Bicycle Mechanics - Restoring an old Raliegh bike

I posted this in the road cycling forum but it was recommended to me that I post it here.

This is a copy of the post :

So you probably get this sort of thing a lot, and you probably say "just buy a new one, you'll be better off". But I'm in the mood for attempting to do up this old bike so was wondering if you could help me start off - what to look for/what not to get etc.

Here's some pics :

Pic 1 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010221.jpg)

Pic 2 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010220.jpg)

Pic 3 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010219.jpg)

Pic 4 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010218.jpg)


Any pointers at all will be of help,


cheers,


Madhouse

Dont loose any parts esp for bottom bracket. Its a 26 tpi thread non standard. You can buy them but best to keep the originals. You will need a derailer hanger to use modern derailers or learn how to rebuild the old one. I say its a very worthwhile porject though. Youll love it and hate it all at the same time and learn more than you even think possible.

Just incase something bad happens and you need to replace your bottom bracket

threadless bottom bracket (http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=802354078470&d=single&c=Components&sc=Bottom%20Brackets&tc=Cartridge/Taper%20Spindle&item_id=YS-BB99368124)

can you post a closer picture of the LH crankarm? from afar, something looks very wrong here...

When I look at that bike, I think "Fixed gear conversion"

Well, I actually think that when I look at just about any bike...

can you post a closer picture of the LH crankarm? from afar, something looks very wrong here...


If my assumption is correct its correct and that is a "2 peice crank"
Crank shaft is permently fixxed to one crank arm (left in this case) and standard nut holing the drive side on.

That or he has miss matched crank arms on it. Maybe a early steel coterless left crank with more modern aluminum on the other side.

I to want to see the close up on that. Its a much newer bike than my granprix mines 73 im gona guess thats early 80s do to the more modern down tube shifters that fasten ither through the frame via all thread bolt or has the arbors for the DT shifters welded to the frame. My gran prix is old clamp on for dt shifters.

I posted this in the road cycling forum but it was recommended to me that I post it here.

This is a copy of the post :

So you probably get this sort of thing a lot, and you probably say "just buy a new one, you'll be better off". But I'm in the mood for attempting to do up this old bike so was wondering if you could help me start off - what to look for/what not to get etc.

Here's some pics :

Pic 1 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010221.jpg)

Pic 2 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010220.jpg)

Pic 3 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010219.jpg)

Pic 4 (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/P1010218.jpg)


Any pointers at all will be of help,


cheers,


Madhouse

Looks like it has been sitting for a while....

You should strip it down, clean and lube all the parts, and see what is usable and what isn't, forget the tires, tubes, brake pads, cables, cable housings, bar tape and chain, those should all be replaced. If you find you have a whole bunch of stuff that needs replacing, then put the usable parts in a bin, and go looking for another yard sale special.

Looking at all of the dirt and rust on everything, I'd make sure the frame and fork are sound before doing anything more. Check that there is no serious internal rust. Is the paint just chipped or are their bubbles and blisters that indicate the damage is from the inside?

Is this what you're looking for? (http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l244/Spinmaster7/2.jpg)

It's just chipped I think. The frame seems okay too...Any tips on removing old stickers off it quickly?

Lighter fliud or Glu-B-Gone should do it

That will be a fun project. Just be sure about the fork. That fork crown design was not always the strongest. After its clean look closely to see if the paint is wrinkled or peeling arund the crown.

It's just chipped I think. The frame seems okay too...Any tips on removing old stickers off it quickly?

Those stickers as you call them are decals that were orriginally best i can tell on my 73 actually put on while the paint was still tacky in the factory. In other words to get the "stickers" off you need to strip the bike. Im guessing your goign to do this any ways so gets some 220 da paper and simply strip the entire bike. The 220 grit paper will also get rid of any pitting. Ill tell you right now raleigh used carbon steel in their tubes. What you will find under that paint is gray splotches dont bother trying to get rid of them it wont hapen. Those gray splotches is simply how carbon steels oxidize (unless it rusts and then when you clean off the rust youl have real dark gray to black splotches)

You got a great project bike there enjoy the experiance is all i got to say.

