Commuting - Cool Commuter Bikes Available in the U.S!

Check out Breezers
http://www.breezerbikes.com/bikes.cfm

REI - Navara Fusion
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=48075197&parent_category_rn=4500775

koga-miyata: - some full suspension commuters, made in Holland
http://www.kogausa.com/Town&Country.htm

Biria - The Saftey Bike comes with a Remote control anti-theft kickstand - YES, this is for real
http://www.biria.com/bicycles/

Kettler
http://www.kettlerusa.com/page12.html

Burley
http://www.burley.com/products/commuter-bikes/default09a5.html?p=Runabout-27&i=0

More kühl kommuters........

http://thecitybicycle.blogspot.com/2005/08/list-promoting-bicycle-as-utilitarian.html

Can I play?
http://www.earthspirits.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=cb_ketnen&Category_Code=&Store_Code=abs
http://www.earthspirits.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000002/cb_ketnen.jpg

You missed the Biache bike and the REI Transfer.

^^^ Why oh why do they insist on putting
suspension forks on commuter bikes ? :cry: :mad:

^^^ Why oh why do they insist on putting
suspension forks on commuter bikes ? :cry: :mad:

because some of the roads (depending on where you are) need them, and it gets more people on bikes than without. :)
Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

I wouldnt know....here in VT it has to have been paved at least once
to qualify for a 'repaving' :roflmao:

Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

On my first day commuting they cut the road between when I road in and road home. There wasn't really an easy way around it and it was only about an 1/8 mile so I decided to ride it. You're right, it's not fun.

It's been about 6 months and I am still enthralled with my Breezer. I have one of the newer Uptown 8's with no suspension fork, which makes me happy. I just did not want one more thing to take care of. The suspension seatpost and the saddle will be replaced with a normal seatpost and a B-67 just as soon as my budget allows for it, though.

Donnamb sez : "It's been about 6 months and I am still enthralled with my Breezer."


I am really enthralled by the Breezer and Joe B's attitude and advocacy stuff
with cycling. Definately a hands-on ambassador. I really love these "eccentric"(??)
commuter bikes !!! Does your Breezer feel MTB ponderous or can it make time like a
'normal' bike on your commute ? How is it on hills ?? Does the Aluminum creak and
groan when under pressure ?? Bottom bracket clickage ?????
Tired of stoopit questions :eek: ????
Enquiring minds want to know !!! YEs, I have searched but still want more :roflmao:

Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

Ugh, I ran smack dab into a road that had just been torn up on Thursday. Was cruising into it right around 25mph, in the zone, came around the bend and the next thing I know my skinny lil tires are rim deep in dirt, gravel, and .. larger gravel. Didn't even bother trying to brake, the junk cut me speed to near nil before I could decide whether it would be a good idea to brake and hope the tires didn't lock. Most unpleasant mile I've ever ridden.

So far, the only serious, practical machine I've seen in this list is the Koga-Miayta SilverAce.

The Novara Fusion is indeed interesting, but a bit over the top. Like many other commuting machines, the stock stem doesn't have sufficient rise to it.

Burley's offerings are simply MTBs with racks and riser handlebars thrown onto them.

Pity that Kettler's site doesn't list their lugged-frame Raleigh DL-1 copy as being available here in the States.

-Kurt

I am really enthralled by the Breezer and Joe B's attitude and advocacy stuff
with cycling. Definately a hands-on ambassador. I really love these "eccentric"(??)
commuter bikes !!! Does your Breezer feel MTB ponderous or can it make time like a
'normal' bike on your commute ? How is it on hills ?? Does the Aluminum creak and
groan when under pressure ?? Bottom bracket clickage ?????
Tired of stoopit questions :eek: ????
Enquiring minds want to know !!! YEs, I have searched but still want more :roflmao:

Yes, well, what other kind of commuter bike would this eccentric person get? :) It's hard to say about whether I go fast or not. It takes me 15-20 minutes to ride 3.5 miles of pretty good urban streets with lots of stop signs, lights, cars, and other bikes (being that I'm in Portland). I don't feel like I'm putting out maximum exertion. Roadies always pass me (with a sneer). People that look like they have been bike commuting for a long time but aren't roadies always pass me. I pass most people on hybrids and all people on mountain bikes and small bikes. Being female, I do carry everything but the kitchen sink to work with me. I go faster when I'm not so loaded down.

