Commuting - rookie who knows nothing - commuting by cycle

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h00ligan
08-12-06, 09:39 PM
I went to the LBS and the owner pretty much said this is the bike for you - about the diamondback outlook.

I live in NYC and I have a very short (2.5 miles each way) commute, and want to use a bike to get around (35 minutes door to door via walk/subway - which is about what i could walk it in i reckon). The guy said he'd chuck in the rear rack for me.

The bike is tempting in that it is new - (the LBS will service it for the first xxxx miles or something) and that it's not expensive (in that NYC thievery is harsh :) )

So I've been reading the forums a lot and also thinking about the trek su100/200. I had a few thoughts...

First thought - i'm 6'5/185 - weight isn't a prob, but size could be
weather can get pretty ****ty here, even in unexpected fashion - so are disc brakes that much of an upgrade.
I can lock the bike in the back area of my apt complex at night (on the UES so crime isn't too rampant), but i would need to get some good saddlebags that can accomodate the laptop etc.. and be pulled off quickly...
fenders - do i need them? How much do they really stop from being kicked up from the filty street?
Lighting - ermm... yah, probably should get some of that ...

finally - chainguard is probably important to me so as not to shred pants on the commute...

thoughts?

I'll be honest here - I want a bike to get places - ride around the park and along the rivers on nice days (not really for sport though).. There are no offroad plans, nor do I intend on learning a great deal about repair (cough emergency repair only) - which is why it's nice that my LBS is about 1 short block from my house... So buying used, it's tough for me, knowing NOTHING about bikes and pretty much just wanting to get one that i can beat to hell, can take the dings and so forth, and facilitate my commute with accomodating luggage. The LBS doesn't sell Trek either.

Oh, i also looked online and found the workman bikes which seem pretty durable, but they can get pricey too when equipped. I'd rather be all in for 500-600 including necessary luggage.. but there's flexibility if the features are persuasive. I haven't found what to me seems to be a *good* commuting bike.

Heh.. thanks to the hardcore cyclists out there - you guys/gals have a ton of knowledge i've enjoyed sharing, but tomorrow is buy time i think so the thoughts are VERY welcome.

Cheers!


jyossarian
08-12-06, 10:11 PM
I'm on the UES too. What you'll need is a bike that fits you and that you like riding and is comfortable for what you want to do. Don't let the owner just look at you and recommend a bike. Try a few out. If he scoffs, walk. There's plenty of bike shops on the UES and the city. Try out a Specialized Sirrus, Kona Jake the Snake and others for comparison sake.

For commuting, you'll need the following for the bike: full fenders (Bike Planet Freddy Fenders are good), rear blinkie, front headlight, a bell, a mini-pump for on the road flats, patch kit, spare tubes and a wrench. You might also want a rack and waterproof panniers to carry clothes, laptop, lunch, tools, etc. A small seatbag is useful for carrying tools, tubes, etc. on recreational rides when you don't want to haul the panniers. The lights, bell and reflectors that come w/ your bike make it legal to operate in NYC.

For security, I recommend a chain and a U-lock. Use the U-lock to lock the one of the wheels to the frame and the chain to wrap around the frame, the other tire and whatever you lock up to. Don't lock up to a street sign cuz they'll just lift your bike over that. I use the Kryptonite Fuhgettaboutit and the mini-U. You'll probably want to lock your saddle to the rear triangle so have the LBS do it for you w/ some old bike chain and innertubes. Both are free from the LBS since they normally just throw them away.

Clothing varies by season, but cheap wicking shirts like Under Armor can be had at Modells. Bike shorts w/ chamois are useful for longer rides, but not necessary for your short commute. Rain gear is also useful so keep an eye out for goretex pants and jackets w/ pit zips to suck in cool air. A helmet is also recommended.

Lastly, for home I'd recommend having at least a multi-tool, a floor pump and some allen wrenches. They're always helpful for minor repairs.

Good luck and have fun!

[e] I forgot to mention brakes. Disc brakes are good, but good V-brakes are almost as good even in wet weather. Get some Kool Stop salmon brake pads and you'll stop fine in the wet.

Roody
08-12-06, 10:17 PM
First thought - i'm 6'5/185 - weight isn't a prob, but size could be
weather can get pretty ****ty here, even in unexpected fashion - so are disc brakes that much of an upgrade.
I can lock the bike in the back area of my apt complex at night (on the UES so crime isn't too rampant), but i would need to get some good saddlebags that can accomodate the laptop etc.. and be pulled off quickly...
fenders - do i need them? How much do they really stop from being kicked up from the filty street?
Lighting - ermm... yah, probably should get some of that ...
Dang...you sure cover a lot of territory! It's hard to know what you're really asking.

