Touring - Help with chainring for CC rider!

I am currently riding across america and am new to road riding and touring. I bought a used 2003 Novara Rondonee assuming it had a good touring setup. I heard about cassettes and switched my 12-28 with a 11-32. But now that I'm out I'm realizing that I still need lower gearing. I have a 52-42-30, I can't believe they sell them that way!! My gf has the same setup and just purchased a 26T chainring to switch out with her current 30T. I am wondering how easy it is to do this. The bike shop in Bakercity OR thinks it'll be ok. I am not going to hit another bike shop until Missoula, MT and am wondering if I should switch my 30 with a 26, (we heard a 24 would give us shifting problems, any other opinions on a 24-42-52 shifting well?)? I would like to eventually get rid of my 50T since I don't use it. My question is can I just buy 48-36-24 or 46-36-26 chainrings individually and switch each of them or do I have to get a mtn bike crank set, or do I need a crank set with a new bottom bracket too?? I am hoping I can just get three new chainrings piece meal, instead of a full set, and I definatly don't want to buy a new BB too. Anyways, someone help me out. I am on the transAm, so I would need to buy a crank remover, order it, and send it general delivery to some town in ID before I cross the bitterroots. Thanks, I hope I get quick responses because I will check this tommorrow night and order something quick before more hills kill me.
thanks
robby

Oh, I have an 8 speed, with a deore mtn rear derailer.

I found a Shimano Nexave FC-T410 Crankset (42-32-22), that says it goes on 8-speed bikes and is good because it doesn't usually need BB replacement since it is square-taper and has 118mm spindle recommended. I can't even tell you what my spindle is, or even what one is for that matter! But it is $34 for the whole set, and thats cheaper than the 26 chainring my friend just bought.

Another Deore set is 9-speed, so I'm not sure if that would work, but it fits a BB with 68/73x110.5, 113 tapered spindle. And has a 44-32-22 (which I like better because I think 42 is pretty low for a high gear).

There are a few other sets with gearing I like best 48-36-26 on this Shimano Trekking set for $69 but it says "Requires the use of a longer bottom bracket spindle, BB-ES51 68mm or 73mm shell width by 121mm or 126mm spindle length" and I don't know what that means. Again, I need help.
thanks
robby

I run a 26 on a 105 crank (the rest are whatever stock is).
I'd highly recommend the smaller ring, you will be happoy you had it.
I do have slightly more problems with chainsuck, but only like 10 times in over 1000mi. The key is to get the front derailluer dialed, which was much easier for me than most as I have friction shifting up front. Just needed the limiters. All you need to do if the 26 fits your crank is switch em out and adjust. You don't need to touch the other rings unkless you want lower gearing there. The one disadvantage is that there is a big drop from middle to low, and you need to prepare for that or you can lose some serious momentum on hills.
Also, if you have a modern splined BB, I doubt you need a crank puller. Can't say I've used one in a very long time.
Also, I need to know what you have. I have a 105 FD with bar end shifters.

Try out the Nexave - it should work and will lower your gears all around to something manageable for touring. I've dealt with this same issue and changing the crankset was a much better solution than just getting a smaller small ring.

I think its a Shimano Tiagra FD. It clicks 4 times when going up, I guess for help trimming. I have kind of STI. The brake levers click to move it down, but there is a thumb button to go up. Sorry, I'm not near my bike to say what it is.

So I guess I've only worked on old bikes, newer bikes you can just pull the crank off?? Thats cool, I could do it whenever I get it on the road.

So one suggested to just get a 26, and another to get the Nexave. So for either of those solutions, would I just pull it off switch the ring or full set and put it back on?? Would I need to shorten the chain?
My bikes fork is bent so I will be in BakerCity another day. Thanks for help everyone.

So I guess I've only worked on old bikes, newer bikes you can just pull the crank off?? Thats cool, I could do it whenever I get it on the road.

Ask on the mechanics forum before you try that. :) I didn't think it worked that way...

Ask on the mechanics forum before you try that. :) I didn't think it worked that way...
Depends on your crank. All my recent ones were easy-peasy.

My crank is 175mm and it is square tapered.
Still wondering about shortening the chain or if it is an easy switch.

There are cranks that have self-extracting bolts and need no puller to remove the crank. It's easy enough to find out if you have one. Try removing a crank bolt. If it comes out on it's own, then you need a crank puller.

If you want to try a 24t ring, then order both 24t and 26t. Use the one that works best and return the other for credit. That way you won't lose any more time than necessary.

You may find that your FD cage does not extend far enough down for the chain to clear a 24t ring. If you removed your big ring, you could lower it and possibly make it work for the two smaller rings. You may also need to remove a couple links from your chain so get a chain tool if you do not already have one.

Don't forget to buy a chainring bolt tool. This is a simple device designed to engage the two slots on the back side of the chainring bolts so you can loosen and tighten them. It's a cheap tool that will save you considerable trouble.

Speaking from experience....

I rode across the US with 52-42-26, and whilst it works the shifting from 26-42 was always a problem and I was continually havign to adjust the front derailer which became a complete pain in the butt. My Tiagra front derailer also ended up breaking (not sure if this was the reason) and I had to replace it. Also, the jump from 26-42 was too big and left an ugly gap in my gear range

Depedning on your bolt pattern it can be expensive to buy all new chainrings. Take my advice - bite the bullet and buy a proper touring or MTB crank for less than $100....that's what I will do next time to save all the mucking about and frustration. You may even find a friendly bikeshop en route that will do you a good trade for your current crankset and bottom bracket (if required)

Help with chainring for CC rider!
Thanks, but I don't need a new chain ring right now. :p