I'm glad I bought a bike with the premium Nexus because hills are my great challenge. The bulk of my riding experience up until April was in very flat SE Michigan. I need the gear ratios it has. Of course a Rohlhoff would be even better, but I don't have that kind of money. The aluminum doesn't creak or groan. As mentioned, I carry a lot on that bike, and I am not a small girl. In fact, I was 20 lbs heavier in April when I got it. That said, if Breezer made a steel bike, I would have bought it. I made some tradeoffs when I picked a Breezer, but it was worth it for my particular set of circumstances.

The bottom bracket did click. I got it repacked last month. It's fine now, but we'll see. I've encountered 4 other Breezers in Portland after I heard about others having the clicking issue. They all had it too. 2 of them got it repacked and the other 2 didn't know enough about bikes to know it could or should be fixed. I hope they did. Do you know anything about it other than it seems a common occurence with Breezers?

Other things I don't like: the suspension seat post isn't my thing and the saddle is not meant for sit bone spans of 190mm. I changed the pedals as they were way too slippery in the rain. The U frame is challenging to lock to the typical Portland staple rack, but I think that's more a flaw of the rack. I got my first flat this evening and I've never removed a rear wheel like that before. The LBS I got it from includes a year's free service with the bike and he's happy to have Breezer owners come in for their first flat to learn how to do it. It's just a bad time at work to take the afternoon off, but I have to be shown stuff like this the first time.

Questions don't bother me and not many are stupid. I nearly drove my parents crazy as a kid with them, being eccentric even then.

The Novara Fusion is indeed interesting, but a bit over the top. Like many other commuting machines, the stock stem doesn't have sufficient rise to it.

I don't get the "commuter bike must provide a super-upright riding position, or else" attitude (not just refering to cudak, but in general). I ride a cyclocross bike (IRO Rob Roy), and I love it - and couldn't stand something as upright as some of those bikes pictured. If you ignore the fact that the IRO is single speed (which has benefits for commuting, but lets not go there - internal hub is probably better for most folks), it can be set up with real fenders and a rack, and wide 700C cross tires for bad weather, dirt roads, etc.

Maybe one day the "comfort bike/riser stem as a commuter" meme will strike me, but I just don't get it.

A good collection of links.

Many of those bikes would serve ordinary commuters well. It's refreshing to see so many bikes thoughtfully designed with practical purposes in mind, rather than trying to mimic specialized racing machinery.

That said, as much as I want to like these bikes a lot, I don't. Even some of the nice-looking Koga-Miyatas. Too many of those commuting or utility machines are designed with the idea of selling bikes to people in the U.S. who are casual about bicycling per se. So, there are too many design compromises for those bikes to be ideal commuters or utility bikes, in my mind.

In particular, the linked bikes seem largely aimed at the sort of rider who is intimidated by, or just does not want, drop bars and a more stretched out top tube. I understand this approach. The success of mountain bikes and their imitators has apparently taught bike manufacturers that they cut out 3/4 of their potential market, or so, if they put drop bars on a longer bike. But whatever is true for selling bikes to people who are new to cycling, it's a mistake to have a commuter or utility bike that doesn't have drop bars and a more forward geometry, in my view. It is not just racers who can benefit from cutting through the wind.

Also, some of the manufacturers are apparently trying to push the market toward expecting more complicated, unnecessary, and expensive technology in everyday roadbikes. The disk brakes on the Novarro are a case in point, but the suspended frame of the Koga-Miyata Gran Tour is another example. These things are just not needed on paved roads.

The next item is more a matter of preference, but I don't care for generator lights. Even the best dyno hubs rob their riders of ~7 watts when the light is on. That's over three percent of a 200W effort, and that's no small price to power a dim headlamp. Battery lights can light up a lot more of the road for the money, and they don't rob a rider of anything comparable to a generator's take. I know that a generator eliminates recharging, but to my mind it's just not that hard to deal with batteries, especially now that smart rechargers are available for reasonable prices.

As much as I like the included features on many of the linked bikes -- fenders, coat guards, lights, chainguards, and kickstands -- I prefer a bike like, say, the venerable Trek 520 as a base for a commuter rig to any of them.

www.trekbikes.com

(Follow the menus.)

