other side, though, the threads run right up to the face of the lockring. I don't see how this would happen. Maybe a diagram would help?

It is always a good idea to make sure that the lockring is tightened up right up against the cog.
I wish i had the computer graphics abilities to make a diagram. You can check out the product on www.paulcomp.com. It has an explanation for the stepped lockring. Its stepped differently than the surly is. Instead of the outside having a threaded portion that goes out further, the inside is machined out so about 1 mm can fit around the cog threading and touch a cog that doesnt stick out far enough.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/zip22/untitledasdf.jpg

my understanding

A is how it was designed with a thin cog in mind
B is how it was installed because he thought it would be fine, but since it was barely hanging on it popped off
C is how he fixed it (and probably should have used it in the first place)

you're a genius. I dont know why i thought i needed graphics skills to make a diagram

I expected it to be an if theyre feeling nice issue. The thing about it is that it wasn't an improper installation of the lockring. The lockring made for the stepped side to face the cog. If i had thought about that being a potential issue i would have flipped it around in the first place but the lockring is made to have the stepped side facing in. With the paul /DA combo it didn't allow for enough thread engagement. The shop thing is an issue. I didn't go through a shop and my friend who built the wheels also put the cog and lockring on.


I wish i had the computer graphics abilities to make a diagram. You can check out the product on www.paulcomp.com. It has an explanation for the stepped lockring. Its stepped differently than the surly is. Instead of the outside having a threaded portion that goes out further, the inside is machined out so about 1 mm can fit around the cog threading and touch a cog that doesnt stick out far enough.
I 100% understand the problem. The stepped design of the lockring was intended to be used with narrow cogs as you mentioned. Seeing as you did not have a narrow cog wouldn't it be logical to install with step out. Sorry if I am coming off like a ******...not intended.

so the stepped thread is sort of like a spacer for narrow cogs right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/zip22/untitledasdf.jpg



This is awesome. Kidpix for lyfe.

looks like your friend installed the lockring incorrectly, and that's that. mistakes happen, but it would have been apparent that only two threads had engaged and nobody should think that's enough. hopefully paul will be kind and forgiving.

I understood perfectly. The stepped lockring is nice when used properly with a matching cog.

i ride pauls with a DA cog and have never had a similar problem

I wish i had the computer graphics abilities to make a diagram. You can check out the product on www.paulcomp.com. It has an explanation for the stepped lockring. Its stepped differently than the surly is. Instead of the outside having a threaded portion that goes out further, the inside is machined out so about 1 mm can fit around the cog threading and touch a cog that doesnt stick out far enough.
I see... the mspaint diagram spells it out.

In summary, the Paul lockring is good for cogs that are thinner than the hub threading, and the surly is good for cogs that are thicker than the hub threading.

sweet diagram, zip...

I've used DA and Surly cogs on my paul hubs. Never had this problem. It was installed wrong and you'll be lucky to get it replaced.

As a side note the paul lock ring is one of the beefiest aloy lockrings I've seen. When installed properly it should be nigh bomb proof.

i ride pauls with a DA cog and have never had a similar problem
And which way is your lockring facing? Cuz two threads won't hold for long... I know that from personal experience.

can you use a tugnut on paul hubs?

anyone that builds wheels and thinks that two threads is going to work should have their wheel building license revoked

it seems to me like youre smarter than your friend that built the wheels

the first thing i did when i put hte DA cog on my paul hub was try it the way you had it...noticed it wasnt fitting...then flipped it around to see if it worked better...amazingly i decided the way that engages more threads works better...

i wouldnt be surprised if paul gave you a new hub but thats just cuz they are an awesome company that stands behind their product...even through user abuse and misuse and improper installation

And which way is your lockring facing? Cuz two threads won't hold for long... I know that from personal experience.

all but the single outmost thread on my lockring are engaged.