Classic & Vintage - What's good, what's junk?

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Body2big
09-03-06, 07:52 AM
the search engine would not work so here goes. anyone have pics or good descriptions of things to look for on older bikes to tell if they are junky or good to rebuild fix or just ride?
example a taiwan frame chro mo on the badge? any good? Shimano Exage 4400 good or junk? what do you look for in the lugs for quality welds? Cranks etc.. I see old bikes with downtube shifter then I see them with the shifters on the stem? those suicide brake levers are they a sign of a junker? or low end bike? anyone with example please assist. I know a lot of the regular names but there are so many levels of quality and better specs. center pull brakes junk or good? any help would be great
Thanks
Shawn
this bike junk or fixer?
Ps tried to correct spelling in title but will not change hmmmm:mad:
Body2big
09-03-06, 08:32 AM
Thanks rad it is fixed.
any comments on the bike in the pic? the guy wants 125.00 for it?
Shawn
Sammyboy
09-03-06, 09:08 AM
Wait long enough, and you'll find the same quality for a lot less. $50 or less on ebay, $10 in a yard sale. I wouldn't pay $125 for it.
Wait long enough, and you'll find the same quality for a lot less. $50 or less on ebay, $10 in a yard sale. I wouldn't pay $125 for it.
Concur.
A servicable enough bike, but not for $125.
Top
(who has pulled at least 5 bikes as good if not better from the dump this year)
Body2big
09-03-06, 01:26 PM
I am glad I passed on it. I could have had it for 100.00 but I may or may not have gotten ripped on this one. Not sure of the year but its a CCM made from 531 reynolds. Has some nice looking lugs on it. I think the components are so so quality. I am going to take pics in a few but of course I have to resize them all. I paid 130 for this one.
Pics coming in a few
Shawn
Body2big
09-03-06, 01:39 PM
I am glad I passed on it. I could have had it for 100.00 but I may or may not have gotten ripped on this one. Not sure of the year but its a CCM made from 531 reynolds. Has some nice looking lugs on it. I think the components are so so quality. I am going to take pics in a few but of course I have to resize them all. I paid 130 for this one.
Pics coming in a few
Shawn
HERE ARE A FEW PICS
divineAndbright
09-03-06, 02:23 PM
I believe the silver ghost was CCMs high end road bikes, its also Canadian and probably strange to find in America!
Body2big
09-03-06, 02:31 PM
I believe the silver ghost was CCMs high end road bikes, its also Canadian and probably strange to find in America!
So do you think it was too much at 130.00? I want to refinish it over the winter but of course this also means removing all the decals to paint it and make it look nice with no rust spots. I was thinking a nice high gloss black with hand painted red on the lugs. I think it would look super sharp. BUT it will change the bike too??
Too much to think about LOL
Shawn
Sammyboy
09-03-06, 03:50 PM
My 80's 531 Gazelle cost me £20.
So do you think it was too much at 130.00?
The stragiht-gauge mixed-tubeset frame is OK, about on par with a Raleigh Super Course. The crankset is low-end. If everything, including rims and bearings, is in tip-top shape, and if it fits you and you like the ride, then don't agonize over whether you could have saved a few bucks elsewhere.
sykerocker
09-03-06, 06:44 PM
I believe the silver ghost was CCMs high end road bikes, its also Canadian and probably strange to find in America!
Depends on the region. When I lived in Erie, PA there were a few of them around, too many to be considered rare, but still few enough to be unusual and noticable. I think that a local sporting goods shop that was heavy on hockey equipment got a truckload or two in.
Then again, remember that Erie was 90 miles from Buffalo/Ft. Erie, Ontario - I used to do weekend cycling/camping trips up there.
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
Blue Order
09-03-06, 07:39 PM
Wait long enough, and you'll find the same quality for a lot less. $50 or less on ebay, $10 in a yard sale. I wouldn't pay $125 for it.The first problem with that $50 ebay price is that it doesn't include shipping, which I've seen range from $30 to $100 on Ebay. Add shipping on and you're realistically talking about $110 or more total for that "$50 bike." Now that $110 may be market value for the bike, but if there's one locally for $110, you're not saving money by buying one for "$50" on Ebay. The second problem with buying on Ebay is that REALLY stupid bidders (or perhaps shills for the seller) often bid something up beyond what it's worth in the real world.
MichaelW
09-04-06, 10:54 AM
If I want to guage the quality of a no-name or repainted frame I go straight to the rear dropouts. Moulded (investment cast) dropouts have obvious moulding features and are very thick. They are generally only used in quality frames. The cheaper stamped dropouts are made from a sheet of metal and are found on lower-end bikes.
There are exceptions to this guide but it usually holds true.
Cheap lugs are usually straight-cut and have a big step-change in thickness. Quality lugs have a better transition with thinner edges and more curves/cutouts etc.
peripatetic
09-04-06, 11:31 AM
The first problem with that $50 ebay price is that it doesn't include shipping, which I've seen range from $30 to $100 on Ebay. Add shipping on and you're realistically talking about $110 or more total for that "$50 bike." Now that $110 may be market value for the bike, but if there's one locally for $110, you're not saving money by buying one for "$50" on Ebay. The second problem with buying on Ebay is that REALLY stupid bidders (or perhaps shills for the seller) often bid something up beyond what it's worth in the real world.
+1 on all this. I bought my first bike on ebay--a fixed conversion, and it was kind of a waste of money: it was cheaper than anything local, but it also turned out to be a lemon. I ended up selling the frame for cheap and salvaging the parts, but those were only useful as little, salvaged parts.
It really does depend on region. I don't think RI prices are that different from NYC prices: there are a lot of vintage-savvy fixed riders (RISD and Brown) who know a good steel frame when they see one. Here in NYC, that purchase would have been a steal (no pun intended).
Here in NYC, any steel frame with alloy wheels is going to cost you a minimum of $100 on CL, usually more from one of the few bike shops with used goods, and more commonly, upwards of $125-$150. Even old Huffys sell for $60-$75.
Sammyboy, all the pretty vintage steel frames with pretty chrome lugs, etc. that you find all over the British countryside just aren't to be had in the same plenty here, esp. not in the NEast. People didn't really buy nice road bikes in large numbers until the bike boom days (70s and 80s), and they were mainly Japanese marques.
OP, if you're going to repaint, go for it, but personally, I think you should leave the chrome accents: my .02.
BTW, if you're wondering what to look for in terms of quality, I'd recommend sticking to looking at the pics people post in this forum, and looking closely over any "nice" bikes you see. It took me a good year, but I can now spot quality from junk w/in a few seconds. It's just like old cars or anything else.
Body2big
09-04-06, 12:12 PM
If I want to guage the quality of a no-name or repainted frame I go straight to the rear dropouts. Moulded (investment cast) dropouts have obvious moulding features and are very thick. They are generally only used in quality frames. The cheaper stamped dropouts are made from a sheet of metal and are found on lower-end bikes.
There are exceptions to this guide but it usually holds true.
Cheap lugs are usually straight-cut and have a big step-change in thickness. Quality lugs have a better transition with thinner edges and more curves/cutouts etc.
Do you happen to have a picture of the two drop outs?I need a NOS saddle. anyone have a decent saddle even used if its in good shape. Anyone by chance know what came on this bike? I have tried searches and don't get much.
thanks
Shawn
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