Bicycle Mechanics - Freewheel upgrade conundrum, aka: is this worth messing w/ or just throw money at it

Here's the short of the situation in a nice easy to follow numbered list:

1) Bought Schwinn Passage with 27" wheels with Schwinn approved Malliard hubs. :)

2) Decided to replace the 5speed ATOM freewheel with a new 7speed Shimano HG freewheel since I wanted indexed shifting and had 7sp shifters.

3) Test fitted a 6sp freewheel I had on the Schwinn wheel - everything fit fine (was able to get the wheel between the stays). :)

4) Test fitted a 7sp freewheel on a different wheel (off my Barracuda Mk.I - hub is a low end Shimano) - everything fit fine (was able to get the wheel between the stays). :)

5) Last night finally got my new 7sp freewheel in, spun it on the Schwinn wheel - and Houston - there is a problem. :mad: :eek: :mad:
- There is probably .5mm of axel bolt showing from beyond the 7sp freewheel. Obviously this is a wee bit too close for comfort and will need a longer axel spacer to keep freewheel from hitting dropout
- The little bit wider freewheel's lock ring hits the chainstay enough to prevent the wheel from sliding up into the dropouts. aka: wheel no go in the slot! :mad:

6) Tried to cold set the dropouts a bit to give a little more room to get the wheel up in there with the 7sp freewheel. Must not have done it enough cause its still not working, and in any case won't fix problem #1

Solutions:

1) Attempt to add axel spacers on the freewheel side and redish the wheel.
- Axel may be too short to handle spacers
- May not solve problem #2 w/o additional cold setting

2) Replace the rear wheel with the same type as what is on my 'Cuda which I know will work. The 'Cuda's wheel is in fact sitting at home in the Schwinn's rear dropouts right.

Thoughts, suggestions, laughter at my situation? ;)

You could just make it a six-speed.

A little re-dish is probably the way to go. You want to keep those tough 40-spoke wheels for your commuter, right?

I could make it a 6speed, but as this is going to be my commuter bike I really want to have indexed shifting so I'm not missing shifts in traffic conditions.
A new wheel will cost me $40, shifters probably $20, and if I go with the new wheel I'll always have a backup rear wheel on the 'Cuda in case I have a flat on the commuter in the morning I don't have time to fix before leaving the house.

I had the same problem with the Triplecross when going from 6 to 7. Axle spacers and re-dish worked for me. Took maybe an hour, loosening and tightening two spokes at a time and using the center bar of the rack as a guage.
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For 6 speeds... How about some 105's?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-6-Speed-Shimano-105-Down-Tube-Index-Shifters_W0QQitemZ7249272702QQcategoryZ36140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

For a couple of bucks less... Will Stem Shifters mount on Kelly's? I bought a set of these for a beater bike, and my take offs arrived this morning. I can check it out for you if interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Tourney-SIS-6-Spd-Stem-Shifters-NOS_W0QQitemZ7249126376QQcategoryZ42330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Of course, if this removes your 6 speed HG cassette from the "For Trade" I will insist on talking with you about the 7 speeed cassette... I can use either of them on different projects. :)

The 105's could work certainly. I'm going to give the existing wheel a shot with adding a few spacers to see if I can get the 7sp freewheel to work. And yes, which ever freewheel is still unused at the end of this mess, is certainly up for grabs.

I have 6-speed indexed on my Passage right now, for what it's worth.

But I'd rather have 7-speed.

I'm going to try to loosen the driveside lock nut up tonight to where it would be if I put a spacer behind it, see if I can get the wheel in place then before I spend the time/effort to find a spacer the right side and dish the wheel. Since I know I have a plan B that will work to fall back on, and I'm not up against any real deadline to get the project finished I'll see if the cheap route can work. Esp since I may drop some $$ on a Brooks for the bike. ;)

I vote for the easiest solution in my mind. Add spacer to drive side and remove equal amount of spacer from non-drive then redish. Start at the valve hole and loosen all non-drive spokes a 1/4 turn, now tighten all drive side a quarter turn. Repeat as necessary. Helps if you have a dishing tool. Luckily I can pay 5 bucks and spend an hour in the community bike shop to do this where I can also find spacers etc... same axle same spacing of the dropouts etc..

I vote for the easiest solution in my mind. Add spacer to drive side and remove equal amount of spacer from non-drive then redish. Start at the valve hole and loosen all non-drive spokes a 1/4 turn, now tighten all drive side a quarter turn. Repeat as necessary. This works well; I have done it many times.


Helps if you have a dishing tool. ... or simply use your frame and brakepads as your dishing tool, as I have always done. When the wheel is properly dished, you should be able to install it properly or backward with the rim in the same lateral position relative to the frame and brake.

... I really want to have indexed shifting so I'm not missing shifts in traffic conditions. ... The danger of missed shifts with nonindexed shifters is grossly overstated and overestimated. I keep my only indexed shifter (on the Schwinn) in friction mode.

1) Attempt to add axel spacers on the freewheel side and redish the wheel.
- Axel may be too short to handle spacers
- May not solve problem #2 w/o additional cold setting

You can add axle spacers on the freewheel side with or without redishing the wheel. if your rim/tire run several millimeters off-center, it won't mess up handling at all. Now if they were 20mm off center, that would be annoying.


The danger of missed shifts with nonindexed shifters is grossly overstated and overestimated. I keep my only indexed shifter (on the Schwinn) in friction mode.

I ride in city traffic all the time and I love friction shifters- they don't seem to get all fouled up as much as indexed shifters.