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DoYlE_RiD3r
08-18-06, 08:47 AM
Can you paint your frame with spray paint ??

Dr.Deltron
08-18-06, 11:42 PM
NO!!!

You can ONLY paint your frame with a brush & a gallon of semi-gloss latex.

And ONLY if your frame is NOT METAL of any kind!

bryan213
08-19-06, 10:00 PM
yes you can... i painted my bike with spray paint from a can.. you need to prep the surface very well with primer and then sand that down a little bit then more primer make the surface perferct then but a good base down then put a couple coats then clear it a couple times...... wait a day or two let it sit in the sun... then get 1500 grit wet sand paper and wet sand the clear coat...then get 3m hand compound and 3m hand/machine glaze... compound the surface to get the shine back then put a good coat or two or glaze

Dr.Deltron
09-19-06, 09:11 AM
yes you can... i painted my bike with spray paint from a can.. you need to prep the surface very well with primer and then sand that down a little bit then more primer make the surface perferct then but a good base down then put a couple coats then clear it a couple times...... wait a day or two let it sit in the sun... then get 1500 grit wet sand paper and wet sand the clear coat...then get 3m hand compound and 3m hand/machine glaze... compound the surface to get the shine back then put a good coat or two or glaze
And you still won't have the shine you get if you spray the clear carefully!
If for some reason you DO have to sand, use 2000 grit as the last level of sandpaper. Theeen do all that tedious hand work with 3M Finesse followed by the glaze.
Again, you're better off getting the clear on properly and avoiding all that hand work. Don't ask me how I know this, just trust me on this one.
...or not, it's up to you!

wneumann
09-29-06, 08:14 AM
yes you can... i painted my bike with spray paint from a can.. you need to prep the surface very well with primer and then sand that down a little bit then more primer make the surface perferct then but a good base down then put a couple coats then clear it a couple times......

I've been toying with the idea of painting up an old frame, and this seems like the easiest way to get started. Would I want to strip off the old paint that's on the frame, or just sand it down and lay down a good primer base? Also, are any paints or primers recommended over others?

Nessism
09-29-06, 12:53 PM
I've been toying with the idea of painting up an old frame, and this seems like the easiest way to get started. Would I want to strip off the old paint that's on the frame, or just sand it down and lay down a good primer base? Also, are any paints or primers recommended over others?

What are we talking here, rattle cans?

Assuming you have good solid paint to begin with, no serious rust, you can just scuff the existing paint and spray a sealer to lock down the old finish. If you have issues to begin with you would be better off to strip the old finish by sandblasting and/or chemical striping.

When I paint a frame I use PPG DPLF Epoxy primer/sealer - not rattle can stuff. Sorry but I can't suggest anything else since this is all I use.

wneumann
09-29-06, 01:22 PM
What are we talking here, rattle cans?

Yeah. This would be a test run to see if I've got the ability and patience for anything beyond that. I used to do quite a bit of furniture refinishing years ago, and wouldn't mind getting back into it and setting up a spray booth, so I might eventually move on to something beyond the cans. But I'd like to make sure it strikes my fancy as much in real life as it does in my head first.

squirtdad
10-02-06, 04:38 PM
I know there are a lot of threads about this....can the guys with experience (i.e have goofed it up a lot and are now not gooing up) give an idea about:

For a guy redoing a steel frame (and willing to do a lot of work...my turn my old nishiki into a utility commuter with bright paint is a decompression type of thing)

1) is it worth it to get a small air touch up sprayer (i have a compressor) and use automotive (if you can get auto in small amounts)

or

2) the the aerosol gizmo (Propel?) that lets you pour your own paint into a bottle and create your own spay can

or

3) go for rattle can and if not great do it over in the future.


ps: check out Dr. Deltron's stuff.....seriously cool painting

thanks to all

2)

Dr.Deltron
10-10-06, 03:40 PM
I know there are a lot of threads about this....can the guys with experience (i.e have goofed it up a lot and are now not gooing up) give an idea about:

For a guy redoing a steel frame (and willing to do a lot of work...my turn my old nishiki into a utility commuter with bright paint is a decompression type of thing)

1) is it worth it to get a small air touch up sprayer (i have a compressor) and use automotive (if you can get auto in small amounts)

or

2) the the aerosol gizmo (Propel?) that lets you pour your own paint into a bottle and create your own spay can

or

3) go for rattle can and if not great do it over in the future.


ps: check out Dr. Deltron's stuff.....seriously cool painting

thanks to all
1A) Probably NOT! The smallest quantities of auto paint will cost you $$$$! (enough to paint a dozen frames if you use an HVLP detail gun.

2A) Refer to #3.

3A) Best bet for the buck. For full details on technique, go to Classic & Vintage and search for the thread titled "Spraypainting a frame" by jgedwa. Posts #30 & #33.

