Commuting - can anybody help a newbie choose a good commuting bike?

Hey I'm new at this and I was wondering if anybody can help me pick a good bike for commuting to school with. The main thing I am looking for is a good balance between speed and comfort because I will be carrying quite a lot of medical/nursing textbooks in a Deuter 1850 cubic in. backpack. Basically, I want the fastest comfortable commuter bike out there. Another big factor in my commute is a 1 mile, almost 20% grade hill I must overcome each trip :eek: I've tried biking up from my house (7 miles one-way) using a mongoose dual-suspension 21-speed mtb I got at Wal-Mart for 99 bucks. Definitely the worst kind of bike for going uphill but its the only bike I have so far. Took me 12 mins to get up the hill after stopping a couple of times to catch my breath. As a side note, I will be riding only on the road which calls for a road bike, not a MTB.

I've been looking mostly at two bikes so far. The Specialized Sirrus and Allez (which is significantly more expensive). I'm not sure whether I should go for drop or flat bars. With dropped bars, I think the brakes may not be sufficient enough to go downhill unlike the V-Brakes on the Sirrus. However, I do like dropped bars because of the different hand positions I can use. I guess the real question is how much difference in speed and comfort can I feel with dropped vs flat bars. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

I am looking at commuters also, currently riding a C'dale roadie. I like the Kona Jake & or Jake the Snake, lots of bike for the buck. Also the REI Rondoneer another possiblity, all have drop bars......
:)

I have a Schwimm Fastback, pretty cheap and strong. The downside is it doesn't have a rack braze-ons.

If you're just gonna use it for commuting and errands, put some drops on the Sirrus. If you want to do some recreational road rides, get the Allez. Whatever you get, ride before you buy to see if you like it and make sure it's got braze-ons for racks and fenders.

Hey thanks for all your inputs so far. Does drop bars affect my braking power and won't it be a hassle to mount drops on a Sirrus?

Mounting drops is not cheap. Brifters(brake/shifter) are expensive.
If you want drops, get drops.

Yeah, switching to drops is not cheap. Comfort at typical commuter speed = more upright = flat bars or different geometry such as cyclocross or maybe touring. You can always try to raise the bars on a road bike such as the allez, but the range of adjustment will be over a lower more aero position.
Also, the option for a rack and panniers is probably good. There are some cyclocross bikes w/ pannier rack eyelets. Cyclocross bikes also usually come w/ an extra set of break levers on the tops of the bars (some like this for commuting, since it gives you brakes on the upright position). You also get room for bigger tires, which is generally nice on a commute bike. Cyclocross or touring bikes will also stand up better to a big load (if you really have lots of weight in books). It all kind of depends on your riding style. If you are going to go as fast as you can, a road bike may be better in the long run. On the other bikes, you will probably be sneaking way up to the front of the seat while hammering on flats, and wishing that you had lower drops and a steeper seat tube angle. Drop bars definitely help with this.
Definitely condiser a rack and pannier. You can get a briefcase pannier that unclips and gives you a shoulder carried bag. Although some swear by messenger bags, for me it's a lot more fun to ride w/ the load on the bike.

I strongly second the suggestion for a rack and panniers or a rack trunk. I can't imagine doing that commute with textbooks on my back.

The Sirrus seems to have more favourable gears for climbing, with 28/26 teeth front/rear compared to 30/25 for the Allez triple, but neither of them is going to be geared like a mountain bike. So you may discover that the Mongoose was not the problem!

Panniers are far easier to transport books in than a backpack, or at least get a rack you can strap your backpack onto. You can also get folding wire baskets on the side of your rear rack that open out and let you drop the back pack in.

Fenders are worthwhile too, since you don't know what the weather will be like when you head home.

If I were going to buy an off-the-rack commuting bike to use in a California climate with hills and maybe baggage, I'd look at this:

http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=47968741&parent_category_rn=4500922

http://a1072.g.akamai.net/f/1072/2062/1d/gallery.rei.com/media/755679.jpg
Unlike a lot of bikes, this one has real Shimano hubs, crank and bottom bracket. It also has a very low climbing gear (34 teeth in back, 26 in front, it doesn't get too much lower than that). Braking should be adequate, test-ride one at an REI store and see how you like it.