As to which bike to choose--first decide on a basic type of bike, such as hybrid, mountain, road, etc. For your purposes you don't need much right now. At this point ANY bike would be better than NO bike! I say don't spend much on your first bike, used is fine, just try to find one which is comfortable for your mountain-like height. Buying from a similarly tall private party might be your best bet, $100-$250. Otherwise, if you have the cash, look for an entry-level new bike in whatever category you choose, $200-$600. Check out the major manufacturers--cheap bikes by trek, giant, specialized, etc. should all be good enough--go with the best deal, or whatever brand the LBS carries. Then next spring look to upgrade if you're still riding.

As for accesories--LOTS of info here in the old threads. Lights--must have if you're riding in the dark or dusk. Fenders--they do keep you and the bike cleaner, but are not absolutely essential. Lock--spend around 20 % of the bike's value, up to $100 or so, as a rough guideline. Take the bike into your apartment and workplace, if possible. Saddlebags--they're called panniers, and you can get them at your LBS or online--many choices, much controversy about which is "best." Most people never seem to be satisfied!

My main advice to any newbie is don't get bogged down in the details. Just find a damn bike and ride it. The rest will follow! :) Have fun and good luck.


h00ligan
08-12-06, 10:23 PM
thanks to you both! heh, i had a structure for all the questions but it fell away.

jy - do you have a preferred LBS - mine is the one on 69th and 2nd. The one thing that turns me off the diamondback is the lack of a chainguard. I'm not all that keen on riding without one. Thanks for all the recs on stuff that's maybe specific to NYC. The mini u was the lock I had planned on getting - i can't see someone ripping the bike off from the front of my office - it's a very busy area and the bike is within eyeshot of our security - who like me a lot :). Also - as a (cough, smoker, cough) I'm down a few times through the day. At home, the back area of my apt complex - well it's three prewars joined to a nice garden. I don't think it's a problem back there with limited access.. but may be hard to find something to lock it to.

I'll check on Craigslist and see if anyone "mountainlike" *grin* is getting rid of a large framed bike. The only problem there is having no idea how to tell if it is abused (aside from rust i guess).

btw - that first bike in our sig looks very nice - seems like you have it rigged well for commuting. I guess 5th ave has a bike path, but i gather that doesn't mean much since everyone pollutes it anyway.> I've pretty uch resigned to the fact i'll have to dodge traffic.

nycm'er
08-12-06, 10:40 PM
JY you really covered it, thank you. h00l I would say fenders, and I have the ones JY recommended, are a necessity. They really cover the wheel and keep water and that lovely sludge that leaks out the bottom of garbage trucks, off you. Bomb proof tires are probably the only thing not really mentioned here, expect to spend 32 to 42 dollars and expect to not have any punctures. LBS' are like anything else in the city, you have to know which will serve which function, and it is just a matter of experience and opinion. Also consider uglifying your ride once you get it, i.e. hockey tape etc.

As a bike recommendation, check out the Surly Pacer (it's a road frame, I would not get a mountain bike for the city), I love mine and can pull a pretty mean average speed with her. Where to see one in the city? That I don't know, but def check around. Bike Works on the LES has the Surly track frame. I know that Gotham/Toga have a lifetime service deal, (If you go to Gotham, ask for joe)
Lastly, if you have some help with purchasing and are willing to take a risk, Ebay has some great machines that are cheap. Let us know what you do.

filtersweep
08-12-06, 10:52 PM
I highly recommend a laptop BACKPACK rather than pannier bags-- esp. for such a short commute. I think bags would be a tight fit, and offer little protection.

h00ligan
08-12-06, 11:14 PM
so nycm - what sort of tires are you running? So we're back to fenders and a chaing guard :) It's my understanding you can't really get an aftermarket chainguarg easily...or can you?

As for the LBS - nothing is really FAR, but obviously it would be nice to have a place wicked close. I don't mind uglifying the ride, but also assume that will happen rather quickly with use and group lockup centers.. heh.

filter - i have a vaio bag that is a good backpack - but it also tends to bleed black when it rains. Maybe i'll chuck it in the wash and try to bleed it all out - it's also missing the waist strap at this point. The problem i have with riding with a backpack is that I have ruptured my L5 2 times in the last 20 months - one more is magic surg. time. So i am trying to keep the weight off.

nycm'er
08-13-06, 08:13 AM
Just now I am in transition in respect to my tires, I even started a recommendation thread in the Commuting forum. I think I will be switching to Continental Contacts. I have Specialized Armadillos but only for a month or so on another bike. There are debates all over the forum, and there seems to be no definitive answer. But I can tell you that with the Continental Top Touring I ran for 4 years, I never had a puncture, flats from failed tubes, but never a puncture. Sadly, these tires have been discontinued.