Things you will need new crank set if bottom bracket is in good shape get a new crank set to fit that bottom bracket.
If not you will need to get 26 tpi cups or a threadless bottom bracket (dont know if theres any realy good threadless bottom brackets only seen the one in previous link).

Your dt shifters should be fine they dont screw up ever realy. Only way ive ever seen the need to replace DT shifters is if one snaps. You bike seems to be a early to mid 80s model. I dont think they changed the threading till later on. Still need to check that out on your own Hey not gona tell you every thing let you do some of the research on some stuff like thread tpi count on BB and forks.

You will need a derailer hanger for the rear derailer to use modern derailers that fasten directly to the frame. Cheap to get and most local bike shops will likly have them.

Lighter fliud or Glu-B-Gone should do it

Heh good luck on that with a raleigh. High probability its done like mine. The stickers are applied while the paint is tacky on mine its realy obvious as i managed t get about have a sticker off mine and the paint has the stikers shape in it. To get em off the bike needs stripped with ither chemical stripper like orange citrus stripper (my personal fav) or mechnical stripping aka sanding it all down to bare metal or nearly so. If the paint is mostly good id sand it down by hand feathering the paint in to the bare metal and sand off the stickers. If mostly bad chemical stripp then use 220 grit paper to sand the entire frame lightly. Could also get the frame beed blasted Not sand blasted it heats the metal to much. Other meathods would be pretty expensive but would almost polish the frame. Such as slurry blasting. Ultra fine sand and water mix.

I have three Raleighs so I'm gonna take a few guesses here. Regarding the bottom bracket, based on the appearance of that bike, it looks like a later, Raleigh USA production which means the bottom bracket is standard thread. That deraileur looks like a budget priced, Shimano SIS unit, does the bike have indexed shifters? Based on the levers, it looks possible. The alloy rims, suicide brake levers, older style brake pads combined with the SIS deraileur and a lugged frame, IMHO this is a 87-90 Raleigh. The downtube shifters means this was a higher model than the old 'Record'. But Raleigh was into the aluminum 'Technium' series at that time for their high end bikes. I have a 86 Technium and a 87 Record. Actually, the less expensive Record has a very nice, comfortable, smoother ride than the Technium. I really like it and I think you'll find that frame rides very nice.
If you want to communicate with a Raleigh expert, try cudak888. He is usually found on the Classic and Vintage forum. He is the person who started the 'Retro Raleigh' website. I don't think you'll find your bike on Retro Raleighs as it is too new.
By the way, based on the pictures, it does look like you have two different cranks. Also, the previous advice about buying a donor bike at a yard sale is excellent. I'm doing the same for a mountain bike build. It is definitely cheaper to buy a donor bike or bikes than individual parts. Go figure! Best of luck with your project. (Dang I wish my 87 Record frame had those downtube shifters like yours so I could go SIS on the downtube.)

I keep looking at the rims on your bike. The rear rim looks like the Araya RS-430's on my 93 Fuji. Those are nice rims, with a more aero look than the typical mid 80's 700c rims. But the front rim looks different, maybe it's just an illusion in the picture.

I keep looking at the rims on your bike. The rear rim looks like the Araya RS-430's on my 93 Fuji. Those are nice rims, with a more aero look than the typical mid 80's 700c rims. But the front rim looks different, maybe it's just an illusion in the picture.

I keep looking at the rims on your bike. The rear rim looks like the Araya RS-430's on my 93 Fuji. Those are nice rims, with a more aero look than the typical mid 80's 700c rims. But the front rim looks different, maybe it's just an illusion in the picture.

Well datign raleighs (properlyy called the raleigh) can be realy easy. Mine on one of the front lugs is stamped with the date in my case 73

If i recall and ill need to go out and look is on the right hand side of the lower front lug.
Also i think your wrong about it being a usa made bike the head stock plate i think raleigh quit useing that on the us made bikes.