The 520 (and other comparable tourers) has the right geometry for road riding, which is to say it is designed for road riding and does not imitate mountain bikes. It's got long chainstays, though, so you can mount sizable bags in the rear. Unlike all of the linked bikes, too, the front forks will support another rack.

The 520's not cheap. Trek wants over twelve hundred bucks for it now. But if you added fenders, a kickstand, a front rack, lights, and some kind of ring guard, the total price would still be comparable to, or less than, the nicer Koga-Miyatas. But the 520 would be a better machine for many people.

As far as that goes, by the way, I think that what many American commuters need is a bit different than the northern Europeans. Things in North America tend to be a bit more spead out, with suburbs, large malls, big grocery chains, and so on. So, many practical rides will be significantly longer over here.

donnamb sez : "Yes, well, what other kind of commuter bike would this eccentric person get"

Hey thanks for that great reply, donnamb !! :) There is a place that
sells them close by to me (an hour away) and I am going to go look just out of curiousity.......These purpose built euro-kommuters are so cool
in that everything you need you have from the start. After a winter
of riding a cassette bike and switching mid winter to a fix because of it being impossible to keep up with the cleaning, a hub gearbox sounds great ! Ive only heard about the 'clicking' sound from other Breezer
posts in a search......I cant imagine a bike of this quality would have
a serious issue. Ive had other new bikes that required greasing to get
a click away so I think its an assembly issue moreso than anything else. Remember, humans do that part :D

Oh yeah...99% of the time you DO NOT need to remove the wheel to
fix a flat. Just pop the bead on one side and wiggle the tube out.
If its a puncture you can patch and restuff with the wheel on
the bike. Saves a little time !

eaglevii sez : "Maybe one day the "comfort bike/riser stem as a commuter" meme will strike me, but I just don't get it."

Not yet.....you will . Give it about 20 years :roflmao: If you are riding a fixed IRO right now Miss Cleo see a wack bike fo you in da future, Mahn :roflmao: (this isnt meant to be bad !)

How do you find the flat when you don't take the tire off?

Pity that Kettler's site doesn't list their lugged-frame Raleigh DL-1 copy as being available here in the States.

Kurt,
Where do they list this at all? I poked around both the German and U.S. sites and didn’t find anything fitting this description. Sounds interesting.

Regards,
Alan

Merriweather,

I disagree that drop bars are that important. If you are using the bike for basic transportation, then you would rarely want to bend over. It puts you in a poor position for city riding. Other handlebar positions are better options--Breezer sells one other position that I looks great on their Range bikes.

Drop bars also appear to be rare in other countries where they rely on utility style bikes. I think they are better suited in a faster configuration for weekend rides--one without all the weight of the commuter's accessories that these bikes have.

because some of the roads (depending on where you are) need them, and it gets more people on bikes than without. :)
Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

One of the years that I rode the MS150 (Cleveland-ish to Sandusky,) they had just diamond chipped 3/4 of the route for repaving the following week. I rode that on a carbon/aluminum Trek 2100 with an Aerospoke rear wheel. I thought my teeth were going to fall out of my head after that ride.

Merriweather,
I disagree that drop bars are that important. If you are using the bike for basic transportation, then you would rarely want to bend over. It puts you in a poor position for city riding. Other handlebar positions are better options--Breezer sells one other position that I looks great on their Range bikes.

Drop bars also appear to be rare in other countries where they rely on utility style bikes. I think they are better suited in a faster configuration for weekend rides--one without all the weight of the commuter's accessories that these bikes have.
I will have to disagree with you thdave. I think it makes alot of sense to have a drop bar for many types of urban riding. I perfer them a little wider and higher than most racers but having upright positions on the bar tops and hoods in addition to a wind cheating lower position is an excellent idea. I ride from Shaker Heights to Cuyahoga Heights (2 inner ring suburbs) mostly on Cleveland streets. A lower riding position allows me to flow much better with traffic. If I need to be higher for visibility I can switch to a higher hand position. In addition I find the hand positions of a riser bar to be uncomfortable. Most road bikes have a handlebar to low for my tastes but bikes like the Trek Pilot work pretty well and most cyclocross bikes can be set up with a better bar position.
Craig

One of the years that I rode the MS150 (Cleveland-ish to Sandusky,) they had just diamond chipped 3/4 of the route for repaving the following week. I rode that on a carbon/aluminum Trek 2100 with an Aerospoke rear wheel. I thought my teeth were going to fall out of my head after that ride.
Maybe a suspension would help for this type of conditions but I think a fatter tire would also help in this and other conditions without as much of a weight penalty and no complication. I've noticed that the 35mm tires on my commuter are much smoother than the 28mm tires I squeeze onto my "track" bike.
Craig

City maybe - you want to be able to see traffic etc.

