General Cycling Discussion - Disc brakes or not?

Want to buy a Sirrus Sport with Disc brakes but can't tell if the weight of the Avid BB-5 mechanical disc is more then the regular forged 6061 linear pull, (how much weight i don't know 1 lbs maybe?)

The sales guy tells me that if my wheels are not true it wont matter for the disc brakes? While the regular linear pull brakes will rub against the side wheel making a noise thus going to the LBS to get your wheels trued, is this correct? Going to LBS is a headache for me.

If anyone has opinions on disc brake or regular brakes please comment on the pros and cons.

In my situation price is equal to on regular brakes vs disc brakes on the bike. So my only care is disc brakes look cool other then that i can't choose which type of bike with brakes discs or not. Only other bad thing i hear is going up hills maybe a problem, tried riding it felt a little slugish tried riding a elite without discs brakes felt almost the same. Until i ride longer will it be a mistake to buy a bike with disc brakes even though i will never ride in winter or rain ever? Its got to be 90 degress and dry for my riding experience.

Yes, disc brakes will make the bike a little bit heavier - perhaps a pound if you're talking both wheels. It's not just the disc calipers, it's the different hub and rotor. Extra weight will affect your hill climbing. Front wheel will need to be dished, resulting in the left side spokes being more suseptable to breaking under hard braking - and the opposite is true for the rear: less/no dish means the drive side spokes won't be as vulnerable.

OTOH, braking is better, especially in rain. Pads last longer. IMHO, feel is less rubbery and more substantial. The rotor is unaffected by rim trueness, although you will still want your rims running as straight as practicable. If you've ever worn out a rim due to braking - and I have - that won't happen with discs. And if you manage to wear out a rotor, replacing it doesn't mean a wheel rebuild; it means undoing 6 screws.

Both types work great and each has it's own advantages. Overall, I find my mech disc breaks require more tuning and adjustment to keep 'em spot on, but regular brakes go through pads sooner and don't assure me of the same stopping power in virtually every circumstance. In either case you should learn to do your own rudimentary maintenance to keep things rolling smoothly and safely.

First, regardless of whether you have disc or "traditional" pad brakes, you have to have good brakes, and unfortunately you can get bad examples of each. A bad disc brake is far worse than a good traditional brake, and poor traditional brake is far worse than a good disc brake.

Pretty much it's been said. You will have a weight penalty for disc brakes (figure in usually slightly heavier hubs, rotors and calipers) versus the simplicity of two brake arms on a rim. However, what you get (usually!) is better performance from discs in terms of stopping power and "feel" of the brake. Additionally wheels with disc brakes can run with no real ill effects with slightly warped rims. I'm not sure I buy into the dishing and its characteristics as I've never had one of my (homebuilt) wheels fail, whether it be disc or non-disc wheels. I concur that if you hate a disc pad dragging and are picky, disc brakes can be a bit fiddly to setup and require a bed in time to reach optimum performance. Don't forget that disc pads -though in the case of Avids you shouldn't have a problem, but then again I think the Avid 5's have different disc pads from the Avid BB7s -may be harder to come by if you have some crazy brand name disc brake, or more expensive. A local bike store is almost guaranteed to carry brake pads for regular pad brakes, but are less likely to carry disc pads in stock. Another point to consider is that for the same price point, if disc brakes are included it may be that they've skimped on the hubs or some other component to get discs on the bike. If you take the wheel on and off many times, you are more likely to have trouble with disc brakes as you can jar a disc pad loose. Traditional brakes (perhaps with the exception of cantilevers!) are usually simpler to setup -just my opinion -and are simpler in design and have less components.

Unless you're going down some pretty big hills/touring/going off road or a bit of a clydesdale, I don't see much of a need for disc brakes, particularly in dry conditions you mentioned. As long as you have decent wheel builds with decent rims, pads and traditional brakes, you should have more than enough braking. I think the guy who told you regular brakes can pull on one side is a bit a scare mongerer; yes they can if the rim is really out of true or if you don't have the brake adjusted properly -but then all components on a bike should be adjusted properly..... I think he was just trying to sell you the Sirrus. I wouldn't want to ride a badly out of true rim with disc brakes anyway.

By the way, I have both v-brakes on my recumbent and one mtb, and disc brakes on another mtb, dual pivot calipers on my road bike and road discs on my tourer. I much prefer discs (I have all Avid mechanicals on them). The best performance gain for my traditional brakes has been with replacing the stock pads with Koolstop salmons -no doubt about it.

In my situation price is equal to on regular brakes vs disc brakes on the bike.



