Road Cycling - Advise for heavier person

I am looking to get into better shape and lose around 40 lbs.

Height 6'1"
Weight 260 lbs
Inseam 30 inches

I was riding a used MTB last year and really enjoyed it. But I would like to ride more this year and most of the riding is on the road, with some side walks.

I don't know of any real good bike shops around me, most seem just want to get you into a bike and not help you find the right bike.

Question #1 Will I be ok with a road bike with my weight? Will it hold up going on the side walks? Will it be comfortable for someone my size?

Question #2 I was looking at Fuji's Roubaix/Pro or Cross (used) they seem to be the best value. Is there another used bike you would recommend, it seems 105 components are recommended.

Questions #3 I will not be an aggressive rider, so comfort over speed. What Geomotry should I be looking for in a bike? Is there a size you would recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Originally posted by Zorph
I am looking to get into better shape and lose around 40 lbs.

That's a fantastic goal. You and I are about the same height. I weigh 200 now but was at 280 last April.


Question #1 Will I be ok with a road bike with my weight? Will it hold up going on the side walks? Will it be comfortable for someone my size?

Question #2 I was looking at Fuji's Roubaix/Pro or Cross (used) they seem to be the best value. Is there another used bike you would recommend, it seems 105 components are recommended.

Questions #3 I will not be an aggressive rider, so comfort over speed. What Geomotry should I be looking for in a bike? Is there a size you would recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions.

1. Yes big guys can ride road bikes. Sidewalks are hard to ride on - stay on the street as much as you can. Road bike tires at 120 psi make you feel every little crack in a side walk. Comfort is relative. Make sure you get a bike that fits. That means that your bike shop may not be able to sell you something off the floor, although they will surely try.

2. I personally like Cannondale. The frames are stiff, which is what larger riders need. I ride an R600 with a double chainring. It has 105 components.

3. See 1 & 2

Lou

Zorph,

First off, welcome to BF. You will likely get all sorts of answers to your many questions which you have cleverly masked to look like only three.:D

I commend you for wanting to change your life and to find help and relaxation in the sport of biking.

I'll give a shot at your Q's:
1a: Your weight will work with a road bike.
1b: A purest biker avoids sidewalks at all costs, but the bike will hold up. The objects found on sidewalks will likely take their toll on you.
1c: A road bike can be set up in a variety of ways to allow comfort to many different body types and weights. Bikes come in many geometries though, and a hybrid or a touring bike have qualities which apply to different riding styles. Become familiar with the styles and uses of these different bikes to match the type of riding you plan to do.
2a: Used bikes are like women, er, fish in the sea. There's always another good deal out there. Don't jump on the first women, er, bike you find. Get her background, er, informed first.
2b: Buy the grade of components you can safely afford. Remember, if you are just starting biking, there are a lot of ancilary items you are going to need to buy to make the whole thing work. Trust me.
3ab: Comfort over speed? Try out some touring or hybrid bikes. Go to a shop that has all these styles and tell the salesperson you have a wad of cash and want to ride everything in the store. If you don't like the person go to the next salesperson. It's your money, feel comfortable.
3c: Frame size is based on a few of your body dimensions and the type of bike you'll be riding, all of which I don't know.

Go to all of your local bike shops and see what they have.

Good luck!

Good news. I hope you stick with it.

I started my health kick last April and am still on it. Although, it's tough riding in the cold, but with the right clothing you can definitely do it.

I'm a big guy myself, 6'2", 285lbs.

Yes you can do a road bike. I have a cyclocross bike myself, but I've basically turned it into a road bike. The biggest problems you will have are with the wheels. If you are buying it from a bike shop tell them up front you want what is called the "clydesdale" setup. This usually means beefier rims with 36 spokes, 14 gauge or 14/15 gauge double butted spokes. I'd also recommend a little bigger tire. Specialized Armadillo Turbo's are great... especially the 700 x 26c.

I have more problems with my wheels than anything. This includes wheels coming untrued and spokes breaking, or becoming untensioned. If the bike shop you are going to does not have a wheel builder, as them for a recommendation. I'm actually debating on whether to go to a new one myself and get a 40 Spoke wheel. But then, I'm also intersted in taking my cyclocross bike on hard packed dirt paths, so I kinda need a beefier wheel. For the road, you should be good with a 36 spoke wheel if it's built good.

I ride on the road and bike paths and a few side walks. I don't like side walks because they are bumpy and things can jump out on ya. Try to stay on the road as much as possible unless you have a good network of bike paths where you live. We have a pretty extensive system of bike paths here, so I do most of my riding on those.

When you buy the bike, have it "fitted" for you at the bike shop. That is KEY in having the bike be comfortable for you. you might have to pay a small charge, but it is SOOO worth it. I would even suggest you go back and be refitted once you drop some significant weight (40+lbs).

Fuji Roubaix is a pretty good bike from what I've read. I bought a LeMond Poprad when it was a year old but still new. I had them remove the entire drive train and replace it with 105 components and I love them. So the 105 is great IMHO. It also depends on how much you plan on riding. I did 3500 miles last year from Apr thru the end of Dec. I would say all the parts have held up well. I did have to replace the rear tire and get a new chain. The only other thing wearing is the right shifter.. it's getting gunked up... and I think the spring is wearing. Also the headset is starting to wear they said.

The other thing is to let them know you want a more comfortable ride when you go to get "fitted". That's important. Otherwise they might fit you for a more aerodynamic position. I ride a 59 cm bike and it fits me just a tad short. So I would say if you are an inch shorter than me a 59cm bike should fit you perfectly. I would actually go test-ride a 59 and a 60 cm bike. Make sure you take them out for at least 20 or 30 mins and really ride. That is the only way you'll get a feel for them. Make sure you adjust them before riding (saddle height, etc).