As to Chainguards, I haven't seen many or any aftermarket guards either. What is wrong with rolling up a pant leg? or are you wearing a suit to work? I guess you need to figure out how you are going to get to work vs. what sort of presentability you need to project. My commute varies between 2 miles to 8, and sometimes up to 20, I almost always change at work, but I wear carharts and am rather disheveled after several hours anyway. So I escape the need for a presentable suit and could ride in my work clothes if need be. Rolling up a pantleg or strapping it back are also commonly debated on the Forums.

Taping up the frame usually protects the paint which protects your steel frame, if you go aluminum, I guess don't worry about it.

capejohn
08-13-06, 09:22 AM
If you wait long enough, every bike made will be recommended to you. Get a bike and start commuting. You will very quickly work out all the details.

cooker
08-13-06, 09:36 AM
As for the LBS - nothing is really FAR, but obviously it would be nice to have a place wicked close. I don't mind uglifying the ride, but also assume that will happen rather quickly with use and group lockup centers.. heh.

You don't have to buy from the LBS where you will go for service. If you're not a do-it-yourself-er, they'll make much more off you from routine maintenance and repairs than from the initial purchase. You could buy a junk bike for $100, get the LBS to check it over and replace whatever is worn out for maybe another $100, ride it to death, and your subway savings will buy you a new bike next spring.

cooker
08-13-06, 09:45 AM
I secure my pants with a velcro strap in fall and spring and I only ride in shorts in summer. Your commute is short enough that you can get away with riding in business attire without sweating so I see the appeal of a chainguard, which is likely to be found on a British- or Dutch-style upright commuter.

AndrewP
08-13-06, 11:15 AM
The diamondback outlook should be good for you if your LBS can get the 22" size. It will roll easier if you get the shop to swap the standard tires for some thinner ones with smooth treads. There is very little to choose between different makes of bikes in the same price range. Therefore if your LBS is helpful, get one that they carry. To keep dirt off your pants, roll them up to just below the knee when you ride. You wont need discs as there arent any big mountains to ride down in NYC. You will need fenders as you wont know when you will be caught by a sudden storm.

jyossarian
08-13-06, 12:00 PM
h00l, sounds like you're south of me if your LBS is Pedal Pusher. I don't have a favorite, just one that's close, but I spend my money all over the city depending on what I need and where I am. Larry & Jeff's on 3rd and 80th, the other Larry & Jeff's on 2nd and 87th, Toga on the UWS, Gotham on Church & Canal, Habitat on Lafayette, Bike Works on Ridge, Sid's on 34th bet. 2nd & 3rd, plus all the others.

You could try a bashguard in place of a chain guard if you get a mtb., but I just use a geek strap around my pant leg or roll up the leg. Both keep the pants from getting snarled. You may wanna check out the Kona Smoke for commuting although it's a bit heavy. Comes w/ fenders and a bashguard.

As for my Haro, yup it's a mtb converted for commuting usage. IRC Metro slicks, Freddy fenders and a rack. I just swapped out the old saddle for a Brooks for more comfort and it made a big difference. I didn't know how much I was suffering until I tried a Brooks. Although it's set up for commuting, I use the fixie more for commutes because it's lighter and faster and the mtb gets the crap weather call for commuting.

h00ligan
08-14-06, 01:32 AM
see that's the other thought - just get the lightest most minimal single speed with jack all on it and carry a backpack - so many choices.

my days are split pretty evenly between jeans and trousers.. but yah - short commute so i don't think i will sweat much - which makes the prospect of riding in what i wear more viable - hence the chainguard :) i've been checking craigslist but it's going to be fw and far between that i find a big enough bike there - most are 17/19 - not made for the beanpoles.

i dunno what to buy :p

MichaelW
08-14-06, 03:07 AM
A large size MTB would be fine but really almost any style of bike would work.
Switch the tyres to some kevlar banded slick or semi slick. 1.5-1.75" in width. These will be tougher and faster than cheap knobbly tyres.
For 2.5 miles a backpack is fine. If you want to haul groceries then a set of panniers is useful. Modern ones should have a quick-release clip-on mounting, not old fashioned hook and elastic.
You dont need any special clothing, I ride that distance in a suit.
Keep your chain clean and use a clean lube. Wax-in-solvent lubes (White Lightening or Pedroes ice) are clean and easy to use. I use a springy metal or plastic trouser-clip to keep my pants out of the chain. Full length chainguards are impossible to find in shops but chainring guards are available. Fenders are essential and full length, bolt on ones are the best.

