Mountain Biking - Need tough wheels, dangit!

I just picked up my XT Rhyno Lite's that my LBS detentioned, spoke prepped with linseed oil, and re-built. I rode them on by 5" trailbike down town off several 3-4 ft drops to flat and 4.5-5 ft drops to tranny. (I compress my body to absorb shock) Then I did 6-8 runs down a few sets of stairs. Not gaps, just going down stairs pretty fast. My 2.35's were pumped up to about 45-50 PSI.

By the time I got home they were doing the same ol' thing. "click, click, click" The spokes loosen up and the wheel flexes as it rolls. I retentioned the dadgum things myself this time and true'd the wheel back up.

I need a wheel that:
1. is strong enough not to loosen up after 2 hrs of riding
2. is not freakin heavy like the Deemax or Bombshells
3. has quick release front and rear

Do they make such an animal? I was thinking about having my LBS build me a set of XT Sun Singletrack with straight guage spokes and brass nipples. (I can use my XT hubs from my other wheelset)

Those aren't fr wheels. They are burly xc wheels. Singletracks are in the same range...you need to look at something stronger.

You will never get number 1 with number 2 with the way you seem to ride. Suck it up and accept the weight.

HEY! Bombshell's arn't that heavy. Go for Sun MTX or S-types, plenty strong and not that heavy either. Sun Singletracks are okay but don't take a lot of hard abuse, they'd be a lot like your rhyno lites.

What bike do you have?

You will never get number 1 with number 2 with the way you seem to ride. Suck it up and accept the weight.


+1.. seriously, you guys expect a wheelset to endure that kind of abuse and want it to be light too. Come on.

Actually I will agree with Jason, the s-types are killer rims. Solid and lightish. I run them on my dh and xc bikes. It is probably the closest you will get to light and strong...still not gonna hold up for very long.

I've had to tighten up my rear S-type a few times, but usually it's a 1 or 2 spoke thing, just a few get loose.

+1.. seriously, you guys expect a wheelset to endure that kind of abuse and want it to be light too. Come on.

You make it sound like a 3-4 foot drop is "abuse". I didn't think it was that big.

Well, I'm gonna seer clear of the singletrack's I guess. I've never heard of the S-types. I didn't see them on Sun-ringle's site.

Did I miss them or are they new?
Can I use my XT hubs?
Should I go brass or alum. nips?
Which spokes are best for my application?

Jason222 - I ride Jamis Dakar XLT 5" with Fox Vanilla 130 R fork

S-types are the slightly different, OEM version of the MTX rims. Just get the MTX rims and build it up with your own hubs if you'd like.

You make it sound like a 3-4 foot drop is "abuse". I didn't think it was that big.

Well, I'm gonna seer clear of the singletrack's I guess. I've never heard of the S-types. I didn't see them on Sun-ringle's site.

Did I miss them or are they new?
Can I use my XT hubs?
Should I go brass or alum. nips?
Which spokes are best for my application?

Jason222 - I ride Jamis Dakar XLT 5" with Fox Vanilla 130 R fork

Are you talking about a "pinkbike foot" or a real foot? Either way, I didn't realize what bike you had. With that much travel, you shouldn't have that many problems. I would not let your LBS build you any more wheels.

Lol what are pinkbike feet?

Lol what are pinkbike feet?

about 3 or 4 inches

Man, thats weird, I would be dropping like 18 feet according to Pink Bike?

Is there a back story or something I'm missing?

Man, thats weird, I would be dropping like 18 feet according to Pink Bike?

Is there a back story or something I'm missing?

A lot of kids on pink bike have trouble with actual distance.

Are you talking about a "pinkbike foot" or a real foot? Either way, I didn't realize what bike you had. With that much travel, you shouldn't have that many problems. I would not let your LBS build you any more wheels.


I don't think it's my LBS. He builds his own freeride wheels (and urban 24's) all the time. I've seen the 9 and 12 footers he hucks.

The real problem is that I got the Rhyno's for X-mas. Ya know...$130 JensonUsa stuff. (machine built, no spoke prep)

I think if we start with a clean slate ie...new spokes and rims, it'd be okay. I was just under the impression that Rhyno Lites were tough. I didn't know they were XC wheels.

I'll look in to the MTX. I don't mind a 650g-700g rim if it's gonna stay true.

