Classic & Vintage - Bent Campy Super Record rear derailleur cage?

It appears as though the pulley cage on my Campagnolo Super Record rear derailleur is *ever so slightly* bent, or should I say twisted. The pulleys appear to be perfectly in line with each other, but after dozens of times sighting down the two pulleys, I've determined (I think) that the cage is slightly slightly twisted. I say "I think" because the tweak is so slight, I can't make up my mind if its actually tweaked or not! I'm curious to know if I should attempt to straighten it out, or just leave it? I havent yet installed this derailleur so I'm not sure if it will cause an issue. Thanks.

Curious, is it a first-gen or second-gen model? Not that I believe it would matter, but I thought it would be of help to take into account whether yours features the longer or shorter pulley cage, for I would be a tad cautious about re-bending the longer cage for fear of fracture.

-Kurt

You need to install it to be sure.

Thanks, I'm not sure which generation it is. The cage seems pretty short and the Patent stamp on it is from '84. If it is the short cage derailleur, would it still be in danger of fracture if I twisted the cage a little bit? When sighting from the back of the derailleur along the two pulleys, the closer one, the tension pulley, is 1 or 2 degrees twisted counter-clockwise. Heres a photo. Its taken at an angle which makes the tweak look a little worse than it actually is.
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/6146/10045663lw.jpg
I suppose I might have to wait until I can install it to see if its a problem.

FWIW It's a second generation der.

I would remove the whole cage assy. Take apart, then straighten each cage plate individually. I would try squeezing each plate in bench vise, using a couple of flat scraps of wood on each side to prevent damaging the cage.

You can still find repacement cages for those. I think I have a set somewhere. If you want them, PM me and I'll dig for them.

You can still find repacement cages for those. I think I have a set somewhere. If you want them, PM me and I'll dig for them.

If you go with Dirtdrop's replacement cage, I'd be interested in taking the bent ones off your hands. Do let me know.

-Kurt

You can have mine if you want them. I replaced them because of a scratch on the inside of the cage and then sold the derailer. They're free since I have no use for them, but I'll tell you that I'm desparate for a decent 26.2 seatpost. I used oven cleaner to remove anodizing and left it on too long. The post looks like the salt finish they put on on concrete around swimming pools.

I appreciate the help everyone. Dirtdrop - I'll take you up on that offer. I'll PM you. How decent of a 26.2 seatpost? My LBS has an excellent spare parts room and I'm confident I could find a seatpost for you. I'll see if I can find anything decent. And Kurt, I'll definitely send you my old cage .

You can have mine if you want them. I replaced them because of a scratch on the inside of the cage and then sold the derailer. They're free since I have no use for them, but I'll tell you that I'm desparate for a decent 26.2 seatpost. I used oven cleaner to remove anodizing and left it on too long. The post looks like the salt finish they put on on concrete around swimming pools.

EDIT: As I figured, the above was for R.R.

As for that post...

Have you tried polishing the aluminum back to a shine? Start with 120 grit sandpaper, then 250, 400, 600, 800, 1500, then buff and polish this resulting finish with a polishing compound such as 3M Microfinishing Compound. The result should be a mirror finish. Doesn't matter whether it doesn't have any anodizing left on it.

-Kurt

And Kurt, I'll definitely send you my old cage .

Thank you! Will PM my address to you.

-Kurt

Dirtdrop,
I had the exact same problem, except for I used an actual anodic remover. I left my dura-ace seatpost in there for too long and the whole thing came out pitted. I sanded and sanded, polished and polished. Its still pitted, but the seatpost is extremely polished. It just has a bunch of tiny black dots all over a mirror like shine! If you wanna send me your seatpost along with that cage, I would be happy to try and polish it for you. I've got a buffing wheel and a few different polish compouds. I'm PMing you my address now.



EDIT: As I figured, the above was for R.R.

As for that post...

Have you tried polishing the aluminum back to a shine? Start with 120 grit sandpaper, then 250, 400, 600, 800, 1500, then buff and polish this resulting finish with a polishing compound such as 3M Microfinishing Compound. The result should be a mirror finish. Doesn't matter whether it doesn't have any anodizing left on it.

-Kurt

EDIT: As I figured, the above was for R.R.

As for that post...

Have you tried polishing the aluminum back to a shine? Start with 120 grit sandpaper, then 250, 400, 600, 800, 1500, then buff and polish this resulting finish with a polishing compound such as 3M Microfinishing Compound. The result should be a mirror finish. Doesn't matter whether it doesn't have any anodizing left on it.

-Kurt

Actually, that post was for you since I didn't hear from RR. It all worked out, everybody won. I only mentioned the seatpost after seeing the pictures you posted in another thread.

I do a lot of polishing, but I don't go to all of that trouble. I use power tools. A Porter Cable 1/4 sheet sander, some hand sanding with emery paper, 0000 steel wool and then buffing with rouge on a cotton wheel mounted on a drill press.

You can only buy these in black:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/550315581/2357469930068014369ISyCwl

If I polished out the craters on the post I ruined, it would be way too loose in the frame. It was an old black Kalloy. It's not worth spending any more time on, anyway.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/552101272/2815625520068014369henEVp

I think I'll take the Zeus off of the Gitane and put it on the Raleigh. The Gitane should have a proper Simplex.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/315574737/1315664678068014369dzAUuK

I already replaced that 531 decal with a French one.

Actually, that post was for you since I didn't hear from RR. It all worked out, everybody won. I only mentioned the seatpost after seeing the pictures you posted in another thread.

I do a lot of polishing, but I don't go to all of that trouble. I use power tools. A Porter Cable 1/4 sheet sander, some hand sanding with emery paper, 0000 steel wool and then buffing with rouge on a cotton wheel mounted on a drill press.

I see. Well, sorry to say that I only have one 26.2 post...and it's in my Nishiki! Funny thing, with all the machines I have, my seatpost box is pretty much a collection of cheap, 1" steel posts. I have one alloy 26.0 stem, and that's just about it. Didn't even have the clamp attachment for it until I wrecked a similar SR post after yanking it out of a frame.

Well, when you're polishing hubs and other odd shaped tools, it's not easy getting power sanders on them accurately. The buffing wheel sounds nice though.

Take care,

-Kurt

Well, when you're polishing hubs and other odd shaped tools, it's not easy getting power sanders on them accurately. The buffing wheel sounds nice though.

Better than me clenching a drill-mounted buffing pad between my knees!

It looks as if you guys have it all figured out. but, if you were to straighten it, i had succsess straightening mine which was bent and twisted. I did this without disassembly. It shifts great now. i turned the bike upside down and with the chain on i shifted the cage to be in line with the big ring. The chain aids in sighting for straighness. Then with two adjustable wrenchs, i clasped the full cage at the pully and twisted it straight with the other wrench holding the cage at the other pully steady. then i did the same thing again bending the hole cage straight in relation to the parallelagram. I just did little bends at as time with the metal warm hot to reduce stressing.