Okay, so the first thing I did was remove the saddle and the wheels. Got rid of the tires, they were in a pretty awful condition so it had to be done. Got rid of the brake pads too as they needed changing by the look of things. So the chain is still on - I think I need a special tool to remove it?

By the way, I'm a complete beginner here, total newbie so to say. Thanks for all the comments/help so far, much appreciated!

Dont loose any parts esp for bottom bracket. Its a 26 tpi thread non standard. You can buy them but best to keep the originals. You will need a derailer hanger to use modern derailers or learn how to rebuild the old one. I say its a very worthwhile porject though. Youll love it and hate it all at the same time and learn more than you even think possible.

The 26 TPI bottom brackets and headsets were only on the Nottingham Raleighs and perhaps a few made by Raleigh-owned factories in Commonwealth countries.

That looks like a low-end Japanese model from the early/mid 1980s. Threading will be standard English/ISO, nothing "Raleigh" about it but the decals.

Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/japan" Brown

+--------------------------------------+
| The proper facial expression for a |
| Cyclist is a friendly smile |
+--------------------------------------+

What's my next step after removing the wheels?

What's my next step after removing the wheels?


Well youll want to upgrade the crank at the very least. So i would pull those off now and check the bottom bracket out get any needed mesurements etc for the crank upgrade.

The derailers are old and were low end even when the bike was made. Pull those as well.

Once you have the crank arms off get some pics of the spindle on each side good close ups. Take some pics of front and rear breaks as well.

Also id go ahead and remove the cables I nearly got hit by a car do to old break cables once years ago when one snapped.

Cables are the most important part related to safty on a bike as per pars of a bike imo.

You know walking someone through a rebuild/retrofit via pics could be intresting :)

Excellent nova, thanks for that. Getting late here so I'll get to it tomorrow morning and get some pics up, going to need all the help I can get to be honest - but it'll be interesting anyways.

I'm currently on the look-out for some cheap enough accessories now... Website (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com) ...like brake pads/cables - what would you recommend from there?

Regards

well as per break pads unless your in to racing etc realy any that will fit properly will work. Depending on if you ride in the rain or wet conditions or not you might want to get some that are recomended for wet conditions.

As for crank youll want somethgn decent that fits. Almost sertin your gona have a sqaure taper spindle.

Not having much luck finding stuff on the site you linked

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1034&brand=&sku=15120&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=
Would be fine for your first build.

For tires if your rims are decent and 700c i just dont think you can go wrong with any of the vittoria line.Good quality tire lowish price point.

going to need this for your rear derailer
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=83&subcategory=1038&brand=&sku=7527&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

On cables youll want something stainless and not old style steel they last longer and are less prone to streching. All cables streach but stainless dont do so as much.

Ill post more once i see some pics of the various parts in questions

Well datign raleighs (properlyy called the raleigh) can be realy easy. Mine on one of the front lugs is stamped with the date in my case 73

If i recall and ill need to go out and look is on the right hand side of the lower front lug.
Also i think your wrong about it being a usa made bike the head stock plate i think raleigh quit useing that on the us made bikes.
Well, you are correct that your 73 and my 72 are called 'The Raleigh', but by the mid 80's, the head badge just says Raleigh. Both my 86 and 87 have head badges, I attached a picture of the Technium headbadge. Sorry, no picture of the 87, but I can take one and PM you (nova) if you would like to see what it looked like. My 72 does not have a number on the front lug. The reason may be it was made in Ireland, not in Nottingham, England. As for the made in the USA, I need to clarify, I knew Madhouse 7's bike was not manufactured in the USA, what I meant was it looks like it was marketed by Raleigh USA since Raleigh UK was gone by the late 80s. Perhaps I should have stated that up front.
I went back and counted the number of gears on the freewheel, Am I correct, this is a 5-speed rear with a SIS compatible deraileur and indexed shifter? If that's correct and this equipment was not replaced somewhere along the way, then my late 80's estimate is not correct. As always, Sheldon is correct.

EDIT: I checked Retro Raleigh's history section. Madhouse 7's Raleigh was most likely marketed by Raleigh USA since that firm was created in 1982.