How 'bout the Rhyno Lite XL? Still XC...just welded?

Should probably stick with the MTX. I'm open to other brands as well. Heck, how about Mavic 729's or something? Any Mavic rims worthy of a decent technical trail or a 4-5 footer to tranny?

What y'all think of these? They're wide. Darren "Bearclaw" abuses them. They sound pretty dang tough for only being 560g.


Bombshell Fatdaddy DH 26" Disc Rim
http://www.bti-usa.com/pictures/BM/BM8321.jpg


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Description: Fatdaddy DH 26" disc rim, 32h - black
Manufacturer: Bombshell - (Part No. 1087-26-32 (8))
Item No.: BM8321 In Stock?

Specs: Size Width Holes ERD Color Weight
26 in. 36mm 32h 537mm black 560g

Features: Heavy duty aluminum downhill/freeride rim
Disc only, pinned joint




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DT721258 DT-Swiss Champion spoke, black 14g - box/72 258mm
WN7979 Woodman Disco System disc brake adapter, grey
GF202 Greenfield KS2 aluminum kickstand, silver

I don't know something seems cheesy, Rhyno Lites are marketed as dual slamom/downhill/clydesdale rims, I have Sun DS2+XC rims which are marketed as lightweight XC race rims (400grams!) and they hold up well remarkably even after all I put them through (which does include 6 footers with transitions and 3-4 footers flat to flat and more).

Hmmm...

Could have been the stairs that did 'em in.

According to Sun-Ringle's site, the Rhyno Lite 'XL' is considered a dual slalom/downhill/clydesdale rims, not the Rhyno Lite.

I guess the XL makes a difference.

i wouldnt go for those bombshells because they are sooooo wide. 36mm is huge. the smallest tire you could ever run comfortably is a 2.3. i like a little bit skinnier rim.

I like wide.

I'm running 2.35's.

What about the Azonic Outlaw wheelset?

I read a couple of reviews that were very positive. I talked to a dude that rides DH (shuttle runs) and he recommended them to me.

Just a thought.

Switch over to Mammoths. ERD is close enough so you don't even have to change spokes - - just lace 'em up. Yes, they're a little heavier, but they'll handle abuse that the RhynoLites won't and they are pretty economical. I assume you are running straight-gauge 14 spokes and not some foo-foo butted ones?

i wouldnt go for those bombshells because they are sooooo wide. 36mm is huge. the smallest tire you could ever run comfortably is a 2.3. i like a little bit skinnier rim.
I hear ya in a way. My front wheel is a Bombshell Fatboy which is 38.4 mm wide, and I'm running a 2.6 up front. It does rub a bit, but he could definately fit bigger than 2.3!

The Fatdaddy's would be a great investment.

Oh and by the way, S-types and MTX's are 34mm wide, just a hair smaller than the Fatdaddy's.

I assume you are running straight-gauge 14 spokes and not some foo-foo butted ones?

Butted spokes actually build a stronger wheel, because the spoke can stretch easier during use to absorb some of the force. This reduces stress on the rim and hub.

I thought a fat straight guage spoke was the way to go for tough wheels.

Chelboed, for how long do you use your XT hubs? Are they well built? How much of abuse can they take? Easy maintenance, good rolling? Is there anything better for the same price? I'll be getting new hubs soon so I'd like to know about XT.

What conserns your issue, I use mavic rims. They are strong, duralble and light. Let professionals build the wheel for you.

Nuke dude: I agree...let a good wheel builder do 'em. Never buy machine built from Jenson/pricepoint type places.

Hubs...love 'em. They are not as good as a sealed bearing hub, but just take care of them. Don't get water directly in the bearings. If you do, take 'em apart and service them.

For the price, XT is the bomb. I love it. I have XT fr der, r der, chain, cassette, and hubs. I would love to have XT cranks/shifters too, but my LX's are performing fine and the weight diff is neglegeable.

(don't get me wrong, I like the SRAM X.9 stuff too...but they don't make hubs hahaha)

Decide on what you're doing yet?

S-types are good rims, if your not me.

Also, I hate rocks almost as much as rebuilding a wheel in the bush.