You dont have to buy everything at once. For 2.5 miles I dont carry any repair kit but a small puncture kit (inc spare inner tube) may be useful. Longer rides need more toolage.
Gortex or breathable waterproofs are good but I rode for years with a cheap nylon waterproof. Gloves a and helmet are probably a higher priority.

jyossarian
08-14-06, 10:06 AM
Like Michael said, any bike will do. I'd suggest that whatever bike you get, it have eyelets for fenders and a rack. As for your commute, mine is actually shorter and yet I still wear shorts and a t-shirt and carry clothes in my backpack because I still sweat and it's summer. Come fall and winter, I just wear my work pants and a geek strap an carry my shirt in the bag.

Roody
08-14-06, 12:00 PM
see that's the other thought - just get the lightest most minimal single speed with jack all on it and carry a backpack - so many choices.

my days are split pretty evenly between jeans and trousers.. but yah - short commute so i don't think i will sweat much - which makes the prospect of riding in what i wear more viable - hence the chainguard :) i've been checking craigslist but it's going to be fw and far between that i find a big enough bike there - most are 17/19 - not made for the beanpoles.

i dunno what to buy :p
It sounds like you might be getting caught up in the details. Unfortunately, threads like this one can make it harder for somebody to actually get a bike! IMO, the main thing is to decide the basic type of bike (commuter/hybrid, MTB, road) and then just buy a cheap one--new or used. Don't worry about accessories, gear, panniers, etc. That can be added gradually as you discover the style of riding that you like. Utility riding is a developing process, and much of the challenge and fun comes later. Even if the bike's a little too small, it's not the end of the ride. For now it's good enough just to actually get your butt to work on a bike. The rest will follow.

After all, you're only going 2.5 miles. Why not just walk? That would take 40 minutes, probably less time than it takes your co-workers from the suburbs to drive in. I'm not really suggesting that you walk, because riding is more fun. I'm just saying that you don't need the perfectly equipped rig to commute 2.5 miles. Whatever you buy now will have some resale value that you will be able to apply to a trade-up if you stick with the riding (which most people don't, to be brutally honest).

thdave
08-14-06, 12:02 PM
Get a Breezer. Vossarian's advice is good, too, but I think that kind of bike is needlessly fast and sporty for your short and fairly flat ride. You do not need all those gears--I'd stick to an internal gear hub with 3 to 8 gears. Also, it is a pain to pick out all those accessories and install them. I think the Citizen would be perfect for you.

Sawtooth
08-14-06, 12:12 PM
If you wait long enough, every bike made will be recommended to you. Get a bike and start commuting. You will very quickly work out all the details.

+1
I personally think that disk brakes are way way way overrated. To read this forums, you would think that it is almost suicidal to run a rim brake in conditions that are wet or muddy. Anyone who has been riding for more than a couple of years remembers back when they weren't even an option. I have ridden countless miles of muddy singletrack with rim brakes and did just fine. Admittedly, the disks work better, but rim brakes are still functional enough for most folks.

JohnBrooking
08-14-06, 12:45 PM
Maybe you've already bought it by now, but I'll tell you that I was in the same situation as you 4 years ago, and frankly I'm still not too up on the different brands and styles. I too walked into my LBS and bought a Diamondback Crestview purely on the salesman's recommendation, and it's worked out okay. My commute is 5 miles each way, so nothing real expensive is necessary. This was under $300, I think new. It had a chainguard. The components all wore out more or less at once after 4 years of year-round riding and I got rid of it cheap. I could have spent some money replacing everything, but I opted to put the money into a new one instead. (Which promptly got stolen and replaced with two cheap used ones, but that's another story.)

So I guess I don't know whether it was an unqualified success, but for the money, it served me well. My LBS guy describes Diamondback as good for the money, although obviously not high end. Depends on what you need and want. My needs and wants were and still are modest. Make of this what you will.