A bike of that price level is going to call for some pretty good locks and proper locking technique on a college campus. If it were my $1000 bike at stake, I'd probably use a Kryptonite New York Chain (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=2736&atf=products_item&pgrp=20) to lock the rear wheel & frame to something very strong, and then lock the front wheel & frame to eachother and hopefully to a solid object using a second lock, perhaps a Kryptonite Evolution2000 U-lock. I favor locking to railings made of heavy welded pipes, since they usually afford you the ability to lock both the front and the rear of the bike to the railing, preferably separate pieces of the railing.

A Kryptonite New York U-lock would be another option as a primary lock, but not as flexible... you can't lock to a large streetlight pole with a U-lock, for example.

The Sirrus seems to have more favourable gears for climbing, with 28/26 teeth front/rear compared to 30/25 for the Allez triple, but neither of them is going to be geared like a mountain bike. So you may discover that the Mongoose was not the problem!

Panniers are far easier to transport books in than a backpack, or at least get a rack you can strap your backpack onto. You can also get folding wire baskets on the side of your rear rack that open out and let you drop the back pack in.

Fenders are worthwhile too, since you don't know what the weather will be like when you head home.


I'd like to thank you all for the advice! I am surprised that this forum is so helpful. I only expected 3-4 replies at most :o

Anyway, my mountain bike is geared at 24/28T for climbing. But after I've tried climbing the hill once, I HATE that ratio. It seems I go more backwards than forwards hammering up the hill. Feels like I'm pedaling forever and only going an inch a min :mad: I think I'm going to go with the Sirrus (have to sacrifice some speed on a flat for some comfort). A thousand dollar bike will probably be stolen on the first day at my ghetto school. Guess I won't be needing any of my books to class either since I just got a laptop. Racks are not an option because those would probably be stolen if not my bike. Poor college students are desperate to sell anything! :D

Maybe if I wanted to go dropped I can also mod the sirrus since I will be working at a bike shop soon and all orders I place will be wholesale price. But once again, I appreciate all your help!

first, and foremost, get your gear (books etc) off you back and onto rack/pannier bags (saddle-bags). let the bike carry the load! you can carry your pannier(s) to class if needed (done it/did it)
what distance are you riding? do you ride a bicycle regularly? are you mechanically inclined (can you fix a flat tire)?
these are some of the things to consider if commutingby bicycle.
good luck!

Before you go buy that Sirrus:

I bought a flat bar road bike when I first started commuting (Fuji Absolute). It now has drops, but at considerable expense. (of course it also has a lot of new things...). I don't regret buying that bike, since it was like being able to build a bike while also riding said bike, and figuring out what I really needed. I purchased it at discount from its clearance price, so it was like simply buying the frame.

Flats do NOT equal more comfort. Otherwise I would have stuck with them. Drops aren't just for speed; the variety of hand and body positions affords you much greater comfort over the course of a ride, plus an ergonomically correct refuge from the wind...as you increase your speed and fitness, you'll find that the wind is a worse enemy than any hill.

To convert to a drop bar, you will need to purchase: 1 drop bar: $40. 1 stem: $35. "Brifters" (if you go "high tech"): $250. Cantilever brakes (if you are concerned with using your existing bosses or with fender clearance): $60. Brake cable hangers: $10. Bar tape, maybe several times: $12. Even if you don't go with brifters, you'll then need Dia Compe 287 V levers: $60, and bar-end shifters: $40. This is a prohibitively expensive modification. I know, I did it, but like I mentioned I had a killer deal on the original purchase, so in the end I wasn't really "set back".

V-brakes are not necessarily more powerful than calipers or cantis...they simply give clearance for mud and big tires. I think you'll also find that if you ride smart your brakes are a seldom used safety accessory. I'm more concerned usually with maintaining my forward velocity on my commute, rather than stopping it.

The problem with the Mongoose is the weight and the suspension, and I bet you have knobbies on there too. A full suspension is a device cleverly designed to sap kinetic energy from every pedal stroke. Knobbies also offer a great deal of rolling resistance.

I would encourage you to look at the Specialized Sequoia, if you are looking into that brand. The Sequoia has favorable gearing, a more "relaxed" geometry for the comfort you seek (usually achieved by having the top of the drop bar level with the saddle), and eyelets and attach points for a rack, from which you can hang panniers to carry your stuff in. You'll be amazed at how much better you feel with that bag off your back.

Flat bars were the first handlebars, and curve or drop bars were invented to overcome their deficiencies.

