Touring - Sorry for the multi-post - Clyde must ride!

Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.




Texas Bubba
08-13-06, 09:58 PM
Sorry for the multiple posts!!! Apparently I was posting while they were doing server maintenance and this was the result. I'm really not a jack_ss. Below is the original post that would not show up. If anybody knows how to delete the other posts please let me know.

Original:
I can't pick a bike. I think the volpe would work but the 520 and t800 look nice too - along with surly and specialized tricross - lol. Unfortunately none are stocked here in Houston except the tricross and one 58 volpe (I'm a 54-55). At 340lbs the bike pick is critical. The problem is - well not really a problem, I have been losing weight pretty regularly. I have been losing ~10lbs a month since April. Before I plateau I want to get back to riding. I had planned to do some hiking before the bike purchase but knee surgery ended that option. I want a bike that will work now but be even better when I'm ~270lbs. Are these good options or should I stick to a mtb with slicks? I haven't really found many nice mtbs with rigid forks.

I plan to ride for fitness and then move to longer rides like touring and our local MS150 ride. I live near a paved trail that is quite long - probably +18 miles round trip. I plan on a 32-36 spoke front and probably a tandem wheel on back.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Steve in Houston


nm+
08-14-06, 12:13 AM
I'm 280ish and cracked my 520. I doubt the alu t800 would be any more durable, I'm destroyed a few alu bikes. I'm also not convinced that any of those bikes are any stronger than the 520. In both MTBs and road/tourers, I've become conviced that custom is the way to go.
Note that I put a quite a bit of torque to the pedals -- you can see the frame flex noticably as I pedal -- and that is just as likely to have caused the damage as the weight. Also note that i was carrying a lot of extar weight and stressing it more than you might (was riding cross country).
Whatever you get, get one with a lifetime warrenty. Saved me quite a bit of money, though once a frame cracks, i tend to sell th new warranty frame and go with something else.
I terms of ride, I'd recommend the 520 to any clyde, however, yu'll forgive me if I'm a bit sceptical of its durability.
FWIW, I run a the stock 36-hole Bontrager Mavrick in the front and a 48-hole Bontrager Clyde (you see, the name should draw you) with a high-flange XT tandem hum with a shortened axle.

Hawkgrove
08-14-06, 11:41 AM
Check out the Marin Muirwoods. It’s a street bike with 26” wheels and has a steel frame. I have no personal experience with Marin but have looked them over at the LBS and they appear well made. I use a 96 Trek 830 mountain bike with rigid fork that has Continental Town and Country tires with a set of wheels from Harris (Sun Rhyno Lites with Deore hubs). This has served me well as a commuter and street/bike path ride. I am 220 and have ridden this setup when I was around 240-250. I’m just thinking a good steel mountain bike like frame and some sturdy wheels would serve all your purposes.


invisiblehand
08-14-06, 01:42 PM
Well ... given that you are planning on losing another 70+ pounds, perhaps you would be better off getting a cheaper bike now and then buying a "keeper" when you reach your target weight. Several posts give the Windsor tourer accolades. Apparently it is a copy of the Fuji tourer which has its fans.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

My thought is that if you get to 250 pounds or less, you may want a different bike than at 340.

If instead you want to get a high quality bike for a heavy person, a good alternative is the Kogswell Randonneur. It has a sturdy steel frame and fork. Losts of brazeons for racks and such. It has smaller wheels which--all other things equal--are inherently stronger. There is a smaller selection of tires; but the selection is good for touring and commuting. Note that they only sell the frame and fork ($500).

http://www.kogswell.com/PR.html

Juha
08-15-06, 03:36 AM
If anybody knows how to delete the other posts please let me know.
There's no way you can delete a thread, that's a job for the Mods. In that spirit I just deleted the extra copies.

--J, a Forum Mod

dannwilliams
08-15-06, 06:13 AM
Co-Motion makes a bike for heavy riders: http://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html but is not cheap.

dannwilliams
08-15-06, 06:14 AM
Co-Motion makes a bike for heavy riders: http://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html but is not cheap.

invisiblehand
08-15-06, 09:29 AM
There is another thread in the touring forum discussing mountain bikes. You never mention price as a constraint, but 26" tires and a steel mountain bike frame/fork is probably a good low-budget alternative. If you are handy, you can put this together yourself. Nashbar recently release a Reynolds 853 mountain bike frame for $400. They also have a decent alternative for $70.

The Reynolds 853 frame
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=130&subcategory=1176&brand=&sku=17655&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=
The 4130 frame
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=130&subcategory=1176&brand=&sku=14736&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

And they sell a 4130 steel rigid fork for $60
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=86&subcategory=1183&brand=&sku=13284&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

I have a strong preference for drop bars and am willing to spend a day putting a bike together. So given your constraints, I would go with the slick/trekking 26" tires and put together a bike that fits your needs since finding a ready-made bike and altering it appears expensive.

Good luck! Please let us know what you decide.