BTW, neither of my current bikes has a chainguard, although I wish they did. For those days when it's too cold for shorts and I choose to ride in my work slacks, I've taken to rubber-banding a rag to the inside of my right leg, to take the grease stains. Dorky but it works. Maybe leg warmers would be slightly less dorky, but what do I know from style? :)

Roody
08-14-06, 07:16 PM
BTW, neither of my current bikes has a chainguard, although I wish they did. For those days when it's too cold for shorts and I choose to ride in my work slacks, I've taken to rubber-banding a rag to the inside of my right leg, to take the grease stains. Dorky but it works. Maybe leg warmers would be slightly less dorky, but what do I know from style? :)
If dorky is your style, wouldn't it be easier to just wear a big old hunting sock and tuck your pants leg into it? Or even cut the foot end off a hunting sock and wear the tube over your pants like gaiters?

JohnBrooking
08-14-06, 08:45 PM
Yes, or just roll up my cuff to my knee, unless it's really cold, like in winter. But if it is, actually the rag solution is usually more convenient because rags and rubber bands are always in abundant supply at our house, whereas things that I only have one or two of tend to get lost!

h00ligan
08-14-06, 11:53 PM
you all make some good points - i'll check craigslist a bit more - see what i can find.. i can add fenders to pretty much anything and a rack.. i'll talk to the LBS and see if they will customize something like an outlok with the right tires for the road...check the options. Haven't bought yet but by friday i will have.

I am toying with renting a bike for the day on thursday and riding it in - maybe even friday too.. but that's 60 bucks.. heh -nearly 1/3 of the way to a very entry level bike.. maybe i can get him to credit it if i buy a bike form him.. hmm. At any rate.. if i get a chance to find a good deal on cl i'll jump on it.. but i don' twant anything TOO small.. at 6'5" it's enough of a hassle to bend over for everything ever without making my (albeit short) commute less comfortable.

I've also been paying attn to the cyclists here - it's made me a bit nervous (which i wasn't before) watching them in traffic - to be honest. wonder how many cyclist deaths there are in manhattan a year... oof

21 apparently - estimated 100k riders here. Wonder how many non fatal collisions.. ugh... they needt o make this city mass transit, 2 wheel, and taxi only. of course also delivery vehicles. apparently severe but not critical accidents involving cyclists is in the thousands.. wow.

I'll check out the routes, i may be able to do the majority as a riverside ride - which is off the road -it's longer, but i have a feeling it would be faster anyway.. then i just have to cut about 4 blocks accross town - one downside is a break in the riverside route-- i'm sure you guys could BOOK on this route too. Worth a weekend ride to see how it is i think.

Zero_Enigma
08-15-06, 03:12 AM
Hooligan,

You name is familiar. Are you on any other forums?

Well this is what I would look at first.

1. Get a bike that fits your height. Mountain bike, hybrid, or road.

MTB and Hybrid have the advantage of a more rugged frame and can take wider tires which allows you some room to expand later if you takeup your riding a notch or want to ride in the winter. Wider tires in the winter allow more ground coverage to prevent slippage.

Road bikes have a drop handle bar so you're normally in the hunched position which may be uncomfortable for some. The bike is also lighter then the MTB or Hybrid thus making it go faster.

Either bike format is good as long as you're comfortable with it. I prefer a traditional "A" frame then all these sloppy or rear suspension stuff because with a "A frame you can put more into the bike and the accessories tend to be (at least I find) geared more for A frame bikes. When buying the bike the seat that comes with the bike may/may-not be to your liking. If the LBS allows a upgrade to another seat I'd take it and try different seats to find one that is comfy and soft for your tush. Backpain can occur with a bad seat. If the LBS does not allow a seat upgrade then keep the seat and get a cheap soft one to make the ride more comfortable. Keep the spare seat as a just incase your current seat gets stolen or breaks or etc.

2. After buying the bike you gotta keep it road legal.

*HELMET: Some places are manditory that you need a helmet. The prices of a helmet can very from $12 USD up to $100+ USD. Check with your local LBS AND call the cops to make sure the data given checks out. In Canada (yes I know you're in NYC) over 18 yrs old and you have that option to wear or not wear a helmet and I do think NYC is the same but don't quote me. I've had some spills before but only once I had slight chance of me rolling over to hit a tree (like my body fell but I was rolling on the ground) with my head butI had a helmet on. I didn't hit the tree but just tapped my head on the tree out of frustration. IMHO a helmet is good insurance of your safety. You decide if you want one or not if given the option. Sometimes it's better to look goofy with a helmet on then dead.