Good luck and welcome to BF.

PBW

1) Road bikes can be ridden by very heavy people. Heavy riders usually like stiff frames. Cannondales tend to have stiff frames so you might want to check them out. The other problem is that heavy riders can have problems with wheels. I tend to go with a 25 mm tire (tires go down to about 20 mm). And I ride a Mavic T519 rim. I used to break wheels up after about 10,000 miles. I can get nearly unlimited miles out of a T519. At your weight, you may or may not have problems with wheels.

2) I like Shimano 105. It is a quality group and it should give you good service. As for used bikes, I have found that components last (with good service) about 30,000 miles. Most used bikes have maybe 5,000 miles on them and often far less. You get a nearly new bike for a major discount. The big thing to look for on a used bike is the fit. Bike fit is critical. However generally if it is close, you can take it to a bike shop and they can fit it to you by swapping out the stem.

3) Geometry. The longer the wheel base a bike has, the slower its responses but the nicer the ride. But geometry is a funny thing. I had a Black Lightning for years and I lent it to friends at times. It had a notably harsh ride but was very responsive and everyone loved that rascal. Maybe not to ride all the time, but it was FUN to ride. A major downside on used bikes in color. I don't know but having a NICE color means a fair bit to me. A friend of mine (who raced) used to say the single most important thing about a bike is its color.

Getting a bike is a good thing for losing weight. Bicycling is a low impact sport and you can ride for hours without beating yourself up (except for your hinder parts). It isn't hard to burn up heroic numbers of calories cycling.

As to your questions above, you want a bike that you will ride. If you ride a bike a bunch, it will do you more good then a "better" bike that you won't ride. So get what FEELS good.

Another Big guy checking in: 6'0" and about 230 today, last year I was about 260-265.

Plus, I also work in a shop!

There are a number of calculations you can use to fit yourself to the bike. I can't remember the website offhand, but will do a quick search and post it for you if I find it. I've used as a first shot type measure the one that's on the Colorado Cyclist website.
Here's the link:CC Fitting Calcs (http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/)

If you'll notice, the frame size is determined by your inseam, not your height. You've got short legs like me, and are probably long torsoed (sp?). Even though I'm 6'0", I ride a 55 cm, but could fit between a 53, 54, 55 or 56, depending on the manufacturer. Let me put this another way: I can ride comfortably on my wife's Cannondale 54cm frame, and she's only 5'6".

I ride a LeMond Zurich. Like I said it's a 55 cm. I chose this because LeMond's have a slightly longer top tube, and due to my short leg/long torsoe body, the LeMond felt the most comfortable.

Once you determine your proper frame size, you can peform a series of adjustments to the bike to "dial" it in. However, if you start with the wrong frame, it can get very complicated. For example, you can swap out the stem for a longer one, or one with a steeper angle to raise the bars. You could also get a lay-back seatpost to increase the reach, as long as your position relative to the cranks isn't compromised. (Front of knee cap should be directly above pedal spindle in 3 o'clock position.

My shop offers what is called a "fit kit", which is a series of measurements which are then input into a program to establish your "recommended" measurements for a bike. This takes 45 min to a hour, so we charge $100.00 to do this. However, we will credit the same amount back if you buy a bike from us! See if any shops in your area offer the "fit kit" and perhaps a similar deal.

Another Newbie tip: Your BUTT will hurt no matter what seat you use. You will have to ride a couple times before it doesn't hurt. You have to build some muscle tone in your gluteous maximus that sitting in front of a computer doesn't build! So, be prepared for this and go ahead and buy some cycling shorts. It won't prevent it, but they do minimize the discomfort.

I'll try to find the link that has the more detailed fitting and post it if and when I find it!

L8R

There are options in road bikes that can provide more comfort and upright position wihout a real sacrifice is speed. The Cdale 'sports'(formerly road warroir) and Specialized Sequoia series are two examples.Aluminum and 36 spoke wheels are worth considering. There are also some reasonably priced cyclo cross bikes that would work well too....Main point is to find something that fits well and you will really enjoy riding alot.

Lots of good advice here.
Road frames are strong enough for big riders.
Fat tubes Al frames (like Canondales) are stiffer and can resist large loads better than thin tubed bikes, but they are all sufficiently strong.
The most common point of failure is the wheels, not the frame. Get some professionally handbuilt 36 spoke wheels.
A mid-range components set like Shimano 105 is more than good enough for regular riding.
Cyclo-cross style bikes give you quite a few advantages over competition racing bikes:
Clearance for wider tyres and fenders. (I would recomend fitting a 28 slick tyre for road riding).
Fittings for a luggage rack for commuting/shopping/touring
Lower gearing.
A more upright riding position.
The ability to tackle rough tracks as part of your road ride.

You're a fly-weight! I started at 400 lbs, currently at 339 and falling. I bought a Liahona brand bicycyle (especially made for Mormon missionaries) becuase they're built like trucks. I've added racks and panniers, etc. It carries me with no problems and is a delight to ride. You can see their bikes at http://www.liahonabike.com If you call them, tell Tony hello.

I wanted to thank everyone for there great replies.

Looks like I am going to have to find a good bike shop in metro area (Farmington).

I will look at cycle cross, touring and road bikes.

I wish you luck Zorph.

Please stick around and post often.

The Training and Nutrition section will come in handy as will all the needed repair found in the Bicycle Mechanics section.

We'll have you in tight spandex in no time!

Originally posted by LET
I started at 400 lbs, currently at 339 and falling.

Good for you!! :)

hey Zorph go to www.mmba.org and ask for good shops around your area. It's the michigan mountain bike association but there's people from all over there who can help you find a good shop to help you out

Good Luck