Well, you are correct that your 73 and my 72 are called 'The Raleigh', but by the mid 80's, the head badge just says Raleigh. Both my 86 and 87 have head badges, I attached a picture of the Technium headbadge. Sorry, no picture of the 87, but I can take one and PM you (nova) if you would like to see what it looked like. My 72 does not have a number on the front lug. The reason may be it was made in Ireland, not in Nottingham, England. As for the made in the USA, I need to clarify, I knew Madhouse 7's bike was not manufactured in the USA, what I meant was it looks like it was marketed by Raleigh USA since Raleigh UK was gone by the late 80s. Perhaps I should have stated that up front.
I went back and counted the number of gears on the freewheel, Am I correct, this is a 5-speed rear with a SIS compatible deraileur and indexed shifter? If that's correct and this equipment was not replaced somewhere along the way, then my late 80's estimate is not correct. As always, Sheldon is correct.

EDIT: I checked Retro Raleigh's history section. Madhouse 7's Raleigh was most likely marketed by Raleigh USA since that firm was created in 1982.


Intrestng i thought the usa raleighs started in mid 80s oh well. Hey have you ever went through the raleigh sites history link? If not go there some time and read about all the things they did through history. They have a realy cool 3 wheeled car. Heh pretty cool looking to.

Is there a proper way of removing the brake cabling?

Is there a proper way of removing the brake cabling?

Yeah, cut or pull off the cable end, then on the brake caliper is a bolt that holds the cable, loosen (do not remove the bolt), until you can remove the cable. Pull the cable all the way back through the lever. Keep the pieces of housing, note the type of end on the cable where it fits the lever. Cut off about 10cm of the cable nearest the lever, so you can match the end type when you install new cable.

The reason why you keep the housing pieces, is so you can measure new housing against them, which is much easier then trying to figure out how long to make each piece.

One trick, if you have a digital camera, take pictures of stuff as you disassemble, then you can refer back to your photos as you reassemble.

Generally numbers stamped into lugs indicate not the year of manufacture but the angle of these lugs relative to head or seat tubes. A "72" or "73" would not signify the years 1972-73 but 72 or 73 degrees.

I posted this in the road cycling forum but it was recommended to me that I post it here.

This is a copy of the post :

So you probably get this sort of thing a lot, and you probably say "just buy a new one, you'll be better off". But I'm in the mood for attempting to do up this old bike so was wondering if you could help me start off - what to look for/what not to get etc.
Any pointers at all will be of help,
cheers,
Madhouse

Here's a link to my rebuild:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=50819&highlight=digger+raleigh

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=34228&highlight=raleigh

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=26466&highlight=raleigh

Generally numbers stamped into lugs indicate not the year of manufacture but the angle of these lugs relative to head or seat tubes. A "72" or "73" would not signify the years 1972-73 but 72 or 73 degrees.

Dont think that the case this time. Theres no possible way that its related to tube angle. Mine is on the upper lug for the head tube right hand side of the part of the lug for the head tube.

That angles no where near 73 degrees. Its nearly a right angle on that tube

Examine some diagrams of bicycle frames that have information on related lug angles. Is it a coincidence most are in the range 71-73 degrees?

Believing the stamped numbers indicate a date is a common mistake.

Examine some diagrams of bicycle frames that have information on related lug angles. Is it a coincidence most are in the range 71-73 degrees?

Believing the stamped numbers indicate a date is a common mistake.

Well it would realy be odd if it did not in this case. First its the only lug on the bike with a stamp. And the fact a friend has nearly the same exact bike but his is a 75. My raliegh has had 2 owners including me the owner remembers when and even where he bought it. My friends bike has had 1 owner him and has the same frame lug marked 75.

If it was lug angle id expect them to also show up on the lugs for the seat tube and bb shell.

Examine some diagrams of bicycle frames that have information on related lug angles. Is it a coincidence most are in the range 71-73 degrees?

Believing the stamped numbers indicate a date is a common mistake. If it turned out that it wasnt the date how would i look up the date?