Annyways I break the needs down to three catagories before for what you need to buy from the nessessary to optional.


BARE BASIC: Front/rear and side reflectors. Daytime legal requirement. (normally the LBS will give you the front/back reflectors included Some would throw in the wheel side reflectors for free if you ask)

DAWN & DUSK: BASIC + rear blinking light and front bright light. Nighttime legal requirement.

AT NIGHT: BASIC + DAWN & DUSK + better headlight that gives you more light on the road. (optional)


If you forsee yourself riding at dawn/dusk then you need a rear blinky light (Walmart cheap!) and a headlight. I hail north of ther 49th parallel so I'll try to convert the amounts to USD for you. I use a cheap but very functional/versatile Wally bike light combo set. It comes with a rear blinky with 5-6 flashing modes and the front light that uses a Xeon light bulb for bright light and LED's to save power when you're in very bright areas. The front light has 4 modes. Xeon high, Xeon low, 2 x LED, 2 x LED flashing. It runs off 4xAA for the headlight and the rear 2xAAA (I use recharabgles but cheap dollar store lights would give you a good months run time min. at night before you need to buy a new set pending how much you ride at night). The set costed me around $18 CDN so that's around $15 USD and cheaper then paying $12'ish CDN for each item seperately. Both are tooless mount on. IMHO best price for a decent light. Everything quick releases and locks in POSITIVELY so nothing falls off. I like stuff that clicks and holds positively.

If you plan later to ride at night I'm currently spotting a NiteHawk Emitter ( www.mec.ca -> Cycling -> Lights $65 CDN) htat's IMHO cheapest balance of cost with as much light as I can get for the price. Gives me a 9watt equivlence of light and runs off 4xAA which you can get anywhere. One hiccup is the mount design. That's the failure point. I use rubber bands to hold the unit in so it does not fall off on the bumps. Otherwise best light for the dollar with AA cells. Trying to keep things cheap and telling you stuff that I like that works as I've tried a few products already for the front/back lights.

As always it's a VERY good idea to carry a backup rear light incase the rear one breaks or something. Most LBS's will have the little keychain lights for red or white for around $3-4 CDN/$2.50-3.50ish USD. Just put that light with you house or lock keys so if/whenever your rear light goes out you have that backup ready and hopefully not get run over by a car. Front light is not as important as the rear as you can see in front and have more control to moveout of the way unless the car is intentionally coming for you then you're screwed then.

3. LOCKS.

As someone posted before 20% of the bike value is a good number to go on. If you plan on riding a lot daily and maintain the bike as your primary mode of transportation then I would get a better lock for it then the 20% if the bike grows on you (ie. effection/love for you bike). Two locks of difference locking/key systems will buy you more luck that your bike won't get stolen as a theif has to work twice as hard with two tools to get your bike.

4. Fenders (optional)

Unless you're riding during a rain storm or after rain through puddles. Some might just take the transit that day.

5. Chainguard (optional)

Like the other Canuck said he uses velcro. Well I use a cheaper solution aquirable anywhere. It's rubber bands. Like the red ones that are around 2mm wide that you find in all grocery stores when you buy veggies and such. I've ridden with casual/dress/jeans/combats and the rubberband works fine and almost no wrinkle you can't just give a slight tug to smooth out. Fold the pant leg material to ome side wrapping the leg then slip the rubberband over and it holds well. I always carry at least 3 on my wrist incase one breaks. Or you could buy a chainguard if you can find one\ if your bike does not come iht one stock.

6. Panniers/Rack/Backpack/Basket (optional)

I don't own any cloth panniers other then the folding wire basket so I can't really comment on that. As for a back rack IMHO I think it's a good item to have. It's usefulness will come up shortly after installed. I know some friends that bought bikes without it thinking they won't need it and such till thier backpack or whatever was not comfty so they offloaded to a rack. These racks can be had cheap like around $15 USD that gets the job done. Also I'm not sure if this is a universal case as on my bike if I want the rear fenders in I need to attach that to my rear rack.

Side folding baskets are something to think about if you wish to do grocery runs witht he bike later. This is all aquireable later. A backpack helps keep the load balanced. I use a Targus RakGear myself but took out the RAK rack for more space in the bag. If you decide on a rear basket WALD is a good company to go with. A top basket for the rear rack can allow you to strap you backpack/bag into the basket and take the load off the back and keep the back cool in hot temps.