Don't buy that. In order for price to be equal, the regular brake bike will have some higher components than the disc brake part. Disc brakes usually are about $100 more than regular brakes.

As other said, if any of the following apply, get the disc brakes:
-- ride, or may ride, frequently in the rain
-- you have steep or long downhills
-- your weight is 200+
-- you need faster stopping power because wait to brake at last moment
-- you have light wheels and want to extend their service life


Not mentioned yet as disadvantages of normal brakes
-- will generate wear on rim. Usually only a problem for performance wheels as it will slowly remove rim material. Performance wheel buyers don't care.
-- require more maintenance in replacing pads and adjusting settings.

When you don't want disc brakes,
-- if you brake apart your bike frequently for transport, i.e. take off wheels and put back on after get at destination.
-- if you are uncomfortable turning the adjustment wheel if rotors squeel.

Don't buy that. In order for price to be equal, the regular brake bike will have some higher components than the disc brake part. Disc brakes usually are about $100 more than regular brakes.

As other said, if any of the following apply, get the disc brakes:
-- ride, or may ride, frequently in the rain
-- you have steep or long downhills
-- your weight is 200+
-- you need faster stopping power because wait to brake at last moment
-- you have light wheels and want to extend their service life


Not mentioned yet as disadvantages of normal brakes
-- will generate wear on rim. Usually only a problem for performance wheels as it will slowly remove rim material. Performance wheel buyers don't care.
-- require more maintenance in replacing pads and adjusting settings.

When you don't want disc brakes,
-- if you brake apart your bike frequently for transport, i.e. take off wheels and put back on after get at destination.
-- if you are uncomfortable turning the adjustment wheel if rotors squeel.

This post answers your question.
I've had rim brakes and I currently have Avid mechanical disc brakes.
I got the disc brakes for the rasons mentioned above, but my new bike will likely have rim brakes because it is a commuter bike only and I rarely reach speeds over 20mph and don't need the added stopping power.

Disc brakes have better hook-up with less lever travel, even on mechanical discs. Just for that alone they are worth it.

BB7, if adjusted right, can be practically on a hair-trigger for braking. That's how mine is set, and I love it....I would not have it any other way.

The component are exactly the same for the bikes with pad brakes and discs. $800 for both bike types can't get price down for none disc brake bike so the disc brake bike is a good deal.

2006 sirrus sport does not have disc brakes. To get disc brakes, hydraulic, you need to go to the pro for $1,600.

If the components are exactly the same, then you are getting a $100 upgrade for free. Only down side is a tad more weight, but less than a water bottle.

2006 sirrus sport does not have disc brakes. To get disc brakes, hydraulic, you need to go to the pro for $1,600.

If the components are exactly the same, then you are getting a $100 upgrade for free. Only down side is a tad more weight, but less than a water bottle.

The Sport and Pro both come with discs except the pro has Juicy discs rather then the sports that i mentioned earlier.

I had another option which for the same money get the Scott Speedster GO Shimano group with Suntour cranks and narrower tires probably a fast bike. Better then Sirrus Sport maybe but tires maybe a tad narrower then i need. Lots of punctures for type of riding.

I have BB-5 discs on my full-suspension MTB and Ultegra brakes on my road bike. I do my own wrenching, so I am confident that each set of brakes is optimally adjusted. I have Kool-Stop salmons on my road bike. It rains a lot up here, and I stop a lot better with my discs than on my road bike in wet weather. In dry weather, they are about the same. All things being equal, I am biased towards discs. Someone who lives in drier areas may not have the same bias as I do.

If you ride in alot of rain and mud, then yes. If your wheels are always going out of true, then yes.

Otherwise, no.

So i finally bought the sirrus with avid mechanical brakes. Now i got to keep them clean and wash them with brake cleaner making sure no dirt or grease gets on them.
Also the brake pads when they weardown i will find out quickly that i have no brakes.
Most people discourage me from buying a disc brake bike, but i guess i got to try it and learn if it was a mistake.

Most sales guys tell me that disc brakes on high end bikes maybe the way in the future, lighter brakes calipers carbon design. I suppose some sales guys say its overkill but thats there opinion.

I guess i should be happy to get a bike at the MSRP of a sirrus with linear pull brakes to a disc brake sirrus. To all who commented thanks, now i need to ride it to see if its worthwhile or not.

If you ride in alot of rain and mud, then yes. If your wheels are always going out of true, then yes.

