Commuting - Advice for a new (and poor) commuter

Hi everybody,
I'm about to start commuting (5 miles each way, mostly suburban side streets) and am looking into what bike to get. First of all I have to say this forum ROCKS! Had I known about it last time I was considering commuting, I probably would have started then..

I've been to the LBS's around here a year ago, and they advised me that I should stick to a hybrid frame for commuting given the "fragility" of road bikes and the fact that I haven't been on a bike in a while (10 years since any regular riding and that was on a toy mountain bike)

On one hand I want to agree with them, and start considering the hybrids i've seen around here, but on the other I'd really like to get into road biking since I know if I do any recreational biking, that's what I'd rather be doing.

I've got a strict mandate from the missus to keep the bike (equipment not included) under $400, but if I'm getting a road bike I think I can push things to $600.

I've been reading the "under $700 road bike" sticky, but pretty much any sub $600 road bike mentioned isn't sold around here unless the LBS has one on clearance from the previous season. used ads haven't turned up much either.

I went to our local big-box sporting goods shop (dick's) and they had a diamondback podium for $550
I haven't heard diamondback thrown around much around here, so I'm guessing they're not so great.
any opinions from owners out there?

the other thing I'm throwing around (more of the hybrid category) is the Kona Dew or Smoke

What I'm really looking for is the best frame for the money since I figure with a good frame I can upgrade my way into a pretty decent bike.

I commute on an old English 3 spd. Upright position for easy visibility and balance, fenders and chain guard to keep you clean and very little maintenance once it is set up correctly. And old 3 spd are surprisingly efficient, I can easily keep up with traffic going 20-25 mph for a block or two.

If you are going for a new bike, I would definitely go with road wheels/tires. Last time I checked the DOT was not constructing off road mountain trails for suburban streets.

Why not look around the pawn shops for a good used road bike. This way you will see if that is what you really want before you drop a lot of money on one. And if it does not work out, then go get a hybrid frame.

Either with or without a knowledgable bike friend I would haunt a lot (dozens) of Salvation Army, Goodwill, and other second hand stores. Even the occasional police sale. There are some incredible finds out there. Say $20 to $50 for something like a Reynolds 531 alloy frame, a lbs overhaul, new tubes and tires, lights, bags, rack . . . $600 can add up quickly. If the cash limit is spent all on a bike you will be short of the other things you need.

There are a lot of options. I'm sure that Diamondback is a fine road bike for the money, but it's not an ideal commuting rig - you really want something which can handle wider tires and fenders.

My suggestion? Sit back and stay a while. You'll hear a lot of opinions, and you have a lot to learn.

San Rensho's 3-speed idea is a good one. You should be able to pick up a nice one and get all of the maintenance up to date for well under $200 - that leaves plenty of money for a lock, helmet (if you choose to wear one), lights, raingear, etc. If you can find an old touring bike, or even a good-quality ten-speed from the 80's, that might be even better.


You'll probably also have enough left over to start saving up for a nicer bike. You really won't know exactly what you need or want until you spend more time riding.

Have you considered a cyclocross or touring bike? I doubt if you'll find one in the $400-$600 price range unless it's used. They are similar to a road bike, the main difference being a longer wheelbase and different head tube/seat tube angles.

You could put a wanted add on craigslist. Just say that you will spend around $100 on an older but good condition road bike. See what happens. I found one in less than a week that way. It had new tires & tubes & new handlebar tape. I put some new brake pads on it, used lots of wd40 to unstick any nipples on the wheels, and trued them up. I didn't really now what I was doing, so didn't get a great frame, but it is a touring bike, so it's strong, and has plenty of room for big tires, fenders, and a rack. I love the thing. Best bike buy I've made. Make sure that the wheels are reasonably good, all the bearings are pretty smooth, brakes work w/ real hard squeeze, etc. If you are less mechanically inclined, get something like the bike that you mentioned. Perhaps a new online bike like ibex cyclocross ($500). If you are not mechanically inclined at all, go to the lbs. You'll pay more, but it will work better from the get go, and they will probably be real good about keeping it going for the first couple of months (on the off chance something breaks).

In the midst of the bargain-hunting, remember (of course) not to compromise and get a bike that doesn't fit you well :)

Hi everybody,
I'm about to start commuting (5 miles each way, mostly suburban side streets) and am looking into what bike to get. First of all I have to say this forum ROCKS! Had I known about it last time I was considering commuting, I probably would have started then..