I was, by the way, fairly low in some of my price estimates...depending on the quality of components, you could go a LOT pricier than that.

And now I will try to ignore the fact that you spell "boy" like an Avril Lavigne album...

I'm more concerned usually with maintaining my forward velocity on my commute, rather than stopping it....

I would encourage you to look at the Specialized Sequoia, if you are looking into that brand. The Sequoia has favorable gearing, a more "relaxed" geometry for the comfort you seek (usually achieved by having the top of the drop bar level with the saddle)...


Thanks for the advice. I already looked into the Sequoia. Considering the dreaded hill I must encounter, I do not know if the 30/27t gearing will be adequate for the climb. And speaking of that hill, I am more concerned about safety on the steep descent. From where I live, braking comes before velocity with all the blind drivers we have.

Also, sorry about the "boy." I had no idea people here are so sensitive to spelling ;)

Cyclocross, at least for me. Setup like a road bike, will take the punishment from the bad pot hole filled roads however. Very sturdy, and pretty fast

The Raleigh One Way looks kinda like the REI bike pictured above, but it's a singlespeed and has fenders and a rack. Depending on the hills, this may or may not be a good option for you.

And Big Boi from Outkast spells "boy" the same way and he's got millions of dollars and hot video girls surrounding him. Just sayin'.

And Big Boi from Outkast spells "boy" the same way and he's got millions of dollars and hot video girls surrounding him. Just sayin'.

haha...Is it true that flat bars are more comfortable and have better steering than drops? It would seem so if one were to use motorcycles as an example.

haha...Is it true that flat bars are more comfortable and have better steering than drops? It would seem so if one were to use motorcycles as an example.Apples and oranges, I'm afraid. On a motorcycle, the bars don't bear any of your weight. On a bicycle, they do. On a motorcycle, you don't need to pull on the bars to climb, or duck down to get out of the wind. On a bicycle, you do.

Thus, more available hand postions of a drop bar let you change positions as required for performance and every now and again for comfort. And as someone else said above, remember the wind--it won't forget you. Drops get you down comfortably to reduce the surface area you present to the headwinds.

Edit: Comparison with a mountain bike is invalid as well. MTBs go slow, where the wind doesn't matter. As for sterring, you need to be able to crank the wheel around a lot at slow speed on an MTB. Try that on a road bike at speed and you'll crash.

haha...Is it true that flat bars are more comfortable and have better steering than drops? It would seem so if one were to use motorcycles as an example.
Not necessarily. Flats have one hand position, and tend to concentrate pressure on the wrists. Many people's hands go to sleep (I'm one) on flat bars. Drops have many different hand positions, so like squirming around in a chair, one can find a new position when your current one becomes fatiguing.
That said, I don't get along well with drop bars. Nothing wrong with them, they just don't work for me. I broke my neck, and looking up from the heads down position quickly becomes uncomfortable. There are a couple of other choices, one is a mustache bar (http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/images/catpics/16-027.jpg), which looks cool and old school and is quite popular with some commuters. There are also cruiser bars (http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/images/catpics/16-122.jpg), looked down on by some because they are kinda dorky, but my god they are comfortable, and what I ride on my town bike. And lastly flat bars are not all made flat. I'm trying this one (http://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=6) on my next frame.
Oh yeah, grips can make a huge difference in comfort. Ergon grips (http://www.ergon-bike.com/) being my personal favorite. They cost 3 times what standard grips cost and are ten times better. The way they flair out allows you to move some of the pressure from your wrist to your palm, which amounts to a big change on how any bar feels.

--A

Pretty unlikely anyone would steal your rack. They'd have to undo 4 bolts and that would take too long to risk it for just a rack. If you get a lightweight cable to secure your seat (it has a loop at each end - you put it through the seat rail, then through itself, then place the free end loop around one arm of your U-lock) it would probably be long enough to also go through your rack adding a little protection.

How are drops at hopping curbs? I know I have to hop quite a few curbs on my commute. Hasn't been a problem on my flat bar but never tried with drops before.

I actually prefer drops bunny hopping, you can get a good grip from the brake hoods.
--A

Bunny hopping on 700 c road wheels....not recommended

You know I was considering the same two bikes almost a month ago. The problem sounds the same I wanted drops because they are fast and I thought I could expnad my biking wiht somthing more fun than a utility bike. The sirrus was okay and some think the uprightness is good for the city. But the sequoia was smooth to ride. think butter.