Otherwise, no.I'm one of the extreme few that can give you another reason for discs: overheating & melting brake-pads to the rim on downhills. I've petitioned all the local clubs to have their hill time-trials include a combined up AND down time. I'll sprint as hard as possible down hills to get maximum top-speeds. I'll wait to the last minute at the end of the straights and jam on my brakes at 100%. I'll corner at maximum speed and start sprinting 2/3rds of the way through to maximize speeds on the next straight... And yes, I have found the limits of traditional rim brakes when the pads melt...

Otherwise... if you don't encounter these problems, discs probably won't make much of a difference for you...

Unclear, which did you buy? disc brake bike or traditional brake bike?

I'll sprint as hard as possible down hills to get maximum top-speeds. I'll wait to the last minute at the end of the straights and jam on my brakes at 100%. I'll corner at maximum speed and start sprinting 2/3rds of the way through to maximize speeds on the next straight...

Although I don't take big hills as aggressively as it sounds you do, I have been known to pedal at 50 mph, and I like the fact that discs let me carry my speed much closer to the turns than rim brakes would let me. The improved braking has another benefit, even if you're not aggressive at all - increased brake power means you don't have to use as much pressure squeezing the levers, which means you don't get hand cramps on long steep downhills.

I am confident that you will not regret getting a bike with Avid BB-5 brakes. These enjoy a well-deserved reputation as being among the most robust, reliable and easy to adjust disc brake systems. You will also find that the rotors are largely self-cleaning, whereas rims are not. I have to scrub the rims on my road bike to maintain optimum braking performance far more often than I have to clean the BB-5 rotors on my MTB.

Unclear, which did you buy? disc brake bike or traditional brake bike?

Bought Sirrus with mechanical Disc Brakes.

Most other people say Hayes discs are better then Avid ones?

So i finally bought the sirrus with avid mechanical brakes. Now i got to keep them clean and wash them with brake cleaner making sure no dirt or grease gets on them.
Also the brake pads when they weardown i will find out quickly that i have no brakes.


In SF you'll probably get about 12 months on a set of brake pads. Check out www.sram.com/_medai/techdocs for the manual on the brakes giving the details of how to adjust them. Or just take into LBS to get adjusted.
No warning of impending brake failure. Not with discs. With rims they'll just go, but discs will start squelling, just like car brakes.


What's this keep clean, wash with brake cleaner?? They are not high maintance brakes. Dirt and stuff will come off when you apply the brakes. Now grease,that would require a cleaner, but if you're not dropping grease everywhere, just ride, ride, ride.

In SF you'll probably get about 12 months on a set of brake pads. Check out www.sram.com/_medai/techdocs for the manual on the brakes giving the details of how to adjust them. Or just take into LBS to get adjusted.
No warning of impending brake failure. Not with discs. With rims they'll just go, but discs will start squelling, just like car brakes.


What's this keep clean, wash with brake cleaner?? They are not high maintance brakes. Dirt and stuff will come off when you apply the brakes. Now grease,that would require a cleaner, but if you're not dropping grease everywhere, just ride, ride, ride.

Keeping it clean was the sales guy, saying you don't want dirt or a guess wet chunks of leaves, or salt deposits on the pads getting stuck or jamming up.

To translate what he meant is if keep it clean man.
If i ride in the autumn with leaves on the ground with it being wet some debris may get stuck in between the disc pad and rotor. Winter time the salt in the street and just slush can leave white residue from the beer byproduct they leave mixed in with the salt the city sprays on the streets.

I-brake from Sram look good. Now i got to get a small gas trimmer engine put on my bike to go faster, electric bikes are outlawed in my area. Got enough stopping power for it to work.

Now i got to keep them clean and wash them with brake cleaner making sure no dirt or grease gets on them.

<cough>OVERKILL<cough>

Seriously, I have commuted on my disc-brake-equipped bike for a year and a half, in EVERY kind of weather (well, ok, no hail)... but rain sleet ice slush salt mud leaves etc etc etc.

I have NEVER washed my disc brakes. I suppose they've gotten rinsed the handful of times I've hosed off the bike.

They still stop perfectly.

If you get greasy fingerprints on 'em, ok, wash 'em with brake cleaner. Grease takes a while to wear off the pads since it's a lubricant it reduces the effectiveness. Excessive grease could ruin the pads.

But how often do you go out and clean the brakes on your car? Never... The mechanic only does it when he services 'em because he gets his greasy fingers all over 'em (and of course to remove brake dust which can be hazardous).

If you get a piece of gravel caught between the pad and the rotor, it can cause poor wear patterns... on the other hand, bike disc rotors have such large vent holes I can't imagine anything being able to get stuck in there and stay.