I've been to the LBS's around here a year ago, and they advised me that I should stick to a hybrid frame for commuting given the "fragility" of road bikes and the fact that I haven't been on a bike in a while (10 years since any regular riding and that was on a toy mountain bike)

On one hand I want to agree with them, and start considering the hybrids i've seen around here, but on the other I'd really like to get into road biking since I know if I do any recreational biking, that's what I'd rather be doing.

I've got a strict mandate from the missus to keep the bike (equipment not included) under $400, but if I'm getting a road bike I think I can push things to $600.

I've been reading the "under $700 road bike" sticky, but pretty much any sub $600 road bike mentioned isn't sold around here unless the LBS has one on clearance from the previous season. used ads haven't turned up much either.

I went to our local big-box sporting goods shop (dick's) and they had a diamondback podium for $550
I haven't heard diamondback thrown around much around here, so I'm guessing they're not so great.
any opinions from owners out there?

the other thing I'm throwing around (more of the hybrid category) is the Kona Dew or Smoke

What I'm really looking for is the best frame for the money since I figure with a good frame I can upgrade my way into a pretty decent bike.

my .02

i commute about 30 miles/day on city streets and have learned 2 things:

1. A hybrid works best. I find that the wider tires (38c's) are more stable, slip less on wet sewer grates, and are less prone to flats. The upright position is more comfortable and allows you to better observe traffic, especially when you have to look behind you. A hybrid also allows for easy carrier mounting and a set of panniers that will give you the opportunity to run errands, pick up stuff for dinner, and carry tools, tubes, and a pump...I also carry a change of clothes if riding when wet.

2. Stay away from beaters. Get a good new inexpensive bike...in Canada you can get a new Trek hybrid for about $350, but some of the best inexpensive commuters are made by Fuji, KHS, and other tier 2 mfg's like Miele, Raleigh, and others...usually they're fairly similar at the same price points. You'll end up spending more on repairing old, used bikes. Bikes at pawn shops may be stolen (most are at the shops here)

I commute on an old English 3 spd. Upright position for easy visibility and balance, fenders and chain guard to keep you clean and very little maintenance once it is set up correctly. And old 3 spd are surprisingly efficient, I can easily keep up with traffic going 20-25 mph for a block or two.

If you are going for a new bike, I would definitely go with road wheels/tires. Last time I checked the DOT was not constructing off road mountain trails for suburban streets.

This is probably the most common sense reponse for your (and many others) needs when it comes
to urban commuting. These old steel framed english 3 speeds were built for the masses who had
to travel by bicycle everyday. They are still a prefered bike in the rest of the world.

Sure they're not fancy or gee whiz in anyway while all the bike snobs disdain them but for pure everyday
get my a$$ from point A to point B the old 3speed owes no quarter to any other type of bike. THAT
type of use is what they were built for. ;) ;)

You can spend lots of money on another type of bike BUT you will not have a better bike for urban
commuting.

Thanks for the advice so far, but I think it's raised a few questions.

1 When looking at bikes outside of bike shops (i.e. Pawn shops yard sales, etc), is there a good way to distinguish Al from steel frames?

2 I think my grandmother may have a few road bikes in storage somewhere, they were my aunts/uncles, if the frame fits, other than laughter are there any consequnces for a dude riding a women's bike?

3 I did the inseam measurement mentioned on the nashbar website and got a final result of 54cm being the correct frame size for me? Being 6' tall, I figured either I'm short legged or something's fishy with my measurement.

Thanks for the advice so far, but I think it's raised a few questions.

1 When looking at bikes outside of bike shops (i.e. Pawn shops yard sales, etc), is there a good way to distinguish Al from steel frames? USE A MAGNET TO TEST THE FRAME.

2 I think my grandmother may have a few road bikes in storage somewhere, they were my aunts/uncles, if the frame fits, other than laughter are there any consequnces for a dude riding a women's bike?
HECK NO,MATE. IF YOU FIND A GOOD 'GIRLS' BIKE AND YOU LIKE IT.......RIDE IT. WOMEN SELDOM
WEAR DRESSES TO RIDE ANYMORE. IN EUROPE THE "GIRLS" BIKE IS MORE POPULAR BECAUSE IT
CAN BE USED BY MORE PEOPLE.