7. TIRES.

I ride a MTB so I have knobs on mine. Basically square rubber studs. On my other MTB I use Contentintal Town & Country tires. I've used Continential Travel Contacts before. ( http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/tires/city/travelcontact/travelcontact_en.html ) Both the Town&Country and Travel Contact give a smooth ride. Seeing as my Town&Country tires came with my bike I did not know the cost. The TravelContacts costedme $37 CDN each so around $34 USD a piece. The TravelContact allows you to pump the tire to a higher PSI thus having a faster ride. The Town&Country tire is a thick smooth workhorse. Lots of rubber for long useage. I've only had a flat tube and never a tire puncture with those. Amazing tires. I think they cost around the same price range as the TravelContact. For your money I'd go with a long lasting tire that way you have a longer time to worry about replacing it. If you want good city grip and to go faster then get a TravelContact. Both run well and last long. I've used a few other cheap no name ones before and they did not last long before the rubber rubbed off.

8. Tools.

I got a cheap CCM multitool pouch that costs like $18 bucks CDN on sale or something like that. Came with tire levers and patches to fix the tire. Small enough to fit into the palm of your hand as a complete package. It is highly recommended you learn how to take your tire off as that would be the most common issue you'll have while riding is a flat. Patching a tire is straight forward once you get the tire off. If the LBS is nice then they can show you how to take it off. Alternatively, going to Wally's and asking the sports guy in the bike area they could so you as well if you ask kindly. Sometimes the LBS won't show you so they can get you by changing your tire and charging you like $20 + $5 parts to do it. Practice on the front wheel first till you're good and comfortable before you try the backwheel. Most gas stations will allow bikes to fill up air free but you never know when you'll be outside a gas station zone or in a bad situation where you need to pump quick and move even if it's to get a little air in so you don't grind your rim out. Pumps can be had cheap. Up here we have Canadian Tire ( www.canadiantire.ca ) and I got a small Raleigh cheap bike pump with a flexible hose. Any pump will do. They all pump. I just those to get one with a guage so I know how much air is in it and I don't have to carry a tire guage as well. The pump I got ran me like $12 CDN on sale I think. Pumps without guages are around $3 cheaper. You basically need a cheap patch kit (anyone will do) and a pump. That's it when you want to get down ot the core. The spare tube would be optional and very handy as if the patch kits don't solve your problem then just put the spar tube on and you're good to rock and roll. That pump I mentioned fits in the pocket or cargo pants. if you want to keep minimum or fits in any bag and is light.



Hope that helps or gives you osmethingto think on.

Zero_Enigma

thdave
08-15-06, 05:48 AM
Many think that fenders and chainguards and the like are foolish. They are for those who enjoy long rides and going fast. But not for city rides.

You will ride more often with them than without. Especially for a 2.5 mile ride. I went riding last night, right after a storm--something I couldn't do without fenders. Make sure your purchase has them or the drops to add fenders. Chainguards keep the chain and pants clean. They are also hard to get for derailler bikes (chain moves) and you might only be able to protect the front sprocket. If you don't get a utility bike (like Breezer) then talk to the bikeshop and make sure you purchase these with the bike and have them installed for you--I'd think most manufacturers would have recommendations for these. They will work and last longer.

CBBaron
08-15-06, 07:49 AM
Like has been mentioned just get a bike you are comfortable with. For that short of commute anything is going to work. Because you are not interested in working on your bike I'd suggest a single speed or hub gear bike. You could get a SS or hub gear with coaster brake but I suggest make sure it also has a good V or canti brake on the front wheel.
You will really appreciate fenders if the road is wet or you get caught in the rain. Make sure the bike can easily mount a pair.
A backpack or messenger bag is the simplest way to carry a laptop and other stuff. That way you don't need a rack and it comes with you by default.
In NYC you are going to want a very good lock no matter what the bike. You may want to buy one of the top rated Kryptonite or Onguard U-locks or chains to leave where you lock up at work. And then carry a little bit lighter lock like a mini-U lock and cable for locking up for a short while at other destinations. Also make sure you use the lock correctly. An inexpensive bike locked well is a less desirable target for thieves.
Craig

nycm'er
08-15-06, 07:54 AM
If you wait long enough, every bike made will be recommended to you. Get a bike and start commuting. You will very quickly work out all the details.

And so it is true...

You don't need a helmet in NYC, I have dented enough of them, I wear one all the time. You need blinkies in NYC, but not lights to see by. You can read the paper almost anywhere in Manhattan and most everywhere else in the City, i.e. lights to be seen, not to see by.

To be blunt, we lost 4 cyclists last week in NYC. Two kids and two messengers. But like you said there are 100k others out there.