I weight 130lbs, and I'm pretty hard on my bike at times (quite a few crashes every ride, messed up bunnyhops, and such) and my rhynolite XLs laced to deore have hardly a 1mm wobble, after 3 months of hard riding. I've done things such as running 35kmph into a rock and flying over the bars, manualling into a curb that i was going to bunnyhop (I was compressing, putting a TON of force on my rear wheel, as it ate up the curb). You'd have to be pretty darn rough on those wheels to actually hurt them, as far as I'm concerned. There are plenty of newbs, and pros alike who use rhynolite XLs, I don't know the issue, but if XLs don't solve it, id go straight for Mavis 700+ series.

My brother has Rhyno Lite Xl's on his Giant Stp, so far they've been great, and I havent had to tighten the spokes yet.

You could use the same spokes and hub and relace them to Rhyno lite XL's, the ERD is basically the same.

azonic outlaws...problem solved

I weight 130lbs, and I'm pretty hard on my bike at times (quite a few crashes every ride, messed up bunnyhops, and such) and my rhynolite XLs laced to deore have hardly a 1mm wobble, after 3 months of hard riding. I've done things such as running 35kmph into a rock and flying over the bars, manualling into a curb that i was going to bunnyhop (I was compressing, putting a TON of force on my rear wheel, as it ate up the curb). You'd have to be pretty darn rough on those wheels to actually hurt them, as far as I'm concerned. There are plenty of newbs, and pros alike who use rhynolite XLs, I don't know the issue, but if XLs don't solve it, id go straight for Mavis 700+ series.


I think if I weighed 130lbs instead of 185, I could use any wheel I wanted.:D

Seriously though. I forgot that when you get a new set of wheels built that you need to retention them at least once. When I had my shop rebuild these, I retentioned them the one time and now they're tight. No problems yet.

As far as hucking...I will probably not do anymore stairs with these wheels. I may build some beefy ones or get the Outlaws for drops to flat or stair gaps. These should be okay for trail biking though.

We'll see. That's where I'm at right now.

I really don't even have a proper bike for hucking anyway. I run a 5" trail bike. I'm cruisin for a bike bruisin' there, eh?

I weigh 195, and my bike weighs 39 lbs, do the math. I run Alex DX-32s front and rear, straight guage spokes, 32 front 36 rear. I dont have a sinlge problem with them other than my front is a little out of true front landing on the front sideways trying 360's. Im a big kid and I dont treat my rims the greatest, but these things hold up great. They come in many sizes and hole counts. A little heavy, but for the strength, it is worth it. They also have rim brake surfaces, if you dont run disc.

Drilled rims are hella strong, and really light. Meant for trials, but could probably be used for other things.

Nuke dude: I agree...let a good wheel builder do 'em. Never buy machine built from Jenson/pricepoint type places.

Hubs...love 'em. They are not as good as a sealed bearing hub, but just take care of them. Don't get water directly in the bearings. If you do, take 'em apart and service them.

For the price, XT is the bomb. I love it. I have XT fr der, r der, chain, cassette, and hubs. I would love to have XT cranks/shifters too, but my LX's are performing fine and the weight diff is neglegeable.

(don't get me wrong, I like the SRAM X.9 stuff too...but they don't make hubs hahaha)


XT bearings ARE sealed. That rubber thing that glides along the outside of the hub is the seal. Any wheel is going to have a similar floating piece of rubber. The difference is that cartridge bearings are CARTRIDGES that are not serviceable and must be replaced as a package. The other difference is these are pretty much all radial bearing that will sieze when you sideload them (2007 XTR is supposed to have angular contact bearings).

Stick with the XTs. Everyone is just too much $$$ for a product (radial bearings) that are not optimal for two wheeled applications where the bearings are constantly being side-loaded.

XT bearings ARE sealed. That rubber thing that glides along the outside of the hub is the seal. Any wheel is going to have a similar floating piece of rubber. The difference is that cartridge bearings are CARTRIDGES that are not serviceable and must be replaced as a package. The other difference is these are pretty much all radial bearing that will sieze when you sideload them (2007 XTR is supposed to have angular contact bearings).

Stick with the XTs. Everyone is just too much $$$ for a product (radial bearings) that are not optimal for two wheeled applications where the bearings are constantly being side-loaded.

I meant sealed cartridge bearings. Sorry I'm not technical sometimes. Actually, my friend took his "sealed cartridge" bearings apart and cleaned and re-lubed them. So they are serviceable.

Either way, stick with XT's. Good bang-for-the-buck.

i hear good things about halo sas wheels. heavy, but strong.