3 I did the inseam measurement mentioned on the nashbar website and got a final result of 54cm being the correct frame size for me? Being 6' tall, I figured either I'm short legged or something's fishy with my measurement. IF YOUR INSEAM IS 29" OR 30" YOU CAN RIDE A 19IN. OR 20IN. FRAME.


SEE CAPS ABOVE.

!. Try to look for decals on the lower end of the seat tube to determine the frame material. Other than that aluminum frames tend to have larger diameter tubes than steel frame. Looking an many bicycles you can begin to distinquish aluminum from steel.

2. If the frame is a mixte style is can be considered unisex. Many persons need a lower step through due to back or leg problems. Definitely check out the bikes your family has. You could find a real gem. Some maintenance may be needed. The members of this forum are happy to help out.

3, Your inseam length compared to torso plays a factor. Many men have a shorter inseam length as comparated to their upper body.

Riding 5 miles each way is an ideal distance for starting out. This short distance would pretty much be covered by just about any bicycle. No doubt, as you learn to love to commute, your distance will increase due to your freedom to make excursions. That's when you will start to look for a well-built bicycle with a strong frame and wheels that you can save up for. You mentioned the Kona. Did you read the post about the Kona Dr Dew?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=204317&highlight=dew

More info to ponder..........

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

With a 5 mile ride it makes little difference whether the frame is Al or steel, MTB, hybrid or touring style.
Look for good quality contruction, nice even welds or neat lugs.
The features you need on a commuter bike are:
tyre clearance: at least 28mm + fenders.
Rack and fender eyelets on frame.
You may have to spend on new tyres, chain, cables, brake blocks etc.
Beater bikes are a good , cheap way to get into cycling and a good example is just a nice to ride as an expensive new road bike.
With a dedicated commuter beater, you can spend money on a fun bike.

I'm currently commuting on an 80's Raleigh Technium... I paid $50 for it off of Craig's list, and it gets me the 8.5 miles to work great. The bike I was riding before that was a 1972 Schwinn Super Sport that I paid $20 for at a thrift store.

Bottom line is: Commuting doesn't have to have an expensive bike!

Between the two bikes, I have maybe $350 invested, and most of that was add-ons for the Raleigh, since I'm aiming to do a couple short (2-4 day) tours on it later this summer.

Besides, if you spend the money on the bikes over time, your 'better half' may not realize how much money you've put into your new toys!!!

"Bottom line is: Commuting doesn't have to have an expensive bike!" - I can't agree more

I have been commuting 5 miles each way for the last three years. I have accumulated a winter bike, GT mountain bike with studded tires, A rain bike, a full fendered raleigh hybrid with 700x38 tires, a Fuji 12 speed with partial fenders and a trekking bar and a Nishiki 12 speed, cow bar, no fenders for sunny days. I have never experienced any more than a flat tire on any of these in near 400 commutes, and have less than a hundred dollars in any of them.

My experience is buy a good quality bike that is out of fashion at a thrift or yard sale. All of these bkies carry a LBS sticker, which indicates they are more than deppartment store Junk. For a 5 mile commute find something that fits and get riding. Learn what you prefer or need before you plunk down for 'new'. For me th e variety and utility is the key.

Bent

I agree with the upright bike being the way to go. Try to find something on Craigslist or in the paper that is inexpensive.
The advantages when you are trying to commute on the cheap are huge, you won't (probably) need bike shorts, I use a set of basketball shorts I stole from my oldest son. Jockey makes a set of Pouch style boxers that are 100% wicking and no not have seams where you sit. Walmart carries a "UnderArmour" clone for under $10.
Save the extra $$ to buy a roadbike when you can afford it, but the "on the cheap" will get you on the road, then make the wife give you the difference you save by commuting and you'll get a quicker bike for harder rides later.

Tom

I'd stay away from road bikes for now, esp. in your price range. Several features make them novice-unfriendly; narrow, high-pressure tires (bumpy), short wheelbase (twitchy steering), relatively aggressive geometry (rough on back/neck). They also typically lack eyelets for racks/fenders.

I'd stick with hybrid. Don't think of it as the bike you'll be riding forever, but rather something to get you in shape, and learn on. If you know you want to get fast, look for something with rigid fork. Stick with wide, slick tires initially, and then switch to narrower ones when you feel stronger. When you start dropping roadies on weekend rides, get a proper road bike and keep the hybrid for commuting and rainy days.

Others may know more though.

