Commuting - Malibu Lights & Geek Question(s)

I was at Home Depot yesterday, checking out the garden lighting section. I have one right down the road from me so I visit every few weeks and dream of projects that I'll probably never do. :p
I make sure to go in when I have no money, otherwise I'd be leaving in that state anyways!

I've noticed several people mention the lights with the spike on the bottom, and having to hacksaw it off, and that makes me question if this was the same as the lights being discussed: CL-507 is pictured below, although I looked at the CL-9 with the funky hood as well. I guess it depends on your sense of style.

Both fixtures are 20 watt halogen lights and the spike is attached via a winged-bolt that can be undone by hand. You could attach these (the lights, not the spikes...) to a bracket of some sort, I would think, rather easily and drop them off the handlebars, rack, whatever you like. The units are intended for outdoor use, and have seals around the lenses. Home Depot, here in Ottawa sells them for just under $20.

Online, I saw that Malibu also makes a much cheaper model (LX-9Z) but I didn't see it at the store. I'll go back next week and look for it. Anybody know if it has the same winged-bolt system, or is this what people are hacking away at? The nifty thing about the LX-9Z is that it has a twist-focus beam. The downside is that it's only a 4w fixture.

I've got an idea I'm working on (only in my head, so far) for a small cowling mounted on the bars which could house the switches, lights and any other small heads-up-gadget (speedometer, etc.) in a streamlined shape. It would have something extending over these sensitive bits to protect from the elements (at least while in motion). If everything is connected into this, maybe you could either leave it on the bike without worry of individual pieces being quick-released away on you, or maybe the whole thing could be quick-release attached and you could just take the one piece away with all your gear.

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Onto the Geek questions -

1) Can you power these halogen lights from AA cell batteries? I've a whole whack load of rechargeable AA batteries sitting around and can charge a 4-pack overnight, so that would make my life easy. I was thinking that I could connect 4 x 1.5v AA batteries in series and get 6v.

2) Given that the lights are 20w, could I get by with just one lamp for night usage? Assuming I can do the battery system above, running two lights might kill it faster than I'd like and then I'll have to start packing extra batteries. At that point, it would be getting rather silly and I'd hate to do that for too long.

3) Would it be possible to create a night-usable light system (perhaps with LED's?) that operates on 3.7v cell-phone batteries? They're small and lightweight. Not cheap, although there are places that sell them wholesale/surplus and you might find a good deal buying a few at a time. I suppose you could wire them in series like I was thinking for the AA cells but I'm aiming to keep costs down. A single BL-5C or BL-6C or similar battery from a Nokia phone is small, fairly light, and charges in a very short period of time.

For a MR-16 bulb like that, I think you're better off with an optronics housing. You can get them cheaply on ebay. I'm also partial to the Malibu LV505 outdoor bulb that Home Depot sells, which is a 12v, 25 watt halogen. It fits into housings that are commonly sold as utility lights for trucks and tractors. Something like this: http://www.autobarn.net/rounrub12vtr.html.

I run my lights off of AA batteries -- a pack of 12 of them. I use 2700 mah NiMH ones that I can get on ebay for about $1.50 each. The thing about batteries is that the voltage varies as they discharge. The NiMH start at about 1.2V and drop to 1.0V when discharged. By using 12 batteries my light is slightly overvolted when they are fully charged and still at full voltage when discharged.


Is that geeky enough?

They cut the spike off so the wingnut part can act as a pivot for the light - unless there are two parts to the spike? Cut the spike off and mount the remains to the handlebar, and then add the wingnut and main light part and adjust it for riding conditions (lower for mup riding, higher for road etc)

They cut the spike off so the wingnut part can act as a pivot for the light - unless there are two parts to the spike? Cut the spike off and mount the remains to the handlebar, and then add the wingnut and main light part and adjust it for riding conditions (lower for mup riding, higher for road etc)

Personally, I'd just set up a bracket that uses the bolt hole on the light and toss the spike altogether rather than taking a hack-saw to it.


I run my lights off of AA batteries -- a pack of 12 of them. I use 2700 mah NiMH ones that I can get on ebay for about $1.50 each. The thing about batteries is that the voltage varies as they discharge. The NiMH start at about 1.2V and drop to 1.0V when discharged. By using 12 batteries my light is slightly overvolted when they are fully charged and still at full voltage when discharged.

Doesn't a 12-pack of AA batteries weigh a fair bit? How do you charge all twelve between uses?

Don't they make some of these with solar panels on them?

Doesn't a 12-pack of AA batteries weigh a fair bit? How do you charge all twelve between uses?

It's about 11 ounces. With batteries, you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to weight -- more weight = more battery (within the same battery type).

I charge it using this:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2051

Onto the Geek questions -

1) Can you power these halogen lights from AA cell batteries? I've a whole whack load of rechargeable AA batteries sitting around and can charge a 4-pack overnight, so that would make my life easy. I was thinking that I could connect 4 x 1.5v AA batteries in series and get 6v.
I really think it would take so many AA batteries that you'd be much better off simply buying a 5AH sealed lead-acid battery w/charger. It's heavy, but it would not be cost-effective to buy the NiMH or NiCad "D" cell rechargeables needed for the job (unless you can find a great internet sale, which is a possibility.)