But in rural areas, commuting from one small town to the next, with flat fields all around you, going into the wind, drops are nice.

... it's a mistake to have a commuter or utility bike that doesn't have drop bars and a more forward geometry, in my view.

In Chengdu, China; A'dam; and Modena, Italy, they haven't gotten the memo.

http://www.escapeartist.com/efam/52/2bikes.GIF

http://stickfly.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2006/03/AmsterdamBikeRiders.jpg

http://www.trentobike.org/Countries/Italy/Pics/Modena_Mode_Two_Men.jpg

Lem, in 20 years we'll see. :) And just for the record, my IRO is a single speed, I don't feel like rocking a fixie 90+ miles a week (maybe if I was younger I would, so I guess I'm on that fixie to comfort bike continum after all :) )

Lot, I have not been to China, but I have been to Europe, and I've been in areas like those pictures. In my experience, the people on those bikes tend to ride very slowly (and at least in Europe) in areas with more foot traffic than car traffic. The fact that they are wearing 100% street clothes including heavy coats suggests that they are not going far or concerned with getting somewhere in a timely manner (which would generate a lot of body heat and sweat in those clothes, even in cold weather). So, if you're riding a mile or two (typical in European situations), I can see how those bikes would work well. In spread out US cities (especially in the west) and rural areas, I just don't see that sort of bike being nearly as practical. I'd guess from my experience that the typical rider on those coblestones in Europe is doing 10 MPH, which would make my commute take almost an hour each way. That'd be a bitter pill to swallow.

I would like to submit the Raleigh One Way, as suggested to me by the wonderful Josh at that Decatur bike shop.

Also, I love -love-love the ergo drop bars with a positive rise stem on my Miyata Cyclocross. Cheating the wind is an important part of country/city commuting in hilly terrain. I just bought an old upright 3-speed townbike as the grocery/book getter...but I think in the city with all the cars and buildings, it's easy to draft....so not as much need for drops. In the vast rural areas, you want to get low on the downhill to save energy before the next uphill attack. The rise stem helps balance things out in heavy traffic. Best of both worlds.

Next up: Moustache Bars. I wonder if they will be just as practical for my commute as the drops?

http://www.trentobike.org/Countries/Italy/Pics/Modena_Mode_Two_Men.jpg

I want to be like that dude on the right when I grow up...

In spread out US cities (especially in the west) and rural areas, I just don't see that sort of bike being nearly as practical. I'd guess from my experience that the typical rider on those coblestones in Europe is doing 10 MPH, which would make my commute take almost an hour each way. That'd be a bitter pill to swallow.

Ever been to Amsterdam? It's bigger, areawise, than 95 percent of American cities. Suburbs stretch on forever. On the border, I've seen construction workers commute from Brugge to Retranchement, in the Netherlands, easily 15 miles each way, on these heavy, steel bikes. They leave for work early. They talk on their commutes. They ring their bells playfully.

Almost an hour each way? Many of us wish our commutes were longer. :)

because some of the roads (depending on where you are) need them, and it gets more people on bikes than without. :)
Ever ridden a rigid fork down a road that has just been prepped for repaving or has massive damage from the chains the city busses use all winter long? Lemme tell ya...ain't fun.

I mountain bike on a rigid fork, it's not that bad. I took on a pothole on my novara randonee going 30 mph down hill yesterday on 25 mm dillos, and my bike won. I just cant stand suspension of any kind on bikes. Granted, 90 per cent of my mountain biking is single track, flat, climbing, and easy downhills, but still. I wont get one.

I want to be like that dude on the right when I grow up...


their right or stage right?