A little more at-work phone/net research has limited (new bikes) to these options

Kona Dew, Kona Smoke, Trek FX 7.# series

The Dew and the Smoke price out the same so I'm more worried about comparing them. seems like i have to decide if i'd rather take a steel frame with 26inch wheels or an al frame with 700c's.
how hard is it to find narrow 26 inch tires? I imagine there's more variety in slick tires in the 700c category. could the smoke be converted to fit 700c's?

Any of those would work fine. I'd go w/ the trek 7.3 & the 700c wheels.
It's easy to find 1" 1.25" and 1.5" slicks for 26" wheels. I think those 26" wheeled bikes come w/ slicks, but you can order new ones from performance for about $8-10 per tire.
You might focus your research by calling local bike shops up to see what they stock. That way, it'll be convenient to try it out and pick it up. If there is a bianchi dealer... http://www.bianchiusa.com/06_boardwalk.html

well, I have the Trek 7100, not sure I'd get it again tho, its front fork has a shock as does the seat stem. Makes a soft comfortable ride, but there is def a performance hit, and as I am getting in better shape, I want the performance back.
As to tires, I would believe that the "stock" rubber that comes w/ the bike is going to do you for quite a while

Given the budget, and immediate use/needs, I'd second the 'fast' hybrid rec. -- Kona Dew (basic), Trek 7.2 or .3fx (the fx series don't have the useless susp. fork), or Specialized Sirrus (again, basic model). These all have good, durable frames which can be updated/upgraded over time, and will always serve as great comm. bikes if/when you decide to add a dedicated roadie. As to 26" wheeled bikes (and I think these are great w/1.5" slicks) -- if you have a Marin dealer nearby, take a very close look at the (very inexpensive) Muirwoods: a really good, light steel frame/fork mtb with appropriate gearing, and stock road tires; I think these can be had for right around 400 U.S. I've ridden both this and the Kona Smoke; the Marin is pretty much as tough, but is a much quicker ride.

For inexpensive, hassle-free transportation, I'd get an old English 3 speed. On the other hand, if you are interested in road bikes and only have the budget foir one bike, why not just get a road bike? My feeling is that a hybrid gives you all the inconvenience of a road bike without the advantage of high performance.

Paul

if you have a Marin dealer nearby, take a very close look at the (very inexpensive) Muirwoods: a really good, light steel frame/fork mtb with appropriate gearing, and stock road tires; I think these can be had for right around 400 U.S. I've ridden both this and the Kona Smoke; the Marin is pretty much as tough, but is a much quicker ride.

+1 for the Marin frames. Cromoly, strong, lightweight. I have a used 11 year old Marin MTB. I have replaced/upgraded a lot of components but the frame and rims rock.

This is probably the most common sense reponse for your (and many others) needs when it comes
to urban commuting. These old steel framed english 3 speeds were built for the masses who had
to travel by bicycle everyday. They are still a prefered bike in the rest of the world.

Sure they're not fancy or gee whiz in anyway while all the bike snobs disdain them but for pure everyday
get my a$$ from point A to point B the old 3speed owes no quarter to any other type of bike. THAT
type of use is what they were built for. ;) ;)

You can spend lots of money on another type of bike BUT you will not have a better bike for urban
commuting.

I agree that the three speed will probably work for commuting. Unless you have big hills to deal with; in that case, get a hybrid with lots of gears.

Look at hard tail mountain bikes. They are probably the best bang for the buck. Don't spend money on suspension or disc brakes. I commuted on a Raleigh M50 with a back pack for years, and it did just fine. And the lack of drop bars won't be that noticable over 5 miles.

Save a big portion of your budget for equipment--non-knobby tires, helmet, lights, pump, spare tube, tire levers, rain jacket, rack and panniers (not a necessity, but nice), etc.

Agree with some and disagree with others. First 5 miles sounds long, but is a very short commute. Only disadvantage of road bike is cost will be about a couple hundred higher. Craigs list is a great option. First thing you need to do is examine you commute.

1. What is the condition of the roads you will be riding? Think bike, not car. Any little bump in car will be huge bump on bike. If roads are mostly smooth, any bike will do. If roads are rough, with many potholes and grates, you need wider tires. Thus you'll need a hybrid/touring/cyclocross type of bike that can handle the wide tires.

2. How windy is it in your area? Go to weatherunderground or weather.com and look at the 12 month history and average wind speed. If winds are above 10mph, you'll want to be able to ride with less effort, and then will need a bike with drop handlebars so it's easier to keep pedalng.