2) Given that the lights are 20w, could I get by with just one lamp for night usage? Assuming I can do the battery system above, running two lights might kill it faster than I'd like and then I'll have to start packing extra batteries. At that point, it would be getting rather silly and I'd hate to do that for too long.
You're right. My experience with running two lights at once is that they put such a drain on the battery that run-time is much less than half. One 20W should be about enough, but if you aren't happy with just 20W, you can go online and buy an "energy saver" bulb which draws 20W but puts out 35W (or equivalent) light. I recommend this one, a narrow-spot (8 degree) --

http://bulbs.com/products/product_detail.asp?page=products&inventory=11649

Just be sure your Malibu housing accepts a 2-inch lensed MR-16 bulb. If not, you might be able to find a way to make it fit (the glass cover on the Malibu might make fitting a lensed bulb difficult, since I think the Malibu comes with a pin-bulb, which has no lens cover or built-in reflective backing.) Instead of the Malibu, you might want to use an Optronics driving light housing, which is designed to accept the 2-inch MR-16 bulb -- like these:

http://www.optronicsinc.com/competition.htm

The Q8-HCC should work.

You're not looking in the correct isle! Go to the isle where they sell track lights. I am posting a picture below of a modified track light fixture almost ready for mounting on a bicycle. First thing you do is find an appropriate fixture utilizing either an MR-16 or MR-11 halogen bulb. The base of the fixture that attaches to the track is removed. This allows the bail to be attached to a clamp or anything else suitable for attaching the light to the bicycle. The wire and socket for the bulb is heat resistant and the wire should not be shortened! Use wire nuts to attach this wire to lamp cord wire for connection to the battery. When you remove the base you should be able to reuse the wire nuts attaching this heat resistant wire to the base connections. You will need a switch to turn it off and on. Look in the electrical isle and find an in-line on/off switch made for use with lamp cord wire. As for batteries, AA is not going to supply enough current for use with a 20-watt MR-16 bulb or a 10-watt MR-11 bulb. You will need an SLA battery. A 20-watt MR-16 bulb is going to draw about 1.8 amps. I use a 4.2 Amp hour SLA battery and limit operation to 2 hours continuous use. 10-watt MR-11 bulbs draw about half as much. LED MR-16 and MR-11 bulbs are available here.
http://autolumination.com/mr16.htm
You may be able to get away with AA batteries when using LED bulbs. They do not provide as much light a halogen bulb but draw considerably less current extending battery life and run time.

You can get a 12-pack of NiMH AA 2700 mAH batteries from BatterySpace for $16 and shipping, so if the eBay guy is charging shipping on top of $1.50 a cell, walk away. Lately I've seen a HECK of a lot of stuff on ebay going for OVER list price. Don't assume you're getting a deal.

I bought that Malibu light and never wound up using it. It's kind of clunky and big and it looks like the front would rattle off when riding. I'd get an Optronics if I was going to do DIY halogen, and wasn't going to go for the traditional plumbing fittings I did last time.

Go to the isle where they sell track lights.

Not waterproof. Is that a big deal? I've never tried running a non-waterproof halogen in a pouring rainstorm or a heavy blizzard, but I'd bet against both longevity and effectiveness. Maybe I'm wrong.

Hi,
I have Malibu Lights in my backyard (CL-1 and CL-507). I've found the replacement bulbs pretty expensive. Do I have to use the replacement bulbs: ML50WH2c or ML20WH2C by Intermatic or can I use alternative bulbs? I've found the G4 Model 20W Halogen Bi-pin replacement bulbs. Would those work as a replacement for my 20W lights?
Thanks

For a MR-16 bulb like that, I think you're better off with an optronics housing. You can get them cheaply on ebay. I'm also partial to the Malibu LV505 outdoor bulb that Home Depot sells, which is a 12v, 25 watt halogen. It fits into housings that are commonly sold as utility lights for trucks and tractors. Something like this: http://www.autobarn.net/rounrub12vtr.html.

I run my lights off of AA batteries -- a pack of 12 of them. I use 2700 mah NiMH ones that I can get on ebay for about $1.50 each. The thing about batteries is that the voltage varies as they discharge. The NiMH start at about 1.2V and drop to 1.0V when discharged. By using 12 batteries my light is slightly overvolted when they are fully charged and still at full voltage when discharged.


Is that geeky enough?

The Optronics QH-7cc (http://www.carparts.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/c-10618/s-10401/p-2003730) have a better light holder than the yard lights. I've looked at the Malibu and the bulb can wobble around in the housing. The Optronics are easier to mount also. Here it is as a helmet light

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/IMGP1301.jpg

You could also use a pin back track light like this one

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/IMGP1292.jpg

It's currently doing duty as my helmet light. It takes a little more to mount to the helmet but it has a lower form which is better when bombing through the trees.

Here's (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=368772) the whole system.

Using AA batteries makes for a pretty low capacity battery. 2.7 Ahr would only give around 2 hours of light at best (14.4 V, 20W lamp)