Let's not forget the 2007 Cannondale Street Premium, available in the market this mid October...

http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/07/CUSA/spec/7SS8_slv.jpg

I can't take the low bars. They have to be seat level at least. I hurt my right shoulder pretty bad (all but broke it) when I was in middle school, and that shoulder hurt for weeks after I rode 6 miles with my bars 4-6" below the saddle. I tried about 2" below the saddle yesterday, and while I was a bit faster, it HURT. I'm not old, I am only 30. But that injury keeps me from going for drop bars. Would it be nice to be able to get out of the wind? Yes. But, I have realized that I'm not a guy who's built for speed. I am just concerned about getting wherever I'm going at all ;)

You missed the Biache bike and the REI Transfer.
+1 for the REI Novara Transfer! The Transfer is really a great design, surprisingly complete and lightweight for a pretty great price! http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=47992734&storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1

http://a1072.g.akamai.net/f/1072/2062/1d/gallery.rei.com/media/613715.jpg

I want to be like that dude on the right when I grow up...


I don't want to grow up :)

Lot, I have not been to China, but I have been to Europe, and I've been in areas like those pictures. In my experience, the people on those bikes tend to ride very slowly (and at least in Europe) in areas with more foot traffic than car traffic. The fact that they are wearing 100% street clothes including heavy coats suggests that they are not going far or concerned with getting somewhere in a timely manner (which would generate a lot of body heat and sweat in those clothes, even in cold weather). So, if you're riding a mile or two (typical in European situations), I can see how those bikes would work well. In spread out US cities (especially in the west) and rural areas, I just don't see that sort of bike being nearly as practical. I'd guess from my experience that the typical rider on those coblestones in Europe is doing 10 MPH, which would make my commute take almost an hour each way. That'd be a bitter pill to swallow.

My own personal stable consists of 7 various Raleigh Sports (and one DL-1 rod-braker) roadster machines, and I find it quite easy to keep a 15-20 mph pace on them - even my three 35+ pound 1951 Sports "C" Tourists (which have considerably thicker tubing then the '60s and '70s machines of the Tube Industries eras) can fly down the road with considerable ease.

-Kurt

I want to be like that dude on the right when I grow up...

I am the dude on the left. Not nearly as old, thank you very much, and I usually don't wear the suit coat in the summer, but thats me!

Kurt,
Where do they list this at all? I poked around both the German and U.S. sites and didn’t find anything fitting this description. Sounds interesting.

Regards,
Alan

It used to be listed on the Alibaba.com Global Trade site - can't seem to locate it now. I'll post a link when I dig it up once again.

As for other manufactuers of current 28" DL-1 roadster copies:

http://incalcu.en.alibaba.com/product/50122540/50559108/Bicycle/28__Bicycle.html

http://yuanyangpremier.en.alibaba.com/product/50056614/50227339/bicycle/Old_Style_Bicycle.html
(Dual top-tube model)

http://herrman.en.alibaba.com/product/50047750/50217806/Bicycles_Parts_and_Accessories/Bicycle.html

http://zjxingda.en.alibaba.com/product/50103147/50461844/Heavy_Duty_Bicycles/Heavy_Duty_Bicycle.html
(This could explain the abundance of chrome Raleigh chaincase pie plates on eBay from that fellow in Cyprus)

http://five-rams.en.alibaba.com/product/50118011/50535768/City_Bicycles/City_Bicycle.html
(Reasonable ladies model - not exactly a traditional loop frame)

-Kurt

It used to be listed on the Alibaba.com Global Trade site - can't seem to locate it now. I'll post a link when I dig it up once again.

Thanks for posting the links. Interesting to see who's still using these designs.

Regards,
Alan

Gosh those are supposed to be commuter bikes?

This is a commuter bike:
http://photos1.blogger.com/hello/282/5223/400/DSCN1136-a.jpg

+1 for the REI Novara Transfer! The Transfer is really a great design, surprisingly complete and lightweight for a pretty great price! http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=47992734&storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1

http://a1072.g.akamai.net/f/1072/2062/1d/gallery.rei.com/media/613715.jpg
One thing I really like about the Fusion and Transfer are that the internal gear hub mounts to a somewhat horozontal dropout (lookout, Surly Crosscheck). This would make flat repair soooooo much easier than the rear dropout (BMX style) on my Trek L200.