Beyond that, frame material doesn't matter. Look at the quality level of your gear train and shifters. In shamino, your ideal would be 105, or higher, quality. Tires are important. Get some good tires, i.e. schwalbe or armadillo so you don't have to worry about flats. You won't find those as standard on bike. Fenders of some type can be added to almost any bike. You don't need a rear rack for 5 mile commute. You will need a saddle bag or a seat post rack and
bag.

Have fun!!!

Oh, forgot to mention. You might start by renegotiating the purchase price. Many LBS offer 0% financing for 6/12 months. The cost of driving is $.80/mile. [AAA]. It's easier to calculate with $1 a mile for ball park numbers. It would be very unusual for you to be able to commute every day. Figure about 10 days a month.

10 [days] x 10 [miles, round trip] x 1 [dollar] == savings $100 a month, or $1,200 a year.

Thus for a $1,050 bike, you need to make 132 5 mile commute rides. So sometime in the second year @ $.80 you would completely pay off the bike and each additional commute is another $10 saved.

FYI- you're also going to spend between $400 and $1,000 on cycling clothes and gear the first year in order to safely commute. Helmet, gloves, windbreaker, jerseys, lights[front/rear/side], cyclometer, bell, tires, tire pump, chain cleaner, seat bag, tire levers, tubes, mimi pump/co2 cartridge, simple bike tools, [reflective wheel/frame tape if riding in dark], mirror[s] [helmet/bar], balaclava[ski mask], winter riding jacket, [cycling pant coveralls if in cold climate] and cycling glasses.

If your discussion about cycling approaches cycling as a hobby, or rec activity, then you will be locked into a used bike and low purchase price. However, if you reset the discussion so cyclocommuting is an alternative to motor commuting, an expensive $2k bike and $1k of riding goodies, is still much cheaper than a used motor beater. I'd suggest setting target price for $1,500 for a new bike. Hey you get some rewards for doing the pedaling. You could compromise then down to the $1,100 or $1,200 level and have a very good dependable bike. Also remember to add in about $30 a month for gym/health club membership you don't need as you're on the road which is free.

Definitely find a decent used bike. Over the years I have found some tremendous used bikes, never over $150. They have included a Cannondale hybrid, Centurion road bike, and Takara touring bike...and I'm probably forgetting something! The point is that many folks buy bikes like they buy treadmills...they are purchased with good intentions, but after a few weeks see very little use. Since bike resale values are typically very low, a savvy shopper can get some good deals. Don't forget to scour your local classified ads, and actually make the calls to get the details on bikes that may show promise. The more tune-up work you are able to do yourself, the more you save. Can you replace tires and tubes, and a bike chain? How about a cable? If your ride is only 5 miles in daylight on good streets, you can probably ride it on anything you want. I would avoid a bike with any suspension unless it's a really killer deal, because it only adds weight and robs power on a street bike. A touring bike, hybrid, or mountain bike with 1.25-1.6 tire width (32-38C)
should do nicely. Get the bike that feels perfect when you get on it, and doesn't need a ton of work. And for Heaven's sake, don't buy a bike for the color! Paint doesn't make the bike any better or faster (unless it's yellow, which is aerodynamically superior on any bike IMHO). As far as how to tell steel from aluminum, got a magnet?

It’s amazing how many different opinions there are on commuter bikes. The way I see it is that it comes down to the frame. You have road bikes in one class, suspension MTBs in another class, and most of the rest including rigid tail MTBs, 3 speeds, touring bikes and hybrids in the same class. The third class is based on the traditional diamond or double diamond frame and with a few nuances these bikes at the core are essentially the same. To me the biggest difference is the weight and quality of the frame with the lighter frame being more desirable. After that it becomes what you attach to the frame: drop bars vs. flat bars vs. full up right, derailers vs. internal hubs vs. fixed/ss, skinny tires vs. fat tires. Each has its strengths and weakness for different situations and can be argued until the cows come home. My advise is to get a good fitting bike based on a good quality, light weight diamond frame whatever it is, touring, hybrid etc, with enough braze-ons and eyelets to attach stuff like fenders and racks. As time goes on you will figure out for your self what you like and dislike and how to customize it to meet your needs or buy another bike that is closer to your ideal set up.

