Classic & Vintage - How well do SA hubs work?

I got my junker schwinn traveller working and I can't tell if the aw 3 speed hub is working as it should or is off a little. It shifts into every gear, but depending on the tension of the gear shift cable the quality of the shifts vary greatly. I have it dialed in so that from 1st to 2nd it's hard to tell it's even shifted, from 2nd to 3rd it slips but shifts, then from 3rd to 2nd is a little tricky, it kind of wants to go to first or just pop back up to 3rd (the trigger) but when it shifts it's a noticable clucnk. Then from 2nd to 1st is very clunky, maybe a little slippage.

The hub itself is in great shape. I took to apart enough to be able to clean it completely and grease the axle bearings, the trigger may not be in the best shape, and the cable is pretty worn. So- is that usual or should it be shifting better? And could what it's doing be from a worn cable or trigger?

btw- I didn't think the gear ratio would be as wide as it is. I really like it, 1st is pretty freaking low, and 3rd is pretty freaking high. I want to make myself a club racer kind of bike now.

If everything is working properly, they shift perfectly if you ease up on the pedals. Keep them moving, but not fast enough to keep up with the hub.

The problem with the shift from 2nd to 3rd can be caused by a weak clutch spring, sticky shifter or cables that don't move freely.

I make my own cables, starting with modern "Slick" stainless shift cables. I've been drilling .045 holes lengthwise through 3/32" brazing rod for the ends. But I just read where someone uses 3/32" copper tubing. I'll have to find some and see what the ID is.

If this problem has persisted, the clutch dogs may be rounded off a bit.

I have any internal parts you might need for an SA-AW

I also find the AWs ratio spacing a bit wide for anything but casual riding. OTOH I find the spacing on FW 4 speeds or S5 speeds to be ideal.

More appropriate to a club racer were the medium and close ratio 3 and 4 speeds AM,FM,AC & FC.
Scarce now and not as tough.

Thanks, good info. I'm pretty sure it's nothing internal, it looked really good, with sharp edges when I took it apart.

what kinda grease/ oils did you use for reassembly?

Phils on the axle bearings, 20 weight motor oil for regular lubing, the kind of stuff used for small engines, the stuff recommended by several people. I

20W motor oil might be a bit heavy--try 5w or singer sewing oil.Stay away from 3-in-one or WD40.
Seems the AW was ment as a single speed bike gear.You chose one gear for the type of ride you planed and stuck with it,till you gave out and had to shift!---sam(I like the AM a lot better on my MacLean)

From the Sturmey Archer Technical Information and Parts List:"Lubricate once every three months (or as necessary) with a few drops of Sturmey-Archer oil (SAE 30). Do not use thick oil or grease."

Your problem with the shifting is that the hub isn't adjusted properly - it should not be slipping while in middle or high gear. If it slips in middle gear, you need to tighten it (turn the adjusting barrel on the end of the cable clockwise). If it slips in high gear, you need to loosen it. There is always a dead spot if you hold the shifter between the middle and high gear clicks, but you should not be slipping into it.

The hub will happily shift up if you are pedaling, though it will usually have a slight delay if you don't ease up on the pedals a bit. It will absolutely refuse to downshift if you try to do it under load, so you have no choice but to ease up. You can stop pedaling entirely and downshift, though the innards of the hub sometimes line up in such a way to prevent the hub from shifting. It's become automatic for me to kick the pedals back a bit as I downshift just to ensure that it shifts every time. There's no need to do this; as someone else noted, as long as you slow the pedals down to the point where the hub shell is outrunning the cog, it'll downshift fine. It's just my habit.

You definitely shouldn't expect shifting to be perfect and immediate as with newer derailers and hubs, but it's really pretty good, and it will continue to operate flawlessly for longer than you will! It's extremely unlikely that anything is wrong with the innards, these hubs were built to last, and they sure do! 20 or 30 weight motor oil is perfectly acceptable as a lubricant, though you should avoid additives like detergents and other engine cleaners. Just plain oil is what you want.

Get the hub adjusted right, and it will happily shift for decades of service.

It sounds like it's shifting almost as well as it can because I never let up on pedaling when shifting. I'll have to check it out again with this stuff in mind.

IMO, your indicator chain is not adjusted correctly. The cable / chain should be noticably slack in 3rd gear, and at maximum tension in first. Too slack or too tight will cause it to not shift properly.

To shift down you need to stop pedaling; but you can generally shift up while pedaling.

IMO, your indicator chain is not adjusted correctly. The cable / chain should be noticably slack in 3rd gear, and at maximum tension in first. Too slack or too tight will cause it to not shift properly.

To shift down you need to stop pedaling; but you can generally shift up while pedaling.

And also check that the hub is correctly adjusted. It should have some play in it. If its too tight or too loose, it can cause shifting problems. I believe Sheldon Brown has directions on adjusting.