Road Cycling - Quest for a "good" race bike

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Hi all,
I own a '03 Specialized Allez Sport (triple) and plan on entering my first race sometime this year or the next. In my quest for a race bike, a few options have presented themselves to me.
1) I could upgrade to better components (albeit used). A co-worker has offered to sell me the Ultegra components (double) off his '98 Schwinn. The gruppo doesn't have too many miles on it. My friend (a racer) will inspect the compnents just to make sure everything's in good condition. I also don't plan on spending more than $300-400 for everything.
2) I could just buy a better bike with a better components, frame, wheels, etc. If this was the case, I would like to get an Ultegra-outfitted bike for $1500-2000.
3) Do nothing. Just ride!
Money is a bit tight right now since I'm about to get married and I just bought a house. I could afford to do option 1 by the spring. If I went for option 2, I would have to wait until Christmas or next year.
I understand training is essential to racing success. As such, I've been training with my buddy. (He's mapped out a training plan from now 'til next December!)
BTW, my current bike fits me well. Here's the link:
http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?san=03AllezSport27&bl=road&my=2003
On a related note, can someone explain what "race geometry" is. In other words, how does geometry make it race-worthy?
Thanks for your time.
Why not just ride it and see what happens.That far out,who knows?For most road bikes,unless you are top amature or pro,race geomerty is BS. As long as you are not trying to race a touring cross or hybrid,just go do it.Take a look at gemetry on cannondale caad4 or better,Trek 2300 or 5200 or lemond Steel or Ti. Notice the dirfferences,but they are all race bikes
Race geometry is just quicker handling and steeper geometry. It usually means steeper angles for the head/seat tubes and shorter chainstays--that type of thing.
You have a new bike so I wouldn't change it--especially since you are on a budget. If anything, maybe a double front crank or new chainrings to get 53/39 combo for racing. Other than that, I would spend money on a light wheelset.
I know people with 105 parts that race and it is just fine.
Pokey/RacerX,
Thanks for the informative replies. I appreciate all the help/advice/info I can get from the experienced ones.
RacerX,
If I change to a double, won't I have to change the BB, front/rear derailleur as well? Would I need to change the shifters?
Thanks again for the help.
Originally posted by ohsfan
If I change to a double, won't I have to change the BB, front/rear derailleur as well? Would I need to change the shifters?
To change to a double and do it right,means crank,/bb,front and rear derailers. The derailers are optional.9 speed shifters shift a double or triple. For just starting out,if you don't need the triple,just block the shift to the granny with the low limit screw,You could even remove the granny ring to save a few grams...I have heard of people racing Trek 1000s with Sora.Why spend a bundle unless you know you ae going to stick with it?
I'm not sure about STI shifters but I don't think a double crank will require a new STI lever. Maybe you would need a new BB (but an Ultegra or 105 BB is awfully cheap-so it won't hurt) and you can pick up a 105 or Ultegra crankset cheap on ebay or even new they aren't that bad.
If it is incompatible, you can try to buy just the chainrings and move your front derailleur up a bit to accomadate the 53. Since you mentioned you have a triple, I'm assuming you don't have a 53 or 39 on there. If you have a 42, that maybe ok too-- then you only have to buy a 53t chainring and you are good to go.
Try for the absolute minimal investment for now. Your bike is really good so there is no need to change stuff unless you absolutely have to.
Originally posted by pokey
Why spend a bundle unless you know you ae going to stick with it?
Originally posted by RacerX
Try for the absolute minimal investment for now. Your bike is really good so there is no need to change stuff unless you absolutely have to.
Good points.
Originally posted by RacerX
I'm not sure about STI shifters but I don't think a double crank will require a new STI lever. Maybe you would need a new BB (but an Ultegra or 105 BB is awfully cheap-so it won't hurt) and you can pick up a 105 or Ultegra crankset cheap on ebay or even new they aren't that bad.
If it is incompatible, you can try to buy just the chainrings and move your front derailleur up a bit to accomadate the 53. Since you mentioned you have a triple, I'm assuming you don't have a 53 or 39 on there. If you have a 42, that maybe ok too-- then you only have to buy a 53t chainring and you are good to go.
Any shimano 9 speed lever other than pre 2002 DAshift a double or triple. Not changing the BB and putting a double crank on a triple BB spindle length is just like taking the granny off the triple. No net gain.For a beginner,switching the 42/52 to a 39/53 is a bit AR.IMHO.