First, breathe easy. There's a great chance you're not going to make a mistake in this. All bikes are really good at doing exactly what you want to do -- move down the road. It's the nuances that make us all crazy, and in cycling there are a million of them. You can find epic debates on the merits 5 mm worth of crank arm length, 9 speed verses 8 speed gearing, if red bikes really are faster (and they totally are!), and don't even bring up saddles!
My advice is this -- go ride bikes. Ride a lot of bikes. Make notes. Listen to other people, but in the end decide what feels right for you. Avoid the box stores simply because sooner or later you're going to need help and they can't give it to you. Find a a local shop and buy your bike from them. It will cost more, be okay with that. You're buying a lot more than a bike.
I don't want to count the number of bikes I've owned. I currently own a fast road bike, an excellent touring bike, and Frankenstien of a mountain bike that I have mutated into something of a road bike with drop bars and brifters and huge tires and fenders and racks and wheels that have the ability to ward off small arms fire. And I'm not going to count the two project frames in the basement waiting build- ups. I love them all. I've spent less than $500 on each, but thousands in getting them just right. If you get into this and stay in it, one bike won't be enough for you either. That's just the crappy truth.
I'm still looking for the perfect bike, the secret is we are all still looking for the one perfect bike. That and a "breathable" rain jacket!
So buy a bike a join us. Who knows, maybe you're the guy who'll figure it all out.

It would be very unusual for you to be able to commute every day. Figure about 10 days a month. Why is that? I know commuting on a bike is pretty unusual to start with, but if you decide to do that you can just as easily decide to do it practically every day and year-round. Of course you can also decide to be just a fair-weather commuter - which is fine too - but the point is that the choice is yours. If you WANT to commute by bike (almost) every day, there is nothing unusual in being able to do it.

P.S. This is my Franken-Ride http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4534/2115/1600/HardRock.jpg

Why is that? I know commuting on a bike is pretty unusual to start with, but if you decide to do that you can just as easily decide to do it practically every day and year-round. Of course you can also decide to be just a fair-weather commuter - which is fine too - but the point is that the choice is yours. If you WANT to commute by bike (almost) every day, there is nothing unusual in being able to do it.


Life gets in the way. I used the number based on my 18 month experience and cyclocommuters 15 year experience. Both of us track actual days riden and not guessimates. For example, my first year I rode 108 days. Ranging from a high of 16 in Sept and Oct to a low of 2 in feb. This year I tried to increase number of days and have 73 so far. With a low of 5 in Jan and high of 13 in May. So versus last year I'm 26 rides ahead of first year's pace. This year I started tracking reasons for no ride days. Here are typical examples for me:

dr appointment
dentist appint
vacation
sore body
too little sleep night before
physical therapy appt
holiday
lightning storms [cyclist was just killed yesterday by lightning not more than 5 miles away.]
snow/ice on road
heavy thunderstorms forcast
flu
work in another state
winds > 30 mph
meeting in distant city just after work
running late in am
bike down for repair/maintenance

For inexpensive, hassle-free transportation, I'd get an old English 3 speed. On the other hand, if you are interested in road bikes and only have the budget foir one bike, why not just get a road bike? My feeling is that a hybrid gives you all the inconvenience of a road bike without the advantage of high performance.

I'm not so sure about 3 speed or single speed bikes. The terrain will have a large impact on whether or not to go with a bike like that. Where I live, in order to commute, I need to use the lower gears just for around-town commuting. If the guy is just starting out, a 3 speed might not be able to get him up a hill.

Life gets in the way. I used the number based on my 18 month experience and cyclocommuters 15 year experience. Both of us track actual days riden and not guessimates. For example, my first year I rode 108 days. Well, granted, riding almost every day would be difficult or impossible for YOU to accomplish. But when it comes to other folks, especially those who don't live far from work (like the OP) and are for whatever reason committed to commuting on bike every day, they can work it out. (Especially if they are offered $10,000 if they succeed, nudge-nudge, wink-wink. :D)

If we look at your examples as they apply to my situation, most of them do not apply or do not prevent me from riding:

dr appointment
dentist appint

Those are fairly rare, and I manage to schedule most around the rest of my day. And I ride to them anyway: don't have a car, and it's faster than public transit.

vacation
holiday
flu

Sure! But you aren't driving on those days either.

sore body
too little sleep night before

I feel I can ride 5 miles (the OP's commuting distance) hurting all over just having pulled an all-nighter. Just take it easy. It might even make me feel better! I am, however, not at all comfortable with the idea of driving when I am extremely tired or sleepy...

lightning storms [cyclist was just killed yesterday by lightning not more than 5 miles away.]