Disc brakes or not?
Disc brakes.

For touring and/or maintenance ease (who wants to get stranded) I prefer mechanical Avid BB-7 disc brakes. I have never needed more braking power, and have even gone to the Aztec brake rotors to increase brake modulation, and control on my recumbent Catrike.

IMO the benefits outweigh ever so slight weight disadvantage. I would put the difference at much less than a pound if that..

I've seen a lot of refinement in disk brakes over the last ten years. I don't think I could go back now that I've took the plunge...

Pictures from Taipei Bike industry trade show, include a White Colnago Road bike with discs.
as well as others with the clearances for wider Cyclocross tires
that are already showing up for commuters, at a more modest price.

It's said, Bike making companies are leaning on UCI to make Disc Road bikes Legit,
like they finally did for cyclocross..

I went straight from cantilever brakes to Disc brakes and thought they were the greatest thing ever. For 8-years, I used only disc brakes on my mountain bikes (two hydro, one mechanical). I picked up a used Mountain bike with V brakes, but with Disc posts, and fully intended on replacing them with Disc brakes. Never having used V brakes at the time, I was really surprised by how well they worked. I race/ride Mountain, cross and road and was feeling fairly overwhelmed with all the maintenance I had to do on three different kinds of bike during times when I felt I should have been out riding. At least for me, disc brakes were by far the most maintenance intensive part on any of my bikes, and because the V-brakes worked so well I kept them. I don’t deny that there are advantages to running disc brakes but the cost of those advantages is often not mentioned:
1. Your wheels don’t have to be as true. That is correct, but you don’t want let your wheels get too warped or eventually they will fail and you’ll land on your face. Running disc brakes to avoid having to true your wheels is like putting electrical tape over the check engine light. Even if don’t have to true your wheels as often, the disc rotors go out of true just as often and start rubbing, which could also mean a trip to the bicycle shop.
2. Disc brakes are better in wet conditions. Disc rotors get wet in the rain too. Although rim brakes will lose a little more power when wet, they don’t squeal nearly as much as a wet set of BB5s. Oh, and for the love of god, don’t touch the rotor, a little body-oil from your fingers or a drip of chain lube on your rotor and you’ll be squealing all over the place. Often, you can get rid of the squeal with a cloth covered in alcohol, but it isn’t 100%. On the one in a hundred rides when I get into mud that is deep enough to cover the brake track of my wheels, however, I do miss my disc brakes.
3. You can make up for the extra weight of Disc Brakes by running lighter wheels. Are you going to go drop $500 + on a really light wheel set? If not, mechanical Disc brakes are heavier by about 250g.
4. Disc brakes have shorter leaver travel. If you keep your wheels true, you can make the leaver travel as short or as long as you want with a V-brake. If your wheels aren’t perfectly true, you can add travel to widen the brake-arms so they won’t rub. When the disc rotor goes out of true, you don’t have that option.
5. Disc brakes are more powerful. Meh, I can lock up the wheels with one finger with V-brakes… Maybe two if it’s wet.
I don’t deny that for the absolute best braking, discs are the way to go. A good set of linear pull brakes, however, aren’t as far behind as they are often made out to be, and getting from 30mph to 0 fastest will have more to do with the tires than the brakes. If you would be bothered more by additional and more difficult maintenance than by slightly lower braking quality, go with the V-brakes.

As long as you're not overweight, don't have to climb great hills, and you don't have to ride on wet roads, then you don't need disc brakes.

Dics brakes are really for overweight, hill-climbing cyclists, who ride their bikes during the monsoon season...

Dics brakes are really for overweight, hill-climbing cyclists, who ride their bikes during the monsoon season...

Loves the BB'7's on 1.5 of my bikes.

Isn't this a six year-old thread?

Time flies.............

After reading this http://bit.ly/Anq4Zn , and even though the author admits to flawed setup, I don't think I'd ever go disk.

The "more power" argument is moot. With conventional brakes, quality pads, and tires, anybody can lock up on any descent.

It's ALLIIIIIVE!!!

Leave it to a noob to search like we always say to do. ;)

Crazy how much has changed since 2006 for bike disc brakes, too. Used to be just MTBs, some hybrids, and a few rogue cyclocross bikes; now we're looking at full carbon road bikes with discs.

Discs are going to take over the bicycling world. They'll be mechanical and will move both pads, though; unlike today's offerings. Calipers, Cantis, and V-Brakes will only be found on dept store bikes. Colnago figures a 200 gram (6 ounces) penalty for discs.