I saw the 2006 model Fusion and Transfer marked down 20% on clearance at my REI, making way for the cool, new 2007 Fusion with front roller brake. Pretty nice package for the $$$ IMO.

One thing I really like about the Fusion and Transfer are that the internal gear hub mounts to a somewhat horozontal dropout (lookout, Surly Crosscheck). This would make flat repair soooooo much easier than the rear dropout (BMX style) on my Trek L200.
Very good point! It seems that in the last few years, manufacturers have rediscovered the advantages of the horizontal dropout... but only it's rear-facing form. Forward-facing horizontal dropouts are few and far between these days.

It's good that Surly and Novara are now making frames with forward-facing horizontal dropouts. These have several advantages: can be used either with derailer gearing or single speed, with no chain tensioner; don't need to break the chain to fix a rear flat on a single-speed; and it's easier to get the brake pads in the right place.

how about the '07 Diamondback Transporter@ $450?

There's a little something I don't understand on these lower-rise front handlebar commuter machines: Why make a short frame with a long stem?

Unless one is commuting in a very agressive, urban manner (in which case, a shorter wheelbase is in order), it would make a tad more sense for the main triangle to be a few inches longer and the stem shorter for a less twitchy ride. Makes starts/stops easier.

P.S.: Don't critizise the slack geometry and upright design of the classic roadster design as their fault. I dare say that a DL-1 made out of Reynolds 531 tubing (we can only wish) and outfitted with an aluminum 700C wheelset would fly.

-Kurt

It's good that Surly and Novara are now making frames with forward-facing horizontal dropouts. These have several advantages: can be used either with derailer gearing or single speed, with no chain tensioner; don't need to break the chain to fix a rear flat on a single-speed; and it's easier to get the brake pads in the right place.

You don't have to break the chain to remove a wheel with track ends provided you have left yourself enough room to slide the wheel forward, but with fenders and track ends it's going to be a pain pretty much no matter what because you have to get the wheel out the back but the fender is blocking it.

Vertical dropouts require the frame to be perfectly aligned. With horizontal dropouts you can fudge a little if needed, which is nice if the frame or the wheel is a little off.

I was thumbing through the latest Bicycling magazine looking for the 3 paragraphs that are typically of interest to me, and I just about swallowed my tea the wrong way when I saw an ad for Electra's new bike. Then our local bike news blog has an article about them (http://bikeportland.org/2006/09/22/first-look-at-electras-new-amsterdam-bike/). Wow. It may not be ideal for all, but it's a start. I hope those of you living in flatter places have a chance to try it out for usefulness. BTW, there is a step-through model that's just lovely, but I could not find a pic of it online.

http://bikeportland.org/wp-content/_ElectraAmsterdamClassicGr.JPG

On another note, there were actually 5 whole articles in Bicycling that I found interesting. That's a new record!

Wow donnamb !!
Thanks for that link !!!

I :love: this bike !!!!!

How do you find the flat when you don't take the tire off?

Well, if the thorn or glass is still hanging out of the tire it's easy. Otherwise you just slide the tube out to one side and rotate the wheel and test it as you would normally. Or you can even remove the tube from the tire entirely and rotate it.

But with quick release hubs, popping a wheel isn't that much problem anyway.

But with quick release hubs, popping a wheel isn't that much problem anyway.
It isn't that hard with conventional nuts either.

Well, if the thorn or glass is still hanging out of the tire it's easy. Otherwise you just slide the tube out to one side and rotate the wheel and test it as you would normally. Or you can even remove the tube from the tire entirely and rotate it.

But with quick release hubs, popping a wheel isn't that much problem anyway.

When you are oiling your chain or maintaining, mark the stem on the tire
with a permanent marking pen or something like that. If you do get
a flat, that helps in locating the spot in the tire to check when the
limp tube is flopping around outside the rim.

It isn't that hard with conventional nuts either.
I quite like conventional nuts, now that I'm used to them. I did discard the box wrench for a Surly Jethro Tule: smaller and feels nice in the hand.

http://www.surlybikes.com/stuff/images/jethro.jpg

That Electra sure is pretty. I had my heart set on a Deluxe Relic after taking one for a spin while on vacation... But that might just be as much fun and more practical. I wonder how much.