Recumbent - What's Wrong With My Drivetrain?

Bike: Actionbent Road Runner.

So I had my bike's break-in tune up at the LBS that assembled it. Additionally, the chain was initially too short and was causing "lock ups", so they added some links to the chain.

The bike performed a lot better after the tune up although I noticed an odd vibration I hadn't noticed before. But the bike felt great otherwise and I kept riding. It seemed to happen a lot worse when in the lower granny gears. Come to find out the vibration was the chain slowly sawing grooves into the idler, eventually shredding it to the point that it caught on the chain and tore off the roller bearing. Had to get a new idler. Someone recommended a Burley but it wouldn't fit on the bike and I got a Greenspeed idler with the little teeth.

I took it back to the LBS and they placed the idler on it and sent me on my way. I did a 15 miler yesterday and still noticed a slight clackety noise while pedaling in the lower gears but visual inspection looked okay, no wear on the teeth, so I ride home, no problem.

Today I ride off and once I hit the first hill that I need the lower granny gears I have a major pile of spaghetti for a chain. Now it seems that the chain guide slipped forward and out of the zip tie that was holding it in place to the idler arm. I got it back home tonight and replaced the zip tie.

I have no problems with the bike until the tune up adjustments, then portions of the drivetrain start failing within 35 miles of the service. There has got to be some issue with the adjustment. I am not particularly knowledgable about bicycle drivetrains or adjustments and I need advice to diagnose the problem. I'd like to fix it myself if possible since turnaround time for service at the LBS in summer in a metropolis is nightmarish to say the least.

If anyone can please help!

Change LBS maybe?

Ricardo

I have fooled around with my drivetrain a bit. I think it's always a good idea to fiddle with simple stuff, you learn a lot, as long as there is no danger of total disaster! :eek: :) Anyway, my top chain tube slipped out of it's "noose" on the way to work, once. Solution: use multiple, stronger cable-ties. Behind the cable tie that attaches the tube, put another one or two cable ties very tightly around the chain tube (remember, heavy-duty cable ties.) That way, if the attaching cable tie loses any of it's grip, the other ties will stop the tube from moving forward. Inspect it once in a while, especially for the first few days after working on it.

I recommend getting a chain tool (only about $15) and learning to use it. (But practice a lot on other chains before you open the chain on your bent, it can be a frustrating experience if you get the chain apart, but you find you can't get it back together.) Eventually, you might experiment with chain length, especially if you find yourself adjusting your chain tubes. If you re-route them in any way, you might need to adjust chain length.

Don't be discouraged, after all, it's still only a bicycle. ;)

You may even want to put a dab of glue where the cable tie holds the chain tube, for extra security. I find that I have to pull the chain tube back in to position every 20km or so.

Make sure your chain is well lubricated.

Make sure the idler spins freely.

Inspect the chain for worn links, or links that were not put together properly. Also look for rust and anything else that compromises the flexibility of the chain.

Consider shortening the chain tubes (like, on the return side of the chain). Be aware though, that the chain tubes also protect your pants and leg for getting all greasy.

Thanks for the advice, folks. I'm gathering from what was posted that this may not be related to an adjustment issue - rather, this just seems to happen for time to time?

Thanks LBM, I'll try an extra heavy duty zip tie and some glue and see how it goes!