Touring - Trying to mount Tubus Cargo on 17" Trek 520 - help?
Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.
09-08-06, 11:48 PM
Hey, has anyone used this combo: Trek 520, size small (17") with v-brakes, with Tubus Cargo rack. I'm getting a collision between the rack strut and the top of the right side of the brake. Solutions anyone?
(Yes, I AM working on my bike at 10:47pm Friday night. :eek: )
Are the struts straight or bent? If they are straight, you can bend them like so:
09-09-06, 10:32 PM
I'm at the other end of the spectrum (25" frame) but basically have the same problem. In my case, it's also compounded by the fact I cannot have the brake arms too spread out because they will interfere with panniers.
I see a few possible solutions, apart from the one above.
1. If your heels do not conflict with the brake, unhook the cable off the right arm, remove the brake pad and change the position of the spacers.
This photo (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#threaded) (any of those near the top) should give you a clue.
On each side of the brake arm, there are two sets of washers: a thin convex one near the arm and a thicker concave one (thick on the sides, thinner in the centre). However the concave washers don't have the same thickness on the pad side and on the bolt side.
Simply swap the washers to put the thicker concave washer on the brake pad side, and the pads will touch the rim while the brake arms will stay a bit more open.
Ideally you should do the same transformation on both sides as it will look better. You may have to readjust the Spring adjuster bolts afterwards (this page (http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html)).
2. You could attach the rack struts on the inside of the braze-ons. Bear in mind that the bolts will be a pain in the rear end to put in place and you'll need to tour with separate Allen keys rather than a combo wrench or multi-tool.
3. Back in the old days, we used P-clamps. Blackburn and MEC include some in their rack installation kits and if Tubus doesn't supply them, your bike shop should have them aplenty. Install the P-clamps on the seatstays a bit higher than the braze-ons and you will be fine.
It won't look that bad, especially on a dark bike (see this (http://www.mgagnon.net/velo/images/VeloSport-2002-gros.jpg). Still not as nice looking as solution 1.
09-09-06, 11:26 PM
Thanks for the replies. At this point, I'm have it rigged as MG's #2 above, but have only put the right strut on the inside, as the left side is OK. It's asymmetrical, but I'm thinking I want as much spread between the struts as possible to improve lateral stability. I'll take it for a loaded test ride tomorrow (I hope).
I'm kinda scared to start bending, otherwise I would do that.
I like to stand up to climb, so preventing rack sway is crucial.
Crossing my fingers...
09-10-06, 11:07 AM
Ah, the struts don't aren't a super big deal, Anna. First off, Relax-- it's going to work out.
You can bend the struts.
Mount them on the inside (easiest solution)
Use "P" clamps.
Get longer struts and tie them in seat post collar (if the 520 has one?) Or rig them into the brake bridge.
Just make sure the rack sits flat and the main supports are straight up and down. These carry the load. The struts just stablize the load.
If you're planning on fenders, try to find the good metal ones and see with you can use them to stablize the rack. Tradtional French camping bikes didn't have stablizing struts-- they used the fenders tgo help support the racks!
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.12 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.