Cars are more dangerous than lightning, especially in built-up areas. I ride in downtown Toronto through lightning storms. (I wouldn't ride or walk through an open field in those conditions however.)

snow/ice on road

Studded tires.

heavy thunderstorms forcast
winds > 30 mph

So? ;) :)

Actually, I don't rememeber every seeing a forecast of >30 mph winds for Toronto. Gusts up to that and a bit above - yes. So this doesn't really apply to me. I don't know how windy Lexington, U.S. is.

work in another state
meeting in distant city just after work

I don't do these things. I couldn't anyway, 'cause I don't have a car. I suspect a lot of other people don't do them.

running late in am

Well, I don't have a faster transportational option, you see. So if I'm running late - I'm gonna be late. I try not to run late.

bike down for repair/maintenance

What, you have only one bike?? :eek: :D

----------------------------------------

Granted, my situation is probably more unusual than yours. My only point is that the OP should base his estimates not on the most commonly found situation but on his own.

Well, granted, riding almost every day would be difficult or impossible for YOU to accomplish. But when it comes to other folks, especially those who don't live far from work (like the OP) and are for whatever reason committed to commuting on bike every day, they can work it out.


What, you have only one bike?? :eek: :D

Working on that issue. I have another bike picked out, but it's just a matter of dealing with an 8K expense in at a time the company is downsizing. Kind of hard to move on purchase with family right now.




Granted, my situation is probably more unusual than yours. My only point is that the OP should base his estimates not on the most commonly found situation but on his own.

My point is in reality good riders will commute 3 to 4 days a week on an average and not 5. A few may do 5, but most will find some reasons for riding MOST but not ALL days. As I recall cyccommuter's experience was about 3 days a week over a decade of cyclo commuting. The goal is to avoid new commuter discouragement by expecting to ride every day and getting bummed when realize only riding most days and not all days.

The goal is to avoid new commuter discouragement by expecting to ride every day and getting bummed when realize only riding most days and not all days. All right, when phrased this way, I agree completely. :)

well, I found a bike (two actually) I'll post pictures, but mine is a ~'70 Schwinn Varsity (or so the fella claimed, I'll get that verified w/ a pic as soon as it stops raining enough around here to drag the bikes in)
and my fiance picked up a 3 speed huffy (also looks to be considerably old). both look to be good steel frames w/ some definite cosmetic work in line, possibly some wheel tuning. the best part was that I only paid $120 for the both of them. Thanks much to everyone for helping guide me toward not investing a mint in my first real bike. I'm sure my LBS will see enough $ from me in parts/clothes/etc that losing that first sale won't seem so bad.

hahahah, scratch that about it being a varsity...the guy I bought it from had one, but it was too small for me. this is a "Sportabout", which according to the serial is a 76 or 77. still, its steel, 10spd (hopefully upgradeable) and has drop bars, so, i, my fiance and our checking accounts are happy. it's currently got 27"x1-1/4" wheels and some old cracked tires. any recommendations on durable budget rubber for this size? I've looked at performancebike and seen prices I liked, but don't know enough about how glass/nailproof the tires are.

Personally, I'd keep looking. A 10 speed. Great for memories but not great for rolling rides.

10 speeds are fine. Rolling rides or otherwise. They normally aren't too hard to upgrade to say a 14 speed, and that's plenty for most people.

Enjoy it! :)

10 speeds are fine. Rolling rides or otherwise. They normally aren't too hard to upgrade to say a 14 speed, and that's plenty for most people.

Enjoy it! :)

Been there, done it. It depends on riding. If riding is slow comfort riding and you don't care how long it will take to get from point A to point B and don't care how hard it is on the legs when you change gears, yes this bike would work for mostly level terrain.

But if you want to enjoy biking in all terrains, want to make it easier on the body and make it easy to deal with hills and winds, this is not a good choice.