But I'm a [I]premed[I] meaning I am even farther away from earning the big bucks and I haven't even been accepted to a school yet. So I did somthing a lot of people on the forum reccomended- used. I used craigs list to find a bike my size, a trek 520, and picked it up for $200. The bike is 90s but the frame is solid and would have loved to replace the parts on a new beginner bike anyways, so in a few years I will do that to this one. the bike is just what I wanted solid and fast. I would do some checking out on craigs's list yourself. Or hey if the shop you are working at sells bikes wait for that one.

Where do you live with a mile long 20% grade? Tahoe? That's 1000 feet of elevation gain. I don't know of any med/nursing schools near Tahoe.

Dang it...you got me on the Big Boi thing. And here I thought I was delivering a semi deserved scolding for imitating irritating little pre-fab "punk" Ms. Lavigne. Oh well.

You'll not find many folks here who will advocate flats over drops. A few, but not many. By the by, drop bars do not have to be set up "aggressively" either. Many shops only sell racing bikes, or something similar to one in their "road bike" lineup...the Allez is a great bike, but is also a little more racey. Drops can still be geometrically comfortable (remember, it is primarily geometry that influences comfort) by placing the ramps and hoods level with the saddle. Incidentally about where the flats on that Sirrus would be. Then, if you need to crouch out of the wind, the drops themselves provide an ergonomically correct way to do so. Ever try to hide from the wind with a flat bar...elbows all splayed out?

Bunny hops not highly recommended on most 700c road tires, drops or flats. Either type of bar will enable that particular trick though. Anyhow, if you are riding on the road like a proper cyclist, how many curbs could you be hopping anyway?

Where do you live with a mile long 20% grade? Tahoe? That's 1000 feet of elevation gain. I don't know of any med/nursing schools near Tahoe.

CSUH nursing school in the bay area. It's almost a 20% grade. 16-18% if I remember correctly for the first 1000, then levels out just a bit and steepens again all the way to the top. Hard stuff, seems like 200% grade especially on that heavy MTB :D


Dang it...you got me on the Big Boi thing. And here I thought I was delivering a semi deserved scolding for imitating irritating little pre-fab "punk" Ms. Lavigne. Oh well.

haha I hate Avril Lavigne! Who the hell listens to her anyway? As a matter of fact, she's probably the one that imitated me or Big Boi for that matter. I had this name since fall of 2001 on my e-mails, screen names, etc. so it would be easier to remember. Her "Let Go" album didn't come out until 2002.

Anyway, I might have to hop 1-3 curbs once I get on campus but I can always bike my lazy ass up the driveway! I've looked on criagslist and found a red sirrus with white drops for $300 but it was sold!!! Right size, right color, and everything. Is there a good bike out there with the Sirrus' price range, durablility, and great reviews with geometrically comfortable drops? It doesn't have to be the Specialized brand. I just want a bike that has been tried and true. Thanks for all your help so far. I've learned a lot.

Specialized Sequoia is more "relaxed". As is the Trek Pilot. The Fuji Newest is also a good option.

And to avoid any confusion, when I mentioned the drops being "geometrically comfortable", I was actually referring to bike geometry, not geometry of the bar itself. I.e. are the ramps and hoods level with the saddle(comfortable), or 4 inches below (not as comfortable but very aggressive.)

Bars come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and features, with twice as many opinions as there are options.

If the gearing on a bike is not to your liking...rear cassettes run from $20 to $80, and can dramatically alter a bike. On my bike I built a custom cassette, 8 speed 13-30 to go with my 30-42-52 crank. That pretty much covers me from the steepest hills to most descents. (I spin out on a couple of REALLY steep dives, but that's no big deal.)

It sounds like your really want a cyclocross or touring bike. Drop bars positioned near the height (not well below as most racing bikes are configured) of your seat provide a comfortable hand position and allow you to lower your body for better aerodynamics in head winds or faster rides. Canti brakes are sufficient to stop you quickly, though if you are really concerned disc brakes are available on a few cyclocross type bikes. Get one of these with a triple crankset and you should have sufficient gearing for your 18% hill (if your inshape). Also these types of bikes should be able to accomadate fenders, fat tires and a rack.

With decent sized tires you definately can hop curbs. 29er (29") MTBs use 700c wheels with fat tires for technical off-road riding, a few curbs are nothing. I've been hopping curbs with 28mm tires, and I'm 220lbs.