Sorry to the OP here, in my first post I was being blatantly sarcastic (a real JERK as my wife says):(
No harm intended. Spraypainting is how I got started back in '73! And if you want to see where that led, check out my site;

mbent.net

Thanks for the cudos, Squirtdad.

Good luck to all & email me anytime if I can help you avoid some of the foibles I've experienced.

Dr. Deltron

velonomad
10-10-06, 05:07 PM
I'll add to Dr. D's comments with my own experince, I use a small top feed gun I got at lowes for $40.00. Paint is available from many autobody suppliers for as little as $20 a pint for solid base colors, reducers can be found in quart quanties as well as clear coats and thier hardeners. The initial outlay starts at about $125 for the paint, reducer,clearcoat and hardener, but afterwards you can switch colors for the cost of the base color.
When everything is right, spraying with a gun is easy. but I found a few degrees difference in spray or ambient tempature or a 1/2 oz of reducer can be the difference between excellence and Earl Shieb. So as not to let a small mistake
screw up a lot of time spent in prepping the frame I have a piece of pipe or old frame tubing prepped just like the frame that I spray first to make sure everything is right before I spray the frame

Peterpan1
10-10-06, 10:53 PM
Not that this has anything to do with the art of painting... but my local powder guy will do frames for around 50 bucks US, 1 colour, and cheaper if it's raw metal and doesn't need any blasting. And in the "say what" column, he charges 700 for a rigid chopper frame!!

Dr.Deltron
10-11-06, 12:40 AM
1) Paint is available from many autobody suppliers for as little as $20 a pint for solid base colors, reducers can be found in quart quanties as well as clear coats and thier hardeners. The initial outlay starts at about $125 for the paint, reducer,clearcoat and hardener, but afterwards you can switch colors for the cost of the base color.

2)I have a piece of pipe or old frame tubing prepped just like the frame that I spray first to make sure everything is right before I spray the frame

1A) If you add a quart of epoxy primer/quart of catalyst, that's another $57 + tax.
I just bought a gallon of PPG 2042 clear & quart of catalyst $278 + tax.
It's cheaper by the gallon!:rolleyes:
Quart 2042 & 8 oz cat = $85 + tax
Qt Reducer $18 = tax
And having the frame sandblasted = $30

Let's review;
Blast................................$30
Primer...............................$60
Color................................$20 (that's for most colors, some can run $45.)*
Reducer............................$40 $20.00 X 2 (one for base coat, one for primer/clear)
Clear................................$90
TOTAL............................$240

And don't forget sandpaper $.80/sheet, gloves $12/box, charcoal mask $20+, tape $5/roll and the $40 spraygun (providing you have and adequate compressor!)
Extras....................approx $90
New TOTAL.....................$330

*Got a PINT of Honda motorcycle red for $135!!!!!!!!and that had to be shot over PINK primer!

Maybe rattle cans IS the way to go!

2A) I use white PVC pipe for this, it's cheaper.

Thanks and no offense VeloNomad. I just didn't want somebody to get to the paint store UNPREPARED!
Top quality auto paints ARE EXPENSIVE!!!

velonomad
10-11-06, 06:18 AM
No offence taken, Just relating my experince at where I buy my paints (Keystone)
I dug through the receipts for 3 bikes and here is what I spent:

For the first bike,I used a 2006 Jeep, green pearl metallic at $35 for a pint of base, The clearcoat was $60 for a quart. the hardener was $25, the reducer was $20 (this base and clear use the same reducer). sandpaper and masking $10, 3M Finesse was about $12 for 16oz. the gun was $40 I already had a 3M mask,new filters were $10.00. I already owned a compressor with a water and oil seperator.
roll of plastic to make a spraybooth $10. total cost of first paint job $230 , That is right up there with your estimate Dr D.

Second bike: 2006 Toyota red pearl metallic base, pint, $65, reducer $22( different base brand) sandpaper and masking $8. $ 95 total for second bike.

Third bike: 2002 GM cream base,pint $20 Sandpaper and masking $10, new respirator filter $12. $9 primer. $48.00 total for third bike.

Dr.Deltron
10-11-06, 10:52 AM
Now factor in the compressor with seperators at say $300 and you now have an average price of $225 per frame. Also could figure in your time....

So if you only have ONE bike to paint, it's cheaper AND easier to have it done "professionally"

Doing the math is also why I buy clear by the gallon. Even if it does set me back almost $300!

velonomad
10-11-06, 12:54 PM
I certainly agree that from an economics and overall quality standpoint that a having a painter such as yourself paint the frame makes sense. But building a bike frame as a hobbyist is just that, a hobby. The more work I can do myself the bigger the buzz. The money is a secondary consideration.

Dr.Deltron
10-11-06, 03:42 PM
The more work I can do myself the bigger the buzz.
...Priceless!;)