Bicycle Mechanics - Wheel offset question

I recently purchased a Mavic Open Pro rim with Ultegra cassette hub. Installed on my steel frame, the center of the wheel is offset about 1/8" further to the R/S of center (brake center bolt). I would think that it should be centered in the frame. One thing I'm noticing, is that when the chain is on the large chainwheel and smallest sprocket, it rubs against the outboard front derailer guide. Should I readjust the axle and relocate shims to bring he wheel into center alignment with the frame? This might eliminate the chain rub while centering the wheel. There seems to be mush more space on the L/S of the hub than on the R/S, leading me to think that the hub is too far to the right. I've checked the frame alignment with string (as per Sheldon Brown) and the frame seems to be OK.
Thanks,
Rich

Did ya dish it? Did ya do lateral truing?

The only time I touched a few spokes was to true it up (slight wobble). Beyond that, it's factory stock.
Rich

It may be out of dish. That means not centered with your frame. I'm not sure how to explain how you can do this. I just do it. Play with the backspokes till the rim is centered AND true.

It seems as though you have some wheel truing knowledge so we will work with that. Do not readjust the axle spacers or cones to center the wheel. If the rim is too far to the right in the frame first be sure that the axle is fully seated in the dropout. If it is and the wheel is still not centered then do the following: You say the rim is offset to the right so you need to increase the spoke tension of the left hand side spokes and decrease the tension of the right side spokes. Put the wheel in a truing stand and loosen the right hand side spokes lets say a half turn, starting at the valve stem all the way around the wheel. Then starting at the valve hole again, tighten the left spokes one half turn. Put the wheel in the frame and check your progress. If it still is not centered then make more adjustments as necessary. Dishing a wheel is simply centering the rim over the axle. During the process you may incur some wobbles so correct them as usual after you make a full pass loosening or tightening.

-Ryan

if you want to check if the rim is centered, take note of where it sits in the frame, then pull out the wheel and put it in the frame backwards. If it is in the same place it's not the wheel, if it's offset from the center the other way, then the dish is wrong.

If it isn't right,why screw with it.Not your hassle,send or take it back.

Well, these are all good points. Pokey, you're probably right about returning it. Maybe there is some deviation at the factory (like about 1/8"). Skdsl, I'll try your method for checking the wheel dish. Yes, I'vebuilt wheels before, so changing the offset wouldn't be a problem (and it probably would take less time than to dismount the tire, remove the cassette, drive to the bike store and exchange it for a another wheel that is hopefully in stock and better aligned than this one.)
Thanks
Rich

I'm with Rich -- given the hassle of an exchange, I would simply redish the wheel, using either my truing stand or the bike's rear brake pads.

how do you get the pic by your post were the info is like registerd and location and how many post youi have

pm me if you know how.

Go to your control panel, edit options. It's at the bottom of the page.

Others have given good advice on this. I just wanted to throw in some thoughts. Forgive me if they duplicate others. Wheels should be centered in their own right, without regard to the frame. Then you adjust your brakes to the centered wheel. This way you can take a wheel off of one bike, stick it on another, and you will know it will work without messing with it. This may be ridiculously obvious, but I was not sure this was coming across from the previous posts.

So don't necessarily just center it to where your brake pads are now. Do as someone suggested and flip it back and forth until flipped either way it is the same distance from ONE of the brake pads. Then it will be centered. Brake pads are not the best point of reference but will work if you are careful not to move the one you are using for reference.

A quick tip, take a zip tie, attach it around either your seat stay or chainstay. Cut it to where it barely rubs the rim, use that as your guide. When removing the wheel, just turn the zip tie out of the way. It's a cheap tool tip for "on the bike" wheel truing!

L8R

Thanks for the additional input! I decided to re-dish the wheel after reversing it in the frame and finding that it was offset in the opposite direction (wheel off center, not the frame).
So then, just to keep life interesting, air starts leaking from one of the spoke holes! Lesson: always get new rim tape with a new rim. Anyway, I'm glad it happened right there in my basement and not a few days later a few miles down the road.
Rich