I have a real beater, and it was a little more ridable I would lend it to you. lett me know if you want to borrow it.

One last bit from me, if you want to move quick, get a road bike, you dont have to be all hunched over though surprisingly, that is most comfortable. If you want to lope along, not worrying about potholes etc, get a mountain bike.
Good luck

jyossarian
08-15-06, 08:16 AM
Oh, one thing about mtbs, you don't need a front suspension fork for the city. It sounds like a good idea for potholes, but they're heavy and you can actually make do w/ a rigid fork which is lighter.

As for cyclists deaths, it's an unavoidable fact for the city. Ride safe and exercise common sense and caution and you should be fine.

carless
08-15-06, 10:16 PM
If you wait long enough, every bike made will be recommended to you. Get a bike and start commuting. You will very quickly work out all the details.

Now thats good.

h00ligan
08-16-06, 12:38 AM
i was looking at the bike map - but it seems to be almost 2 years old now. I heard today that the east river is now one continuous stretch with no street riding necessary on the greenway from 70th to 18th. On the map it looked like there was a street breakout at about 62nd or so - then a southbound type 3 path 9signed only no lane) until maybe 14 blocks later. If in fact there's a straight run down with no street detour as i was told today - this would be both a relatively safe and fast commute.

Any manhattanites kow if they did in fact bridge that gap by the bucket of bolts in the last year? Apparently there's a cafe for cyclists and joggers in the middle of the new stretch - if that helps orient.

Couple blocks east to the river - off at 20th-18 and over to 5th.. should be WICKED fast.

I went to look at bikes today at 6th and 15th. The guy there (dan) was super helpful. He shoed me the trek 7000 and the ermm other one that is like the commuter series but with bigger wheels (7.2 fx). He said the 100 and 200 are unavailable due to popularity and a short production run - which stinks.

He showed me the diamondback transporter too.. any thoughts on that bike?

Also, the fenders recommended in here are clip on? bad for theft, i need some permanent mounted i think..?

jyossarian
08-16-06, 09:23 AM
The East River MUP extends south to 62nd St. where it dumps you onto York Ave. The MUP doesn't start back up until E38th St. and from there it extends south to South St. Seaport. From E62nd to E38th, you have to ride on the streets. You can pick up a new bike map at any LBS or go to nyc.gov and look for biking links and have them mail you one.

As for fenders, get full coverage fenders that bolt onto the fender eyelets on the fork and rear dropouts. Clip ons don't provide enough coverage and will throw water and mud onto your pants and drivetrain. Freddy fenders are good, but the included mud guards need to be a bit longer to further reduce crap being thrown onto your feet and drivetrain.

h00ligan
08-17-06, 12:19 AM
thanks for the info jy - damn, i was hoping it extended more.

I"m going to rent a bike on saturday and take a ride a few different ways.

What streets do you think would best fit a southbound morning commute on the east side... the 5th ave bike lane is a joke.

jyossarian
08-17-06, 08:11 AM
5th Ave. doesn't have a bike lane. Depending on where you live, I'd try 2nd Ave., Lex, Park and 5th. None of them have bike lanes and each has their +/-. 2nd Ave. gets snarled around the entrance to the Q'boro bridge, but isn't bad after that. Lex is jam packed until about 42nd and the roadway is pretty rough from around E47 to E42. Park Ave. is 2-way so the lights aren't synchronized and you have to watch out for traffic making a left in front of you. It also has the Helmsley & GCT in the way at around 46th. 5th is bumpy in the bus lane and the buses don't play. They're in a hurry. It also gets jam packed from about 59th to 42nd. Take your pick. :)

BTW, riding it on a Saturday is no indication of what traffic is like during the weekday.

nycm'er
08-17-06, 09:04 AM
One style choice: Try riding on the left side of one way streets. It is legal in NYC on roads that are wider than 40 feet. I do it everywhere regardless. I find it improves my visibility to drivers immensely. No "Right"(left) Hooks and no buses to cut you off. etc etc

jyossarian
08-17-06, 09:50 AM
One style choice: Try riding on the left side of one way streets. It is legal in NYC on roads that are wider than 40 feet. I do it everywhere regardless. I find it improves my visibility to drivers immensely. No "Right"(left) Hooks and no buses to cut you off. etc etc
I do that, but left hooks are still a possibility. The safest place to ride seems to be in the middle when you can flow w/ traffic. BTW, I don't advocate anyone doing this unless they can move the same speed as traffic.