Fenders are very nice when ever it rains. Adding a rack and carrying your books on the bike is also an excellent idea. You take the pannier to carry your books into class and getting the weight off of your back will greatly improve the comfort.

I like the Surly Crosscheck and Jamis Aurora, but the REI bike mentioned above is nice. A use Trek 520 or Fuji Touring are also good suggestions. Make sure your accessories include a good U-lock and cable and make sure you know how to use it. The vast majority of bikes stolen are unlocked and most others are locked with lowend cable locks.

Craig

Thanks guys. I decided to build my bike from scratch using a Surly Cross-Check frame. Gearing with 52-42-30 in front and 9 speed 11-34t in back. Does that seem good enough for my 18% 1 mile climb?

In my limited experience 52-42 are too close, and 30 not necessarily low enough (but I only go to 28 in the back; maybe 30 is great w/ 34). I love the 39 middle ring I replaced the stock 42 with, and am actually about to swap out the 52 for a 50.

Thanks guys. I decided to build my bike from scratch using a Surly Cross-Check frame. Gearing with 52-42-30 in front and 9 speed 11-34t in back. Does that seem good enough for my 18% 1 mile climb?
Congratulations, that sounds like a great bike. The 30x34 gear should be sufficient for nearly any paved road but if you are concerned you could use something like Nashbar Treking crank 48-38-28 http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1034&brand=&sku=11462&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=
for a little lower gear.
Or this one http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1031&brand=&sku=17945&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename= with 48-36-26.
And ofcourse for crazy low gears you can use an MTB crank with 44-32-22 rings.
Really I don't think a lower gear is necessary but just wanted to let you know it was available.
I like your though as a Cross Check is one of my favorite frames.
Craig

Thanks, CBBaron. Yeah, I heard a lot of rave reviews about the Cross-Check and how it's one of the most versatile frames on the market. And for $360 for the frame and fork, it can't be beat! It sure is costing me a fortune though, probably around $1300 with Avid Shorty 6 brakes, Ultegra with brifters, Deore XT, Ritchey, and Mavic Pro components. The problem with ultra-low gearing is my rear derailleur cannot handle the teeth differences and I'm worried about spinning out when going downhill which I enjoy the most :)

The only problem about my build is the handlebar. I bought a Ritchey Adjustable Pro Stem for $20 so I need a 25.4mm road bar. Anybody tried the 25.4mm Nitto Classic bar? Hopefully, snobby roadies won't laugh at me for having an ATB stem :p Other than that, building a bike from scratch is a good learning experience for me. Thanks for all the helpful info!

mtb and road bars have a different diameter so be careful when trying to mix and match stems and bars...

other than that your doing fantastic! i also have a crosscheck and couldn't think of a better commuter.

Hello,

I have a Cannondale H700 1996/1997 Aluminium frame hybrid bike.
I can't recommend a Cannondale similar to mine UNLESS:
1) bike very short distances ( < five miles )
2) go through heavy heavy traffic and need that response from the bike.
3) do bike games ( foot-down or something )
4) love stiff bikes. and don't mind the road noise and vibration.
4) have a very good strong back . Otherwise suffer from the harsh ride.

this is my own humble opinion. Of course there are others who would
swear by the Cannondale bikes. And others who don't care much.
But if you are commuting some distances and want a comfortable
ride, I would not recommend the crazy stiff cannondale bikes.

hey thanks for all your info guys. while i'm waiting for the rest of my cross-check parts, i'm commuting with this bike

http://i9.tinypic.com/34hdm3l.jpg

the funny part is the lowest gear is a 30 in front and 25 in back. Even with that gearing I powered up the 18% grade hill for 0.85 miles 7 mins without too much effort.

hey guys, after 2 months of commuting to school with my specialized allez, I think i've been getting stronger. before, the hill (which is more like a mountain) has always frightened me with a steep slope (the sign on the bottom says 18% grade) for 0.85 miles. I no longer have to use the lowest gear at 32.4 gear inches. Instead, the past 2 weeks I've been increasing my gears so that today I went up at 42.63 gear inches without any problems. Climbed the hill in around 5 mins with my school textbooks in my backpack. My goal is to eventually be strong enough to wean myself from the granny gear. But my question is, if my next bike is without a granny gear, what is the advantage of a double chainring besides the minimal weight loss? Isn't it better to have a granny gear on those lazy commuting days?