See specs: http://www.geocities.com/sldbowners/1975/75ompg04.html
Chainrings: 39 52
Cassette: 14 17 20 24 28

shifting from 20 to 24, 21.4% change
shifting from 14 to 17, 20.0% change
shifting from 24 to 28 and 17 to 20, 17.6% change
lowest gear: 38 inches
highest gear: 100 inches
range, low to high: 62 inches


Force change in shifting gears
Gear5___Gear4___Gear3___Gear2___Gear1
16.7%__20.0%__17.6%__21.4%__17.6%

avg 18.7%


Today, hybrid triple [30.42.52 12:34]
avg 14.0%
lowest: 24 inches
highest: 117 inches
range: 93 inches [1/3 greater]


Today, Road hybrid triple [30.42.52 12:27]
avg 10.4%
lowest: 30 inches
highest: 117
range: 87 inches

General rule of thumb: 10% change is easy and preferred by road riders who want to keep their speed constant with little strain on body when changing gears. 14% change is today's average and standard. There will be a few shifting sequences where you will give up speed and have to increase effort a bit to keep going. 19% is tough shifting and you will really have to drop speed and increase power. A 1/5th change in effort is not easy on bodies. A youngster can hammer thru it, but as you get older or rack up more biking or running miles it gets harder and harder on the body.

[This is not just my valuation. Kiefer said:
27 gear inches like jogging up hill. 10% change most natural, to 12 for good shape, wider than 16 too big ]


If OP already owned the bike, it would work for getting started. However, it's still only a possibility. Why buy something 30 years old when you can buy a 10-15 year bike for $20 or $30 at a garage sale and have an immensely superior riding experience?

To be fair, old touring bikes came with triples also. My Specialized Expedition Touring for example: Chain rings 24-38-48 & 6 speed Freewheel 13-26. It would probably produce more comparable percentages & ranges. Older touring bikes aren't that rare, I have acquired 3 for very reasonable prices over the years(Expedition, Motobecane & Centurion). Just pointing out that comparing an old double to a newer triple distorts things a bit. Don

That works out to $60 for a Huffy 3-speed! That's not what I call a good deal. I wouldn't touch anything that says "Huffy" on it with a 3-yard-long stick!

A functional 10-speed on the other hand seems reasonable to me. It's funny how in the same thread 3-speeds are deemed the greatest bikes for commuting and then 10-speeds are disparaged for not having enough gears. ;)

There are a lot of options. I'm sure that Diamondback is a fine road bike for the money, but it's not an ideal commuting rig - you really want something which can handle wider tires and fenders.
I commuted for 4 years on a Diamondback Crestview hybrid, and it worked very well for me. It was a little heavy, but came with the wider tires and accomodated fenders just fine. It cost me about $250 new from my LBS. Eventually, however, the components all wore out at about the same time and I decided to move on.

I agree with others that for a 5-mile commute, pretty much any bike that fits properly will work. My commute is also 5 miles, and since selling the Crestview cheap, I've been switching back and forth between a Trek 830 with road slicks, and a Jamis Quest with flat bars and some other modifications, both used, obtained for under $200 total. Maybe your answer is get a nice cheap used commuter now, so you can take your time to decide on, and save up for, the road bike you really want later.

I'm currently doing 8.5 miles each way 5 days a week on my Raleigh that's actually a little too big for me... Hopefully I'll be able to get into the bike shop with a little cash in my pocket and get some parts I need.... the stem is TOOOOOO long on this, makes me put too much weight on my wrists.

I'm also hauling around 20 lbs of 'stuff' with me each way.

It's really not THAT hard!

As far as tires go, I'm running a pair that I picked up at Performance pretty cheap... Forte GT2/k Kevlar belted... I haven't had a flat since I put them on around 3 weeks ago, and I've run through numerous patches of glass that our friendly townsfolk have left strewn about the streets here-abouts.

The bike has a puncture resistant tube in the front, and I slimed the back tube because it had a slow leak and I got tired of topping it off twice a day.

Picked up a set of grocery panniers at Dicks sporting goods for $35, they're great for hauling stuff back and forth.

Including pump, tools and clothes(I wear the underarmor-type stuff from Walmart under my clothes), I've got less than $300 invested( around $350 or so if you count my OTHER bike), and I've saved around $500 in gas so far! (I have a real gas guzzler of a truck!)

I have other options for getting to work, including the bus and carpooling, and I get numerous offers for rides throughout the week, but I'm really enjoying the time on the bike!

I do the same length commute on a Trek Mtn bike with slicks and a rack and trekking bars. works great for me. Of course I already had the Mtn bike, just converted it to a commuter... eventually I may upgrade to a Trek 1000 or something. maybe try to find something used.