RiPHRaPH
02-01-03, 08:10 AM
i have always read that you don't want to ride your great, lifetime of saving bike in a beginners race as there might me jostling and uneven lines/lanes that could lead to crashes.
i don't know for sure though. i am not of the caliber to race. can get up to race speeds, but crash and burn too quickly.
WoodyUpstate
02-01-03, 09:38 AM
Race at least once before you committ to components that you may not need or stretch your budget. I know many cyclists - MTB and road - who raced once and hated it.
2nd point. . . wheels will make a better race-day upgrade than going to a double. If the 42 middle ring is too high a gear, change your cassette so you don't have to drop to the little ring.
Well, my co-worker offered me his whole Ultegra gruppo for $150. He doesn't plan to ride his Schwinn anymore (since bought his Litespeed) and just wants to get something back for it. Unless it's in bad condition, I'll probably go with this option.
If racing's not my bag, at least I'll end up with a relatively inexpensive upgrade! I really appreciate everyone's input. I'll keep you posted on how everything turns out.
roadbuzz
02-01-03, 06:03 PM
Well, getting rid of the long-throw rear der cage will improve shifting. Make sure you get it shifting right... especially the front der... a dropped chain would ruin your day and potentially cause a wreck.
If you need wider range gearing for recreational use, I don't know what's available in the 105 line, but if an Ultegra cassette will work on 105 (pokey?) you can put on a 12-27 to get a reasonably wide range of gearing for non-mountainous riding.
orguasch
02-09-03, 03:27 PM
if you getting married soon, better get on your bike, biking makes for better family life I mean you know what I mean, you will be very active
Originally posted by orguasch
if you getting married soon, better get on your bike, biking makes for better family life I mean you know what I mean, you will be very active
I do know what you mean! ;)
Well, my buddy took a look at the gruppo and everything looks to be in good shape (other than the dirt). We'll probably put everthing on starting next week. I let everyone know how it turns out!
stridercc
02-09-03, 09:06 PM
Because its going to be your first season racing I would say just ride it out. At the lower end (cat 4/5) how good you are depends on what kind of shape you are in, and not the bike your on(assuming some form of road bike). The bike doesn't really start to play a big role until you get to the more elite level (cat 1/2) where everyone is just an animal. Last year was my first racing season and I did just fine on my lower level bike. However, if you do decided to do something about your bike don't go for option one. For that kind of money you sould be able to get close to a complete bike from 1998 with ultegra on it. Just my thoughts.
-Matt-
That 03 Allez sport is not a bad frame and the ultegra components will make it race worthy. Is it 9speed ultegra?
But I agree with you just going out and racing.
I raced a Bridgestone RB2 for 3 seasons without replacing any components. That bike was at least a kilo heavier than the opposition but I still finished with the bunch.
Comfort on the bike is far more important. Spend the money on getting the bike just right for your physique and then get some good wheels.
"An Once off the wheels is worth 10 off the Frame."
shokhead
02-10-03, 07:02 AM
If you do go for another bike,i saw somewhere,maybe c cyclist,a douglas roadbike with ultegra group and 7005 frame and velomax wheels for like 1500 bucks,not bad?
TimB,
Yes, it's a 9-speed Ultegra. Getting a whole group for $150 seems like a good deal to me. I look forward to the upgrade.
Brahman Bull
02-10-03, 07:26 PM
ohsfan - how do you like your bike? I am selling my MTB and switching to the road and the Allez sport is on the top of my list. Is it a quick bike? Good steering? Etc...
I say just race it once and go from there to see what you may need. Whatever you do, Good Luck training and with the race!
shokhead
02-11-03, 07:05 AM
like the sequoia expert myself and almost got one but my felt was cheaper with a better rear derailleur.
Originally posted by Brahman Bull
ohsfan - how do you like your bike? I am selling my MTB and switching to the road and the Allez sport is on the top of my list. Is it a quick bike? Good steering? Etc...
I say just race it once and go from there to see what you may need. Whatever you do, Good Luck training and with the race!
My bike's great...it's quick, handles well, etc. It's definitely what I was looking for at the time. If I knew I was going to enjoy the sport as much as I do, I would've ponied up the extra cash for a bike w/better components. Although $800 for a bike w/ Tiagra/105 components and a CF fork is pretty good.
Have fun shopping! :D
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